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I see from searching that the main hose replacement has been discussed quite a bit, but my 2008 machine main hose is in good shape. However, the 100 mm hose from the shaper cavity just under the saw top surface, which has a hose (100 mm?) leading down to a plastic chute on the side of the saw has disintegrated down to the wire loops. I took off the lower metal access panel, and can get to the exit connector, but the top one is another story. First, I have my power feeder bracket installed with the feeder on it. And I have the auxilary side table mounted to the back of the saw cabinet. Maybe the only way to service this is to take off the power feeder, the power feeder bracket and the lift cylinder, then remove the side plastic shroud on the side, and see if I can get to it then. Other ideas? Thanks, Mike Ward

Okay guy, I bought a 23 ga pin nailer for the cabinet door project. After research I landed on Grex P635L. I like that it can do 1/2” pins and the offset jig is nice. a.co I am getting used to the 2 lever trigger as this model does not have the typical depressible nose to arm the trigger. It also does not have the typical adjustable depth setting, instead the air pressure needs to be increased. Surprisingly it wants at least 110PSI to ensure the 5/8” pin is set below the surface. Even though this project is hard maple, this pressure is much higher than I expected. I typically run all of my nailers at 90 PSI, without issues. Issue is that 110 PSI is higher than my compressors cut in pressure and I have to keep an eye on the pressure. I already have one pin above surface to deal with. I looked into adjusting the pressure switch but can’t guarantee minimum cut-in of 110 PSI without going over 135 PSI maximum cutout. A new switch is same (109-140), presumably due to differential pressure requirement. All this to ask, are there 23 ga pin nailers that don’t require pressure over 100 PSI? Imran Malik IAM Wood Creations https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Hey guys. I'm in need of a 12" digital caliper. I have a Mitutoyo 6" that is excellent, but their 12" calipers are upwards of $470 or so. There are many cheaper variants (Fowler, Inzise, Accusize, etc.). Can anyone recommend a decent one? Some of these cheaper calipers have flimsier bodies and thinner calipers. The flexible bodies can cause a variance in measurement. I would love a stainless steel variant, but let me know what you think. -Aaron Inami

Subject kinda says is all but, I just discovered the smart stand that came with my Comatic DS700 is too wide to mount to the flip away bracket. The hole pattern is fine but the flange at the base is roughly 6.7” wide whereas the usable width of the bracket (without running into the strut support) is around 5”. Has anyone successfully mounted a recent Comatic power feeder to a Felder flip-away bracket. If so can you provide details on the stand from Comatic? Regards, Ron

I got tired of fighting the Felder F48 power feeder. Very heavy and awkward to switch from horizontal to vertical feeding. So I purchased a Comatic DC70 with the smart stand. In error, I assumed the bases of the stands would all be similar. To my chagrin, I found the base of the smart stand will not bolt up to the plate on the tilting mount of my KF700SP. I understand the weight considerations. The smart stand is heavier than the old stand, while the new feeder is considerably lighter than the F48. And I can remember to lock the memory feature on the smart stand before swinging it out of the way. So, to my question(s). Has anyone else attempted to mount a smart stand to the tilting base? If so, what modifications did you make? As you can see, part of the tilting mount interferes with the stand base, preventing it from being centered on the mount. Thanks for any suggestions. Alex B.

fyi... ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> Date: Wed, May 30, 2018 at 8:09 PM Subject: Re: [felder-woodworking] Install gas spring assistance for the tilt-away bracket for KF700 To: phil_moger@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> Marty, Carl Knapp from Felder USA sent me the brilliant instruction and pictures below on how to install the gas strut, and I was done in 5 minutes!!! Felder tech from Mississauga asked me to try the ratchet strap, I simply cannot get it work. I do not have the F48 on the bracket. I know it would be very difficult and dangerous to have it on the bracket while installing the gas strut. The gas strut made in Germany is rated at 1600N, no wonder I cannot push it down using my manpower :) From Carl Knapp: loosening the bolts circled and the lower nuts, That let the bracket lift up enough to attach the shock. Then I tighten it back down. On Wed, May 30, 2018 at 7:12 PM, Marty Fretheim lnmnmarty@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote: James, I had the same problem when I installed mine. I can't remember exactly what I did. I seem to recall that I left the two bottom nuts that attach the bracket down low on the side of the machine off. Then you can tilt the bracket up enough to get the pin in. Then you have some leverage to push the bracket down and install those two nuts. It looks like you have the stock feeder already installed on the bracket. I would remove it until you get the strut pinned and the bracket installed correctly. I wish I could remember exactly how I did it but you don't have a defective part as I had the same issue. Just ignore the funky Felder instructions and be creative. It is doable. Brian's advice is sound also. Good luck, Marty On May 30, 2018, at 12:00 PM, James Zhu james.zhu2@... [felder-woodworking] <felder-woodworking@...> wrote: Back to March, I got the Felder gas spring assistance, but life gets in the way. Today, I finally have time to install it. I have difficulty to attach the metal bracket to the head of the gas strut. See attached pictures. I tilt the base, the gas strut is just a few millimeters longer, and I am not able to push down the gas strut using my manpower to align the holes for the bolt connecting them together. Any advice? Thanks, James <IMG_4882.JPG> <IMG_4883.JPG> __._,_.___ Posted by: Marty Fretheim <lnmnmarty@...> Reply via web post ? Reply to sender ? Reply to group ? Start a New Topic ? Messages in this topic (2) Check out the automatic photo album with 2 photo(s) from this topic. Have you tried the highest rated email app? With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage. To Post a message, send it to: felder-woodworking@... Visit the group web site: http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/felder-woodworking Visit the FOG photo library at http://photobucket.com/albums/a88/Fogpics/ Visit Your Group New Members 3 ? Privacy ? Unsubscribe ? Terms of Use . __,_._,___

I really like my Fat 300 for lifting stuff. But the top is not flat and when I try to build something on it I don't have good results. I wonder if I just got a bad top, or if others have replaced theirs with another alternative. The MFT tops available on Amazon are not the correct size. I'd order another top from Felder if I thought that I might get a flat one. I thought about taking a hand plane to it, but don't really like that idea. Thanks for your help and suggestions. Bill Belanger

Have a set of "Big squeeze" air clamps for sale. I haven't had the time to properly install these on my current saw and have used them a few times and they work awesome. Just not using them enough to justify keeping them. Willing to ship on the buyers dime // Asking $600

All: I need HELP. I moved my 7.35kw Dual 51 from a shop with 240V to a shop condo with 208V (two legs from a 3 phase utility supply to a single phase panel). The Dual runs on a Phase Perfect Phase converter. The Dual worked fine in the old shop but will not run in the new...it starts up but when it hits full speed it shuts down. I called Felder and they said to change the transformer tap to +10 to make up for the 208 to 230. This did nothing...same issue. Now the recommendation is to replace the brake board as this handles the task from start to run modes. I have no confidence in that analysis as it worked just fine with 240V supply. In any case, since I am in the middle of a multi piece furniture production I absolutely must have the Dual operational. I ordered the brake board but want trouble shooting advice from some of the electrical experts that know Felder and frequent the FOG. Help!! Best, Terry

I have on repair an electronic part of this model . useful would be a wiring diagram ... thank you

My dream has come true - embrace the picnic hamper option: Felder Lifestyle Options - the latest edition to Format 4 youtu.be “You can use it functionally, but it’s more to complete the lifestyle experience”. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

I am about to re-check the alignment of the slider on my saw. I thought I had it pretty well tuned up, following the David Best videos, but am seeing some unexpected behavior. Small offcuts tend to fling back toward the front of the saw. If I trim 1/8” off the end of a piece, for instance, the off cut will often fly clear off the saw. Does this behavior give me some clues as to the slider alignment? Is it telling me I have too little toe-out, or maybe too much? I’m not burning the off-cut. Thanks for any advice! -- John Hinman Boise ID Kappa 450X and A941