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My guess is that I just caught a unlucky break with a motor that had some minor manufacturing defect in it that got worse over time. ?Talking to my EE friend, this should not usually happen in this timeframe unless you are running the motor continuous and hard.?
-Annu
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Hi Annu
I still remain unconvinced that your planer motor is faulty. ?You have two faulty brake boards. ? I had exactly the same problem with my machine (although it’s 3 phase and not single like yours). ?
When I removed the fuse on my brake board, the problem went away. ?Hence my suggestion to you to do the same. ?However, if the fault on your brake boards are different to that on mine then simp,y removing the fuse wont have the same result on your machine.
Therefore you need to bypass that brake board. ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
hey Imran,?
Here are the various combinations of things that happen.??
When all the motors are plugged in:
1. If I have the mode switch in the planer position and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a racket and surges back and forth without me touching the start button.
1a. If I lift up the planer table so that the limit switch is open, have the mode switch in the planer position, and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a humming noise without me touching the start button.
2. If I put the mode switch in table saw or shaper, have all the limit switches in the closed position, and turn on the circuit breaker, planer still makes a humming noise.
3.? I tried with the planer motor disconnected.? When the circuit breaker is turned on, there is no noise at all, confirming that the humming from #2 was comming from the planer motor.? If I push the on button in either table saw or shaper mode, their respective motors start making a humming noise
When i talk about the limit switches, i'm talking about the one on the shaper door and the one under the planer table.? Open means that it is not in the run position and closed that it is in the run poisition.? I made sure that the one on the shaper door was in the middle position.? the E-Stop was pulled out in all scenarios above.? The humming noise is the same as when i used the turn off the machine previously and the e-brake was engaged.
Could it be that the position switch is not working correctly since there is some power going to the planer motor if it is plugged in and I turn on the circuit breaker?
Thanks,?
Annu
|
Roger,
If the contactor on Annu’s machine only switches one of the hot power legs then what he has shared is totally possible because the short is to ground. As soon as powers gets to the motor there will be high current. This current won’t be seen by the off contactor as it is not going thru it. I am not sure if his machine has a current limit on the contactor.
Imran
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Show quoted text
On Jan 15, 2021, at 5:06 AM, Roger S <rsinden@...> wrote: ? Hi Annu
I still remain unconvinced that your planer motor is faulty. ?You have two faulty brake boards. ? I had exactly the same problem with my machine (although it’s 3 phase and not single like yours). ?
When I removed the fuse on my brake board, the problem went away. ?Hence my suggestion to you to do the same. ?However, if the fault on your brake boards are different to that on mine then simp,y removing the fuse wont have the same result on your machine.
Therefore you need to bypass that brake board. ?
Roger
hey Imran,?
Here are the various combinations of things that happen.??
When all the motors are plugged in:
1. If I have the mode switch in the planer position and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a racket and surges back and forth without me touching the start button.
1a. If I lift up the planer table so that the limit switch is open, have the mode switch in the planer position, and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a humming noise without me touching the start button.
2. If I put the mode switch in table saw or shaper, have all the limit switches in the closed position, and turn on the circuit breaker, planer still makes a humming noise.
3.? I tried with the planer motor disconnected.? When the circuit breaker is turned on, there is no noise at all, confirming that the humming from #2 was comming from the planer motor.? If I push the on button in either table saw or shaper mode, their respective motors start making a humming noise
When i talk about the limit switches, i'm talking about the one on the shaper door and the one under the planer table.? Open means that it is not in the run position and closed that it is in the run poisition.? I made sure that the one on the shaper door was in the middle position.? the E-Stop was pulled out in all scenarios above.? The humming noise is the same as when i used the turn off the machine previously and the e-brake was engaged.
Could it be that the position switch is not working correctly since there is some power going to the planer motor if it is plugged in and I turn on the circuit breaker?
Thanks,?
Annu
|
Imran
No, the contactor is in circuit with both Live and Neutral. ?However, if you look at the diagram, you will see that the incoming power is T’d off on the supply side of the contactor (1 and 3 on the RH half of the contactor (6)) and then feed the brake board. ?When the contactor is in the OFF position, the timed DC from the brake board is fed into 21 on the RH half of the contactor, via the closed contact and thence to the motor. ? I’m pretty sure that temporarily disconnecting that wire between brake board and 21will stop the planer motor buzzing. ?
But, Annu, if you do do this then make sure you’re undoing the correct wire and keep your fingers away!
This is the ONLY way power gets through without the ON button being pressed. ?The brake boards are faulty. I rest my case !
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Roger,
If the contactor on Annu’s machine only switches one of the hot power legs then what he has shared is totally possible because the short is to ground. As soon as powers gets to the motor there will be high current. This current won’t be seen by the off contactor as it is not going thru it. I am not sure if his machine has a current limit on the contactor.
Imran On Jan 15, 2021, at 5:06 AM, Roger S < rsinden@...> wrote: ? Hi Annu
I still remain unconvinced that your planer motor is faulty. ?You have two faulty brake boards. ? I had exactly the same problem with my machine (although it’s 3 phase and not single like yours). ?
When I removed the fuse on my brake board, the problem went away. ?Hence my suggestion to you to do the same. ?However, if the fault on your brake boards are different to that on mine then simp,y removing the fuse wont have the same result on your machine.
Therefore you need to bypass that brake board. ?
Roger
hey Imran,?
Here are the various combinations of things that happen.??
When all the motors are plugged in:
1. If I have the mode switch in the planer position and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a racket and surges back and forth without me touching the start button.
1a. If I lift up the planer table so that the limit switch is open, have the mode switch in the planer position, and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a humming noise without me touching the start button.
2. If I put the mode switch in table saw or shaper, have all the limit switches in the closed position, and turn on the circuit breaker, planer still makes a humming noise.
3.? I tried with the planer motor disconnected.? When the circuit breaker is turned on, there is no noise at all, confirming that the humming from #2 was comming from the planer motor.? If I push the on button in either table saw or shaper mode, their respective motors start making a humming noise
When i talk about the limit switches, i'm talking about the one on the shaper door and the one under the planer table.? Open means that it is not in the run position and closed that it is in the run poisition.? I made sure that the one on the shaper door was in the middle position.? the E-Stop was pulled out in all scenarios above.? The humming noise is the same as when i used the turn off the machine previously and the e-brake was engaged.
Could it be that the position switch is not working correctly since there is some power going to the planer motor if it is plugged in and I turn on the circuit breaker?
Thanks,?
Annu
|
Hey Roger,?
So my question is this...if the brake board is faulty, then why is the shaper and tablesaw working fine when the planer motor is disconnected.? Additionally, if you plug the planer motor into the tablesaw or shaper motor connections, it has the same issue, whereas if you plug the shaper motor or table saw motor into the planer motor connection, they still work fine.? We'll find out tomorrow.? A new motor should be here in the afternoon and i'm working on getting the machine lifted and placed on wooden cribbing this afternoon.? I feel pretty sure that there is either a ground short in the motor or the wiring to planer.? When I get the motor out, i'll test it at the motor with the wiring disconnected.? I will say that this group along with Felder support have been awesome for support.? I was on the phone with a Felder tech for an hour yesterday that has done this swap out before and he took me through a very detail discussion of what i need to do with and excellent emphasis on safety considerations.
-Annu
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Hi Annu
I'm a little confused with what you’ve said below.
So my question is this...if the brake board is faulty, then why is the shaper and tablesaw working fine when the planer motor is disconnected
But in another post you said
3.? I tried with the planer motor disconnected.? When the circuit breaker is turned on, there is no noise at all, confirming that the humming from #2 was comming from the planer motor.? If I push the on button in either table saw or shaper mode, their respective motors start making a humming noise
Next up, when you did this test?
5.? He said that eack motor has two sets of winding connections (U1/U2 and Z1/Z2) and a ground connection.? There should be continuity between the corresponding winding pairs but not between them (U1/Z1, U2/Z2, etc.) or between the ground and one of the winding pairs.? So i checked this on the planer motor.? I had continuty between the Z1/Z2 connection and ground which he said indicated the motor short.? I checked the other two motor wires and the continuity was as he stated.
Did you do it with the motor plugged in or not ? ?What resistance did you get on the meter ?
If the planer motor was plugged in, please humour me and check the whether Z1/Z2 on either of the other two motors also show a sort to ground when they are plugged in.
To pick up on your other comments in the last post….
?Additionally, if you plug the planer motor into the tablesaw or shaper motor connections, it has the same issue, ? ? The DC braking feed is common across all three motors - regardless of function switch position. It comes from (22) on the contactor as I said then feeds in to pin 4 (Z2) and loops through to the same pin on the other motors. ?So if the fault is external to the planer motor then that is what you would expect to happen.
Cheers
Roger
. ?
Hey Roger,?
So my question is this...if the brake board is faulty, then why is the shaper and tablesaw working fine when the planer motor is disconnected.? Additionally, if you plug the planer motor into the tablesaw or shaper motor connections, it has the same issue, whereas if you plug the shaper motor or table saw motor into the planer motor connection, they still work fine.? We'll find out tomorrow.? A new motor should be here in the afternoon and i'm working on getting the machine lifted and placed on wooden cribbing this afternoon.? I feel pretty sure that there is either a ground short in the motor or the wiring to planer.? When I get the motor out, i'll test it at the motor with the wiring disconnected.? I will say that this group along with Felder support have been awesome for support.? I was on the phone with a Felder tech for an hour yesterday that has done this swap out before and he took me through a very detail discussion of what i need to do with and excellent emphasis on safety considerations.
-Annu
|
Hey Roger,? I see the confusion.? On item #3 that you pointed out, that was the case because I did not have the planer limit switch wire (#4 on my junction box picture) plugged in.? It was engaging the ebrake during that testing period because of that.? Once i addressed this and redid the test, both the shaper and table saw worked.?? On item #5, I did the test with planer motor wiring while not plugged in.? I have not removed the motor yet, so i will test this at the motor as well.? On the table saw motor wiring and shaper motor wiring there is no continuity between between the Z1/Z2 or U1/U2 to ground. My post #112944 goes through all the testing I did once I realized that the planer limit switch was not plugged in.??
My post? #112958?goes through me testing the shaper motor in the planer connection on the electrical box. -Annu
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Thanks Annu. ?Fingers crossed for you. ?Still confused this end ..
On item #5, I did the test with planer motor wiring while not plugged in.? I have not removed the motor yet, so i will test this at the motor as well.? Those two situations are identical and so no need to test the motor once you have taken it out.
One final thought I had was if you connected any old mains light bulb in series with each of the windings in turn and applied power (to that…not the machine !) you should see some AC (not a lot) ?volts across the ‘good’ winding and zero volts across the ‘bad’ one. ?
And just to double check. when you did this, ? ?On the table saw motor wiring and shaper motor wiring there is no continuity between between the Z1/Z2 or U1/U2 to ground. ? They were still plugged into the machine when you did this ?
Roger
[Edited Message Follows]
Hey Roger,? I see the confusion.? On item #3 that you pointed out, that was the case because I did not have the planer limit switch wire (#4 on my junction box picture) plugged in.? It was engaging the ebrake during that testing period because of that.? Once i addressed this and redid the test, both the shaper and table saw worked.?? On item #5, I did the test with planer motor wiring while not plugged in.? I have not removed the motor yet, so i will test this at the motor as well.? On the table saw motor wiring and shaper motor wiring there is no continuity between between the Z1/Z2 or U1/U2 to ground. My post #112944 goes through all the testing I did once I realized that the planer limit switch was not plugged in.??
My post? #112958?goes through me testing the shaper motor in the planer connection on the electrical box. -Annu
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Roger,
The schematic is so faint that I was not able to follow it. With your details below and some imagination I have a better understanding.
K1 & K2 are the contactors and 15 is the planer motor. I only see one switched line to the planer motor (Z2) from K1 pin 22. Z1, U1 & U2 are only connected to selector (Cam) switch.
I was mostly trying to provide logic and relying on Annu to troubleshoot. Hopefully, this clears it up unless i am missing something, which won’t be the first time ?
Imran
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On Jan 15, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Roger S <rsinden@...> wrote: ? Imran
No, the contactor is in circuit with both Live and Neutral. ?However, if you look at the diagram, you will see that the incoming power is T’d off on the supply side of the contactor (1 and 3 on the RH half of the contactor (6)) and then feed the brake board. ?When the contactor is in the OFF position, the timed DC from the brake board is fed into 21 on the RH half of the contactor, via the closed contact and thence to the motor. ? I’m pretty sure that temporarily disconnecting that wire between brake board and 21will stop the planer motor buzzing. ?
But, Annu, if you do do this then make sure you’re undoing the correct wire and keep your fingers away!
This is the ONLY way power gets through without the ON button being pressed. ?The brake boards are faulty. I rest my case !
Roger
Roger,
If the contactor on Annu’s machine only switches one of the hot power legs then what he has shared is totally possible because the short is to ground. As soon as powers gets to the motor there will be high current. This current won’t be seen by the off contactor as it is not going thru it. I am not sure if his machine has a current limit on the contactor.
Imran On Jan 15, 2021, at 5:06 AM, Roger S < rsinden@...> wrote: ? Hi Annu
I still remain unconvinced that your planer motor is faulty. ?You have two faulty brake boards. ? I had exactly the same problem with my machine (although it’s 3 phase and not single like yours). ?
When I removed the fuse on my brake board, the problem went away. ?Hence my suggestion to you to do the same. ?However, if the fault on your brake boards are different to that on mine then simp,y removing the fuse wont have the same result on your machine.
Therefore you need to bypass that brake board. ?
Roger
hey Imran,?
Here are the various combinations of things that happen.??
When all the motors are plugged in:
1. If I have the mode switch in the planer position and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a racket and surges back and forth without me touching the start button.
1a. If I lift up the planer table so that the limit switch is open, have the mode switch in the planer position, and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a humming noise without me touching the start button.
2. If I put the mode switch in table saw or shaper, have all the limit switches in the closed position, and turn on the circuit breaker, planer still makes a humming noise.
3.? I tried with the planer motor disconnected.? When the circuit breaker is turned on, there is no noise at all, confirming that the humming from #2 was comming from the planer motor.? If I push the on button in either table saw or shaper mode, their respective motors start making a humming noise
When i talk about the limit switches, i'm talking about the one on the shaper door and the one under the planer table.? Open means that it is not in the run position and closed that it is in the run poisition.? I made sure that the one on the shaper door was in the middle position.? the E-Stop was pulled out in all scenarios above.? The humming noise is the same as when i used the turn off the machine previously and the e-brake was engaged.
Could it be that the position switch is not working correctly since there is some power going to the planer motor if it is plugged in and I turn on the circuit breaker?
Thanks,?
Annu
|
Imran
That line is the DC braking connection as mentioned in another post. ? The actual switched wire in normal operation is looped in to 22 (and from there fed to Z2 on all the motors) and is fed from 1 on K2. (ie supplies live to the motor) when the On button is pressed.
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Show quoted text
Roger,
The schematic is so faint that I was not able to follow it. With your details below and some imagination I have a better understanding.
K1 & K2 are the contactors and 15 is the planer motor. I only see one switched line to the planer motor (Z2) from K1 pin 22. Z1, U1 & U2 are only connected to selector (Cam) switch.
I was mostly trying to provide logic and relying on Annu to troubleshoot. Hopefully, this clears it up unless i am missing something, which won’t be the first time ?
Imran On Jan 15, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Roger S < rsinden@...> wrote: ? Imran
No, the contactor is in circuit with both Live and Neutral. ?However, if you look at the diagram, you will see that the incoming power is T’d off on the supply side of the contactor (1 and 3 on the RH half of the contactor (6)) and then feed the brake board. ?When the contactor is in the OFF position, the timed DC from the brake board is fed into 21 on the RH half of the contactor, via the closed contact and thence to the motor. ? I’m pretty sure that temporarily disconnecting that wire between brake board and 21will stop the planer motor buzzing. ?
But, Annu, if you do do this then make sure you’re undoing the correct wire and keep your fingers away!
This is the ONLY way power gets through without the ON button being pressed. ?The brake boards are faulty. I rest my case !
Roger
Roger,
If the contactor on Annu’s machine only switches one of the hot power legs then what he has shared is totally possible because the short is to ground. As soon as powers gets to the motor there will be high current. This current won’t be seen by the off contactor as it is not going thru it. I am not sure if his machine has a current limit on the contactor.
Imran On Jan 15, 2021, at 5:06 AM, Roger S < rsinden@...> wrote: ? Hi Annu
I still remain unconvinced that your planer motor is faulty. ?You have two faulty brake boards. ? I had exactly the same problem with my machine (although it’s 3 phase and not single like yours). ?
When I removed the fuse on my brake board, the problem went away. ?Hence my suggestion to you to do the same. ?However, if the fault on your brake boards are different to that on mine then simp,y removing the fuse wont have the same result on your machine.
Therefore you need to bypass that brake board. ?
Roger
hey Imran,?
Here are the various combinations of things that happen.??
When all the motors are plugged in:
1. If I have the mode switch in the planer position and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a racket and surges back and forth without me touching the start button.
1a. If I lift up the planer table so that the limit switch is open, have the mode switch in the planer position, and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a humming noise without me touching the start button.
2. If I put the mode switch in table saw or shaper, have all the limit switches in the closed position, and turn on the circuit breaker, planer still makes a humming noise.
3.? I tried with the planer motor disconnected.? When the circuit breaker is turned on, there is no noise at all, confirming that the humming from #2 was comming from the planer motor.? If I push the on button in either table saw or shaper mode, their respective motors start making a humming noise
When i talk about the limit switches, i'm talking about the one on the shaper door and the one under the planer table.? Open means that it is not in the run position and closed that it is in the run poisition.? I made sure that the one on the shaper door was in the middle position.? the E-Stop was pulled out in all scenarios above.? The humming noise is the same as when i used the turn off the machine previously and the e-brake was engaged.
Could it be that the position switch is not working correctly since there is some power going to the planer motor if it is plugged in and I turn on the circuit breaker?
Thanks,?
Annu
|
Roger,
I am saying the same thing. Z2 is the only motor connection that is switched. What Annu reported is possible, assuming the other hot is always present thru Cam switch, i.e., not switched in by the selector switch.
If the 2nd hot is switched via the selector switch, then it is not possible for the planer motor to draw current (when selector is on shaper or saw) w/o pressing the start switch. This is something Annu reported and would require a secondary failure.
Imran
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On Jan 15, 2021, at 5:34 PM, Roger S <rsinden@...> wrote: ? Imran
That line is the DC braking connection as mentioned in another post. ? The actual switched wire in normal operation is looped in to 22 (and from there fed to Z2 on all the motors) and is fed from 1 on K2. (ie supplies live to the motor) when the On button is pressed.
Roger
Roger,
The schematic is so faint that I was not able to follow it. With your details below and some imagination I have a better understanding.
K1 & K2 are the contactors and 15 is the planer motor. I only see one switched line to the planer motor (Z2) from K1 pin 22. Z1, U1 & U2 are only connected to selector (Cam) switch.
I was mostly trying to provide logic and relying on Annu to troubleshoot. Hopefully, this clears it up unless i am missing something, which won’t be the first time ?
Imran On Jan 15, 2021, at 7:42 AM, Roger S < rsinden@...> wrote: ? Imran
No, the contactor is in circuit with both Live and Neutral. ?However, if you look at the diagram, you will see that the incoming power is T’d off on the supply side of the contactor (1 and 3 on the RH half of the contactor (6)) and then feed the brake board. ?When the contactor is in the OFF position, the timed DC from the brake board is fed into 21 on the RH half of the contactor, via the closed contact and thence to the motor. ? I’m pretty sure that temporarily disconnecting that wire between brake board and 21will stop the planer motor buzzing. ?
But, Annu, if you do do this then make sure you’re undoing the correct wire and keep your fingers away!
This is the ONLY way power gets through without the ON button being pressed. ?The brake boards are faulty. I rest my case !
Roger
Roger,
If the contactor on Annu’s machine only switches one of the hot power legs then what he has shared is totally possible because the short is to ground. As soon as powers gets to the motor there will be high current. This current won’t be seen by the off contactor as it is not going thru it. I am not sure if his machine has a current limit on the contactor.
Imran On Jan 15, 2021, at 5:06 AM, Roger S < rsinden@...> wrote: ? Hi Annu
I still remain unconvinced that your planer motor is faulty. ?You have two faulty brake boards. ? I had exactly the same problem with my machine (although it’s 3 phase and not single like yours). ?
When I removed the fuse on my brake board, the problem went away. ?Hence my suggestion to you to do the same. ?However, if the fault on your brake boards are different to that on mine then simp,y removing the fuse wont have the same result on your machine.
Therefore you need to bypass that brake board. ?
Roger
hey Imran,?
Here are the various combinations of things that happen.??
When all the motors are plugged in:
1. If I have the mode switch in the planer position and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a racket and surges back and forth without me touching the start button.
1a. If I lift up the planer table so that the limit switch is open, have the mode switch in the planer position, and then turn on the circuit breaker, the planer makes a humming noise without me touching the start button.
2. If I put the mode switch in table saw or shaper, have all the limit switches in the closed position, and turn on the circuit breaker, planer still makes a humming noise.
3.? I tried with the planer motor disconnected.? When the circuit breaker is turned on, there is no noise at all, confirming that the humming from #2 was comming from the planer motor.? If I push the on button in either table saw or shaper mode, their respective motors start making a humming noise
When i talk about the limit switches, i'm talking about the one on the shaper door and the one under the planer table.? Open means that it is not in the run position and closed that it is in the run poisition.? I made sure that the one on the shaper door was in the middle position.? the E-Stop was pulled out in all scenarios above.? The humming noise is the same as when i used the turn off the machine previously and the e-brake was engaged.
Could it be that the position switch is not working correctly since there is some power going to the planer motor if it is plugged in and I turn on the circuit breaker?
Thanks,?
Annu
|
Step one completed. ?Machine is cribbed up. ?Apparently the middle section is slightly higher than the outsides by about 1/8”. ?If you look at the picture, the middle 4x4s are loose. ?Gonna make some shims to get them engaged. ?Now I’m patiently waiting for UPS for the new motor and my friend to bring over a car jack so I can safely lower the old motor after unbolting. ?
-Annu
|
Annu
How did you get that machine up onto those blocks ? ?Did you do it by yourself or have a friendly forklift truck driver ?
BTW. your floor is w..a..y. too clean !
Fingers crossed for you.
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[Edited Message Follows] Step one completed. ?Machine is cribbed up. ?Apparently the middle section is slightly higher than the outsides by about 1/8”. ?If you look at the picture, the middle 4x4s are loose. ?Gonna make some shims to get them engaged. ?Now I’m patiently waiting for UPS for the new motor and my friend to bring over a car jack so I can safely lower the motor after unbolting. ?
-Annu
<5AAFFC82-4958-4E2F-855D-387021BD08B4.jpeg>
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Hey Roger,?
I was able to lift it with a pallet jack and a extra set of 4x4s. ?See the attached picture.
Question for the group...the new motor has six wires terminals and a ground on it instead of the 4 terminals and a ground. ?See the attached diagrams from the covers. ?On the bottom cover, what are the two blacks that seem to be their own circuit? ?Do I just leave those disconnected?
-Annu
|
I’m thinking it might be a thermal overload option.
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[Edited Message Follows]
Hey Roger,? I was able to lift it with a pallet jack and a extra set of 4x4s. ?See the attached picture. Question for the group...the new motor has six wires terminals and a ground on it instead of the 4 terminals and a ground. ?See the attached diagrams from the covers. ?On the bottom cover, what are the two blacks that seem to be their own circuit? ?Do I just leave those disconnected? -Annu
<image.jpg><image.jpg>
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This is for a three-phase but looks as if it fits what you’ve got. ?I think you can ignore it since the C3-31 has it built-in already.
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[Edited Message Follows]
Hey Roger,? I was able to lift it with a pallet jack and a extra set of 4x4s. ?See the attached picture. Question for the group...the new motor has six wires terminals and a ground on it instead of the 4 terminals and a ground. ?See the attached diagrams from the covers. ?On the bottom cover, what are the two blacks that seem to be their own circuit? ?Do I just leave those disconnected? -Annu
<image.jpg><image.jpg>
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Well...i'm seriously frustrated now....the new motor that was sent has a different motor shaft key than the original motor.? The new motor's key is like a ramp and the old motor's key is flat.? So now i can't fit the belt pully onto the new motor.? Additionaly, when i got the new motor off the foam padding it was sitting on in the shipping box, i realized that mounting bracklets are both bent.? so even if I could have put the pully on the motor, there was no way that I would have been able to install and allign it.? Now i will have to rerent the pallet jack and trailer to bring it home whenever Felder addresses this.? I've attached some pictures below.? In the picture of the new motor, the old motor is on the top and the new motor is on the bottom.? You can clearly see that the old motor's brackets are nice and flat and the new motor's brackets are not.? I'm assuming that they are not supposed to be like that and bent into shape during bolting.? All i want to do is relax in my workshop and make some damn furniture.....
Annu
PS...i did confirm the ground short on the original motor after I removed the wiring harness.
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Hi Annu,
I feel your frustration. I am sure this is already considered but can the brackets be transferred from old to new motor?
I am not sure how the pulley is retained on the shaft but could the key be cut to the length that matches the flat portion of the slot or a new shorter key purchased. Key material is fairly common. I am assuming the new motor is designed to work with shorter key.
Imran
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On Jan 16, 2021, at 6:25 PM, annu.marwaha@... wrote: ?Well...i'm seriously frustrated now....the new motor that was sent has a different motor shaft key than the original motor.? The new motor's key is like a ramp and the old motor's key is flat.? So now i can't fit the belt pully onto the new motor.? Additionaly, when i got the new motor off the foam padding it was sitting on in the shipping box, i realized that mounting bracklets are both bent.? so even if I could have put the pully on the motor, there was no way that I would have been able to install and allign it.? Now i will have to rerent the pallet jack and trailer to bring it home whenever Felder addresses this.? I've attached some pictures below.? In the picture of the new motor, the old motor is on the top and the new motor is on the bottom.? You can clearly see that the old motor's brackets are nice and flat and the new motor's brackets are not.? I'm assuming that they are not supposed to be like that and bent into shape during bolting.? All i want to do is relax in my workshop and make some damn furniture..... Annu PS...i did confirm the ground short on the original motor after I removed the wiring harness.
<old motor key.jpg> <new motor key.jpg> <motor comparison.jpg>
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Too bad. The bracket looks like AL, if that was the only item, I probably try to straighten it but key being welded is a non starter.
I have not worked with a lot of motors but I have seen the ramp on the end of key trench (perhaps due to milling) but the key sat flat and the groove on the pulley is flat.
If i understand you correctly the key projection from shaft is ramped. I am curious if that is intended or an error.
Imran
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On Jan 16, 2021, at 6:51 PM, annu.marwaha@... wrote: ?Hey Imran,
the key is welded to the shaft. ?I can see the small filet weld towards the motor housing. ?The brackets are also part of the motor housing. ?I’ll have to get Felder to address it.
-Annu
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Somehow I could not see it well in mail but on groupio I can see that key is ramped in the pic.
Imran
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imran
