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Annu, what is the frame size of the motor?? It looks like the feet are aluminum.? If steel I would just bend them back.? Aluminum might break but I'd look for a different source if the frame is a standard IEC metric motor.? I also assume the slot in the shaft
is what is sloped or you could just swap or buy a new key.? I've not seen sloped keyways in a shaft so it is something new to me.? Dave
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Well...i'm seriously frustrated now....the new motor that was sent has a different motor shaft key than the original motor.? The new motor's key is like a ramp and the old motor's key is flat.? So now i can't fit the belt pully onto the new motor.? Additionaly,
when i got the new motor off the foam padding it was sitting on in the shipping box, i realized that mounting bracklets are both bent.? so even if I could have put the pully on the motor, there was no way that I would have been able to install and allign it.?
Now i will have to rerent the pallet jack and trailer to bring it home whenever Felder addresses this.? I've attached some pictures below.? In the picture of the new motor, the old motor is on the top and the new motor is on the bottom.? You can clearly see
that the old motor's brackets are nice and flat and the new motor's brackets are not.? I'm assuming that they are not supposed to be like that and bent into shape during bolting.? All i want to do is relax in my workshop and make some damn furniture.....
Annu
PS...i did confirm the ground short on the original motor after I removed the wiring harness.
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Hey All,
I was wrong about the key. ?On closer inspection, it was not welded and just needed to be tapped in. ?Not sure if I should attempt with the Bent rails though.
-Annu
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They are part of the outer motor housing extrusion. I would check with Felder and if they are ok with it, clamp it to a solid flat surface before you install it and see if you can pull the flanges back flat without breaking anything. If it works, then it’s up to you if you want to finish installing it, if they crack, Felder will have to get you another motor, and who knows how long that will take.
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Hey All,
I was wrong about the key. ?On closer inspection, it was not welded and just needed to be tapped in. ?Not sure if I should attempt with the Bent rails though.
-Annu
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I feel your frustration, Annu. I’m glad, though, that you confirmed the motor short as that eliminates any remaining doubt in that area and looks as if I was wrong in insisting that the brake module was at fault.
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On 17 Jan 2021, at 01:37, Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote:
They are part of the outer motor housing extrusion. I would check with Felder and if they are ok with it, clamp it to a solid flat surface before you install it and see if you can pull the flanges back flat without breaking anything. If it works, then it’s up to you if you want to finish installing it, if they crack, Felder will have to get you another motor, and who knows how long that will take.
Hey All,
I was wrong about the key. ?On closer inspection, it was not welded and just needed to be tapped in. ?Not sure if I should attempt with the Bent rails though.
-Annu
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Hey All,
My hammer is now working.
Brian,
Thanks for your advice about bolting down the motor and seeing if it straightens out, that did the trick. ?BTW, your parallel arms my be my favorite accessory.
Imran/Roger,
Thanks for all your advice and troubleshoot tips on the electrical system.
-Annu
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Great to hear you are sorted, Annu
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[Edited Message Follows] Hey All,
My hammer is now working.
Brian,
Thanks for your advice about bolting down the motor and seeing if it straightens out, that did the trick. ?BTW, your parallel arms my be my favorite accessory.
Imran/Roger,
Thanks for all your advice and troubleshoot tips on the electrical system.
-Annu
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Glad that worked, extruded aluminum is usually not too brittle, so I hoped that they wouldn’t crack. Also happy to hear that you really like the parallel fences!
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Hey All,
My hammer is now working.
Brian,
Thanks for your advise about bolting down the motor and seeing if it straightens out, that did the trick. ?BTW, your parallel arms my be my favorite accessory.
Imran/Roger,
Thanks for all your advise and troubleshoot tips on the electrical system.
-Annu
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Annu,
Glad you are up and running.
If it was me, I would at least open the old motor to see if the short is outside the windings. Like damaged insulation of the connecting wires. You cannot damage it much more.
Curious if any of our motor experts would recommend saving the old motor to salvage bearings if the need arose. It is not worth it for saving money but seems like a good way to insure against obsolescence.
Imran
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On Jan 17, 2021, at 9:46 AM, annu.marwaha@... wrote: ? [Edited Message Follows]
Hey All,
My hammer is now working.
Brian,
Thanks for your advice about bolting down the motor and seeing if it straightens out, that did the trick. ?BTW, your parallel arms my be my favorite accessory.
Imran/Roger,
Thanks for all your advice and troubleshoot tips on the electrical system.
-Annu
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It seems like i never throw anything away but the bearings are likely small and cheap.? The rotor, end bell, and fan blades might be worth saving and I don't know if the stator and windings can be removed to save the frame but that is all a lot of work for
what is a small frame not very expensive motor.? I'd never reuse motor bearings unless really desperate or they were precision direct drive motor and spindle bearings.? A complete motor is often cheaper than rewinding or repairing now.? Many smaller motors
are made in China now even if ABB or Leeson.? Dave
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Annu,
Glad you are up and running.
If it was me, I would at least open the old motor to see if the short is outside the windings. Like damaged insulation of the connecting wires. You cannot damage it much more.
Curious if any of our motor experts would recommend saving the old motor to salvage bearings if the need arose. It is not worth it for saving money but seems like a good way to insure against obsolescence.
Imran
On Jan 17, 2021, at 9:46 AM, annu.marwaha@... wrote:
?
[Edited Message Follows]
Hey All,
My hammer is now working.
Brian,
Thanks for your advice about bolting down the motor and seeing if it straightens out, that did the trick. ?BTW, your parallel arms my be my favorite accessory.
Imran/Roger,
Thanks for all your advice and troubleshoot tips on the electrical system.
-Annu
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Good to know, David.
Imran
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On Jan 17, 2021, at 12:55 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote: ?
It seems like i never throw anything away but the bearings are likely small and cheap.? The rotor, end bell, and fan blades might be worth saving and I don't know if the stator and windings can be removed to save the frame but that is all a lot of work for
what is a small frame not very expensive motor.? I'd never reuse motor bearings unless really desperate or they were precision direct drive motor and spindle bearings.? A complete motor is often cheaper than rewinding or repairing now.? Many smaller motors
are made in China now even if ABB or Leeson.? Dave
Annu,
Glad you are up and running.
If it was me, I would at least open the old motor to see if the short is outside the windings. Like damaged insulation of the connecting wires. You cannot damage it much more.
Curious if any of our motor experts would recommend saving the old motor to salvage bearings if the need arose. It is not worth it for saving money but seems like a good way to insure against obsolescence.
Imran
On Jan 17, 2021, at 9:46 AM, annu.marwaha@... wrote:
?
[Edited Message Follows]
Hey All,
My hammer is now working.
Brian,
Thanks for your advice about bolting down the motor and seeing if it straightens out, that did the trick. ?BTW, your parallel arms my be my favorite accessory.
Imran/Roger,
Thanks for all your advice and troubleshoot tips on the electrical system.
-Annu
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I know this is an old thread but I accessed it about ten times when trying to sort out why my P/J motor would not start.
I also went through the rigmarole of trying to isolate the location of what I presumed was an electrical problem and arrived at the point where I found continuity on one of the motor windings (the contacts shown on one of the images posted by Annu) was faulty, pointing to the problem being located in the motor.
In order to access the motor, one either has to resort to the pallet jack method or as my smart electrician mate advised, simply unbolt the P/J module from the main body of the C3-31. ?As frightening and untenable as this seems, it was a breeze. ?I think there were nine bolts holding the two modules together and once removed -- accessed through the shaper door -- the two were separated and it was then simply a matter of tilting the module up on one end and the motor could be accessed.
Fortunately, the problem on my machine was in the connection box on the motor and once it was opened, the smell alone indicated a major mischief had occurred with the wires being fried in the connector block within which was partially melted and several of the wires welded together. The fix was achieved by simply replacing the connector block with a new one, reinserting the freshened wires and firing it up. ?Happy days!
Reconnecting the P/J module to the main body was a cinch and took all of about 30 mins.
Back to normal now but with the nagging, unanswered question -- what caused it to misbehave in the first place?
Incidentally, my local Felder man told me he doubted there was anew motor available in Australia and one would either need to be airfreighted from Austria or sent in a container (three months) or a possible more wallet friendly option would be to have the motor rewired. ?Fortunately, I did not need to go down that path.
Brian
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Great post and that’s a great tip to split the machines.
Connector blocks can work loose with vibration. ?That then causes a higher resistance connection which, with all that current flowing through, will get very hot and ultimately do what yours has done.
Many, many, many years ago, I used to work for the BBC on Outside Broadcasts (OB’s). ?One time, the mains power panel had the same problem due to those vehicles pounding up and down the motorways. ?It became SOP to periodically go inside the panel and tighten up the blocks.
Roger
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I know this is an old thread but I accessed it about ten times when trying to sort out why my P/J motor would not start.
I also went through the rigmarole of trying to isolate the location of what I presumed was an electrical problem and arrived at the point where I found continuity on one of the motor windings (the contacts shown on one of the images posted by Annu) was faulty, pointing to the problem being located in the motor.
In order to access the motor, one either has to resort to the pallet jack method or as my smart electrician mate advised, simply unbolt the P/J module from the main body of the C3-31. ?As frightening and untenable as this seems, it was a breeze. ?I think there were nine bolts holding the two modules together and once removed -- accessed through the shaper door -- the two were separated and it was then simply a matter of tilting the module up on one end and the motor could be accessed.
Fortunately, the problem on my machine was in the connection box on the motor and once it was opened, the smell alone indicated a major mischief had occurred with the wires being fried in the connector block within which was partially melted and several of the wires welded together. The fix was achieved by simply replacing the connector block with a new one, reinserting the freshened wires and firing it up. ?Happy days!
Reconnecting the P/J module to the main body was a cinch and took all of about 30 mins.
Back to normal now but with the nagging, unanswered question -- what caused it to misbehave in the first place?
Incidentally, my local Felder man told me he doubted there was anew motor available in Australia and one would either need to be airfreighted from Austria or sent in a container (three months) or a possible more wallet friendly option would be to have the motor rewired. ?Fortunately, I did not need to go down that path.
Brian
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Thx Roger.
Excellent explanation for "why". ? Your description fits perfectly for what I saw when the box was opened.
Brian
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imran