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I haven’t used paperback veneer since I last did commercial work a LONG time ago so can only comment on raw and shop sawn. Ideally you want a hard glue line to avoid creep, urea would be the best

Hi David, My experience FWIW. Substrate-MDF. You can thickness MDF on your Northstate widebelt for the dimension you need. Plywood has issues you don't need. You do not need or want to seal the

Hi David I do a lot of veneering, but always with regular veneer. So everything that follows may not apply to paper back The rule of thumb is to not have the face veneer grain direction parallel to

I did a job for an architect with Wenge veneered doors.? ?He had six sheets of MDF laid up and finished by a supplier he knew of and I went down and picked the sheets up when they were ready.? I

I like UF glue but I can't get it locally anymore last time I looked and the stuff I used only had about a year of shelf life.? ?Silas Kopf uses it, maybe not all the time but he likes it.

I've used Lacewood PSA veneer on an MDF substrate for a large coffee table - ?I used Shellac on the MDF and sanded it before applying the veneer. Also veneered the opposing side to ensure stability

Hi David, I don't have any experience with the PSA backed veneers, but you couldn't pay me to experiment on a customer's project with it. There's no way that glue line is going to be rigid enough to

Hi David, I do a fair amount of veneering flat panels, though I’m typically working with 1/16" thick veneer, which is a bit more forgiving than the thinner material you're using. I’ve had decent

PSA is for compromised application/installation environments, and can have issues with finish solvents and heat - even sunshine through a window - releasing over time. Also can have issues applying

Great information, thank you for sharing. -- Burak Gürer Türkiye (owner Ad 951-K740S-FB710) gurerwoodcraft/Instagram

Hi David - I’ve used Better Bond XPress (dark) for recent walnut projects. It was recommended by veneer supplies and I can attest that it is excellent for veneering wood and paper backed veneers.

David, I have been following a very talented Australian woodworker (Nick Pedula) and he has several YouTube videos dealing with various aspects related to veneering. Here’s a link to one of his

It’s been several years since I did any veneer work, and I’m looking for some advice. I’m about to start the doors and drawer front for a large cabinet project

Hi Ron, I encountered the same problem when installing the smart stand on the tilt bracket on my KF700SP. I didn't want to grind away part of the stand base, so I made a shim to offset the assist

I don’t know if it makes a difference, but you only need two bolts martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330

I also plan on having a shim made to offset the gas strut to make more room for the base. ?I’m inclined to still grind off a little of the smart stand base to allow me to continue using two of the

Correction from Kyle - the Comatic standard stand is 5.5” wide at the base

I think offsetting the support arm would work as well, it's only a 1/4in after all.? You have a little misalignment with the bottom attachment point but it does not look like enough to bother

Just to clarify, I paid 1100 each and 92 martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330

Ha! I’m in the exact same boat. Just throwing this out there - but what about adding a shim plate to the strut support arm on the left to move it just left enough to allow the holes to align? ?The