¿ªÔÆÌåÓýIt¡¯s been several years since I did any veneer work, and I¡¯m looking for some advice. ?I¡¯m about to start the doors and drawer front for a large??(which is largely complete except for the front faces) and one of the options is to start with 19mm plywood and apply a quarter-sawn Wenge veneer. ?I have the choice between paper-backed veneer with [pick your favorite] glue in a vacuum bag setup, or to go with veneer that has a 3M PSA adhesive layer on the back side. ?I¡¯ve never worked with the latter, and I see all kinds of new and different glues available now for conventional vacuum bag glue-ups. ?So I¡¯m looking for suggestions & guidance that is ¡°current day¡± informed. ?I am NOT interested in a contact cement approach. This specific project will have a 19mm ApplyPly Premium substrate (12-layer birch with maple face). I would cut the three individual parts ~3mm undersized, apply 5-6mm thick Wenge edge band, then apply the Wenge face veneer, then fit and cut to finial size based on actual cabinet openings. ?There are two door panels that are 14¡± wide by 46¡± tall, and one drawer face that is 28¡± wide and 15¡± tall. ?I can source the quarter-sawn Wenge veneer with either paper or PSA adhesive backing in 4x8 sheets. Since I¡¯ve never worked with PSA-backed veneer, I¡¯m a bit skeptical not sure I want to experiment - so looking for input here. ?I see various comments that the substrate material should be finished with sealer, varnish, lacquer, etc. prior to applying the PSA-backed product. ? And if I do decide to use a traditional paper-backed veneer and vacuum bag route, which of the myriad of current glue alternatives is the best choice. I¡¯ve never worked with Wenge veneer either, so if anyone here has, I¡¯d love to get some understanding about crosscutting it after glue-up and what kind of tear-out challenges I might have to contend with. Thanks for your suggestions. David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best |