¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
  1. Felderownersgroup
  2. Messages
Single Messages Topics Expanded Polls

Re: Veneering Advice Sought

 

PSA is for compromised application/installation environments,?and can have issues with finish solvents and heat - even sunshine through a window - releasing over time. Also can have issues applying over older finishes that fail when the old finish loses adhesion to substrate. If you are making new, isolated parts with vacuum?press bag, go with the thickest paper back available (lots of paper back is 10mil, some is 20-22mil) for most bubble-free stability and insurance against application-caused defects. While cutting the doors, cut an extra set for platens.

For glues, I'd recommend PVA for a project like this. Must use firm foam roller for thin even glueline layer under veneer and fast absorption of moisture into both substrates), lest even slightly more thickness of glue line can have profound undesirable effects, such as the rubber "treaded" rollers found at Rocker and elsewhere.? If you are spry and the weather isn't too hot/dry, standard PVA like Titebond I/II . If not feeling spry - use longer open time of? Titebond "Cold Press 5176"? - now only offered in a neutral brown tint anyway. I don't think it's worth going to mixed powder glues or such for a small one-off like this when PVA is easy to clean, forgiving, and familiar to work with.?

Not Wenge specific, but I've had great results buzzing a Festool RTS400 with as low as 80 grit, chamfer-style to trim excess veneer edges and contour corners and skip the router trimming step entirely, eliminating nearly any tearout.

On Sat, Apr 19, 2025 at 8:39?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop=[email protected]> wrote:
It¡¯s been several years since I did any veneer work, and I¡¯m looking for some advice. ?

I¡¯m about to start the doors and drawer front for a large??(which is largely complete except for the front faces) and one of the options is to start with 19mm plywood and apply a quarter-sawn Wenge veneer.? I have the choice between paper-backed veneer with [pick your favorite] glue in a vacuum bag setup, or to go with veneer that has a 3M PSA adhesive layer on the back side.? I¡¯ve never worked with the latter, and I see all kinds of new and different glues available now for conventional vacuum bag glue-ups.? So I¡¯m looking for suggestions & guidance that is ¡°current day¡± informed.? I am NOT interested in a contact cement approach.

This specific project will have a 19mm ApplyPly Premium substrate (12-layer birch with maple face). I would cut the three individual parts ~3mm undersized, apply 5-6mm thick Wenge edge band, then apply the Wenge face veneer, then fit and cut to finial size based on actual cabinet openings.? There are two door panels that are 14¡± wide by 46¡± tall, and one drawer face that is 28¡± wide and 15¡± tall.? I can source the quarter-sawn Wenge veneer with either paper or PSA adhesive backing in 4x8 sheets.

Since I¡¯ve never worked with PSA-backed veneer, I¡¯m a bit skeptical not sure I want to experiment - so looking for input here.? I see various comments that the substrate material should be finished with sealer, varnish, lacquer, etc. prior to applying the PSA-backed product. ?

And if I do decide to use a traditional paper-backed veneer and vacuum bag route, which of the myriad of current glue alternatives is the best choice.

I¡¯ve never worked with Wenge veneer either, so if anyone here has, I¡¯d love to get some understanding about crosscutting it after glue-up and what kind of tear-out challenges I might have to contend with.

Thanks for your suggestions.






--
Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration
1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd)
St Louis, MO 63110

314.772.2167
brett@...
Join [email protected] to automatically receive all group messages.