Re: F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference
David,
How did you make sure the slider is coplanar to the cast-iron? What is your reference point?
Same as always: ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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Re: F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference
David - Thank you for your input. The suggestion of building a sled that covers the slider as well as part of the cast iron table (with layers of the foil tape on the bottom side) seems like the perfect solution. The only part that is not yet clear to me is how you deal with the ring inserts that?usually provide support right by the cutterhead. Depending on which size head I use, I would have to mount the entire sled further away from the fence which?may make the support of the workpiece problematic? Also, I suppose you do not clamp above the cast iron with this sled when using the slider since it would flex too much and bind with the cast iron? Would you still recommend I get the Felder tenoning plate for its stiffness and rigid build when I make narrow tenons??
Lastly, when you say my sliding table could use some alignment attention, you mean because?I get binding or because?0.2mm is too much of a height?difference in your opinion? The machine originally shipped with 0.6mm (right) and 0.3mm (left), but I have since corrected this to be 0.2mm on both sides. As you say, the last 10+% on either side are a different story.
Imran - yes, PF for jointer is something else I have been reading up on in the FOG archives. Haven't?come to a conclusion yet. Someone pointed to the fact that a feeder might press a bow out of a board that will be there again once out of the constraints of the feeder? I work a lot with very thick and bulky hardwoods (tropical 50-65 mm thick and 160-200mm wide) so I can't shave several mm off in a single pass. Feeding by hand, I usually go max 1mm in each pass. Another problem is that my AD741 does not come with a place to mount a feeder, so I would need to have a very solid independent place to bolt the feeder where it won't flex away from the jointer, yet can swing away when I need to open the unit to use the thicknesser. Really don't understand why Felder has mounting options for the bigger units, but not for the AD741?
Many thanks to you both for your very helpful feedback!
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cyprus
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Re: F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference
Hi Cornelius,
If you handle long stock often I recommend looking into PF for jointer. Longest I have jointed is bit over 4m. I have done the width that required 3x of my Dual 51 (510 mm). I have to be particular on the final glueup and light sanding is all it takes.
I do understand that your current project is challenging and you have feedback from David Best for some options.
As for Plano, I bought it cheap at an auction ($50 and gas) but then decided to add a column and all new plastic end liners. So I made it less cheap. I installed it in the only place available in the shop and the plan was to move my bench after moving the mitersaw. None of that happened so it has never been used. I was thinking of giving it a go for the current project but bot sure if it will happen.
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On Dec 6, 2024, at 3:51?PM, Cornelius via groups.io <Cornelius@...> wrote: ? Thanks for your feedback!
Brett - your suggestion with the copy paper makes sense?since we're only talking about a fraction of a mm, but how and where do you place/secure the paper when you feed a long workpiece past the cutterhead. Manual feed or power feeder would?simply push that paper along with the workpiece, wouldn't it? My pieces are 3 meters long, so they are not supported all the way and it would be a challenge to keep placing paper under the workpiece as it feeds past the cutterhead. Or do you have a trick here that I am missing?
Imran - you are correct that the simplest solution would be to not use a profile?for the glue joint, but my panels are 3 meters long and 90 cm wide. I cannot feed these through my jointer (AD741) to flatten if the joint shifts and is a tad misaligned after glue up. It would need to be in 3 sections and that still requires 2 more glue lines. You are correct that Dominos would solve this problem and I like dominos and have successfully used dominos for this purpose many times, but with 3 meter lengths I thought a continuous?profile joint would result in a faster assembly and cleaner joint. Btw, in your photo I see you have the Plano system in the background which I can imagine would serve exactly this purpose - aligning glue ups to stay flat? Are you happy with it, I am considering getting it, specifically for this type of job. However, having said that, I also had a project a few months ago where I was building a bread-board type panel and the cross piece that needed the groove was wider than the cast iron. This was the first time I encountered this problem. I tried to cut a groove 40mm deep and the slight angle caused a problem on the final fit.
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cyprus
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Re: F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference
David,
How did you make sure the slider is coplanar to the cast-iron? What is your reference point?
|
Re: F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference
Here are my suggestions.
Your sliding table should be adjusted to be the same distance above the cast iron top at both ends, and be coplanar to the cast iron top. ?It should also maintain its coplanar relationship to the cast iron top as it moves forward and backward. ?I have the sliding table on my Proifil 45 shaper set 0.15mm above the cast iron top, and it stays in that position and coplanar to the cast iron to throughout the center 80 percent of the travel. ?You are unlikely to get the slider to maintain this level of alignment in the first and last 10 percent of its travel - don¡¯t even try. ?But it sounds like your sliding table could use some alignment attention. ?
You mentioned that your clamps distort the sliding table extrusion. ?I would recommend using less clamping force, so if you are using pneumatic clamps, lower the air pressure. ?
For counter-profiling operations, I use the??if the material is narrow enough to not spill over the leading edge. ?This plate is a very rigid platform that can be set up to extend the support of the material across the cast iron top and close to the cutter or hood fence. ?This particular tenoning plate is rigid enough that you can clamp the material to it even over the cast iron top as shown below:
If the material is too wide to use the Felder tenoning plate, then I use a sled as described below.
I have made a sled that can be used to level the surface between the shaper fence and the sliding table. It is a sheet of phenolic coated baltic birch plywood the covers the entire surface area and has spacers on the back side where it extends over the cast iron top. ?The phenolic coating gives it a slick surface, so the sled can be kept stationary and the material sent through the cutter with a power feeder. ?A plywood panel with plastic laminate or other slick surface preparation would be just as good. ? It attaches to the sliding table just like the tenoning plate using flat-head recessed screws into T-nuts in the slider. ?
This sled performs like a super wide tenoning plate and can be used in two modes. ?A) The sliding table can be locked in position and the power feeder used to move the material through the cutter, or B) the slider can be used to move the sled and material secured to it through the cutter. ?Either way, the top surface of the sled is coplanar to the top surface of the sliding table (although elevated) and because of the spader/runners on the underside of the sled, it does not tilt or sag at the cutter. ?I use an adhesive-backed foil tape as the spacers on the back side of the sled above the cast iron top that is 0.005¡± thick. ?It¡¯s slick enough that it allows the sled to move along the cast iron top even with a pressure module pushing down from above. ?It does need to be replaced occasionally if the leading edge of the cast iron top catches it.
Hope this helps.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Dec 6, 2024, at 11:11?AM, Cornelius via groups.io <Cornelius@...> wrote:
Hi all sliding table shaper users,
?
I have a question regarding the usual/best/preferred relationship of sliding table height to cast-iron top of a shaper (stand alone, not KF combo).
?
The subject has been mentioned in several posts I searched. I have also watched David Best's informative and comprehensive videos on the subject of building a panel door using a shaper, a profile/counter profile cutter and the tenoning plate, but unfortunately, the subject is still unclear to me.?
?
The basic question is whether the slider is most commonly set up to be perfectly co-planer to the cast iron top or if the slider ought to be raised a tiny bit? Unfortunately, I only have one machine to do long grain profile cuts as well as tenoning work. Here is my situation:
?
I received my F700Z with the slider 0.6 mm higher than the cast iron on the right and 0.3 mm higher on the left of the machine. I attempted to correct this and managed to bring it to within 0.2 mm on both sides. Anything closer seems to bind if I use my eccentric clamps to hold down my work piece even slightly off center on the slider towards the spindle. It appears that the pressure of the clamps bend/twist the sliding table sufficiently to bind my work piece against the cast iron (and this is setting up the clamps with a 7mm spacer in order to not apply full pressure). Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
?
After the adjustment, I left the slider at a height difference of 0.2 mm and it has been working for me? .... mostly.? However, my current problem is when I lock the slider and run pieces the long way. Then I have a slight angle on my cut if the work piece is wider than the available cast iron section in front of the cutterhead and rests, partially, on the slider as well. Again, David Best has explained that this would not have any relevant impact when shaping raised panels (and I agree), but in my case I am trying to make glue joints with a profile cutter in order to to glue up wide boards and even a slight angle will cup my final glue-up.?
?
So, what does everyone do? Do you have the tables co-planer and when you do tenoning work, the Felder tenoning plate will slide smoothly over the cast iron even with no height difference. Even if the clamps are pressing down, close to the cutterhead (above the cast iron table) as in David Best's videos? You don't have any binding? I do not yet own the tenoning plate, but I am considering to buy it if it solves my problems. Or do you somehow shim the cast-iron top when you mill long grain pieces (but this seems difficult to me since any type of shim would slide along with the work piece, in manual or power feed mode).?
?
I hope these questions make sense.
?
Many thanks for everyone's support!
?
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus
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Re: F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference
Thanks for your feedback!
Brett - your suggestion with the copy paper makes sense?since we're only talking about a fraction of a mm, but how and where do you place/secure the paper when you feed a long workpiece past the cutterhead. Manual feed or power feeder would?simply push that paper along with the workpiece, wouldn't it? My pieces are 3 meters long, so they are not supported all the way and it would be a challenge to keep placing paper under the workpiece as it feeds past the cutterhead. Or do you have a trick here that I am missing?
Imran - you are correct that the simplest solution would be to not use a profile?for the glue joint, but my panels are 3 meters long and 90 cm wide. I cannot feed these through my jointer (AD741) to flatten if the joint shifts and is a tad misaligned after glue up. It would need to be in 3 sections and that still requires 2 more glue lines. You are correct that Dominos would solve this problem and I like dominos and have successfully used dominos for this purpose many times, but with 3 meter lengths I thought a continuous?profile joint would result in a faster assembly and cleaner joint. Btw, in your photo I see you have the Plano system in the background which I can imagine would serve exactly this purpose - aligning glue ups to stay flat? Are you happy with it, I am considering getting it, specifically for this type of job. However, having said that, I also had a project a few months ago where I was building a bread-board type panel and the cross piece that needed the groove was wider than the cast iron. This was the first time I encountered this problem. I tried to cut a groove 40mm deep and the slight angle caused a problem on the final fit.
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft Cyprus
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Re: F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference
I have a follow up question.
Did how did you make sure the fence is coplanar with the sliding table?
?
I tried to change the toe out of the slider, but when I am setting the back edge of the slider, the middle portion isn¡¯t coplanar anymore.?
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Re: Taller resaw fence for Felder FB610
I will recommend extra pressure modules from Aigner if you have rails mounted on your table, or also buy the rails and enjoy the versatility. There's a couple module attachments that look well suited to resaw pressure but I resorted to power feeders before buying them.
On Thu, Dec 5, 2024 at 3:34?PM Tom Trees via <tomgwoodworks= [email protected]> wrote: Presumably you've seen Derek Cohen's fence addition.
Shouldn't have issues with a short extrusion really, its done to keep the stock from pushing away from the fence.
Provided the wheels are aligned, tires are in good shape, and table and/or fence is setup well obviously.
?
To my eyes the tires on the Felder saws look to be very flat, which is problematic and will cause drift issues too,
due to the lack of beam strength from the blade, but that should be pretty evident, as thrust guide rubbing is something to note.
Anyway...
Since the topic suggests one is planning to make use of the extra height of the Felder saw,
it might be worth looking into jigs for keeping the stock against the fence, or whether or not an add on or indeed the extrusion itself might be sufficient
Here's two interesting solutions which just might put that to the test.
?
John TenEyck/Lanciani's pressure board design might be of interest.
Or indeed Steven Woodward's creation
?Or something else i.e
?
Perhaps that might be of interest
All the best
Tom
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference
I think your slider is as low as it probably can be. Simplest solution to your current problem is to just glue boards without any profile/counter profile. I do understand the desire to use such tooling. I enthusiastically bought a hammer dedicated cutter and also have knives for my safety cutter. Used each once and never again. I use dominos if I am contor need help with glueup. Mostly though I just keep the material thick and glue parts as wide as my jointer/Planer can handle. Then do final milling and glue further if needed.
I just rough milled this stock for cabinet panels. It is .2¡± thicker than final thickness. I will be edge gluing without any glue joint profile and then mill to final thickness.
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On Dec 6, 2024, at 2:11?PM, Cornelius via groups.io <Cornelius@...> wrote: ? Hi all sliding table shaper users,
?
I have a question regarding the usual/best/preferred relationship of sliding table height to cast-iron top of a shaper (stand alone, not KF combo).
?
The subject has been mentioned in several posts I searched. I have also watched David Best's informative and comprehensive videos on the subject of building a panel door using a shaper, a profile/counter profile cutter and the tenoning plate, but unfortunately, the subject is still unclear to me.?
?
The basic question is whether the slider is most commonly set up to be perfectly co-planer to the cast iron top or if the slider ought to be raised a tiny bit? Unfortunately, I only have one machine to do long grain profile cuts as well as tenoning work. Here is my situation:
?
I received my F700Z with the slider 0.6 mm higher than the cast iron on the right and 0.3 mm higher on the left of the machine. I attempted to correct this and managed to bring it to within 0.2 mm on both sides. Anything closer seems to bind if I use my eccentric clamps to hold down my work piece even slightly off center on the slider towards the spindle. It appears that the pressure of the clamps bend/twist the sliding table sufficiently to bind my work piece against the cast iron (and this is setting up the clamps with a 7mm spacer in order to not apply full pressure). Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
?
After the adjustment, I left the slider at a height difference of 0.2 mm and it has been working for me? .... mostly.? However, my current problem is when I lock the slider and run pieces the long way. Then I have a slight angle on my cut if the work piece is wider than the available cast iron section in front of the cutterhead and rests, partially, on the slider as well. Again, David Best has explained that this would not have any relevant impact when shaping raised panels (and I agree), but in my case I am trying to make glue joints with a profile cutter in order to to glue up wide boards and even a slight angle will cup my final glue-up.?
?
So, what does everyone do? Do you have the tables co-planer and when you do tenoning work, the Felder tenoning plate will slide smoothly over the cast iron even with no height difference. Even if the clamps are pressing down, close to the cutterhead (above the cast iron table) as in David Best's videos? You don't have any binding? I do not yet own the tenoning plate, but I am considering to buy it if it solves my problems. Or do you somehow shim the cast-iron top when you mill long grain pieces (but this seems difficult to me since any type of shim would slide along with the work piece, in manual or power feed mode).?
?
I hope these questions make sense.
?
Many thanks for everyone's support!
?
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus
|
Re: F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference
Cornelius,?
I used to keep a stack of copy paper nearby and run inboard of the slider if pieces became large enough to interfere. My slider table I believe was about 2 sheets of copy paper normally above?the table, which would coincide with your 0.2mm specification. I found wood moved enough that sometimes I needed none, sometimes perfect, sometimes more. If you can get your joints within 0.1mm, that's practically about the best I can do and the rest is sanding to perfection. I understand your statement?about stacking errors with joint misalignment, but I'm not sure I could ever blame my own work on having enough joints to demonstrate detectable error stacking.
Hi all sliding table shaper users,
?
I have a question regarding the usual/best/preferred relationship of sliding table height to cast-iron top of a shaper (stand alone, not KF combo).
?
The subject has been mentioned in several posts I searched. I have also watched David Best's informative and comprehensive videos on the subject of building a panel door using a shaper, a profile/counter profile cutter and the tenoning plate, but unfortunately, the subject is still unclear to me.?
?
The basic question is whether the slider is most commonly set up to be perfectly co-planer to the cast iron top or if the slider ought to be raised a tiny bit? Unfortunately, I only have one machine to do long grain profile cuts as well as tenoning work. Here is my situation:
?
I received my F700Z with the slider 0.6 mm higher than the cast iron on the right and 0.3 mm higher on the left of the machine. I attempted to correct this and managed to bring it to within 0.2 mm on both sides. Anything closer seems to bind if I use my eccentric clamps to hold down my work piece even slightly off center on the slider towards the spindle. It appears that the pressure of the clamps bend/twist the sliding table sufficiently to bind my work piece against the cast iron (and this is setting up the clamps with a 7mm spacer in order to not apply full pressure). Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
?
After the adjustment, I left the slider at a height difference of 0.2 mm and it has been working for me? .... mostly.? However, my current problem is when I lock the slider and run pieces the long way. Then I have a slight angle on my cut if the work piece is wider than the available cast iron section in front of the cutterhead and rests, partially, on the slider as well. Again, David Best has explained that this would not have any relevant impact when shaping raised panels (and I agree), but in my case I am trying to make glue joints with a profile cutter in order to to glue up wide boards and even a slight angle will cup my final glue-up.?
?
So, what does everyone do? Do you have the tables co-planer and when you do tenoning work, the Felder tenoning plate will slide smoothly over the cast iron even with no height difference. Even if the clamps are pressing down, close to the cutterhead (above the cast iron table) as in David Best's videos? You don't have any binding? I do not yet own the tenoning plate, but I am considering to buy it if it solves my problems. Or do you somehow shim the cast-iron top when you mill long grain pieces (but this seems difficult to me since any type of shim would slide along with the work piece, in manual or power feed mode).?
?
I hope these questions make sense.
?
Many thanks for everyone's support!
?
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference
Hi all sliding table shaper users,
?
I have a question regarding the usual/best/preferred relationship of sliding table height to cast-iron top of a shaper (stand alone, not KF combo).
?
The subject has been mentioned in several posts I searched. I have also watched David Best's informative and comprehensive videos on the subject of building a panel door using a shaper, a profile/counter profile cutter and the tenoning plate, but unfortunately, the subject is still unclear to me.?
?
The basic question is whether the slider is most commonly set up to be perfectly co-planer to the cast iron top or if the slider ought to be raised a tiny bit? Unfortunately, I only have one machine to do long grain profile cuts as well as tenoning work. Here is my situation:
?
I received my F700Z with the slider 0.6 mm higher than the cast iron on the right and 0.3 mm higher on the left of the machine. I attempted to correct this and managed to bring it to within 0.2 mm on both sides. Anything closer seems to bind if I use my eccentric clamps to hold down my work piece even slightly off center on the slider towards the spindle. It appears that the pressure of the clamps bend/twist the sliding table sufficiently to bind my work piece against the cast iron (and this is setting up the clamps with a 7mm spacer in order to not apply full pressure). Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
?
After the adjustment, I left the slider at a height difference of 0.2 mm and it has been working for me? .... mostly.? However, my current problem is when I lock the slider and run pieces the long way. Then I have a slight angle on my cut if the work piece is wider than the available cast iron section in front of the cutterhead and rests, partially, on the slider as well. Again, David Best has explained that this would not have any relevant impact when shaping raised panels (and I agree), but in my case I am trying to make glue joints with a profile cutter in order to to glue up wide boards and even a slight angle will cup my final glue-up.?
?
So, what does everyone do? Do you have the tables co-planer and when you do tenoning work, the Felder tenoning plate will slide smoothly over the cast iron even with no height difference. Even if the clamps are pressing down, close to the cutterhead (above the cast iron table) as in David Best's videos? You don't have any binding? I do not yet own the tenoning plate, but I am considering to buy it if it solves my problems. Or do you somehow shim the cast-iron top when you mill long grain pieces (but this seems difficult to me since any type of shim would slide along with the work piece, in manual or power feed mode).?
?
I hope these questions make sense.
?
Many thanks for everyone's support!
?
Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus
|
Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
Jonathan, I do not think there is a way to calibrate them other than setting the zero position where you want it ( by pressing the Zero button) - at the end of the track or anywhere along it.?
The way I do it is; I move the DRO to the extreme position on the track, zero it out and adjust the stop so it is flush with the a backer board. The next thing is to make a sample cut, measure it and make any necessary adjustments to the stop, if needed.?
I guess that is what you get with a $20 DRO. It is very accurate for me, as I mentioned above, to 0.1mm, which is plenty enough for me and impossible to get by eye.?
Mariusz
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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
Nice set up Mariusz! I have the same SHAHE DRO and wondering if you found a way to calibrate?them other than going to zero.
[Edited Message Follows]
Nothing will come close to what David has, but if someone wants to equip their F&F with a cheap DRO (not very elegant solution, but one that doesn¡¯t require fine machining skills David has); here is my version.?
It is actually pretty accurate, to within 0.1mm
?
The stops are fine, so far no flexing, but it could be even better if they had micro adjustments.? Mariusz   ?
-- Kindest Regards
Jonathan Samways
Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener informaci¨®n privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilizaci¨®n, divulgaci¨®n y/o copia sin autorizaci¨®n est¨¢ prohibida en virtud de la legislaci¨®n vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma v¨ªa y proceda a su destrucci¨®n. This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
Nothing will come close to what David has, but if someone wants to equip their F&F with a cheap DRO (not very elegant solution, but one that doesn¡¯t require fine machining skills David has); here is my version.?
It is actually pretty accurate, to within 0.1mm
?
The stops are fine, so far no flexing, but it could be even better if they had micro adjustments.? Mariusz   ?
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Re: F 250 mortising bit recommendation
I used the birdsmouth bits to do mortises in goncalo alves (dense and hard), and they worked well.
Marlowe McGraw
On Fri, Dec 6, 2024 at 6:44?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: I would not call birdsmouth very slow. I was satisfied with my first door that I did with it. I can share pics and video of both bits cutting and the resulting mortices. On Dec 6, 2024, at 6:45?AM, chris connolly via <connollyack= [email protected]> wrote: ?Thanks for that Imran.? Do you find the birdsmouth bits to be very slow cutting??
Chris?
On Dec 5, 2024, at 12:36?PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
?Hi Chris,
I have used this 3/4¡± bit on WRC with good results on my FD250. Cuts one direction only but faster than my Felder birdsmouth. I explored bits with Greg at Rangate but ended up trying this and so far so good. Being carbide, I assume it would be good on hardwood as well but have not tried yet.
<image2.jpeg> <image3.jpeg> On Dec 5, 2024, at 11:46?AM, chris connolly via <connollyack= [email protected]> wrote: ? Hi, I've been searching old threads for bit recommendations with limited success. I'm ?looking for a bit to cut 5/16 or 3/8 x ?2-2.5'' deep mortises in hardwood. My F 250 is single speed. I've had decent results with 2 flute up and down shear mortising ?bits, not so great results with a 4 flute square end mill and have yet to try a bird's mouth bit. I'm ordering some ?birds mouth bits from rangate ?but wondering if anyone has other bits they like for fast and clean cutting (not necessarily only in these smaller diameter sizes). Thanks for any recommendations. - Chris?
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Re: F 250 mortising bit recommendation
I would not call birdsmouth very slow. I was satisfied with my first door that I did with it. I can share pics and video of both bits cutting and the resulting mortices.
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On Dec 6, 2024, at 6:45?AM, chris connolly via groups.io <connollyack@...> wrote: ? Thanks for that Imran. ?Do you find the birdsmouth bits to be very slow cutting??
Chris?
On Dec 5, 2024, at 12:36?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Chris,
I have used this 3/4¡± bit on WRC with good results on my FD250. Cuts one direction only but faster than my Felder birdsmouth. I explored bits with Greg at Rangate but ended up trying this and so far so good. Being carbide, I assume it would be good on hardwood as well but have not tried yet.
<image2.jpeg> <image3.jpeg>
On Dec 5, 2024, at 11:46?AM, chris connolly via groups.io <connollyack@...> wrote:
? Hi, I've been searching old threads for bit recommendations with limited success. I'm ?looking for a bit to cut 5/16 or 3/8 x ?2-2.5'' deep mortises in hardwood. My F 250 is single speed. I've had decent results with 2 flute up and down shear mortising ?bits, not so great results with a 4 flute square end mill and have yet to try a bird's mouth bit. I'm ordering some ?birds mouth bits from rangate ?but wondering if anyone has other bits they like for fast and clean cutting (not necessarily only in these smaller diameter sizes). Thanks for any recommendations. - Chris?
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Re: F 250 mortising bit recommendation
Thanks for that Imran. ?Do you find the birdsmouth bits to be very slow cutting??
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 5, 2024, at 12:36?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Hi Chris,
I have used this 3/4¡± bit on WRC with good results on my FD250. Cuts one direction only but faster than my Felder birdsmouth. I explored bits with Greg at Rangate but ended up trying this and so far so good. Being carbide, I assume it would be good on hardwood as well but have not tried yet.
<image2.jpeg> <image3.jpeg>
On Dec 5, 2024, at 11:46?AM, chris connolly via groups.io <connollyack@...> wrote:
? Hi, I've been searching old threads for bit recommendations with limited success. I'm ?looking for a bit to cut 5/16 or 3/8 x ?2-2.5'' deep mortises in hardwood. My F 250 is single speed. I've had decent results with 2 flute up and down shear mortising ?bits, not so great results with a 4 flute square end mill and have yet to try a bird's mouth bit. I'm ordering some ?birds mouth bits from rangate ?but wondering if anyone has other bits they like for fast and clean cutting (not necessarily only in these smaller diameter sizes). Thanks for any recommendations. - Chris?
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Re: Alpine advance joinery workclass
The first tooling I'm looking at getting is exactly what you've listed. Have to save up for them.
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Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area
I haven't really moved it since it got it in place. The casters I ?got have a big rubber foot that comes out and locks it in place. It gives my the ability to move it a little but here and there. I don't have any space to store a pallet jack so it is what it is. I'll rent one if I needed to do a lot of movement with it.?
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FOOTMASTER GDR-60S-BLK-1/2 Nylon Wheel and NBR Pad Ratcheting Leveling Caster, 550 lbs, Stem Mounted with 0.5" Mounting Hole Diameter, Black
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Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area
That's what I used but the one that I had was still too tall for my drill and the clearance I had with the narrow pallet jack. I had to run to Lowe's before they closed and bought an Irwin 1/4" quick change one and used that with a? right angle DeWalt adapter I had to get it to fit. Complete pita but one and done at least!
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David P. Best
imran
Leemstradamus