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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig

 
Edited

Nothing will come close to what David has, but if someone wants to equip their F&F with a cheap DRO (not very elegant solution, but one that doesn¡¯t require fine machining skills David has); here is my version.?
It is actually pretty accurate, to within 0.1mm
?
The stops are fine, so far no flexing, but it could be even better if they had micro adjustments.?
Mariusz
?


Re: F 250 mortising bit recommendation

 

I used the birdsmouth bits to do mortises in goncalo alves (dense and hard), and they worked well.

Marlowe McGraw

On Fri, Dec 6, 2024 at 6:44?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
I would not call birdsmouth very slow. I was satisfied with my first door that I did with it. I can share pics and video of both bits cutting and the resulting mortices.

Imran Malik

On Dec 6, 2024, at 6:45?AM, chris connolly via <connollyack=[email protected]> wrote:

?Thanks for that Imran.? Do you find the birdsmouth bits to be very slow cutting??

Chris?



On Dec 5, 2024, at 12:36?PM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:

?Hi Chris,

I have used this 3/4¡± bit on WRC with good results on my FD250. Cuts one direction only but faster than my Felder birdsmouth. I explored bits with Greg at Rangate but ended up trying this and so far so good. Being carbide, I assume it would be good on hardwood as well but have not tried yet.

<image2.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>


Imran Malik

On Dec 5, 2024, at 11:46?AM, chris connolly via <connollyack=[email protected]> wrote:

?
Hi, I've been searching old threads for bit recommendations with limited success. I'm ?looking for a bit to cut 5/16 or 3/8 x ?2-2.5'' deep mortises in hardwood. My F 250 is single speed. I've had decent results with 2 flute up and down shear mortising ?bits, not so great results with a 4 flute square end mill and have yet to try a bird's mouth bit. I'm ordering some ?birds mouth bits from rangate ?but wondering if anyone has other bits they like for fast and clean cutting (not necessarily only in these smaller diameter sizes). Thanks for any recommendations. - Chris?


Re: F 250 mortising bit recommendation

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I would not call birdsmouth very slow. I was satisfied with my first door that I did with it. I can share pics and video of both bits cutting and the resulting mortices.

Imran Malik

On Dec 6, 2024, at 6:45?AM, chris connolly via groups.io <connollyack@...> wrote:

?Thanks for that Imran. ?Do you find the birdsmouth bits to be very slow cutting??

Chris?



On Dec 5, 2024, at 12:36?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Hi Chris,

I have used this 3/4¡± bit on WRC with good results on my FD250. Cuts one direction only but faster than my Felder birdsmouth. I explored bits with Greg at Rangate but ended up trying this and so far so good. Being carbide, I assume it would be good on hardwood as well but have not tried yet.

<image2.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>


Imran Malik

On Dec 5, 2024, at 11:46?AM, chris connolly via groups.io <connollyack@...> wrote:

?
Hi, I've been searching old threads for bit recommendations with limited success. I'm ?looking for a bit to cut 5/16 or 3/8 x ?2-2.5'' deep mortises in hardwood. My F 250 is single speed. I've had decent results with 2 flute up and down shear mortising ?bits, not so great results with a 4 flute square end mill and have yet to try a bird's mouth bit. I'm ordering some ?birds mouth bits from rangate ?but wondering if anyone has other bits they like for fast and clean cutting (not necessarily only in these smaller diameter sizes). Thanks for any recommendations. - Chris?


Re: F 250 mortising bit recommendation

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks for that Imran. ?Do you find the birdsmouth bits to be very slow cutting??

Chris?



On Dec 5, 2024, at 12:36?PM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Hi Chris,

I have used this 3/4¡± bit on WRC with good results on my FD250. Cuts one direction only but faster than my Felder birdsmouth. I explored bits with Greg at Rangate but ended up trying this and so far so good. Being carbide, I assume it would be good on hardwood as well but have not tried yet.

<image2.jpeg>
<image3.jpeg>


Imran Malik

On Dec 5, 2024, at 11:46?AM, chris connolly via groups.io <connollyack@...> wrote:

?
Hi, I've been searching old threads for bit recommendations with limited success. I'm ?looking for a bit to cut 5/16 or 3/8 x ?2-2.5'' deep mortises in hardwood. My F 250 is single speed. I've had decent results with 2 flute up and down shear mortising ?bits, not so great results with a 4 flute square end mill and have yet to try a bird's mouth bit. I'm ordering some ?birds mouth bits from rangate ?but wondering if anyone has other bits they like for fast and clean cutting (not necessarily only in these smaller diameter sizes). Thanks for any recommendations. - Chris?


Re: Alpine advance joinery workclass

 

The first tooling I'm looking at getting is exactly what you've listed. Have to save up for them.


Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area

 

I haven't really moved it since it got it in place. The casters I ?got have a big rubber foot that comes out and locks it in place. It gives my the ability to move it a little but here and there. I don't have any space to store a pallet jack so it is what it is. I'll rent one if I needed to do a lot of movement with it.?
?
FOOTMASTER GDR-60S-BLK-1/2 Nylon Wheel and NBR Pad Ratcheting Leveling Caster, 550 lbs, Stem Mounted with 0.5" Mounting Hole Diameter, Black
?


Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area

 

That's what I used but the one that I had was still too tall for my drill and the clearance I had with the narrow pallet jack. I had to run to Lowe's before they closed and bought an Irwin 1/4" quick change one and used that with a? right angle DeWalt adapter I had to get it to fit. Complete pita but one and done at least!


Re: Forklift / Riggers in the Seattle area

 

My pleasure, is a standing offer ?.


Re: Taller resaw fence for Felder FB610

 

Presumably you've seen Derek Cohen's fence addition.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ResawingOnTheBandsaw.html
Shouldn't have issues with a short extrusion really, its done to keep the stock from pushing away from the fence.
Provided the wheels are aligned, tires are in good shape, and table and/or fence is setup well obviously.
?
To my eyes the tires on the Felder saws look to be very flat, which is problematic and will cause drift issues too,
due to the lack of beam strength from the blade, but that should be pretty evident, as thrust guide rubbing is something to note.
Anyway...
Since the topic suggests one is planning to make use of the extra height of the Felder saw,
it might be worth looking into jigs for keeping the stock against the fence, or whether or not an add on or indeed the extrusion itself might be sufficient
Here's two interesting solutions which just might put that to the test.
?
John TenEyck/Lanciani's pressure board design might be of interest.
Or indeed Steven Woodward's creation
?Or something else i.e
?
Perhaps that might be of interest
All the best
Tom


Taller resaw fence for Felder FB610

 

I upgraded from my Hammer N4400 to get more resaw capacity (12¡±->16¡±). ?The fence that comes with the FB610 is ok but pretty short. What are the Fine Felder Folks here using for a better resaw setup?


Re: F 250 mortising bit recommendation

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Chris,

I have used this 3/4¡± bit on WRC with good results on my FD250. Cuts one direction only but faster than my Felder birdsmouth. I explored bits with Greg at Rangate but ended up trying this and so far so good. Being carbide, I assume it would be good on hardwood as well but have not tried yet.

image2.jpegimage3.jpeg

Imran Malik

On Dec 5, 2024, at 11:46?AM, chris connolly via groups.io <connollyack@...> wrote:

?
Hi, I've been searching old threads for bit recommendations with limited success. I'm ?looking for a bit to cut 5/16 or 3/8 x ?2-2.5'' deep mortises in hardwood. My F 250 is single speed. I've had decent results with 2 flute up and down shear mortising ?bits, not so great results with a 4 flute square end mill and have yet to try a bird's mouth bit. I'm ordering some ?birds mouth bits from rangate ?but wondering if anyone has other bits they like for fast and clean cutting (not necessarily only in these smaller diameter sizes). Thanks for any recommendations. - Chris?


F 250 mortising bit recommendation

 

Hi, I've been searching old threads for bit recommendations with limited success. I'm ?looking for a bit to cut 5/16 or 3/8 x ?2-2.5'' deep mortises in hardwood. My F 250 is single speed. I've had decent results with 2 flute up and down shear mortising ?bits, not so great results with a 4 flute square end mill and have yet to try a bird's mouth bit. I'm ordering some ?birds mouth bits from rangate ?but wondering if anyone has other bits they like for fast and clean cutting (not necessarily only in these smaller diameter sizes). Thanks for any recommendations. - Chris?


Re: Felder FD250

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Tom,

I can confirm that you can add?chisel mortising and dowel boring because I did that on my 2nd hand FD250. It is 2011, 2.2KW, 3Ph single speed machine so not sure if things have changed over the years.

Surprisingly, I received a set of pictures from the Felder technician (not official Felder documentation) that made the install easy. It had been a few yrs now but don¡¯t recall any issues.

Imran Malik

On Dec 5, 2024, at 9:15?AM, Tom Gensmer via groups.io <tom@...> wrote:

?
Hi Andy,?
?
Yes, the mechanical DRO I mentioned is the counter for the system hand wheel. Once I got it calibrated it's been very precise.?
?
For single phase, yes there is a variable speed option. I try to go three phase whenever possible, and am skeptical about variable speed anything, but yes there is definitely an option.?
?
As David Best points out, the MultiRouter is a great machine for furniture work, but you're limited to smaller pieces (the motor is fixed, table moves), and you're limited to 1/2" and smaller shank tooling, whereas the FD-250 (and other horizontal mortisers) will accept up to 20mm diameter shanks.?
?
As Joe points out, the Rangate dowel bits are awesome. Carbide-tipped and oversized by 0.1mm, they are a perfect complement to their Rot-Resist dowels. Now that I've calibrated the 16mm dowel boring template to the cast iron table, it's a pretty simple task to use the cast iron block and the dowel bar to bore properly indexed dowel holes, so assembly is a breeze.?
?
It's important to note that the "chisel mortising" and "dowel boring" options are ostensibly "Factory-only" options. I've been told that you can order the parts after the fact, but I wouldn't want to spend the time trying to retrofit them. My thought process was that I was better off just ordering a fully tricked-out machine, that way I wouldn't find myself wanting for features at a later time, and this way the machine would have broader appeal if/when I were to eventually sell it.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: Felder FD250

 

Hey Tom

I¡¯m leaning towards ordering a fully ¡°tricked out¡± machine for the reasons you mentioned. It seems to make the most sense.?

As for smaller furniture pieces I use the shaper origin to handle those.?

The fd250 would be for larger work and it does seem to fit the bill. While it may not be a quick as a dedicated vertical chisel mortiser is can dowel and slot mortise as well.? With my limited space I like to have tools that can serve multiple purposes.?

The system handwheel works well for my planer and I happen to have an extra so I should be able to just pop it on when the machine arrives and calibrate it.?

Thanks to everyone for your insight. Much appreciated.?

Andy.?

On Thu, Dec 5, 2024 at 9:15?AM Tom Gensmer via <tom=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Andy,?
?
Yes, the mechanical DRO I mentioned is the counter for the system hand wheel. Once I got it calibrated it's been very precise.?
?
For single phase, yes there is a variable speed option. I try to go three phase whenever possible, and am skeptical about variable speed anything, but yes there is definitely an option.?
?
As David Best points out, the MultiRouter is a great machine for furniture work, but you're limited to smaller pieces (the motor is fixed, table moves), and you're limited to 1/2" and smaller shank tooling, whereas the FD-250 (and other horizontal mortisers) will accept up to 20mm diameter shanks.?
?
As Joe points out, the Rangate dowel bits are awesome. Carbide-tipped and oversized by 0.1mm, they are a perfect complement to their Rot-Resist dowels. Now that I've calibrated the 16mm dowel boring template to the cast iron table, it's a pretty simple task to use the cast iron block and the dowel bar to bore properly indexed dowel holes, so assembly is a breeze.?
?
It's important to note that the "chisel mortising" and "dowel boring" options are ostensibly "Factory-only" options. I've been told that you can order the parts after the fact, but I wouldn't want to spend the time trying to retrofit them. My thought process was that I was better off just ordering a fully tricked-out machine, that way I wouldn't find myself wanting for features at a later time, and this way the machine would have broader appeal if/when I were to eventually sell it.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: Felder FD250

 

Hi Andy,?
?
Yes, the mechanical DRO I mentioned is the counter for the system hand wheel. Once I got it calibrated it's been very precise.?
?
For single phase, yes there is a variable speed option. I try to go three phase whenever possible, and am skeptical about variable speed anything, but yes there is definitely an option.?
?
As David Best points out, the MultiRouter is a great machine for furniture work, but you're limited to smaller pieces (the motor is fixed, table moves), and you're limited to 1/2" and smaller shank tooling, whereas the FD-250 (and other horizontal mortisers) will accept up to 20mm diameter shanks.?
?
As Joe points out, the Rangate dowel bits are awesome. Carbide-tipped and oversized by 0.1mm, they are a perfect complement to their Rot-Resist dowels. Now that I've calibrated the 16mm dowel boring template to the cast iron table, it's a pretty simple task to use the cast iron block and the dowel bar to bore properly indexed dowel holes, so assembly is a breeze.?
?
It's important to note that the "chisel mortising" and "dowel boring" options are ostensibly "Factory-only" options. I've been told that you can order the parts after the fact, but I wouldn't want to spend the time trying to retrofit them. My thought process was that I was better off just ordering a fully tricked-out machine, that way I wouldn't find myself wanting for features at a later time, and this way the machine would have broader appeal if/when I were to eventually sell it.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: Felder FD250

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I love the custom table with extensions ? Amazing idea and execution. ?I will look into the dro

Alan Jones
Owner, HiFi Buys
770.931.0606
3157 Peachtree Rd NE | Atlanta, GA 30305
hifibuys.com

Our highest goal at HiFi Buys is to create a customer experience that is outstanding; so outstanding, in fact, that you want to tell others. Our customers are our best ambassadors and your reviews are vitally important to our growth and longevity. So if you are so inclined, we¡¯d love if you could tell your friends, write a review and post your story on social media so others can enjoy the same great experience that you have. Thank you!


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...>
Sent: Wednesday, December 4, 2024 9:03:02 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Felder FD250
?
I also prefer the Muiltirouter for general joinery applications, but the FD250 is probably a better choice if you¡¯re building big heavy passage doors (which I do not). Adding a DRO in all three axis on the Multirouter really improves its usefulness as a general purpose mortising machine. ?And??has made some nice improvements to the Multirouter. ?. ?


All Photos - 1 of 1 (15).jpeg

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best



On Dec 4, 2024, at 11:41?AM, Alan Jones via groups.io <ajones@...> wrote:

I love my JPS multi router

On Wed, Dec 4, 2024 at 1:36?PM Brett Wissel via <Brettwissel=[email protected]> wrote:
Andy,?

We never settled on a permanent location in the shop, so it's handy that we kept the lead cord long and roll it to the projects, esp. when large and already sitting on a lift cart. Otherwise it sits away in a corner.?

It's a great tool for what it is, if you can afford it, buy it. My only alternative to consider would be a vertical style machine that still had enough capacity to be versatile, which I haven't seen exist outside of very expensive tools in metal machine shops, thus irrelevant.

To add applications - I enjoy the free-handed mortising options for clearing large areas or fitting new parts to as-built joints and old work.

On Wed, Dec 4, 2024 at 12:05?PM Andy via <andy.raynor08=[email protected]> wrote:
Joe

You hit on some use cases I was thinking of that this machine seems to address. In particular euro door construction.?

I used the Hoffmann at Joes shop. It¡¯s awesome for sure.?

I¡¯ll email you separately regarding your f stop solution. Thank you for taking the time to reply ?

On Wed, Dec 4, 2024 at 11:42?AM bacchus6015 via <joeinno=[email protected]> wrote:
Andy,

I used the FD250 for door construction.

I added pneumatic clamps and a height DRO to make it easier and faster to use.

I also moved the control handle utilizing a custom bracket that Brian Lamb helped me design.? The bracket allowed the handle to not interfere with the right hand clamp riser. ?

For doweling the square chisel mortising feed attachment increases accuracy.? I tried square chisel mortising a few times but I think there are better ways than the FD250 to do those. ?

For double rows of dowels the height DRO was very useful.

The table on the FD250 is not wide enough to do mirror image dowels so doing mirror image dowel holes requires an offset from one side of the table to other to avoid flipping workpieces and any height inaccuracies that could cause. ?

I used the FD250 for mortising for Euro hardware in doors and windows.? The photo shows a two stage mortise.? The DRO made setting the height of the cutter easy.? I would measure off the top of the bit with a height gage then set the height of the bit to the center of the workpiece or whatever offset was necessary.

I used the fence on the f-rail of the table to do mirror image doweling.? The dowel templates were not referenced off center so deepening on what template I was using the center changed which the sliding miter gage could accommodate.? I found a good way to to make a game for mirror image doweling was to bore all the way through a block of wood then it could be flipped around to set the miter gage on the opposite end of the table.? I also made little f-rail stops to reference the miter gage so I could flip back and forth while doweling. ?

The f-rails and a bunch of extension tables made working on assembled doors and sash much easier. ?

The FD250 is a lot of bang for the buck.? But a mortising table like the Hoffman (sp?) that Joe Calhoon has is much faster.? There are other mortisers available for window and door construction but they all started around $20k.?

I saw a mortiser at LIGNA that solved most of the shortcomings of the FD250 but it was not available in the US.? Hess is the name. ???


Joe?



<IMG_8310.jpeg>

<IMG_8321.jpeg>


<DSCF3436.jpeg>




<IMG_6454.jpeg>


<IMG_8319.jpeg>

On Dec 4, 2024, at 7:47?AM, Andy via <andy.raynor08=[email protected]> wrote:

I¡¯m interested in this machine and wanted to get user feedback.? As it stands now I like that this machine can dowel, slot mortise and chisel mortise.? It seems particularly useful for door construction in a smaller shop.?

What are some of the drawbacks?? Anything I should consider?? Thanks?
?
Andy?







--
Brett Wissel
Saint Louis Restoration
1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd)
St Louis, MO 63110

314.772.2167
brett@...




--
Alan Jones
Owner, HiFi Buys

Our highest goal at HiFi Buys is to create a customer experience that is outstanding; so outstanding, in fact, that you want to tell others. Our customers are our best ambassadors and your reviews are vitally important to our growth and longevity. So if you are so inclined, we¡¯d love if you could tell your friends, write a review and post your story on social media so others can enjoy the same great experience that you have. Thank you!

???


Re: Feeding Material left to right on shaper

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Mariusz,

I understood that but did not think of zooming in. Here is the answer. The part is thicker than the clamp.

image0.jpeg

Imran Malik

On Dec 5, 2024, at 3:01?AM, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:

?
Imran, you might have missed that Joe had mentioned that the panels are two sided and in this case the cutter is on the bottom. The Aigner touches and rides along the fence, but it does not touch the cast iron top ?- the block in front and the piece itself keep it above the table, so the cutter will not chew into it.?

I want to thank you for asking this question and everyone who responded- this is amazingly educational!!!!
?
Mariusz


Re: Feeding Material left to right on shaper

 

Imran, you might have missed that Joe had mentioned that the panels are two sided and in this case the cutter is on the bottom. The Aigner touches and rides along the fence, but it does not touch the cast iron top ?- the block in front and the piece itself keep it above the table, so the cutter will not chew into it.?

I want to thank you for asking this question and everyone who responded- this is amazingly educational!!!!
?
Mariusz


Re: Feeding Material left to right on shaper

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the details and the pics. That knife projection is crazy, did not think anything like that would be possible or safe.

I am kind of surprised with the use of Aigner clamping device in this case. I thought it only worked with stopped runs so that the cutter does not run into the holder. The clamping device is next to the fence and the entire length is being milled (at least on the outer edge). How come the cutter does not hit the clamping parts?

Imran Malik

On Dec 4, 2024, at 10:15?PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:

?Here are more examples of dealing with small panels.
I rarely make sleds for running these as it¡¯s time consuming. The first pictures are small 7¡±X7¡± panels with deep cuts for a pair of 10¡¯ high southwest style interior doors. 50 panels per door! Custom corrugated knife with the shaft tilted to reduce knife projection. Normally would use the sliding table for this but with the shaft tilted would have been sketchy dangerous! The sled rode against the Aigner fence, top piece referenced with dowels. Sandpaper glued to the top piece and feeder pressure held it all together. Face up as always with these to gain the stability of the flat 7¡± X 7¡± part down. This was very tedious running 100 panels like this but we got it done safely.

The second 2 pictures show using the Aigner device to run the shorter length of the panel after the longer length had been done using the power feed. These are door panels raised both sides. The cutter is a 220mm diameter under the table. If these were single sided I would have run cutter on top.
I could have spent time ?making a sled for these but the Aigner device made it quick and safe.





<IMG_0034.jpeg>
<IMG_0035.jpeg>
<IMG_9661.jpeg>
<IMG_9660.jpeg>


Re: Feeding Material left to right on shaper

 

Here are more examples of dealing with small panels.
I rarely make sleds for running these as it¡¯s time consuming. The first pictures are small 7¡±X7¡± panels with deep cuts for a pair of 10¡¯ high southwest style interior doors. 50 panels per door! Custom corrugated knife with the shaft tilted to reduce knife projection. Normally would use the sliding table for this but with the shaft tilted would have been sketchy dangerous! The sled rode against the Aigner fence, top piece referenced with dowels. Sandpaper glued to the top piece and feeder pressure held it all together. Face up as always with these to gain the stability of the flat 7¡± X 7¡± part down. This was very tedious running 100 panels like this but we got it done safely.

The second 2 pictures show using the Aigner device to run the shorter length of the panel after the longer length had been done using the power feed. These are door panels raised both sides. The cutter is a 220mm diameter under the table. If these were single sided I would have run cutter on top.
I could have spent time making a sled for these but the Aigner device made it quick and safe.