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Re: F700Z slider to cast-iron height difference

 

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Here are my suggestions.

Your sliding table should be adjusted to be the same distance above the cast iron top at both ends, and be coplanar to the cast iron top. ?It should also maintain its coplanar relationship to the cast iron top as it moves forward and backward. ?I have the sliding table on my Proifil 45 shaper set 0.15mm above the cast iron top, and it stays in that position and coplanar to the cast iron to throughout the center 80 percent of the travel. ?You are unlikely to get the slider to maintain this level of alignment in the first and last 10 percent of its travel - don¡¯t even try. ?But it sounds like your sliding table could use some alignment attention. ?

You mentioned that your clamps distort the sliding table extrusion. ?I would recommend using less clamping force, so if you are using pneumatic clamps, lower the air pressure. ?

For counter-profiling operations, I use the??if the material is narrow enough to not spill over the leading edge. ?This plate is a very rigid platform that can be set up to extend the support of the material across the cast iron top and close to the cutter or hood fence. ?This particular tenoning plate is rigid enough that you can clamp the material to it even over the cast iron top as shown below:

49157852372_bf8e9b5084_c.jpeg

If the material is too wide to use the Felder tenoning plate, then I use a sled as described below.

I have made a sled that can be used to level the surface between the shaper fence and the sliding table. It is a sheet of phenolic coated baltic birch plywood the covers the entire surface area and has spacers on the back side where it extends over the cast iron top. ?The phenolic coating gives it a slick surface, so the sled can be kept stationary and the material sent through the cutter with a power feeder. ?A plywood panel with plastic laminate or other slick surface preparation would be just as good. ? It attaches to the sliding table just like the tenoning plate using flat-head recessed screws into T-nuts in the slider. ?

This sled performs like a super wide tenoning plate and can be used in two modes. ?A) The sliding table can be locked in position and the power feeder used to move the material through the cutter, or B) the slider can be used to move the sled and material secured to it through the cutter. ?Either way, the top surface of the sled is coplanar to the top surface of the sliding table (although elevated) and because of the spader/runners on the underside of the sled, it does not tilt or sag at the cutter. ?I use an adhesive-backed foil tape as the spacers on the back side of the sled above the cast iron top that is 0.005¡± thick. ?It¡¯s slick enough that it allows the sled to move along the cast iron top even with a pressure module pushing down from above. ?It does need to be replaced occasionally if the leading edge of the cast iron top catches it.

Hope this helps.

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best



On Dec 6, 2024, at 11:11?AM, Cornelius via groups.io <Cornelius@...> wrote:

Hi all sliding table shaper users,
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I have a question regarding the usual/best/preferred relationship of sliding table height to cast-iron top of a shaper (stand alone, not KF combo).
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The subject has been mentioned in several posts I searched. I have also watched David Best's informative and comprehensive videos on the subject of building a panel door using a shaper, a profile/counter profile cutter and the tenoning plate, but unfortunately, the subject is still unclear to me.?
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The basic question is whether the slider is most commonly set up to be perfectly co-planer to the cast iron top or if the slider ought to be raised a tiny bit? Unfortunately, I only have one machine to do long grain profile cuts as well as tenoning work. Here is my situation:
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I received my F700Z with the slider 0.6 mm higher than the cast iron on the right and 0.3 mm higher on the left of the machine. I attempted to correct this and managed to bring it to within 0.2 mm on both sides. Anything closer seems to bind if I use my eccentric clamps to hold down my work piece even slightly off center on the slider towards the spindle. It appears that the pressure of the clamps bend/twist the sliding table sufficiently to bind my work piece against the cast iron (and this is setting up the clamps with a 7mm spacer in order to not apply full pressure). Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
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After the adjustment, I left the slider at a height difference of 0.2 mm and it has been working for me? .... mostly.? However, my current problem is when I lock the slider and run pieces the long way. Then I have a slight angle on my cut if the work piece is wider than the available cast iron section in front of the cutterhead and rests, partially, on the slider as well. Again, David Best has explained that this would not have any relevant impact when shaping raised panels (and I agree), but in my case I am trying to make glue joints with a profile cutter in order to to glue up wide boards and even a slight angle will cup my final glue-up.?
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So, what does everyone do? Do you have the tables co-planer and when you do tenoning work, the Felder tenoning plate will slide smoothly over the cast iron even with no height difference. Even if the clamps are pressing down, close to the cutterhead (above the cast iron table) as in David Best's videos? You don't have any binding? I do not yet own the tenoning plate, but I am considering to buy it if it solves my problems. Or do you somehow shim the cast-iron top when you mill long grain pieces (but this seems difficult to me since any type of shim would slide along with the work piece, in manual or power feed mode).?
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I hope these questions make sense.
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Many thanks for everyone's support!
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Cornelius Schultze-Kraft
Cyprus
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