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Advice about spraying unit for light metals on slider

 

Does anyone have experience with a slider that has the optional spraying unit for cutting light metals?? I'm planning to buy a slider at the end of this year, and am trying to decide if I should get a K700S with that option, as I do an odd array of one-off fabrication, and the ability to cut aluminum sheet could be helpful.? My main hesitation is whether the sprayer is really only useful to enable a saw for consistent cutting of aluminum, but not so helpful if one is regularly wanting to switch between wood and aluminum.? If it takes me hours to switch materials due to the need for cleaning things up, I won't bother with the sprayer.
Re: New Owner of K700S

 

I bought a narrow one from Crown. After looking at online options, prices and shipping I found an add for Crown. A quick call to the number got me a call back from my local rep. He was able top get me a new 48" narrow Crown for 500.00 delivered to my shop. Made in the USA with a service and parts warehouse 3 hours from my house. I use it for many jobs in? the shop like moving my bench ect. It was very competitively priced the rep delivered it himself, I figure if it good enough for Costco it should do me well!
--
Mark Foster
Re: OT: What totally unexpected things you have found in the shop

 

Unexpected thing occurred years back designing/handcrafting a front door for a client; I was milling stock on jointer and saw what looked like a drop of blood on wood after flipping, but then realized it was a hole, then noticed a few woodchuck bees ? flying in shop. I’d stored wood outside under cover and didn’t foresee this coming but I remedied it with Dutchman’s and the door being a one off a bit eccentric it just adds to the patina, (no issues with client having one Dutchman on stile……. So a happy ending to what could have been a total redo as I had no more wine tank wood. Please see Photos attached below. Cheers

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Re: File /General Information/BGHM_Shaper Training English.pdf uploaded #file-notice

 

Wow! At first glance it looks like a wealth of good information. It's always good to be reminded how to use these machines safely. I've a few "pucker" moments that I would like to avoid. This document will be helpful. Thank you for sharing.
Kerry
--
Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
www.gothamwoodworks.com
File /General Information/BGHM_Shaper Training English.pdf uploaded #file-notice

Group Notification
 

The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group.

By: David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...>

Description:
I added the shaper section from the BGHM training document. Dave Davies
Re: New Owner of K700S

 

I found a used one locally, paid $100 for it, but then had to rebuild the seals on the lift cyliinder, not sure it was worth the savings to go used. Mine is a BT Lift, think they are made in Europe, parts are readily available. Any reputable brand will be good, Crown, Jet and many others. You will need a narrow unit, mine is 20.5" x 48". You can pick up anything with it, but being narrow, you do need to balance the item you are trying to lift.

When I originally got my saw back in 2001, the driver used a lift gate and his pallet jack to get it off the truck and into my garage at the time. Then I rented a narrow pallet jack and got it down off the pallet and moved from the garage into the shop. I didn't buy my own pallet jack until about 15 years ago after moving several times... should have done it right at the beginning.

Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
lambtoolworks.com


On Tuesday, October 29, 2024 at 08:45:26 AM MST, Denno <dennis@...> wrote:


Many thanks Brian, I think I may go ahead and buy one. I know it will come in handy around the shop for other things as well.
Did you go with a specific brand and were you happy with its performance?
I have read that I will need the narrow version. Do you know if the narrow version would also move the pallet after it is unloaded by the saw delivery driver?
I have a very long driveway and am wondering if I can talk/tip the driver into 'palleting' it into my garage or if I am better off having the above pallet jack ready and waiting at the street?
?
Many thanks
Dennis
Re: New Owner of K700S

 

Many thanks Brian, I think I may go ahead and buy one. I know it will come in handy around the shop for other things as well.
Did you go with a specific brand and were you happy with its performance?
I have read that I will need the narrow version. Do you know if the narrow version would also move the pallet after it is unloaded by the saw delivery driver?
I have a very long driveway and am wondering if I can talk/tip the driver into 'palleting' it into my garage or if I am better off having the above pallet jack ready and waiting at the street?
?
Many thanks
Dennis
Re: How do I make this molding

 

Like Patrick said, do it in two pieces, heck even if it were stained, you could still do it in two by first ripping the piece to be used in two. If the saw kerfs do indeed go full depth, or even close to it, i would simply do the dado cuts for the dentil part, then glue the pieces together before making the kerf cuts.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
Re: New to me RL200

 

Thanks for your insight Peter. It is working very well, & everything seems to check out, so i guess i'll enjoy the benefit of the extra warmth over the winter, then see how it goes in the summer. :)
?
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
Re: How do I make this molding

 

Hey Imran,

Will the moulding be painted like the example? Also, do you have a closer photo??

If the final moulding will be painted, then i would do it in two pieces. The front dentil moulding would be one piece. This allows you to run through a dado and achieve the squared?profile in one shot. The second piece is simple flat stock that appears to be taller than the dentil moulding. Once painted they will appear as one moulding. As for the small groove separating the dentil pieces, can you see how deep it is? If it is just a simple shadow line, then you can make a nonthrough?cut at the table saw/radial arm saw. If that skinny groove goes full depth, then i suppose you are gluing a ton of separate dentil pieces with a spacer. This seems like a PITA. I just did a similar dentil moulding for an exterior door and i am interested in how the pros approach it. I did all my cuts with a dado stack at my oliver 232. I made it out of one solid piece of sapele, and this ended up requiring a decent amount of cleanup in very tight nooks n crannies. In hindsight, i would have chopped the moulding up into many different pieces in order to make sanding much much easier. I dont?appreciate the grain continuity as much as i thought i would.?

Patrick

On Tue, Oct 29, 2024 at 10:19?AM jontathan samways via <jonathansamways=[email protected]> wrote:

Imran , I presume you didn’t have CNC.
I don’t and this is how I would attack it …..first shape the length of moulding to required shape. I would then make a jig for the router, you would need to cut in from 2 directions to get rid of the round shape of the router cutter. Finish the inside of the cut/hole with chisel. Last job is the cut the division…….These type of moulding are fun especially if you see the internal and external miters and want all the segments the same size. Always start fitting with a full segment on the external mitres and hope the external mitre works out ok

Kindest Regards

Jonathan Samways

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On Tue, 29 Oct 2024 at 14:34, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
I know how to achieve everything but the shallow groove between notches. Any ideas?

image0.jpeg

Imran Malik
Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s

 

Ok, so if you're talking face frames, then do as Mac suggests (& i stated in my other post). Rip over size and dress. I will assume your material is 4/4? Rip first, dress second. You can also rough cut material into shorter lengths, cutting your longest lengths from the straightest pieces. This of course will be more time consuming, but may be necessary if you material is less than ideal in its straightness. The problem you may run into depending on the species, and how it has been dried, is the stresses in the board might result in very bent pieces after ripping them down in size. This can vary from one board to another, and from one batch to another. Based on how much each board moves, you might need to make a wider rip, so you can get a straight edge on the jointer. Next joint the face, then the edge of each board. They are now ready to run through the thickness planer to get them perfectly parallel in width and thickness and exactly to the required size. Being face frames, some amount of bowing might be acceptable, in which case, you might be better off dressing all the material in the longest lengths possible, and then cutting to the required lengths. Remember, always cut your longest lengths first!!!
?
Hope this helps.
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
Re: New Owner of K700S

 

Hey Dennis:
?
Just a few comments/thoughts as relatively recently went through the same process:
?
1.? Do invest in a narrow pallet jack as it will make life easier when just moving the main and slider arm shipping crates around the shop, and when taking the slider off the crate.? Buy or borrow one.
?
2.? Keep it simple and don't overthink (like I did) getting the slider off the pallet - build a ramp and use the pallet jack to roll it down.? I did this by myself and was much easier than expected.? Moving the main body of the saw? ? ? around is easy with the pallet jack but becomes VERY tricky and will lean once the slider arm is attached so get the body in its the final location otherwise it will be a PITA to move once the arm is installed.??
?
3.? I have yet to purchase the Lamb Tool and Mac's Clamps as wanted to learn the basics and get used to the saw itself before introducing other appliances and learning curves.? Am close though ;).
?
4.? I will be making the FF jig on my own and feel it is a requirement for a slider.
?
5.? Do think about getting the saw commissioned by Felder - I eventually did for all my equipment and it proved worthwhile to get the equipment dialed in.
?
6.? You will need good clamps and finally pulled the trigger on the new Harvey clamps.? The ones by Felder IMHO are bulky and not as user friendly.
?
Kamal Patel
?
Re: How do I make this molding

 

Imran , I presume you didn’t have CNC.
I don’t and this is how I would attack it …..first shape the length of moulding to required shape. I would then make a jig for the router, you would need to cut in from 2 directions to get rid of the round shape of the router cutter. Finish the inside of the cut/hole with chisel. Last job is the cut the division…….These type of moulding are fun especially if you see the internal and external miters and want all the segments the same size. Always start fitting with a full segment on the external mitres and hope the external mitre works out ok

Kindest Regards

Jonathan Samways

Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción.

This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.



On Tue, 29 Oct 2024 at 14:34, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
I know how to achieve everything but the shallow groove between notches. Any ideas?

image0.jpeg

Imran Malik
Re: Bowmouldmaster Install Issue

 

开云体育

First use of BMM. Much needed shaper insert for 150 mm cutterheads.

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Imran Malik

On Oct 27, 2024, at 10:53?PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
Done!

<image0.jpeg>

Imran Malik

On Oct 27, 2024, at 10:34?AM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Hi David,

Thanks for the reference. It never fails, I looked through the index (obviously not carefully enough) and the section 7 in survival guide before asking the question. Completely missed the installation provided in Section 10 ??♂?

The great survival guide has all the answers if you are smart enough to look carefully.

I will report if the webbing is any different than survival guide on my 2002 KF700.

Imran Malik

On Oct 27, 2024, at 10:11?AM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:

?Imran - from page 226 in the Survival Guide - ?this would be for ?KF700, but the F700 is similar. ?Trunion bolts only exist on pre-X-Roll type machines which I believe is what you have. ?Check the webbing positions on the underside of the cast iron top before drilling - you don’t want to drill into the webs :

<BowmouldMaster.jpg>

If you plan on using tooling with the BowmouldMaster in conjunction with the sliding table and a crosscut fence, then I would not recommend rotating the template. ?Better to drill two sets if necessary to get the full position flexibility of the hood. ?I often use the BowmouldMaster with counter-profile tooling and a crosscut fence because the dust extraction is so much better with that hood. ?

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best



On Oct 27, 2024, at 6:54?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Thanks Teboma. Rotating is definitely an option. I should have mentioned that I eyeballed it but my OCD, won’t allow it.

Hi Tom, Thanks for sharing your experience. By omission, I assume you have not discovered any issues. If something came up I could do another set towards the front.

Imran Malik

On Oct 27, 2024, at 8:14?AM, Tom Gensmer via groups.io <tom@...> wrote:

?
Hi Imran,?
?
I had a similar issue when drilling for the 220mm Bowmould on my TF-130. As Teboma suggests, the easiest solution is to simply rotate the template to avoid existing obstructions.?
?
In my case, the limiting factor was the large opening in the table, which precluded rotating the template, so I just shifted it back enough to clear the opening.?
?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s

 

Thank you for the replies...John and Imran, great suggestions and simple and should do the trick!? Am going to try this method along with the BS or rough cut on the slider and then finishing on the JP.
?
?
Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s

 

I use the same method as Imran.
John love you Gizmo! thanks for sharing.

On Tue, 29 Oct 2024 at 12:33, DanielD via <dan=[email protected]> wrote:
Hullo all- very informative thread, thanks to all the contributors! I learn a lot here.
I recall one member posting that they precisely cut a square of MDF, set it against the left fence, and now you have a registration surface for ripping narrower pieces. (Can clamp the mdf to the outrigger so it doesn’t shift). I made one of 3/4”, 500mm square, so I can use the flip stop to set rip width by adding 500. Works really well and as long as the two ‘good’ sides touch nothing else, has stayed true for a lot of use. Costs nothing :-)
Cheers
--
Daniel Day
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada



--
Kindest Regards

Jonathan Samways

Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción.

This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.
How do I make this molding

 

开云体育

I know how to achieve everything but the shallow groove between notches. Any ideas?

image0.jpeg

Imran Malik
Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s

 

Hullo all- very informative thread, thanks to all the contributors! I learn a lot here.
I recall one member posting that they precisely cut a square of MDF, set it against the left fence, and now you have a registration surface for ripping narrower pieces. (Can clamp the mdf to the outrigger so it doesn’t shift). I made one of 3/4”, 500mm square, so I can use the flip stop to set rip width by adding 500. Works really well and as long as the two ‘good’ sides touch nothing else, has stayed true for a lot of use. Costs nothing :-)
Cheers
--
Daniel Day
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Re: New to me RL200

 
Edited

Hi all,
?
I recently got second hand RL200 too and yes, it warms up a bit, but probably like you Bryce, here in the UK we are heading for winter months, so it will be a good workshop heater ?
It's a good question, how much is too much….
?I suppose, might ask the previous owner if he noticed that too.?
?
Peter
Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s

 

开云体育

For Lucky’s overhang method, I just use a block of wood with a pencil mark indicating the cut line. Push block against end of the slider and at least cover the pencil line with material being cut. Quick and easy.

I also installed an overhead laser to assist with the first rip on rough lumber. It used to be overhead on my KF700 and worked great but it is on the wall perpendicular to the saw now for my K975. It is not in line so it casts an oblique line. This means it only works if it is calibrated with same thickness as the mattering cut. On my list of things to fix.

Imran Malik

On Oct 28, 2024, at 8:58?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <david@...> wrote:

?

Hi John:

?

You make good points about both the use of a bandsaw and thicknessing on edge. And with regard to the slightly ‘out of square’ issue. It is very minor like you say, but enough to notice. When it matters (e.g. for gluing up, joinery work, kumiko, etc.) I will always make two rip cuts. The first cut is slightly wide, and the second cut for that perfect rip where the material does not ride up on the slider.

?

(Yes, yes, I know this is hard on the blade and is probably a bad habit. But it works for me.)

?

There is another technique that I’m not sure has been mentioned much on FOG. I sometimes parallel rip on the slider without a parallel fence by measuring the overhang of material. Here are the steps:

?

  1. Take any material, clamp it down to the sliding table, and cut it with the blade intended for ripping (e.g. 3.2/2.2 x 30mm).

?

  1. Do not unclamp the material. Now take a steel ruler or callipers and carefully measure the overhang of material in relation to the right edge of the sliding table. For my saw, Kappa 400, the overhang is exactly 5.5mm. This is the distance between the right side of the sliding extrusion, and the left edge of my 3.2/2.2mm blade.

?

  1. Armed with the offset of 5.5mm (or whatever yours is), and with the slider retracted, place the first edge of whatever you’re trying to dimension on the slider and position it so it overhangs by roughly 5-6mm off the right edge of the sliding table.

?

  1. Clamp the board in place and use an accurate steel ruler or callipers to measure the offset. If it is less than 5.5mm, then the blade will not cut. If it is 6mm, then the blade will remove 0.5mm of material. You get the idea (hopefully).

?

  1. Both ends of the board must be checked to ensure it overhangs by more than 5.5mm. Adjust as needed and reclamp. Make the cut.

?

  1. If you’re planning on a trim cut only (i.e. not taking off much), make sure to account for any bow in the material. If the bow is outwards or convex, then the blade will engage at either measured end, and simply take more stock out of the middle (where the bow is largest). But if the bow is inwards or concave, you need to make sure the entire length of material is overhanging the slider by more than 5.5mm.

?

  1. I do this procedure where I don’t have a lot of width to work with and I want to trim the minimum amount to achieve a straight line rip. If there is plenty of width, I just eye-ball it. I guess some of us (not me) have a laser and just use that.

?

  1. If the stock is not too long (e.g. less than 1200mm) I simply set the rip fence and parallel rip in the conventional way. I’m assuming a small sample size here. It is far less tiring and safer to take the time to set up proper parallel fence/s for repetitive rips for larger jobs.

?

  1. If the stock is long, say 2-3m, but I only need to rip one, I’ll do some mental arithmetic and do a parallel rip on the basis of the overhang amount. I can get very close using this method (at least down to 0.2mm). If the board has to be exactly parallel, I always break out Brian’s parallel fence, calibrate it using my magnetic ‘calibration device’ so that it agrees exactly with my cross-cut fence stop. And parallel rip that way.

?

Again, I hope this helps.

?

Warm regards,

Lucky

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of John Hinman via groups.io <jhinman1911@...>
Date: Tuesday, 29 October 2024 at 10:31
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s

Another method for ripping is skipping the circular saw, ripping to slightly over width on a band saw, and running the boards on edge through a thicknesser. That idea has been presented in this group before, so I do not take credit for it. I struggled with that idea until I acquired a band saw that would make clean and straight cuts.

?

Once a board is flat and uniformly thick, I will joint one edge and rip a piece off the edge. If ripping several pieces from one board, I just keep jointing and ripping until done.

?

When my saw was new and I was still trying to use it like a cabinet saw, I found that the slight difference in elevation between the cast iron and the slider was enough to throw the cut edge out of square. Not by much, but by enough to be noticeable in some cases.

--

John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
3461 - 3480 of 141194