I would be quiet interested, would you ship it to europe? Also would it be possible to buy it without the router? Many thanks, Rich
On Tue, 10 Sept 2024 at 04:07, David Cameron via <woodtales= [email protected]> wrote: Would like to find a new home for Leigh FMT Pro with 3 1/4 hp dewalt plunge router. Asking ?$850.00 plus shipping. Reply if interested. Many extra’s included.
|
Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
Not sure how I missed that the first time but wow Mr Best, wow.
Mark Foster
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 17, 2024, at 10:14, Wade Dees via groups.io <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? I second that! ? On Sep 17, 2024, at 10:04?AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? David, ? You keep teasing us with picture of your F&F...time to go into production mode. Dave Davies On Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 12:02?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: When needing to make minor adjustments to the stop on the F&F, nothing comes close to having a digital readout. ?
JP,
?
I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock?
?
Thanks,
Mike
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
--
Mark Foster
|
Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 17, 2024, at 10:04?AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? David, ? You keep teasing us with picture of your F&F...time to go into production mode. Dave Davies On Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 12:02?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: When needing to make minor adjustments to the stop on the F&F, nothing comes close to having a digital readout. ?
JP,
?
I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock?
?
Thanks,
Mike
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
David, ? You keep teasing us with picture of your F&F...time to go into production mode. Dave Davies
On Tue, Sep 17, 2024 at 12:02?PM David P. Best via <dbestworkshop= [email protected]> wrote: When needing to make minor adjustments to the stop on the F&F, nothing comes close to having a digital readout. ?
JP,
?
I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock?
?
Thanks,
Mike
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
When needing to make minor adjustments to the stop on the F&F, nothing comes close to having a digital readout. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 17, 2024, at 9:25?AM, Mike via groups.io <mike@...> wrote:
JP,
?
I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock?
?
Thanks,
Mike
|
Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
JP,
?
I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock?
?
Thanks,
Mike
|
1. Try Naptha. If it is too fast but still works, downgrade to mineral spirits. 2. If #1 doesn't work, xylene or "xylol" 3. If #2 doesn't work, denatured alcohol 4. If you want it really gone, lacquer thinner and/or acetone. 5. If it's just a bit gummy, scrub a dub with some soapy water and a brush/broom? in multiple mild applications until desired results are achieved of removing excess but leaving protection.?
Hi,
Not a Felder question at all.
I recently finished my Ipe deck with an ipe oil finish. For one reason or another I left too much oil on the wood and it gummed up rather than soaked into the wood. (Note: I have used this oil before and wiped any excess off, this time i did not wipe off any excess)
Any suggestions on how to remove the gum?
I have tried scraping and sanding (and sanding after scraping), the sandpaper cloggs up in a matter of seconds .... the results are so so, and the wood remains a bit sticky.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Klaus Hermanns
Owner of 2001 CF731
?
--
Klaus
Owner of CF731
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Hi,
Not a Felder question at all.
I recently finished my Ipe deck with an ipe oil finish. For one reason or another I left too much oil on the wood and it gummed up rather than soaked into the wood. (Note: I have used this oil before and wiped any excess off, this time i did not wipe off any excess)
Any suggestions on how to remove the gum?
I have tried scraping and sanding (and sanding after scraping), the sandpaper cloggs up in a matter of seconds .... the results are so so, and the wood remains a bit sticky.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Klaus Hermanns
Owner of 2001 CF731
?
--
Klaus
Owner of CF731
|
Hi Christopher:
?
You are likely not missing much. Hardwax oils are easy to use, look good, and last fairly well. But those three descriptors could be used for a wide variety of finishes!
?
Maybe the only thing to consider is that hardwax oils, generally speaking, have lower toxicity. The percentages of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) are lower, but they still contain a very high level of solvents
(with a few notable exceptions, e.g. Odie’s Oil). I’m not a chemist or finishing expert by any stretch of the imagination, so I don’t know exactly how much safer the low VOC products are to general products.
?
That said, low VOC hardwax oils are far less smelly, and retain less smell too after they cure.
All the best.
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
Ok ya’ll..
For years I have been using Watco and Waterlox, with what I believe to be success.
Am I missing something critical, or am I just clueless? I am not producing my projects commercially, and maybe that has some value in this discussion.
Chris Rozycki
> On Sep 14, 2024, at 6:12?AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
>
> ?[Edited Message Follows]
>
> Hi Lucky,
> I have only been using the Saicos premium hard wax oil on my home projects and the yurt I built for my son. I know they have other products but that’s the only one I have used. I used some Osmo years ago and it seemed to work the same but certainly have not
put the research into this like you have. When I first started using these I felt like the build and protection was not so good wiping that first coat off. Hence going to leaving a heavy coat on the first application. It does dry fairly coarse and needs sanding
with 320. The 320 is a hold over from my hard finish days but getting the sheen and feel I like. I just use the microfiber roller they sell and leaving the material on without wiping doesn’t seem like the type roller matters much.
> I’m not using Hardwax oil for any exterior work. I have been using the Saicos UV exterior oil for this applied the same way. I have tried several of the European exterior oils and also US made Heritage Oil. It used to be made locally. They are all similar,
with exterior oil the recoating and maintenance is necessary depending on exposure.
>
> Now for my bar project I’m using Rubio only because I like the way their stains go on. Not a fan of staining anything but an old fashioned bar calls for it. And the customer is always right! Or should we say - he with the gold makes the rules! The color is
coming out good but the one coat just doesn’t seem like enough. I plan to use the sheen additive for a second coat. I did not see any reason to use the hardener since it will be a while before it is even installed.
> I talked to a guy that came to Alpine a few years ago that was using Rubio. He has since gone from a one man shop to a full on architectural shop with employees. He said he was getting a lot of callback on Rubio finished horizontal work. He started adding
N3 Nano to the topcoat and said that helped some but said he finally set up a spray booth using Poly and conversion varnish.
> For my bar tops I am going to go over the Rubio with Poly. Bars I built 20 to 30 years ago we finishe the bar tops with poly and easy to refinish when necessary. Conversion varnish is tougher but very difficult to refinish in the field.
>
>
>
>
>
> <IMG_9438.jpeg>
> <IMG_9437.jpeg>
|
Jason, good point about the wax in these products. I did make a sample and the poly went on fine and still ok after a couple days. Way back when we did cabinets using glazes, stains and catalyzed topcoats we would test for compatibility by putting samples in the freezer overnight and out in the sun. I also hate poly but worried about the high usage on this bar. I have some time on this and will also look into going over this with Livos.
I am very pleased with the way the Rubio chocolate color went on the white oak. The wood had a lot of color variation and the stain evened it all out with no blotches. Very easy to apply on flat surfaces but tedious on the moulding.
|
Hi Mike:
Can you give more specifics on this product? Emmet’s urethane gel or …? Thanks!
Warm regards,
Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
We have used ‘The Good Stuff’ for the last 20+ years on butcher block tops. ?A little fussy to apply, (wipe on and off), and durable. ?Plus it’s easy to touch up. ?Haven’t found anything better, and looks pretty good on furniture too.
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
|
We have used ‘The Good Stuff’ for the last 20+ years on butcher block tops. ?A little fussy to apply, (wipe on and off), and durable. ?Plus it’s easy to touch up. ?Haven’t found anything better, and looks pretty good on furniture too.
?
Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
|
I have only used Rubio twice.? It was the easiest thing to apply I have ever used, and smelled nice, sort of like honey, while it was going on as well.? I applied two coats, which drastically improved the sheen to something that looks like a matte?finish to me and everyone who has seen it.? A tiny bit goes a very long way.? Three years later (it's abar cabinet), it looks exactly as it did when I finished applying it.? That is curly cherry, not "blotching" in case anyone was concerned.? Jeff
On Sat, Sep 14, 2024 at 10:53?AM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon= [email protected]> wrote: I know the poly defeats the idea of Rubio but I just don’t want the customer calling me with staining issues. Commercial bar is a tough go. Also going to talk to Todd about Waterlox now that it was mentioned. The Rubio stain turned out nice. Very laborious to apply especially the moulding and raised panels.
|
Hi Joe and others:
?
I very much appreciate all the commentary on real-world use. This discussion simply adds to the data and helps keep us all informed.
?
Jason, I’ve also found that Livos counter-top oil is far more water repellent then just Livos Kunos (which is what I tested). I wanted to review another 8 products, and the variations, but the editor needed
to keep the review a manageable size for the mag. One thing I’ve found, which people seem to be confirming here, is that more product usually means more durability or water resistance. Hardwax oils are not “supposed” to be film finishes, but when applied as
a film, or as a hybrid (one or more coats film and one or more coats rubbed in), there is a noticeable uptick in qualities.
?
The exceptions are Rubio and Odie’s Oil which seem fairly “durable” buffed only. I completely agree that Odie’s is a lot of work and I’m wary of reports here and elsewhere that it does not last. As for Rubio,
I’m appreciating the feedback here. Agreed Joe, it is a lot of work in fiddly areas and I personally would probably avoid it. Except for staining. Hardwax oils are so easy to use when different tints are needed.
?
I have no experience with putting poly over the top of any hardwax oil so I’m reading the various comments here with interest. I personally hate the look of poly, but I get the need to minimise call-backs.
Joe, your comment about varnish takes me back 35 years to a roll-top desk I made with Behlen’s Rock Hard Table Top Varnish. What a brute of a finish to apply but it is still going today.
?
There is really not a lot new under the sun. Do yourself a favour and buy Bob Flexner’s book on finishing. It is so well written and clearly backed up by real-world experience. What I love most about his book
is that he encourages “breaking the rules” and teaches what works (combos, application, etc.) and what doesn’t work and why. Well worth it.
?
I suspect that some or all of the hardwax oils have polymerised oil in them. Polymerised oil is much harder than normal oil. Flexner goes into the details. That said, if I were in the USA I’d use Sutherland
Welles polymerised oil. I used to be able to get it here but not for more than 25 years. It is a fantastic product (or used to be). David Best has recent experience with it. By the way, Odie’s Oil was the only oil that would not harden in the drying tests.
Even several weeks later it was a stick puddle of mess. That tells me it cannot last as there is no resin and no poylmerised oil in them (both of which cure hard).
?
Thanks a lot for the discussion.
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
I know the poly defeats the idea of Rubio but I just don’t want the customer calling me with staining issues. Commercial bar is a tough go. Also going to talk to Todd about Waterlox
now that it was mentioned. The Rubio stain turned out nice. Very laborious to apply especially the moulding and raised panels.
|
Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
Mac,
Thankfully you told me about negative hook angle blades when I got my Northfield Unipoint. ?The Unipoint made a great cutoff saw, was very smooth and never bogged down.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 15, 2024, at 9:53?AM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via groups.io <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
Joe, Rebuilt my first 94 d in 75 they swing in parallelogram straight line.They require a negative rake saw blade I have an 18” leitz on saw so 5.5” cut off capacity.s people in Ohio They probably had a positive rake and poorly set up.? Any blade over top should be zip to negative few degrees. The 94 d weights close to 2000# 7.5 hp 3600 direct motor drive. This is not ?a set up for the average person? You need mill wright ?skills ,,,lots going on . I consider the saw very safe as saws go? So you can just set material against fence were you want ? Not holding and slam it through !! I have a clamp on it just cause I can! I bought this saw in 2002 and and finally got it up and running couple months ago. Built dust shoot with phenolic inserts so dust is captured of the tip and up the blow pipe .? Maya stops are finest bar none supper heavy duty very precise And quick to set . ?Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell Designing and building for 50 years
|
Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
Joe, Rebuilt my first 94 d in 75 they swing in parallelogram straight line. They require a negative rake saw blade I have an 18” leitz on saw so 5.5” cut off capacity.s people in Ohio They probably had a positive rake and poorly set up.? Any blade over top should be zip to negative few degrees. The 94 d weights close to 2000# 7.5 hp 3600 direct motor drive. This is not ?a set up for the average person? You need mill wright ?skills ,,,lots going on . I consider the saw very safe as saws go? So you can just set material against fence were you want ? Not holding and slam it through !! I have a clamp on it just cause I can! I bought this saw in 2002 and and finally got it up and running couple months ago. Built dust shoot with phenolic inserts so dust is captured of the tip and up the blow pipe .? Maya stops are finest bar none supper heavy duty very precise And quick to set . ?Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 15, 2024, at 10:42?AM, bacchus6015 via groups.io <joeinno@...> wrote:
? Mac,
I saw a saw like that one in a big wood shop in Medina, OH and the owner of the shop called it the “Mangler”. ?
What made swing saws so dangerous?
On Sep 15, 2024, at 8:36?AM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via groups.io <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
Hi Pat? Sure, not trying to hijack your thread. Just thought I’d throw in this tidbit of information people. I really like used their product for a long time. Here’s a picture of Maya on my cut 94 D cut off saw
| |
Mark Foster
David P. Best
Mike
David Luckensmeyer
Jeff
Jason Holtz