I'm about to order a 4 x 8 CNC that requires 7 CFM at 110 psi and I'm shopping for a compressor. The compressor is going to live in the shop so I'd like to find something fairly quiet, not sure if it's going to make much difference with the CNC and dust collection running but the quieter the better. I came across this oil less scroll compressor, Would it make any sense to get that with a basic VFD for my needs? I was looking at the Eastwood QST 30/60 but I'm concerned about the issues people have reported and the overall longevity of it. I'm assuming oil less scroll compressors don't have the same problems as screw compressors when it comes to not running them near full capacity.
I have the first wheel of Comatic (DS300) contacting wood 2” past the ?beginning of the outfeed. IIRC, the recommendation was 50-60mm.
Joe’s pic also shows extension table with leg on the outfeed. This is the way to go with long heavy stock. Although I have surfaced 14’ ling 4x8 beams successfully on Dual 51 with infeed and out feed ext tables (w/o legs) these tables sag under weight. I use a roller support behind the cantilever extension table because I don’t want to rely on the PF to keep the material from lifting above the outfeed table.
On Aug 11, 2024, at 4:59?PM, David Luckensmeyer via groups.io <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?
This thread has morphed into a handy discussion of power feeders on the jointer, and I’m grateful for your replies. Of course I’m also happy for the original SCM upgrade!
?
I think I used to put the feeder really close to the cutter block, actually too close (but not over), and resented the guard’s presence. I’ve not had the guard installed for a LONG time. I think, on reflection
and because of the replies here, that I’m going to go dig it out and reattach it to my jointer.
?
Like Joe, I find the feeder does not work for everything. I also have it to one side so I can hand-feed bowed or twisted stock from either end to partially flatten it before sending it through the feeder.
And the feeder has diminished value for smaller sections, unless there are 100s of said sections. Loved the pic of the crazy horse holding one end of a long/heavy board. I need to make one.
?
I want to work well, but be safe also, and this thread is a good reminder of doing both. Thanks everyone!
I own a Powermatic 20” Helical Head Planer - (209HH) - can anyone tell me where I can find rubber rollers to convert it? Do you simply remove the bed rollers? Feel free to educate me of my ignorance, I won’t take offense… advice on this path pros/cons welcomed.
Regards,
Michael Branning
> On Aug 10, 2024, at 10:01?AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
>
> I like rubber feed rolls on my planer and no bed rolls. The material comes out cleaner, bed rollers get chips caught in them sometimes and leave marks. With rubber rolls you can take .1mm off without leaving marks. A good setup for the Craftsman type shop.
No doubt for production steel rollers and bed rolls are the way to go. The rubber feeds do wear out with time. On my second set in 20 years and ready for another set.
>
These videos are for specific tasks, but I think they are very well done and I found them very useful. ?
?
Of course, if you are willing to travel internationally, there is always the Alpine workshop for hands on training. ?I personally do not see why the distance has to be a deal breaker. ?
This thread has morphed into a handy discussion of power feeders on the jointer, and I’m grateful for your replies. Of course I’m also happy for the original SCM upgrade!
?
I think I used to put the feeder really close to the cutter block, actually too close (but not over), and resented the guard’s presence. I’ve not had the guard installed for a LONG time. I think, on reflection
and because of the replies here, that I’m going to go dig it out and reattach it to my jointer.
?
Like Joe, I find the feeder does not work for everything. I also have it to one side so I can hand-feed bowed or twisted stock from either end to partially flatten it before sending it through the feeder.
And the feeder has diminished value for smaller sections, unless there are 100s of said sections. Loved the pic of the crazy horse holding one end of a long/heavy board. I need to make one.
?
I want to work well, but be safe also, and this thread is a good reminder of doing both. Thanks everyone!
I own a Powermatic 20” Helical Head Planer - (209HH) - can anyone tell me where I can find rubber rollers to convert it? Do you simply remove the bed rollers? Feel free to educate me of my ignorance, I won’t take offense… advice on this path pros/cons welcomed.
Regards,
Michael Branning
> On Aug 10, 2024, at 10:01?AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
>
> I like rubber feed rolls on my planer and no bed rolls. The material comes out cleaner, bed rollers get chips caught in them sometimes and leave marks. With rubber rolls you can take .1mm off without leaving marks. A good setup for the Craftsman type shop.
No doubt for production steel rollers and bed rolls are the way to go. The rubber feeds do wear out with time. On my second set in 20 years and ready for another set.
>
While I was combo shopping, I took a look at Brian’s BF631 (the Michigan machine). Although I ended up going with a new SCM combo instead, Brian’s machine is very clean. Obviously well cared for and includes some important (to me) accessories like the mortiser and the router spindle. Had I not enhanced my requirements to be able to rip a full sheet of plywood, I likely would have purchased his.?
I own a Powermatic 20” Helical Head Planer - (209HH) - can anyone tell me where I can find rubber rollers to convert it? Do you simply remove the bed rollers? Feel free to educate me of my ignorance, I won’t take offense… advice on this path pros/cons welcomed.
On Aug 10, 2024, at 10:01?AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
I like rubber feed rolls on my planer and no bed rolls. The material comes out cleaner, bed rollers get chips caught in them sometimes and leave marks. With rubber rolls you can take .1mm off without leaving marks. A good setup for the Craftsman type shop. No doubt for production steel rollers and bed rolls are the way to go. The rubber feeds do wear out with time. On my second set in 20 years and ready for another set.
As others have mentioned bracket fabrication is very simple however if you care of weld quality then you have to be picky. I just wanted a solid bracket and a local fabricator did a fine job (not pretty though see pic) including spray painting.
?
?
You can draw a design by hand or whip one out very quickly in 3D drawing app. Here is mine from Sketchup and it is more complicated due to Dual 51 needing a 6” height elevation. Obviously you can add all dimensions which I have excluded to prevent cluttering.
From: Imran Malik Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2024 8:52 AM To:[email protected] Subject: Re: [FOG] SCM FS 41ES/52ES
?
Hi Netanel,
?
Most likely this is not the case but just want to be sure that you have verified that there is an adequate mounting surface on this machine for PF attachment.
On at least some Felder jointers that don’t have factory prep for PF also don’t have an?appropriate mounting surface.
?
Imran Malik
On Aug 9, 2024, at 6:29?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I was told that in order to add a power feeder I'll need to made my own bracket, they don't have any preparation for that.
This has been discussed here many times. I learned from David Best. The most important piece of kit for PF on jointer is smart stand. Its memo feature swings it in to the same place every time and the height control is up front. The vertical bar has scale for height but a mechanical (odometer like) height gauge is available as an option.
On Aug 10, 2024, at 10:01?AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?[Edited Message Follows]
David L asked if anyone uses a feeder on the jointer. I use it occasionally, mostly for large quantities and thick, heavy long material. I don’t care for it on 4/4, harder to take a bow out of thinner material. It is good for flattening glued up 4/4 panels though. My S4S moulder has a infeed table that acts as a jointer but it doesn’t work miracles. I still face critical parts on the jointer before going to the moulder. It’s a little chore to position on the jointer and why I don’t use it for small quantities. Swing it in, adjust height, crank out the arm etc. I always have spare feeders sitting around but if buying one for the jointer the single wheel Comatic looks like it would be the way to go. Boards with twist still need hand feeding to float across the tables. I usually set the feeder at one side so still enough room to hand feed if needed. I been making 2” thick X 10’ long white oak tops last week so using the feeder a lot. The Crazy Horse dolly also key with heavy planks.
I like rubber feed rolls on my planer and no bed rolls. The material comes out cleaner, bed rollers get chips caught in them sometimes and leave marks. With rubber rolls you can take .1mm off without leaving marks. A good setup for the Craftsman type shop. No doubt for production steel rollers and bed rolls are the way to go. The rubber feeds do wear out with time. On my second set in 20 years and ready for another set.
David L asked if anyone uses a feeder on the jointer. I use it occasionally, mostly for large quantities and thick, heavy long material. I don’t care for it on 4/4, harder to take a bow out of thinner material. It is good for flattening glued up 4/4 panels though. My S4S moulder has a infeed table that acts as a jointer but it doesn’t work miracles. I still face critical parts on the jointer before going to the moulder. It’s a little chore to position on the jointer and why I don’t use it for small quantities. Swing it in, adjust height, crank out the arm etc. I always have spare feeders sitting around but if buying one for the jointer the single wheel Comatic looks like it would be the way to go. Boards with twist still need hand feeding to float across the tables. I usually set the feeder at one side so still enough room to hand feed if needed. I been making 2” thick X 10’ long white oak tops last week so using the feeder a lot. The Crazy Horse dolly also key with heavy planks.
I like rubber feed rolls on my planer and no bed rolls. The material comes out cleaner, bed rollers get chips caught in them sometimes and leave marks. With rubber rolls you can take .1mm off without leaving marks. A good setup for the Craftsman type shop. No doubt for production steel rollers and bed rolls are the way to go. The rubber feeds do wear out with time. On my second set in 20 years and ready for another set.
My recommendation is yes for the sectional steel rollers in feed and chipbreaker. I have had at least six planers from 24 inches to 40 inches all with sectional infeed and chipbreaker and their phenomenal next to solid bar. The next best type roller is spiral type personally I’d stay away from anything that says rubber on it.
Sectional Gives the ability to run very thicknesses of material through it also compensates for weird shapes on the top of the material as your stuff that you faced that has the angular face on. It feeds all the way across so yes.
Not at all a fan of power feeders on the facer, but if you’re doing trim and moldings and stuff like that, it gives you ?a decent finish. If you’re gonna go that route, I’d highly recommend the comic feeder that’s designed for facing with a finger feed..
I had a porter 36 inch facer and finger feeder and their incredible Made up of many pointed fingers that roll over the wood and grab it each one of them independently adjustable so it carries the material through like a professional hand and feeding.
I wouldn’t sweet mounting the bracket thing about as basic as you get for fabrication lots of people in your area can do that no problem as far as drilling a few holes in the machine Whoopie Doo.
Any, congrats on the new invincible I’m sure it will be a joy to use my
Big space saver ?It has all the bells and whistles to make life easy.
On Aug 10, 2024, at 7:52?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?Hi Netanel,
Most likely this is not the case but just want to be sure that you have verified that there is an adequate mounting surface on this machine for PF attachment.
On at least some Felder jointers that don’t have factory prep for PF also don’t have an?appropriate mounting surface.
Imran Malik
On Aug 9, 2024, at 6:29?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
I was told that in order to add a power feeder I'll need to made my own bracket, they don't have any preparation for that.
Most likely this is not the case but just want to be sure that you have verified that there is an adequate mounting surface on this machine for PF attachment.
On at least some Felder jointers that don’t have factory prep for PF also don’t have an?appropriate mounting surface.
I live in the San Francisco area, so we have a bit more than 50,000 :)
?
I am still not sure if I want a power feeder.
my current J/P is the Hammer A3-31, with a bed length of 1400, so even when I used the aluminum extension (which not always stayed flat with the cast iron), jointing something longer than 7 ft was challenging.
I will see how hard it will be to plan longer/wider boards before I’ll add a PF.
?
For the Suvamatic, I am still hesitating. I didn’t like the pork chop that comes with the 52ES, so it was a must, but the FS7 has the euro guard. And as Tom said earlier, it makes the top heavier, so I am not sure how it will work.
?
I got a quote from S&S for the Suvamaric and it was ?2200, if Martin sells it for $1800, it has a nice discount
?
There is one option I am not sure that comes with the pre configured machine that is on the way to the US.
“First sectioned feed roller in steel”. I wondered if this is something I want?
?
(As a side note, I want to thank you for convinced me to go with the PTE010 and not the weaker model, the FS7 consumes 33A (leaves just about 10% of the max 36A)
Fitting a power feeder to the SCM jointer should be an easy task for any machinist or fabricator. ?I don’t remember where you live, but if your residence has at least 50,000 people there will be more than one machinist and fabricator there who can design and fabricate what you need. ?This is the most basic of mechanical assemblies - an L-bracket with some holes and some threaded holes in the machine base to attach it to. ?Example here: ?
Martin USA is going downhill fast. ?They have no one with technical expertise left. ?Personally, I don’t like the Suvamatic guard, but you can order it from Scott & Sargeant in the UK?and have the same machinist fit it to your J/P.
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Aug 9, 2024, at 3:29?PM, netanel.belgazal via groups.io <netanel.belgazal@...> wrote:
David,
?
I went again to the SCM booth and asked about adding a power feeder. I was told that in order to add a power feeder I'll need to made my own bracket, they don't have any preparation for that. I was told to check with Co-matic, they should have a PF dedicated for jointers. So I went to ShopGear and was told their jointer PF is only for jointers between 10" and 14".
?
?
I went to Martin to ask about the Suvamatic, the sales rep barely knew details about it. He also didn't know about their inventory, not impressive.
You are welcome. Who are you trying to contact? With online postings one has to be careful as scam artists do exist. The only owner I know (a FOG member) is in MI (BF631). He had knee surgery and probably be out of commission for at least 6 weeks.
On Aug 9, 2024, at 6:37?PM, rjoco.rowbear via groups.io <rjoco.rowbear@...> wrote:
?
Hi Imran, Thanks ever so much for replying to my request. ?That was very gracious of you. I have contacted these folks; but, I’m having trouble talking to them. ? Thanks Again, Robert
Hi Imran, Thanks ever so much for replying to my request. ?That was very gracious of you. I have contacted these folks; but, I’m having trouble talking to them. ? Thanks Again, Robert
I went again to the SCM booth and asked about adding a power feeder. I was told that in order to add a power feeder I'll need to made my own bracket, they don't have any preparation for that. I was told to check with Co-matic, they should have a PF dedicated for jointers. So I went to ShopGear and was told their jointer PF is only for jointers between 10" and 14".
?
?
I went to Martin to ask about the Suvamatic, the sales rep barely knew details about it. He also didn't know about their inventory, not impressive.
On Aug 9, 2024, at 11:45?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?Hi Robert,
Currently I am only aware of CF531 in Gig Harbor (Seattle/Tacoma) area. There are couple of BF631 (MI and NY).
I routinely post on my FB site, link below if you would like to join.
Imran Malik
On Aug 9, 2024, at 12:21?PM, rjoco.rowbear via groups.io <rjoco.rowbear@...> wrote:
?
Hi, Robert Here,
Looking to buy a clean Felder or Hammer 5 in 1, combination machine in northwestern South Carolina. If you have one to sell, or are thinking about selling one; let’s talk.
On Aug 9, 2024, at 11:45?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?Hi Robert,
Currently I am only aware of CF531 in Gig Harbor (Seattle/Tacoma) area. There are couple of BF631 (MI and NY).
I routinely post on my FB site, link below if you would like to join.
Imran Malik
On Aug 9, 2024, at 12:21?PM, rjoco.rowbear via groups.io <rjoco.rowbear@...> wrote:
?
Hi, Robert Here,
Looking to buy a clean Felder or Hammer 5 in 1, combination machine in northwestern South Carolina. If you have one to sell, or are thinking about selling one; let’s talk.
On Aug 9, 2024, at 11:45?AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?Hi Robert,
Currently I am only aware of CF531 in Gig Harbor (Seattle/Tacoma) area. There are couple of BF631 (MI and NY).
I routinely post on my FB site, link below if you would like to join.
Imran Malik
On Aug 9, 2024, at 12:21?PM, rjoco.rowbear via groups.io <rjoco.rowbear@...> wrote:
?
Hi, Robert Here,
Looking to buy a clean Felder or Hammer 5 in 1, combination machine in northwestern South Carolina. If you have one to sell, or are thinking about selling one; let’s talk.