¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Joe and others: ? I very much appreciate all the commentary on real-world use. This discussion simply adds to the data and helps keep us all informed. ? Jason, I¡¯ve also found that Livos counter-top oil is far more water repellent then just Livos Kunos (which is what I tested). I wanted to review another 8 products, and the variations, but the editor needed to keep the review a manageable size for the mag. One thing I¡¯ve found, which people seem to be confirming here, is that more product usually means more durability or water resistance. Hardwax oils are not ¡°supposed¡± to be film finishes, but when applied as a film, or as a hybrid (one or more coats film and one or more coats rubbed in), there is a noticeable uptick in qualities. ? The exceptions are Rubio and Odie¡¯s Oil which seem fairly ¡°durable¡± buffed only. I completely agree that Odie¡¯s is a lot of work and I¡¯m wary of reports here and elsewhere that it does not last. As for Rubio, I¡¯m appreciating the feedback here. Agreed Joe, it is a lot of work in fiddly areas and I personally would probably avoid it. Except for staining. Hardwax oils are so easy to use when different tints are needed. ? I have no experience with putting poly over the top of any hardwax oil so I¡¯m reading the various comments here with interest. I personally hate the look of poly, but I get the need to minimise call-backs. Joe, your comment about varnish takes me back 35 years to a roll-top desk I made with Behlen¡¯s Rock Hard Table Top Varnish. What a brute of a finish to apply but it is still going today. ? There is really not a lot new under the sun. Do yourself a favour and buy Bob Flexner¡¯s book on finishing. It is so well written and clearly backed up by real-world experience. What I love most about his book is that he encourages ¡°breaking the rules¡± and teaches what works (combos, application, etc.) and what doesn¡¯t work and why. Well worth it. ? I suspect that some or all of the hardwax oils have polymerised oil in them. Polymerised oil is much harder than normal oil. Flexner goes into the details. That said, if I were in the USA I¡¯d use Sutherland Welles polymerised oil. I used to be able to get it here but not for more than 25 years. It is a fantastic product (or used to be). David Best has recent experience with it. By the way, Odie¡¯s Oil was the only oil that would not harden in the drying tests. Even several weeks later it was a stick puddle of mess. That tells me it cannot last as there is no resin and no poylmerised oil in them (both of which cure hard). ? Thanks a lot for the discussion. ? Warm regards, Lucky ? Dr David Luckensmeyer ? From:
[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> I know the poly defeats the idea of Rubio but I just don¡¯t want the customer calling me with staining issues. Commercial bar is a tough go. Also going to talk to Todd about Waterlox
now that it was mentioned. The Rubio stain turned out nice. Very laborious to apply especially the moulding and raised panels. |