Re: AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
Clearly, Felder is proud of their table adjustment mechanism, they think they are the best.?
It is the same mechanism on my?2016 AD741. I just shake my head that Felder still cannot deliver a jointer to produce the FLAT board.
James
One more comment.? The Hinge Pin is held in lateral position via set screws on both sides and the top shown in red arrows below.? Those may need to be loosened (especially the top one) in order to get the pin to actually move up/down.? Go easy on these, you don’t want the pin wallowing about like a hotdog in a hallway.? Once you’re done moving the pin up/down, re-secure those set screws.? I really detest this mechanism. ?
I'm curious if anyone has a newer generation AD941 and has been able to adjust the infeed table to be coplanar with the outfeed table. In particular, what seems like it should be a simple adjustment on the hinge side is not working out according to my intuition (but I'm no machinist).<IMG_3456.jpeg><IMG_3455.jpeg>
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Re: AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
?Hi David, While I'm adjusting those M10 cap screws, I'm assuming:
- I "tighten" them (move them upward) to move the table up
Correct. Righty-tighty. Lefty-loosey.?
- I should have the kip lever on the infeed side lightly tightened (and the outfeed one loose)
The latch side of the table should be unlatched when making this adjustment. ? Once you get the hinge side of the infeed table coplanar to the hinge side of the outfeed table, then turn attention to the latch side. ?You can adjust the slope of both tables on the latch side by altering the relative heights of the two temple bolts for each table. ?Carbon paper is a good way to test those alignments. ?LOL
David Best?
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Re: AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
? ? Andy,
I fully understand your thoughts about David Best, the guy is a Walking Institution! ?
Which cutter set up are you running? ?You mentioned your outfeed table is now 001”-.002” below the cutter knives, just wondering if your running straight knives. ?I also saw a different measurement for setting the outfeed table to the cutting block, which is different from setting to knives. ?See attached pictures. ?But I’m wondering if this cutter block dimension is also true for someone that is running the Silent Power spiral knife cutting block set up?
Wade
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 5:08 PM, Andy Pickler <andy.pickler@...> wrote:
?I think the hammer/mallet blow was in regards to lowering the outfeed table. My outfeed table as-received was quite a bit above the cutterhead knives. I loosened the height adjustment bolt, but that alone will not lower the outfeed table. For me, even striking with a mallet did nothing, and even putting 210# of free weights on the outfeed table overnight didn't lower it completely. I literally had to jump on the outfeed table directly over the supports to lower it even a few thousandths. Thankfully, I now have the outfeed table completely level/parallel with the cutterhead and between 0.001" and 0.002" below the cutterhead knives. If you want me to elaborate any more on that procedure, I can do that. I have corresponded with David Best as well, and he is top-notch in his support, his documentation, and of course his knowledge and experience. I wouldn't be as far along as I am without him.
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Re: AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
Hi David, While I'm adjusting those M10 cap screws, I'm assuming:
- I "tighten" them (move them upward) to move the table up
- I should have the kip lever on the infeed side lightly tightened (and the outfeed one loose)
True?
I did loosen the set screws on top considerably, and the lateral ones just a little (to allow for the up-down movement as you suggest). What I found was that as I tightened the left M10 cap screw ("left" as viewed from the back of the machine...the screw farthest away from the cutterhead)...that the table moved up for awhile and then my dial indicator indicator it was going down. That was confounding. I need to re-check my measurement devices, though, and make sure something wasn't causing an inaccurate reading.
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Re: AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
One more comment. ?The Hinge Pin is held in lateral position via set screws on both sides and the top shown in red arrows below. ?Those may need to be loosened (especially the top one) in order to get the pin to actually move up/down. ?Go easy on these, you don’t want the pin wallowing about like a hotdog in a hallway. ?Once you’re done moving the pin up/down, re-secure those set screws. ?I really detest this mechanism. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 3:58 PM, Andy Pickler <andy.pickler@...> wrote:
I'm curious if anyone has a newer generation AD941 and has been able to adjust the infeed table to be coplanar with the outfeed table. In particular, what seems like it should be a simple adjustment on the hinge side is not working out according to my intuition (but I'm no machinist).<IMG_3456.jpeg><IMG_3455.jpeg>
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Re: AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
This is the parts diagram for the hinge mechanism on the AD941. ?The “Hinge Pin” is item #1 (green arrow), and the elevation and slope of the table (going toward the cutterblock), is adjusted by moving this pin at either or both ends. ?The pin can be repositioned at each end using the long M10 cap screws called out as #6 (red arrows).
Those elevation screws are noted in your photos with red arrows:
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 3:58 PM, Andy Pickler <andy.pickler@...> wrote:
I'm curious if anyone has a newer generation AD941 and has been able to adjust the infeed table to be coplanar with the outfeed table. In particular, what seems like it should be a simple adjustment on the hinge side is not working out according to my intuition (but I'm no machinist).<IMG_3456.jpeg><IMG_3455.jpeg>
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Re: AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
I think the hammer/mallet blow was in regards to lowering the outfeed table. My outfeed table as-received was quite a bit above the cutterhead knives. I loosened the height adjustment bolt, but that alone will not lower the outfeed table. For me, even striking with a mallet did nothing, and even putting 210# of free weights on the outfeed table overnight didn't lower it completely. I literally had to jump on the outfeed table directly over the supports to lower it even a few thousandths. Thankfully, I now have the outfeed table completely level/parallel with the cutterhead and between 0.001" and 0.002" below the cutterhead knives. If you want me to elaborate any more on that procedure, I can do that. I have corresponded with David Best as well, and he is top-notch in his support, his documentation, and of course his knowledge and experience. I wouldn't be as far along as I am without him.
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Re: AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
Hi Andy,
I have a brand new one as well, just rolled it off the pallet about two weeks ago. ?I’ve ordered some miscellaneous parts for it, before I start setting it up. ?I’ll be curious to know how yours goes. ?That issue you brought up about adjusting the infeed table seems like it’s been asked before. ?I can’t remember if this was the issue that gets resolved with a hammer/mallet blow or if that was something completely different.
Once I get all my miscellaneous parts in and installed, I’ve armed myself with the David Best Survival Guide for the AD941 and will be going at myself. ?I’ll follow along as you work through yours.
Thx,
Wade
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 3:58 PM, Andy Pickler <andy.pickler@...> wrote:
?I'm curious if anyone has a newer generation AD941 and has been able to adjust the infeed table to be coplanar with the outfeed table. In particular, what seems like it should be a simple adjustment on the hinge side is not working out according to my intuition (but I'm no machinist).  
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Joe, I’m sure you have a door like that left over from demonstrating at your door workshop. ?I’m fine to drop by and take it off of your hands so you don’t have to just throw it away…
Stunning work!
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 4:41 PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
Hi Joe? Class act on the entrance!!when I was a door and window builder that’s the stuff I used to do . If it was anything but straight and square that what I did. had my fill of that!!! Designing and building for 50 years On Jul 8, 2023, at 1:20 PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
? Mac, FFI sells the Zenit hinge in 16 and 20mm. Adjustable in all directions and will take a heavy load. These require a fairly thick lip if your gasket is in the lip. Probably 18 to 22mm thick. I have jigs I can loan if you go with these. See pictures.GU makes a 3 part hinge that works with doors built with window system tooling with thin lips land gasket. I’ll PM you the info on these. This one is very similar to Anuba brand. They are handed and minimum order of 10.Joe<517EFE38-540D-45E2-ADE9-87D6784499B2.jpeg> <0618A75A-A5E9-44DB-A731-F6DA4DA30D37.jpeg>
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Re: AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
It would seem to me those 2 bolts that extend downwards would require me to move them upward (and I have loosened the set screw that is on the top side). But unfortunately after a certain point of "tightening" those bolts the table starts to move downwards.
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AD941 Infeed Table Adjustment
I'm curious if anyone has a newer generation AD941 and has been able to adjust the infeed table to be coplanar with the outfeed table. In particular, what seems like it should be a simple adjustment on the hinge side is not working out according to my intuition (but I'm no machinist).  
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If you have more than one outlet they are all going to fill lopsided . If you’re really disturbed by it you can add a rotary air lock. Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 10:16 AM, Tom Gensmer <tom@...> wrote:
?Hi Daniel,?
It would be helpful to know some additional details, such as:
-- Year machine was built?
-- Which bin is being filled, which is not being filled?
-- Are the filters clean, or packed with sawdust??
-- What kind of media are you collecting? Chips from a planer or shaper, or fine dust from a sander??
-- What diameter piping are you using??
My RL 160 fills the bins somewhat unevenly, but it seems to be dependent on whether I'm collecting chips or dust. I just keep an eye on the fill levels, and replace the bags as needed.... I'm running a RL160, 6" piping, mixture of dust and chips, antistatic filters, with pneumatic filter cleaning, which I make sure to actuate several times a day....?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Hi Joe? Class act on the entrance!!when I was a door and window builder that’s the stuff I used to do . If it was anything but straight and square that what I did. had my fill of that!!! Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 1:20 PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
? Mac, FFI sells the Zenit hinge in 16 and 20mm. Adjustable in all directions and will take a heavy load. These require a fairly thick lip if your gasket is in the lip. Probably 18 to 22mm thick. I have jigs I can loan if you go with these. See pictures.GU makes a 3 part hinge that works with doors built with window system tooling with thin lips land gasket. I’ll PM you the info on these. This one is very similar to Anuba brand. They are handed and minimum order of 10.Joe<517EFE38-540D-45E2-ADE9-87D6784499B2.jpeg> <0618A75A-A5E9-44DB-A731-F6DA4DA30D37.jpeg>
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Re: Sliding Table Adjustment
Thanks David, I was starting to suspect that was the trouble, it just wasn't making sense in my easily confused brain how the upper two nuts were going to get the job done. That diagram makes it very clear, much appreciated.
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Mac, FFI sells the Zenit hinge in 16 and 20mm. Adjustable in all directions and will take a heavy load. These require a fairly thick lip if your gasket is in the lip. Probably 18 to 22mm thick. I have jigs I can loan if you go with these. See pictures.
GU makes a 3 part hinge that works with doors built with window system tooling with thin lips land gasket. I’ll PM you the info on these. This one is very similar to Anuba brand. They are handed and minimum order of 10.
Joe
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Hi Daniel,?
It would be helpful to know some additional details, such as:
-- Year machine was built?
-- Which bin is being filled, which is not being filled?
-- Are the filters clean, or packed with sawdust??
-- What kind of media are you collecting? Chips from a planer or shaper, or fine dust from a sander??
-- What diameter piping are you using??
My RL 160 fills the bins somewhat unevenly, but it seems to be dependent on whether I'm collecting chips or dust. I just keep an eye on the fill levels, and replace the bags as needed.... I'm running a RL160, 6" piping, mixture of dust and chips, antistatic filters, with pneumatic filter cleaning, which I make sure to actuate several times a day....?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Sliding Table Adjustment
? Number four is a washer - my mistake. I meant to reference number seven as the one to leave tight - it’s not involved in the adjustment process. ?Number seven secures the lower carriage of the sliding table to the studs that move up and down via opposing nuts number three that are on either side of the machine chassis. The photograph is a better pictorial guide anyway. ?From the OP description it sounded like he was trying to use the wrong pair of nuts to adjust the height and tilt of the sliding table.? David Best - Sent from my iPad David Best - Sent from my iPad
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 5:53 AM, Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
? David Best,
Nut #4, in your diagram, looks like a washer. ?
Wade On Jul 8, 2023, at 5:31 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? Look at the following diagram. ?You should be making adjustments with the nuts labeled “3”. ?My suspicion is you trying to adjust the slider height using nut #7 - others have gotten this confused as well.
 
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jul 7, 2023, at 8:06 PM, Greg <ghcustomwoodwork@...> wrote:
Hi All,
This week I took delivery of a K940S, my first slider. Still haven’t wired it up so haven’t seen it run yet, but it’s an understatement to say I’m impressed. I’ve just finished the assembly, and I’m now beginning the process of setting up the machine and bringing it into spec. I’m struggling a bit with fine tuning the table. In trying to follow David Best’s dial indicator method, I’m finding a lack of adjustment range using the bolts under the sliding table to get everything sufficiently coplanar. I’ve attached a photo of my setup so you can see what I’m working with.
So far I’m only working on the table in the middle locking position, and manipulating the 4 center posts. I can get two indicators to read .005 above the cast iron surface, but not the third. I can bring either of the “inner" indicators (positioned at each corner of the cast iron top) into alignment with the dial indicator that is reading at the outer edge of the sliding table. But I can’t get either of those “inner” indicators to agree with one another. One is always at least .007-.009 different than the other. I’m finding that I only have a very small amount of adjustment when I turn the bolts under the table. They either quickly loosen to the point that they are no longer in contact (and so no longer making any adjustment) or they tighten to the point where I can’t turn them any further.?
Am I adjusting the wrong nuts? I’ve been assuming the adjustment is made with the 2 stacked nuts directly underneath the sliding table, not the other nut under the frame. Those seem pretty hard to get to for the 4 posts nearest to the blade assembly. Is that where I should be making adjustments? Grateful for any help this community can provide.
Greg
Greg Halbach Custom Woodwork, LLC
Anchorage, AK 520-904-8706
<IMG_9373.jpeg>
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?ALL : Thanks for your help? Functional Fenestration has AGB But not the adjustable type for vertical alignment I am looking for . Hafele US also has same type minimum order of 100. The doors I have the gasket is one frame one door, not that it makes a difference. mac,,,
 Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jul 7, 2023, at 11:54 PM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:
?Mac, I have not dug into this for quite a while but I don’t think any distributors in the US for Anuba.
FFI and GU sell knockoffs of Anuba but if you need original most likely will have to come from Europe.
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The raised access floors, which are common in computer server rooms, are 2' x 2' metal/concrete/metal sandwiches with a hole on each corner to use a specific machine screw to screw into the supports that hold them up.? There is a suction cup device that you use to lift up the squares, if needed, giving you full access underneath them.? Mine is 18" off the cement floor, so plenty of room.? You need to think a little about routing the rigid ducting, but it really is a great solution to hide the ducting.? I've not seen anyone else use this approach, but I highly recommend it.? You can usually buy used raised access floors for a very reasonable amount, and have the pros install it, which they did in a day.? They also cut holes for the ducting through the squares (kids don't try that at home.? That generated more dust than anything I have ever seen.)
Really quite easy to adapt the Kapex to the Grit, although I should have been more specific.? I have the Grit turning on my two Jet air filters by having the Festool vac its attached to plugged into a 120V Grit trigger.? I have plans to make a small enclosure around the back of the Kapex and hooking that up to Nordfab ducting to have both my cyclone and Festool vac collecting chips from the Kapex, because as we sadly all know dust collection for miters saws is poor.? Even the Kapex, which is supposedly better than most.? Once I do that, I'll install a Grit gate to a Nordfab gate and I bet the dust collection will get markedly better.??
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Re: Sliding Table Adjustment
David Best,
Nut #4, in your diagram, looks like a washer. ?
Wade
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On Jul 8, 2023, at 5:31 AM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? Look at the following diagram. ?You should be making adjustments with the nuts labeled “3”. ?My suspicion is you trying to adjust the slider height using nut #4 - others have gotten this confused as well.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Jul 7, 2023, at 8:06 PM, Greg <ghcustomwoodwork@...> wrote:
Hi All,
This week I took delivery of a K940S, my first slider. Still haven’t wired it up so haven’t seen it run yet, but it’s an understatement to say I’m impressed. I’ve just finished the assembly, and I’m now beginning the process of setting up the machine and bringing it into spec. I’m struggling a bit with fine tuning the table. In trying to follow David Best’s dial indicator method, I’m finding a lack of adjustment range using the bolts under the sliding table to get everything sufficiently coplanar. I’ve attached a photo of my setup so you can see what I’m working with.
So far I’m only working on the table in the middle locking position, and manipulating the 4 center posts. I can get two indicators to read .005 above the cast iron surface, but not the third. I can bring either of the “inner" indicators (positioned at each corner of the cast iron top) into alignment with the dial indicator that is reading at the outer edge of the sliding table. But I can’t get either of those “inner” indicators to agree with one another. One is always at least .007-.009 different than the other. I’m finding that I only have a very small amount of adjustment when I turn the bolts under the table. They either quickly loosen to the point that they are no longer in contact (and so no longer making any adjustment) or they tighten to the point where I can’t turn them any further.?
Am I adjusting the wrong nuts? I’ve been assuming the adjustment is made with the 2 stacked nuts directly underneath the sliding table, not the other nut under the frame. Those seem pretty hard to get to for the 4 posts nearest to the blade assembly. Is that where I should be making adjustments? Grateful for any help this community can provide.
Greg
Greg Halbach Custom Woodwork, LLC
Anchorage, AK 520-904-8706
<IMG_9373.jpeg>
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David P. Best
Andy Pickler
Tom Gensmer