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Thanks for the input Alex. On Fri, 30 Jun 2023 at 17:57, Alex Bowlds<aabj@...> wrote: Hi Simon, I can’t tell how far off the part is from “flat” from the photo. ?But it looks like there

Hi Joe I have mounted the felder adjustable Dado onto the arbor in the T70. I have the Pro-Lock system on the T70 and the mounting feels solid. Fingers crossed. I have entered the dado in the tool

James, The manual is showing the backside washers as being called ball socket 1 & 2. See picture, circled in red. No signs of the larger diameter washers being used. The ball socket like washers have

Joe makes some excellent points as always. In my case, the only stacked cutter sets I use with bushings are 4” (100mm) Freeborn braised carbide units, and I have dedicated bushings that are always

I use a lot of bushings even though all my shafts change very quickly. Most of my runs are short. If a long run I change the shaft. One place I don’t like to use bushings is stacked cutters like

Wade, larger washers are used on the backside of the casting. If my memory serves me correctly, it is a washer (not a split washer) like the one in your picture sitting between the casting and the

James, Thank you for your help. In that first picture, is that a split washer sitting between the casting and the nut? And it looks like you did use the larger washers in the second picture on the

Thanks for the illustration, David. That makes sense to me. -- *Larry Long Neck* Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood

I guess we have different definitions of “PITA”. ? Same is true on the Profil 45 - loosen two kipp levers and the spindle comes out the top. Compared to having cutter bushing - total PITA IMO.

IMO, exact height is not important. But you do want the cutter bushed-out from the spindle top and bottom if it’s a single cutter. So in your example, I wouldn’t be concerned about the 10mm gap

Hi David, on the C3 the spindles come out the top of the machine when you remove the tooling clamp bolt, certainly not a pain at all……Regards, Rod

Wade, I have AD741, I believe the support bar is the same as AD941's. The description on the manual is correct, it is sort of German English :) [image: IMG_3500.JPG] [image: IMG_3499.JPG] James

That would be fine my bushings are on 10 mm increments some longer. You want your package to be tight. Most important thing to pay attention to is everything is clean and no burrs treat these parts

Hello FOG members, Could someone with an AD941 chime in on the proper assembly order for the support bar hardware. ?Felder shows one thing in the manual, but then supplies the bar with these

Thanks for the input, Mac. How about something like a 60mm tall rebate cutter that is a single, solid block. If you had 25mm top hat bushings on both the top and the bottom, would the 10mm gap in the

I don’t know what David does , I have sleeves to fill the space. Example cutter set up that use 4 cutters that are 1.25 or common 40 mm cutters don’t just float in the abyss with no support. I

David B, When buying the top hat bushings, do you have any rules you follow about matching the height of the bushing to the height of the cutter block? For example, if you had bushings that only

Agreed. Why buy both. You can buy groovers for 30mm or 1-1/4. Whitehill sells great adjustable groovers for both bores and they are pretty reasonably priced. wrote:

Sorry to butt in, BUT - I’ve never understood why someone would buy two spindles just to get access to both 30mm and 1?” tooling. Changing spindles is a PITA. Whereas adapting 1?” tooling to a

Hi Ray, there are a few reasons I wouldn’t buy the C3, I went with a B3 & A3 setup 1) the saw rip fence is now the the fence from the K3 Basic, and when mounted on the jointer outfeed table it only