Re: Finger Pulls on Drawer fronts
OK The search for a Capable Process has been pursued, using comments from the FOG Success and repeatability has been achieved The template was modified with a 30 mm overlap from the edge to allow a quick alignment and therefore a faster, more consistent feed rate Two routers used, bothe with template followers set so the one template could be used without changing. The first run was a straight cut bit to hog as much as possible, the second with a finger pull bit to quickly remove the final waste All good, still talking to my daughter BTW, it was recycled hardwood, 60 yrs old from a house I demo'd, it was building euc, therefore mixed south coast eucs, not easily identified. BTW2 Couldnt?see a difference with router speed, bear in mind the bits were 12mm and about 22mm ie small BTW3 Derek- I bought a plane from you many yrs ago- prob E?Bay Regards to all Tnx Bob
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Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
Hi Joel:
For endgrain work, I use the Aigner Contermax for very small furniture parts only. Larger cuts call for the tenon plate, short crosscut fence, and Mac¡¯s clamps, as per David B¡¯s style. That works well for me although I love the look of the Copecrafter product.
I¡¯m writing particularly about your comments on the profile aspect of the joint. I assume you have the Aigner thickness stop? And do you have David B¡¯s micro-adjustment mod? If not, send him lots of money and wine and ask him to make you one! It is worth whatever he asks for it.
I now use the modified Aigner thickness stop as much as possible. It is easier to set up and calibrate, and provides much more reliable results. I have found that the Comatic ¡°narrow¡± wheels are an important accessory for narrower stock profiling. Indeed, the extra addition of an aluminium rail helps with any clearance issues if the stock is thin as well.
I use the Aigner pressure jaws as often as possible as I find it gives me more reliable results compared to just using the feeder alone. Maybe I need more practice with my feeder, but I like the security of added pressure when using the back fence.
David also makes a modification for the pressure jaws so that it fits into the Aigner Centrex. This allows for the jaws to be swung down for use and takes very little time to adjust. The only times I don¡¯t use the jaws with the back fence is for super narrow stock (say 25mm), where the jaws get in the way of the feeder. If you have a Centrex, ask David for that mod too, assuming he is still offering that service.
Your profile and counter-profile look is cool. Good luck.
Warm regards,
Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer
?
? M: 0413 013 115
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I am working on dialing in a "go to" custom profile for the rails and stiles of panels. ?I found that in a cutterhead from Great Lakes with custom knives (see pictures). ?Everything else I have is from Rangate, but I was looking for a custom profile. ?One way to use the shaper for that is shown in this very nice video from David Zaret, and that was referenced in a prior post. For the cope cuts, David uses a sliding table bolted to the shaper along with some very nice mac clamps. ?I have a similar setup but not with the 2 clamp setup at this time (I have 1 that can press down). ?I also have the Aigner basic coping sled that is in the attached picture. I was talking to David today, and he feel the Aigner sled can be a bit inaccurate with some shift as you turn the knob to press the spring clamp to the wood, and the heavy sliding table can be pain to move and setup. ?Since he made the video, he started to pretty much exclusively use something called the CopeCrafter CC-10.? I looked up "copecrafter" here on this forum and could not see it mentioned. ?Curious if anyone has experience with this. For the stick cuts, the plan is to use the Aigner outboard fence. ?One option would be to remove one set of the 4 wheels on the feeder to replace them with spacers so the wheel profile is not so wide and the feeder will fit. ?However, David uses an accessory fence that provides the clearance to allow the feeder to be used without dealing with the wheels. ?That seems easier to me. On thing I noticed is that he does not use the pressure jaws. ?David did not really find them of value for these particular cuts. ?It is my understanding that the very innovative David Best may have come up with an option better than the now discontinued Aigner product. ?I was curious what you all think of what would be the best option for this particular application. ?Obviously not dealing with jaws is the easiest and fastest way as long as there is no compromise in safety and/or accuracy.
<Easy Cope.jpeg><Great Lkes.jpeg><Panel.jpeg><Profile.jpeg><Stiles.jpeg><Jaws.jpeg>
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Thanks Mark.? Thought it was for pressure after the infeed roller.? I like the idea of tape to lift it ever so slightly.? Too many folds to bend it evenly (and that doesn¡¯t seem right anyway).
It is not a pressure plate, it is a chip deflector and that is it¡¯s only purpose. Do NOT push it down , obviously you wouldn¡¯t do that if you wanted it up but if you find that you bent it up too far you might find yourself pushing it back down.?
The reason is, mine was played with and bent to far down or something else, (not by me¡) wood caught it on the way in and pushed it into the cutter head destroying the machine to the point it had to be replaced¡
With that said i think my situation is an extreme case as they were trying to modify the shape slightly. A?slight even lift on it will reduce the squeal , another thing to try is add some Gorilla tape on the inside )behind front as you are looking at it). This will reduce it, did on mine anyways. I would call Felder tech support and have them suggest bending it up before attempting that why you might be covered if anything happens¡
The spec for the distance from the cutter head (vertical) is in your doc¡¯s so you could double check that as well.
On May 18, 2021, at 6:30 PM, Mike S <Mike@...> wrote:
?I searched topics but didn¡¯t find what I was looking for.? New to me J/P wasn¡¯t self feeding (planer).? Not too much figuring to decide there¡¯s too much pressure from the plate (ascertained by removing it).? It¡¯s a complex fold of sheet metal so instinct says to relieve some of its bend.? Better judgement says pause and ask the community.? For what its worth, very very little adjustment in the bolts holding it in place.? Thoughts?? Thanks. ?
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Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
I use the Aigner CounterMax (coping sled) if I¡¯m making a single door. ?I have experienced some inconsistent registration using the Aigner CounterMax at times, but it¡¯s pretty rare. ?It helps if the backer board is softwood (fir or pine) which helps eliminate clamp-slip.
When making several doors, this is the setup I use for cope cutting, employing three of Mac¡¯s clamps (including his new horizontal add-on) and tenoning plate on the X-Roll sliding table:
That¡¯s a lot to set up, which is why I generally make extra stile and rail parts in case one gets mangled in the workflow after the cope cuts. ?I did a whole series of videos on the process I use for frame & panel door work on the shaper that includes recovering from a post-cope-cut snipe that destroyed one of the rails. ?For that recovery I use the Aigner CounterMax in lieu of recreating the above setup. ?You can view the series here: ?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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[Edited Message Follows]
I am working on dialing in a "go to" custom profile for the rails and stiles of panels. ?I found that in a cutterhead from Great Lakes with custom knives (see pictures). ?Everything else I have is from Rangate, but I was looking for a custom profile. ?One way to use the shaper for that is shown in this very nice video from David Zaret, and that was referenced in a prior post. For the cope cuts, David uses a sliding table bolted to the shaper along with some very nice mac clamps. ?I have a similar setup but not with the 2 clamp setup at this time (I have 1 that can press down). ?I also have the Aigner basic coping sled that is in the attached picture. I was talking to David today, and he feel the Aigner sled can be a bit inaccurate with some shift as you turn the knob to press the spring clamp to the wood, and the heavy sliding table can be pain to move and setup. ?Since he made the video, he started to pretty much exclusively use something called the CopeCrafter CC-10.? I looked up "copecrafter" here on this forum and could not see it mentioned. ?Curious if anyone has experience with this. For the stick cuts, the plan is to use the Aigner outboard fence. ?One option would be to remove one set of the 4 wheels on the feeder to replace them with spacers so the wheel profile is not so wide and the feeder will fit. ?However, David uses an accessory fence that provides the clearance to allow the feeder to be used without dealing with the wheels. ?That seems easier to me. On thing I noticed is that he does not use the pressure jaws. ?David did not really find them of value for these particular cuts. ?It is my understanding that the very innovative David Best may have come up with an option better than the now discontinued Aigner product. ?I was curious what you all think of what would be the best option for this particular application. ?Obviously not dealing with jaws is the easiest and fastest way as long as there is no compromise in safety and/or accuracy.
<Easy Cope.jpeg><Great Lkes.jpeg><Panel.jpeg><Profile.jpeg><Stiles.jpeg><Jaws.jpeg>
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It is not a pressure plate, it is a chip deflector and that is it¡¯s only purpose. Do NOT push it down , obviously you wouldn¡¯t do that if you wanted it up but if you find that you bent it up too far you might find yourself pushing it back down.?
The reason is, mine was played with and bent to far down or something else, (not by me¡) wood caught it on the way in and pushed it into the cutter head destroying the machine to the point it had to be replaced¡
With that said i think my situation is an extreme case as they were trying to modify the shape slightly. A?slight even lift on it will reduce the squeal , another thing to try is add some Gorilla tape on the inside )behind front as you are looking at it). This will reduce it, did on mine anyways. I would call Felder tech support and have them suggest bending it up before attempting that why you might be covered if anything happens¡
The spec for the distance from the cutter head (vertical) is in your doc¡¯s so you could double check that as well.
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On May 18, 2021, at 6:30 PM, Mike S <Mike@...> wrote:
?I searched topics but didn¡¯t find what I was looking for. ?New to me J/P wasn¡¯t self feeding (planer). ?Not too much figuring to decide there¡¯s too much pressure from the plate (ascertained by removing it). ?It¡¯s a complex fold of sheet metal so instinct says to relieve some of its bend. ?Better judgement says pause and ask the community. ?For what its worth, very very little adjustment in the bolts holding it in place. ?Thoughts? ?Thanks. ?
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I searched topics but didn¡¯t find what I was looking for. ?New to me J/P wasn¡¯t self feeding (planer). ?Not too much figuring to decide there¡¯s too much pressure from the plate (ascertained by removing it). ?It¡¯s a complex fold of sheet metal so instinct says to relieve some of its bend. ?Better judgement says pause and ask the community. ?For what its worth, very very little adjustment in the bolts holding it in place. ?Thoughts? ?Thanks. ?
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Re: Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
Good resources, thank you for sharing, I have heard of the Copecrafter stuff but never knew the?real name or where to find them,?and it was always from people who "used to work in a cabinet shop". My guess is the Copecrafter became very marketable for shops when the arch-top cabinet era was in full?swing with millwrights hand-working each piece before the CNC market hadn't swooped in and changed the production methods.?
I'm curious if you use any corrugated knife tools or insert-knife styles and how you find them compared to the full-on carbide tooling set? The joints look beautifully executed?here, great example!
[Edited Message Follows]
I am working on dialing in a "go to" custom profile for the rails and stiles of panels.? I found that in a cutterhead from Great Lakes with custom knives (see pictures).? Everything else I have is from Rangate, but I was looking for a custom profile.? One way to use the shaper for that is shown in this very nice video from David Zaret, and that was referenced in a prior post.
For the cope cuts, David uses a sliding table bolted to the shaper along with some very nice mac clamps.? I have a similar setup but not with the 2 clamp setup at this time (I have 1 that can press down).? I also have the Aigner basic coping sled that is in the attached picture. I was talking to David today, and he feel the Aigner sled can be a bit inaccurate with some shift as you turn the knob to press the spring clamp to the wood, and the heavy sliding table can be pain to move and setup.? Since he made the video, he started to pretty much exclusively use something called the CopeCrafter CC-10.?
I looked up "copecrafter" here on this forum and could not see it mentioned.? Curious if anyone has experience with this.
For the stick cuts, the plan is to use the Aigner outboard fence.? One option would be to remove one set of the 4 wheels on the feeder to replace them with spacers so the wheel profile is not so wide and the feeder will fit.? However, David uses an accessory fence that provides the clearance to allow the feeder to be used without dealing with the wheels.? That seems easier to me.
On thing I noticed is that he does not use the pressure jaws.? David did not really find them of value for these particular cuts.? It is my understanding that the very innovative David Best may have come up with an option better than the now discontinued Aigner product.? I was curious what you all think of what would be the best option for this particular application.? Obviously not dealing with jaws is the easiest and fastest way as long as there is no compromise in safety and/or accuracy.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Shaper with CopeCrafter and outboard fence and pressure jaws to make panels
I am working on dialing in a "go to" custom profile for the rails and stiles of panels. ?I found that in a cutterhead from Great Lakes with custom knives (see pictures). ?Everything else I have is from Rangate, but I was looking for a custom profile. ?One way to use the shaper for that is shown in this very nice video from David Zaret, and that was referenced in a prior post.
For the cope cuts, David uses a sliding table bolted to the shaper along with some very nice mac clamps. ?I have a similar setup but not with the 2 clamp setup at this time (I have 1 that can press down). ?I also have the Aigner basic coping sled that is in the attached picture. I was talking to David today, and he feel the Aigner sled can be a bit inaccurate with some shift as you turn the knob to press the spring clamp to the wood, and the heavy sliding table can be pain to move and setup. ?Since he made the video, he started to pretty much exclusively use something called the CopeCrafter CC-10.?
I looked up "copecrafter" here on this forum and could not see it mentioned. ?Curious if anyone has experience with this.
For the stick cuts, the plan is to use the Aigner outboard fence. ?One option would be to remove one set of the 4 wheels on the feeder to replace them with spacers so the wheel profile is not so wide and the feeder will fit. ?However, David uses an accessory fence that provides the clearance to allow the feeder to be used without dealing with the wheels. ?That seems easier to me.
On thing I noticed is that he does not use the pressure jaws. ?David did not really find them of value for these particular cuts. ?It is my understanding that the very innovative David Best may have come up with an option better than the now discontinued Aigner product. ?I was curious what you all think of what would be the best option for this particular application. ?Obviously not dealing with jaws is the easiest and fastest way as long as there is no compromise in safety and/or accuracy.
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Auction: Dallas - Ironwood High Feature Sliding Table Saw
For a change there is good description of the saw features in the listing. Interesting features:
- Integral manual length compensation to keep flip stops accurate at angle
Not sure if this is similar to Felder or something different
- Fence can easily be slid from the front to back position without lifting, for easily adjusting the fence for various cutting operations
If this is referring to just moving the fence and outrigger together then that is pretty much standard. Otherwise, not sure what it means.
Imran
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Joel, Thanks for great post on the making of Shutter louvers. Excellent details on jigs and supplies/suppliers. With all this info I will be making my own shutters. Colin ? ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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From: joelgelman via groups.ioSent: Monday, 17 May 2021 12:27 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [FOG] Shutter louver ? "Sorry, have not fully followed this thread could you explain the staple issue you overcame to a lay person."
I am no expert, and this thread will get buried, but will be available should someone look this up, and so I will share a few thoughts on making shudders.
For the louvers, I am glad I purchased them at Rockler. ?Sure I could have purchased the tooling and made them, but for a one off, easier to buy the louvers than buy tooling (that then will need to be stored). ?They will be pained white. If you happen to want a certain wood grain, well that would be different.
On the rails and stiles, I used Maple but basswood offers the advantage of lighter weight. ?I made my stiles 1 1/16 thick and the rails not as thick. ?That gives a nice profile with the beads on the inside of the stile. ?For the bit, I liked the Rockler profile better than what I could get on my 1 Whitesides beading bits.?
The stiles get the bead and the rails get a rabbet.
For the notch for the control arm on the top rail, the Rockler jig makes that easy. ?
To make the holes on the inside edges of the stiles, Rockler sells a jig, but I think it is easier and faster to mark all of the stiles across where the holes will be, and use a drill press and fence. ?I bought the jig and ended up not using it. ?Time to sell it cheap.
For the joinery, I was very happy with the Mafell and dowels. ?Easy to do dry fits, and subsequent final assembly.
For drilling the holes in the ends of the louvers I used the Rockler jig connected to plywood that had a toggle clamp to secure the wood. ?Very fast accurate drilling.
Rockler does make products to connect control arms to louvers as an alternative to the staples used by the pros. ?I used staples and jigs. ?adding the 1/4 crown x 7/8 staple to the middle of each louver on end was done with the 1 jig shown in the picture. The staple gun has to be positioned to deliver the staple to the right depth and setting a stop allows the staple to be centered.
The more tricky part is connecting the louvers to the control arm. ?It can be done with 1/4 crown by 5/8 staples. ?In this case, I made my own 1/2 x 5/8 control arms out of basswood with roundovers. ?These control arms then fit in a trough of my jig. ?The staple gun is positioned so that when a louver with a staple is set over the control arm, the staple will go through the center of the staple in the louver and attach it to the control arm. ?There seemed to be slight variability in depth, so I make sure the depth of staple penetration was a bit less than final, and then I use a hammer to have the stapes all protrude 1/4 inch. ?Having this consistency was very helpful in making sure that the louvers opened and closed evenly.
For the assembly, I first connected the rails to 1 stile and did a glue up making sure it was square. ?Then, when that dried I fit the louvers (with shudder pins) into the holes and added the other stile. ?Tricky getting the shudder pins to all fit, but doing it in 2 steps makes this way easier.
For the hinges, many options including lift off. ?I found nice polished nickel hinges that were Deltana CH3020U14 that were really nice. ?I mortise them in using a jig from Woodhaven. ?
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Re: Will Felder ever make a spindle moulder like this?
Do they speak English in What??
No... it would be "Do they speak German in What?" ?LOL
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Re: Will Felder ever make a spindle moulder like this?
All kidding aside, Felder retort won¡¯t hold water. Having a fixed table in front for profiling long stock and a sliding table on the side for short xcut is an ideal setup. At least for the work I envision doing on a shaper.
Imran
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On May 17, 2021, at 1:40 PM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? Say "What?" Again!? ? ?Do they speak English in What?? On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 11:33 AM joelgelman via <joelgelman= [email protected]> wrote: I guess many did not get the reference: ?Brett said: "I would guess Felder's retort would be the ability to add outriggers? and crosscut fences to their sliding table system
When I heard "retort" .... it made me think of this
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Will Felder ever make a spindle moulder like this?
Say "What?" Again!? ? ?Do they speak English in What??
On Mon, May 17, 2021 at 11:33 AM joelgelman via <joelgelman= [email protected]> wrote: I guess many did not get the reference: ?Brett said: "I would guess Felder's retort would be the ability to add outriggers? and crosscut fences to their sliding table system
When I heard "retort" .... it made me think of this
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: Will Felder ever make a spindle moulder like this?
I guess many did not get the reference: ?Brett said: "I would guess Felder's retort would be the ability to add outriggers? and crosscut fences to their sliding table system
When I heard "retort" .... it made me think of this
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Re: New F900z = frustration
Okay- they also forgot to pack the 1100mm fence, so when that gets here, that piece will?make more sense.? Jeff
On Sun, May 16, 2021 at 12:23 PM Alex Bowlds < aabj@...> wrote: Looks like the bolt that secures the crosscut fence to the outrigger.
A. ? <Resized_20210515_102822.jpeg> Thank you - Indeed, that is the piece I need. Kit comes with a series of stamped steel plates instead, so I guess I need to find out if there's a different kit for this style fence which includes the aluminum extrusion your images show. I'll get a message in to the shop to see if this can be worked out.? Next question - anyone know what this is for? was rolling around on the pallet, underneath the machine. Must note- packaging was fully intact, so this is loose stuff from factory.? ?thank you,
jeff ? On Sat, May 15, 2021 at 4:05 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Jeff,
Are you missing this bolt-on piece to mount the safety bars (top view pic - bolt on part circled)?
It has been so long that I no longer remember if I got this (bolt on piece) with machine or when I ordered the safety bars.
Front view:
Rear view:
Imran? ?Just received a brand new F900z, and am beyond frustrated.?
One issue at a time. I ordered the safety bar kit from felder shop prior to receiving machine. They have 2 options for mounting, according to the "instruction" sheet, I think(?).
Problem is, I've got fence plates that are mitered on one end, while opposite end has a flat milled into it with threads, which land offset where instructions say to drill holes = they'll be destroyed. Sure looked like those would be an ideal way to fasten the bar holding plates, but clearly not what they're for.?
Parts breakdown shows my fences are the Anschlaglineal 550 mm, part # 430-007-400.?
Is there a way to actually implement these things with this set of fence plates?
Jeff
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Re: New F900z = frustration
Looks like the bolt that secures the crosscut fence to the outrigger.
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On May 15, 2021, at 3:31 PM, Jeff Roltgen <9namkcits@...> wrote:
? <Resized_20210515_102822.jpeg> Thank you - Indeed, that is the piece I need. Kit comes with a series of stamped steel plates instead, so I guess I need to find out if there's a different kit for this style fence which includes the aluminum extrusion your images show. I'll get a message in to the shop to see if this can be worked out.? Next question - anyone know what this is for? was rolling around on the pallet, underneath the machine. Must note- packaging was fully intact, so this is loose stuff from factory.? ?thank you,
jeff ? On Sat, May 15, 2021 at 4:05 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Jeff,
Are you missing this bolt-on piece to mount the safety bars (top view pic - bolt on part circled)?
It has been so long that I no longer remember if I got this (bolt on piece) with machine or when I ordered the safety bars.
Front view:
Rear view:
Imran? ?Just received a brand new F900z, and am beyond frustrated.?
One issue at a time. I ordered the safety bar kit from felder shop prior to receiving machine. They have 2 options for mounting, according to the "instruction" sheet, I think(?).
Problem is, I've got fence plates that are mitered on one end, while opposite end has a flat milled into it with threads, which land offset where instructions say to drill holes = they'll be destroyed. Sure looked like those would be an ideal way to fasten the bar holding plates, but clearly not what they're for.?
Parts breakdown shows my fences are the Anschlaglineal 550 mm, part # 430-007-400.?
Is there a way to actually implement these things with this set of fence plates?
Jeff
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"Sorry, have not fully followed this thread could you explain the staple issue you overcame to a lay person."
I am no expert, and this thread will get buried, but will be available should someone look this up, and so I will share a few thoughts on making shudders.
For the louvers, I am glad I purchased them at Rockler. ?Sure I could have purchased the tooling and made them, but for a one off, easier to buy the louvers than buy tooling (that then will need to be stored). ?They will be pained white. If you happen to want a certain wood grain, well that would be different.
On the rails and stiles, I used Maple but basswood offers the advantage of lighter weight. ?I made my stiles 1 1/16 thick and the rails not as thick. ?That gives a nice profile with the beads on the inside of the stile. ?For the bit, I liked the Rockler profile better than what I could get on my 1 Whitesides beading bits.?
The stiles get the bead and the rails get a rabbet.
For the notch for the control arm on the top rail, the Rockler jig makes that easy. ?
To make the holes on the inside edges of the stiles, Rockler sells a jig, but I think it is easier and faster to mark all of the stiles across where the holes will be, and use a drill press and fence. ?I bought the jig and ended up not using it. ?Time to sell it cheap.
For the joinery, I was very happy with the Mafell and dowels. ?Easy to do dry fits, and subsequent final assembly.
For drilling the holes in the ends of the louvers I used the Rockler jig connected to plywood that had a toggle clamp to secure the wood. ?Very fast accurate drilling.
Rockler does make products to connect control arms to louvers as an alternative to the staples used by the pros. ?I used staples and jigs. ?adding the 1/4 crown x 7/8 staple to the middle of each louver on end was done with the 1 jig shown in the picture. The staple gun has to be positioned to deliver the staple to the right depth and setting a stop allows the staple to be centered.
The more tricky part is connecting the louvers to the control arm. ?It can be done with 1/4 crown by 5/8 staples. ?In this case, I made my own 1/2 x 5/8 control arms out of basswood with roundovers. ?These control arms then fit in a trough of my jig. ?The staple gun is positioned so that when a louver with a staple is set over the control arm, the staple will go through the center of the staple in the louver and attach it to the control arm. ?There seemed to be slight variability in depth, so I make sure the depth of staple penetration was a bit less than final, and then I use a hammer to have the stapes all protrude 1/4 inch. ?Having this consistency was very helpful in making sure that the louvers opened and closed evenly.
For the assembly, I first connected the rails to 1 stile and did a glue up making sure it was square. ?Then, when that dried I fit the louvers (with shudder pins) into the holes and added the other stile. ?Tricky getting the shudder pins to all fit, but doing it in 2 steps makes this way easier.
For the hinges, many options including lift off. ?I found nice polished nickel hinges that were Deltana CH3020U14 that were really nice. ?I mortise them in using a jig from Woodhaven. ?
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Re: Will Felder ever make a spindle moulder like this?
I believe Martin's retort would be: ?"What does a fully equipped T-27 look like?"
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Re: Will Felder ever make a spindle moulder like this?
Yes the sliding table is not in the way if you are doing the profiling.. thats main reason I bought this spindle moulder and whole lot of other upgrades to make life easier on the spindle moulder.??
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Re: Will Felder ever make a spindle moulder like this?
yes. its an interesting design...?
Believe it or not, SCM asked almost 2000 Euro for this feeder support, because I upgraded to a overhead display, I didnt want to pay 2000 Euro for a feeder support, but I have no choice... if I want my overhead display, I must buy this support. almost feel like a ransom.?
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David Luckensmeyer
David P. Best
imran
Albert Lee