Re: Finished up my Copy Stick
²Ñ²¹³¦¡
It¡¯s just another way to get to the same place.?
???
Wade
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On Apr 27, 2025, at 4:16?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? I guess after seeing Wade¡®s post now, I am more confused to me. If I the way, I understood this conversation. It was about making cuts on the left side of the sub blade on the slider to be accurate. If I need to cut something 20 inches wide I want to use fence to the left to make an accurate cut. I take some damage cut it off the length to 20 inches move that 20 inch piece of my stop to the left. Sit next to the stop and touch off on the blade yeah I don¡¯t put a square on it or anything like that I guess I have both accurate enough so I don¡¯t worry about shit like that so is this what we¡¯re talking about is this something totally different? I don¡¯t get it. Confused mac Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 27, 2025, at 5:32?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...> wrote:
?
Hi Wade:
?
Love it! I¡¯d forgotten about the relief cut underneath but you¡¯re right ¨C that keeps the jig from dragging on the slider when moving from crosscut to parallel jig.
?
Mine is lowly Oak. Yours is a definite upgrade in Maple. I look forward to someone posting a copy stick made of Peruvian Walnut or Cocobolo! LOL
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
?Hey Lucky¡
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It¡¯s been great and
extremely accurate every time.
I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...>
wrote:
?
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I¡¯m curious about Mac¡¯s solution. If I¡¯ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to ¡°touch off the blade¡± on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I¡¯m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I¡¯ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this ¡°gizmo¡± is a concept David ¡°Lucky¡± Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I¡¯m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I¡¯m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
|
Re: Finished up my Copy Stick
I guess after seeing Wade¡®s post now, I am more confused to me. If I the way, I understood this conversation. It was about making cuts on the left side of the sub blade on the slider to be accurate. If I need to cut something 20 inches wide I want to use fence to the left to make an accurate cut. I take some damage cut it off the length to 20 inches move that 20 inch piece of my stop to the left. Sit next to the stop and touch off on the blade yeah I don¡¯t put a square on it or anything like that I guess I have both accurate enough so I don¡¯t worry about shit like that so is this what we¡¯re talking about is this something totally different? I don¡¯t get it. Confused mac Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 5:32?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...> wrote:
?
Hi Wade:
?
Love it! I¡¯d forgotten about the relief cut underneath but you¡¯re right ¨C that keeps the jig from dragging on the slider when moving from crosscut to parallel jig.
?
Mine is lowly Oak. Yours is a definite upgrade in Maple. I look forward to someone posting a copy stick made of Peruvian Walnut or Cocobolo! LOL
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
?Hey Lucky¡
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It¡¯s been great and
extremely accurate every time.
I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...>
wrote:
?
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I¡¯m curious about Mac¡¯s solution. If I¡¯ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to ¡°touch off the blade¡± on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I¡¯m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I¡¯ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this ¡°gizmo¡± is a concept David ¡°Lucky¡± Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I¡¯m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I¡¯m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
|
Re: Finished up my Copy Stick
Hi Wade:
?
Love it! I¡¯d forgotten about the relief cut underneath but you¡¯re right ¨C that keeps the jig from dragging on the slider when moving from crosscut to parallel jig.
?
Mine is lowly Oak. Yours is a definite upgrade in Maple. I look forward to someone posting a copy stick made of Peruvian Walnut or Cocobolo! LOL
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
?Hey Lucky¡
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It¡¯s been great and
extremely accurate every time.
I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...>
wrote:
?
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I¡¯m curious about Mac¡¯s solution. If I¡¯ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to ¡°touch off the blade¡± on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I¡¯m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I¡¯ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this ¡°gizmo¡± is a concept David ¡°Lucky¡± Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I¡¯m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I¡¯m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
|
Re: Finished up my Copy Stick
?Hey Lucky¡
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It¡¯s been great and extremely accurate every time. I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
Clean and simple!
Thx again,
Wade
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...> wrote:
?
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I¡¯m curious about Mac¡¯s solution. If I¡¯ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to ¡°touch off the blade¡± on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I¡¯m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I¡¯ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this ¡°gizmo¡± is a concept David ¡°Lucky¡± Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I¡¯m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I¡¯m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
<copy stick.jpg>
|
Re: Finished up my Copy Stick
Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
?
I¡¯m curious about Mac¡¯s solution. If I¡¯ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to ¡°touch off the blade¡± on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I¡¯m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I¡¯ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
?
I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
?
Warm regards,
Lucky
?
Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
?
Mac, this ¡°gizmo¡± is a concept David ¡°Lucky¡± Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
?
I¡¯m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I¡¯m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
?
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
|
Re: Finished up my Copy Stick
Mac, this ¡°gizmo¡± is a concept David ¡°Lucky¡± Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut stop on the crosscut fence. ?I? first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in ??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
I¡¯m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I¡¯m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left??? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...> wrote:
? I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
?
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
?
?
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
?
?
?
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
?
?
?
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
?
?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
?
?
-Rusty
?
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Re: Finished up my Copy Stick
It is great to see how creative people can be!
?
Good ?job, Rusty!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Re: Finished up my Copy Stick
Rusty, simply outstanding. ?I applaud your approach and innovation here. ?Well done. ?I especially like the use of it as a ¡°hook¡± for setting one end of the material position for a straight-line rip without having to mount the entire parallel fence rig. ?Now my head is spinning on that idea for another iteration of this gizmo.
I had a good chuckle when I read the bit about doing it ¡°without spending any money¡± since my typical approach is often just the opposite: ?to see how many new and expensive bits I can order to accomplish the job. ?
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Apr 27, 2025, at 9:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...> wrote:
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
?
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
?
<IMG_0493.JPG>
?
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
?
<IMG_0494.JPG>
?
<IMG_0488.JPG>
?
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
?
<IMG_0483.JPG>
?
<IMG_0482.JPG>
?
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
?
<IMG_0487.JPG>
?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
<IMG_0496.JPG>
?
<IMG_0495.JPG>
?
-Rusty
?
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Re: Finished up my Copy Stick
I¡¯m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I¡¯m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left??? Mac,, Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...> wrote:
? I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
?
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
?
?
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
?
?
?
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
?
?
?
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
?
?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
?
?
-Rusty
?
|
Finished up my Copy Stick
I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
?
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
?
?
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
?
?
?
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
?
?
?
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
?
?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
?
?
?
-Rusty
?
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Re: #forsale K700 Professional and FB 610 (Seattle)
#forsale
What are the details on the shopsabre?
Still available and I'm open to offers.
?
I also have a ShopSabre 23 I'll be selling as well as a Hammer A3-31, Oneida Supercell w/ Nordfab ducting and a Jessem router table.
The ShopSabre is ready to go, but I'm waiting on selling the big items before I sell my jointer and dust collector.
?
Thanks and happy woodworking!
?
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Re: #forsale K700 Professional and FB 610 (Seattle)
#forsale
Still available and I'm open to offers.
?
I also have a ShopSabre 23 I'll be selling as well as a Hammer A3-31, Oneida Supercell w/ Nordfab ducting and a Jessem router table.
The ShopSabre is ready to go, but I'm waiting on selling the big items before I sell my jointer and dust collector.
?
Thanks and happy woodworking!
?
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Re: Lamb Parallel Fence Old Style
I have an F coupling mounting head, but if he wants the old style rod and such, those are long gone. It would be a linear rail now.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, April 26, 2025 at 06:35:47 PM MST, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
I would think that Brian could help you out with that he must still make them for the F coupling, Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years
On Apr 24, 2025, at 3:07?PM, john hejmanowski via groups.io <johnhejmanowski@...> wrote:
? Does anyone have a Lamb Tool Works old style Parallel Fence they would like to sell? I need the F-style.
?
<Lamb parallel fence old style.jpeg> ?
Thanks. John H
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Re: Lamb Parallel Fence Old Style
I would think that Brian could help you out with that he must still make them for the F coupling, Mac,,, Designing and building for 50 years
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On Apr 24, 2025, at 3:07?PM, john hejmanowski via groups.io <johnhejmanowski@...> wrote:
? Does anyone have a Lamb Tool Works old style Parallel Fence they would like to sell? I need the F-style.
?
<Lamb parallel fence old style.jpeg> ?
Thanks. John H
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The cutters and the bushings that fit on the shaft should fit on it pretty snug. I wouldn¡¯t advise using any anti-seize as those parts do not move if you¡¯re sleeves and are so snug that they don¡¯t feel like they move take another sleeve and tap it on top of it. It will loosen it up if that¡¯s not the case and there¡¯s something wrong with the shaft.. I would say it¡¯s OK to use aunti sneeze on the screw if there is a screw or if there is a set screw to hold the bushing on top down and see on the threaded screw would be fine, but not on the shaft my advice is just based on many years of experience being around shapers and never seen anti seeze a shaft. I might be wrong though, and there are other folks on this site that probably have more experience than I do that on this subject. The critical thing on the shaft and the cutter and the bushings is that everything is extremely clean, never dropped and carefully handled because it¡¯s pretty damn easy to bend a shaft with a ding on one of the bushings Cutters gull when they are not properly clamped on the spindle and with Felder¡¯s, making sure the Cap is not seating on the top of the spindle. Mac,, 4 Designing and building for 50 years
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On Apr 26, 2025, at 11:47?AM, Brian Lamb via groups.io <blamb11@...> wrote:
? If you have polished off the galled spots on the shaft and the cutters, then I would add some anti-seize when you put a cutter on there and make sure you lock it down tight and you don't have anything to loose. As long as the shaft isn't bent, which you can put an indicator on that pretty easy to make sure.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, April 26, 2025 at 05:10:52 AM MST, Paul Mc Cann via groups.io <tpmccann@...> wrote:
My CF 731 has a dust collector polycarbonate shroud around the cutter head on the spindle moulder (shaper). This became dislodged and collided with a large rebate (rabbet) cutter , 150mm x 50mm (6" x 2"). Whether this caused the subsequent problem or not but the cutter seized on the spindle shaft. Lots of WD40 and brute force dislodged it but the spacer rings under it would not slide off. I applied cloth strip to the shaft as it rotated under power and this did the trick.
My question will the shaft be damaged beyond use? It rotates smoothly with no detectable wobble by eye when powered up. Will the cutter head be up tthe left as well? I'm tempted to just try it but fear the cutter will just get? seized again. Or will I just buy a new shaft. I have the high speed router shaft as well so I'm not complete;y stuck.
Why do these things always happen in the middle of? a job.
?
Thanks for any assistance
--
Paul Mc Cann
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If you have polished off the galled spots on the shaft and the cutters, then I would add some anti-seize when you put a cutter on there and make sure you lock it down tight and you don't have anything to loose. As long as the shaft isn't bent, which you can put an indicator on that pretty easy to make sure.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Saturday, April 26, 2025 at 05:10:52 AM MST, Paul Mc Cann via groups.io <tpmccann@...> wrote:
My CF 731 has a dust collector polycarbonate shroud around the cutter head on the spindle moulder (shaper). This became dislodged and collided with a large rebate (rabbet) cutter , 150mm x 50mm (6" x 2"). Whether this caused the subsequent problem or not but the cutter seized on the spindle shaft. Lots of WD40 and brute force dislodged it but the spacer rings under it would not slide off. I applied cloth strip to the shaft as it rotated under power and this did the trick.
My question will the shaft be damaged beyond use? It rotates smoothly with no detectable wobble by eye when powered up. Will the cutter head be up tthe left as well? I'm tempted to just try it but fear the cutter will just get? seized again. Or will I just buy a new shaft. I have the high speed router shaft as well so I'm not complete;y stuck.
Why do these things always happen in the middle of? a job.
?
Thanks for any assistance
--
Paul Mc Cann
|
My CF 731 has a dust collector polycarbonate shroud around the cutter head on the spindle moulder (shaper). This became dislodged and collided with a large rebate (rabbet) cutter , 150mm x 50mm (6" x 2"). Whether this caused the subsequent problem or not but the cutter seized on the spindle shaft. Lots of WD40 and brute force dislodged it but the spacer rings under it would not slide off. I applied cloth strip to the shaft as it rotated under power and this did the trick.
My question will the shaft be damaged beyond use? It rotates smoothly with no detectable wobble by eye when powered up. Will the cutter head be up tthe left as well? I'm tempted to just try it but fear the cutter will just get? seized again. Or will I just buy a new shaft. I have the high speed router shaft as well so I'm not complete;y stuck.
Why do these things always happen in the middle of? a job.
?
Thanks for any assistance
--
Paul Mc Cann
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Re: Shaper hose replacment KF 700
Hi Mike,
If the hose exits low on the cabinet, why do you need to mess with the PF. In my case, The hose exits thru the tilt bracket. May be a picture will help.
If you rest the PF on the cast iron there will not be any weight on the F channel interface. This may be okay, as long as the PF and the stand is stable and does not wobble left or right.
I did the opposite which places weight on the F channel and it hung in a stable manner. It does force the lower part of the tilt bracket into the machine but I was still able to pull the plastic cover out. I still don¡¯t know why you need to remove the plastic cover if the hose exits lower on the cabinet.
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On Apr 25, 2025, at 7:55?PM, TMichael WARD via groups.io <tmikko@...> wrote: ? Thanks Imran. My power feeder too is resting .? My 2008 machine also rests on the F rail, but has an. 80 mm hose which is? longer, as it goes down to the bottom edge of the cabinet.
Based on your experience, I'll try to spin the power feeder over to the saw deck, unweight it by lowering to the table, and maybe lift the inner part of the? tube so that when I undo the mounting bolts I can pull it out far enough to free the plastic shroud. Then hopefully can get at the upper hose connection.? And see if I can persuade my 3D printing friends to make me two 80 mm to 2.5" adapters. Mike
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Re: How much pressure does your pin nailer require?
Update:
?
Bought Metabo NP50A, it is $120 on Amazon:
?
At 80 PSI it drove 1 3/8¡± pins consistently. It is advertised to handle up to 2¡± but 1 3/8¡± is the longest I had as that was the limit for the Grex I bought and returned. It drives as short as 1/2¡±.
?
I feel comfortable with keeping this as I have 20 PSI head room and would not care if it did not drive 2¡± all the way.
?
Imran
?
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Re: Shaper hose replacment KF 700
Thanks Imran. My power feeder too is resting .? My 2008 machine also rests on the F rail, but has an. 80 mm hose which is? longer, as it goes down to the bottom edge of the cabinet.
Based on your experience, I'll try to spin the power feeder over to the saw deck, unweight it by lowering to the table, and maybe lift the inner part of the? tube so that when I undo the mounting bolts I can pull it out far enough to free the plastic shroud. Then hopefully can get at the upper hose connection.? And see if I can persuade my 3D printing friends to make me two 80 mm to 2.5" adapters. Mike
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David Luckensmeyer
David P. Best
Brad Wall
imran
TMichael WARD