I¡¯m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I¡¯m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...> wrote:
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I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
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My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
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My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
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One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
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My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm) wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
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This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
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This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
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Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
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-Rusty
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