I guess after seeing Wade¡®s post now, I am more confused to me. If I the way, I understood this conversation. It was about making cuts on the left side of the sub blade on the slider to be accurate.
If I need to cut something 20 inches wide I want to use fence to the left to make an accurate cut. I take some damage cut it off the length to 20 inches move that 20 inch piece of my stop to the left. Sit next to the stop and touch off on the blade yeah I don¡¯t put a square on it or anything like that I guess I have both accurate enough so I don¡¯t worry about shit like that so is this what we¡¯re talking about is this something totally different? I don¡¯t get it.
Confused mac
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Apr 27, 2025, at 5:32?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...> wrote:
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Hi Wade:
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Love it! I¡¯d forgotten about the relief cut underneath but you¡¯re right ¨C that keeps the jig from dragging on the slider when moving from crosscut to parallel jig.
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Mine is lowly Oak. Yours is a definite upgrade in Maple. I look forward to someone posting a copy stick made of Peruvian Walnut or Cocobolo! LOL
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Warm regards,
Lucky
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Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
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?Hey Lucky¡
After our discussion over text message back in April of 2022, you inspired my build for a copy stick, which is just a 5/4x2 solid maple stick with (2) switch magnets on one end of it. ?It¡¯s been great and
extremely accurate every time.
I especially like the tip you gave me to make a relief cut on the underside just after the last magnet. ?So to prevent any slider-table drag on the copy stick. ?Pictures attached.?
On Apr 27, 2025, at 2:37?PM, David Luckensmeyer <david@...>
wrote:
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Thanks David B. Your iteration is certainly better than mine and it is very interesting and relevant to see how others solve the issue. I also love your idea of spending as much money as possible to make fancy
jigs! LOL
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I¡¯m curious about Mac¡¯s solution. If I¡¯ve understood you correctly Mac, you use a spacer to ¡°touch off the blade¡± on the left side at the length required? This sounds very quick indeed but I¡¯m wondering how
you keep the sick perpendicular to the sliding table, and how you avoid some registration errors associated with pushing against carbide teeth? But maybe I¡¯ve misunderstood? I appreciate you sharing tricks like these because there are often faster and better
ways of getting things done.
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I like the idea of registering off a known hole in the casting which is what many have done here. And I can see how that is important for absolute measurements relating to the shaper hood. However, for purposes
of parallel cutting with on the left side of the blade, an absolute measurement is not necessarily (?) required, only a relative setting to ensure that the cross cut stop and the parallel jig are aligned to yield a parallel cut. Hence my simple stick is timber
and just uses magnets. It sits on my machine chassis. Photo attached for refererence.
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Warm regards,
Lucky
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Dr David Luckensmeyer
Designer & Maker
@luckensmeyer
M: 0413 013 115
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Mac, this ¡°gizmo¡± is a concept David ¡°Lucky¡± Luckensmeyer came up with about 10 years ago to assist in getting the position of a parallel fence stop to be exactly the same distance from the blade as the crosscut
stop on the crosscut fence. ?I?first posted about it?on FOG back in 2016. ?The concept is fully discussed in??starting on page 9, and there are additional photos and ideas?. ?
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David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Apr 27, 2025, at 1:18?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
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I¡¯m sorry could you please explain what this gizmo is for? I¡¯m assuming when I talk about a copy stick if I have to match my stop up to my stop to the left for ripping to the left I cut a piece of one by one
the length can you set the touch off on the blade on the handle side stopped to the left???
Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
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On Apr 27, 2025, at 11:58?AM, splinterboy via groups.io <splinterboy@...>
wrote:
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I finally had some time to finish up my Copy Stick. ? Many thanks to those who shared their own versions and especially to David Best who graciously shared multiple iterations of his design.
My KF700 only has the 30" rip capacity so I opted to use the shaper hood mounting holes for my jig. ? Although I could tilt my rip fence out of the way when using the Copy Stick, ?I would lose the calibration
of my DRO and have to reset it each time. ? By using the shaper hood holes, ?I only have to slide my rip fence rearward which does not reset the DRO.
My shaper hood mounting block is very tight and one of the holes is oblong. ?I wanted to be able to easily drop in my Copy Stick so I machined it to suit and used two round pins which give a nice positive
registration. ?However, ?when I first attached the sliding arm to it, it teetered a bit since the rearmost hole is elongated. ? The addition of a magnet at the rear of the base fixed that issue.
One of my goals with these projects is "Can I do without spending any money?". ? I found some aluminum chunks laying around as well as one Kipp lever left over from a previous project. ?The extrusion came
with a used Festool MFT I bought years ago. ?
My shop is extremely narrow at 14' 5" (4.4 meters) so my parallel fence support is almost never mounted to the saw. ? I find that I want to use a Copy Stick mostly on material that is less than 24" (61cm)
wide. ?Anything wider than that seems to have enough bearing on the slider fence to ensure a 90¡ã cut. ?With this in mind, ?I wanted to be able to use the Copy Stick with or without the parallel fence table. ? To do this, I built my jig so the adjustable arm
would be 7/8" (22mm) above the sliding table surface and I made the end stop so it had a flat surface on both the front and back.?
This allows me to align either face with the digital stops on the outrigger crosscut fence.
This way I can use the end stop as a hook for narrow work without having to mount the parallel fence support. ?I set up my stock under the adjustable arm, ?clamp the material in place, ?and simply lift off
the jig before making the cut. ?This works for anything up to 22mm thick but I suppose one could fabricate a version with more clearance underneath for thicker stock. ?
Of course the jig works in the conventional way as well
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