I very much appreciate all the commentary on real-world use. This discussion simply adds to the data and helps keep us all informed.
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Jason, I¡¯ve also found that Livos counter-top oil is far more water repellent then just Livos Kunos (which is what I tested). I wanted to review another 8 products, and the variations, but the editor needed
to keep the review a manageable size for the mag. One thing I¡¯ve found, which people seem to be confirming here, is that more product usually means more durability or water resistance. Hardwax oils are not ¡°supposed¡± to be film finishes, but when applied as
a film, or as a hybrid (one or more coats film and one or more coats rubbed in), there is a noticeable uptick in qualities.
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The exceptions are Rubio and Odie¡¯s Oil which seem fairly ¡°durable¡± buffed only. I completely agree that Odie¡¯s is a lot of work and I¡¯m wary of reports here and elsewhere that it does not last. As for Rubio,
I¡¯m appreciating the feedback here. Agreed Joe, it is a lot of work in fiddly areas and I personally would probably avoid it. Except for staining. Hardwax oils are so easy to use when different tints are needed.
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I have no experience with putting poly over the top of any hardwax oil so I¡¯m reading the various comments here with interest. I personally hate the look of poly, but I get the need to minimise call-backs.
Joe, your comment about varnish takes me back 35 years to a roll-top desk I made with Behlen¡¯s Rock Hard Table Top Varnish. What a brute of a finish to apply but it is still going today.
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There is really not a lot new under the sun. Do yourself a favour and buy Bob Flexner¡¯s book on finishing. It is so well written and clearly backed up by real-world experience. What I love most about his book
is that he encourages ¡°breaking the rules¡± and teaches what works (combos, application, etc.) and what doesn¡¯t work and why. Well worth it.
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I suspect that some or all of the hardwax oils have polymerised oil in them. Polymerised oil is much harder than normal oil. Flexner goes into the details. That said, if I were in the USA I¡¯d use Sutherland
Welles polymerised oil. I used to be able to get it here but not for more than 25 years. It is a fantastic product (or used to be). David Best has recent experience with it. By the way, Odie¡¯s Oil was the only oil that would not harden in the drying tests.
Even several weeks later it was a stick puddle of mess. That tells me it cannot last as there is no resin and no poylmerised oil in them (both of which cure hard).
I know the poly defeats the idea of Rubio but I just don¡¯t want the customer calling me with staining issues. Commercial bar is a tough go. Also going to talk to Todd about Waterlox
now that it was mentioned. The Rubio stain turned out nice. Very laborious to apply especially the moulding and raised panels.
Thankfully you told me about negative hook angle blades when I got my Northfield Unipoint. ?The Unipoint made a great cutoff saw, was very smooth and never bogged down.
On Sep 15, 2024, at 9:53?AM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via groups.io <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
Joe,
Rebuilt my first 94 d in 75 they swing in parallelogram straight line.
They require a negative rake saw blade I have an 18¡± leitz on saw so 5.5¡± cut off capacity.s people in Ohio They probably had a positive rake and poorly set up.?
Any blade over top should be zip to negative few degrees.
The 94 d weights close to 2000# 7.5 hp 3600 direct motor drive.
This is not ?a set up for the average person?
You need mill wright ?skills ,,,lots going on .
I consider the saw very safe as saws go?
So you can just set material against fence were you want ?
Not holding and slam it through !!
I have a clamp on it just cause I can!
I bought this saw in 2002 and and finally got it up and running couple months ago.
Built dust shoot with phenolic inserts so dust is captured of the tip and up the blow pipe .?
Maya stops are finest bar none supper heavy duty very precise And quick to set .
?Mac,,
martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330?cell
Rebuilt my first 94 d in 75 they swing in parallelogram straight line.
They require a negative rake saw blade I have an 18¡± leitz on saw so 5.5¡± cut off capacity.s people in Ohio They probably had a positive rake and poorly set up.?
Any blade over top should be zip to negative few degrees.
The 94 d weights close to 2000# 7.5 hp 3600 direct motor drive.
This is not ?a set up for the average person?
You need mill wright ?skills ,,,lots going on .
I consider the saw very safe as saws go?
So you can just set material against fence were you want ?
Not holding and slam it through !!
I have a clamp on it just cause I can!
I bought this saw in 2002 and and finally got it up and running couple months ago.
Built dust shoot with phenolic inserts so dust is captured of the tip and up the blow pipe .?
Maya stops are finest bar none supper heavy duty very precise And quick to set .
On Sep 15, 2024, at 10:42?AM, bacchus6015 via groups.io <joeinno@...> wrote:
?Mac,
I saw a saw like that one in a big wood shop in Medina, OH and the owner of the shop called it the ¡°Mangler¡±. ?
What made swing saws so dangerous?
Joe
On Sep 15, 2024, at 8:36?AM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via groups.io <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
Hi Pat?
Sure, not trying to hijack your thread. Just thought I¡¯d throw in this tidbit of information people. I really like used their product for a long time. Here¡¯s a picture of Maya on my cut 94 D cut off saw
On Sep 15, 2024, at 9:13?AM, DanielD via groups.io <dan@...> wrote:
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[Edited Message Follows]
I did the same¡ love it! I set the TSO tracks back 3/4¡± from the saw blade (don¡¯t want it touching the aluminum) and attached a replaceable piece of hardwood to trim flush and prevent spelching on the back of the cut. The TSO stops are super easy to recalibrate if the edging is replaced.
Sorry, can¡¯t post pictures, camping in the Rockies right now :-)
I would imagine poly would not adhere to any of these finishes because of the wax component in them, or any other film topcoat for that?matter.?
Lucky, I've been using Livos quite a bit and love it. I use a schedule that includes 3 coats of the Kunos and one or two coats of the countertop oil. I have it on a few dining tables and I have not heard any complaints yet going back a few years. I used to use odie's but it's such a pain to apply in comparison, and it looks terrible on Walnut honestly. I'm curious if you have tried combination of livos and odie's on top?
Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765
-- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
On Sep 15, 2024, at 8:36?AM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression via groups.io <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
Hi Pat?
Sure, not trying to hijack your thread. Just thought I¡¯d throw in this tidbit of information people. I really like used their product for a long time. Here¡¯s a picture of Maya on my cut 94 D cut off saw
On Sep 15, 2024, at 9:13?AM, DanielD via groups.io <dan@...> wrote:
?
[Edited Message Follows]
I did the same¡ love it! I set the TSO tracks back 3/4¡± from the saw blade (don¡¯t want it touching the aluminum) and attached a replaceable piece of hardwood to trim flush and prevent spelching on the back of the cut. The TSO stops are super easy to recalibrate if the edging is replaced.
Sorry, can¡¯t post pictures, camping in the Rockies right now :-)
Sure, not trying to hijack your thread. Just thought I¡¯d throw in this tidbit of information people. I really like used their product for a long time. Here¡¯s a picture of Maya on my cut 94 D cut off saw
On Sep 15, 2024, at 9:13?AM, DanielD via groups.io <dan@...> wrote:
?
[Edited Message Follows]
I did the same¡ love it! I set the TSO tracks back 3/4¡± from the saw blade (don¡¯t want it touching the aluminum) and attached a replaceable piece of hardwood to trim flush and prevent spelching on the back of the cut. The TSO stops are super easy to recalibrate if the edging is replaced.
Sorry, can¡¯t post pictures, camping in the Rockies right now :-)
I did the same¡ love it! I set the TSO tracks back 3/4¡± from the saw blade (don¡¯t want it touching the aluminum) and attached a replaceable piece of hardwood to trim flush and prevent spelching on the back of the cut. The TSO stops are super easy to recalibrate if the edging is replaced.
Sorry, can¡¯t post pictures, camping in the Rockies right now :-)
On Sep 15, 2024, at 7:15?AM, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:
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I have created a 3D file for the Kappa crosscut fence extension. It is a copy of what Felder offers in wood - ?I printed mine in white PLA and it works great. If anyone is interested please PM me and I will email it to you or if someone lets me know how, I will gladly upload it to the files.
I have created a 3D file for the Kappa crosscut fence extension. It is a copy of what Felder offers in wood - ?I printed mine in white PLA and it works great. I have just uploaded it to the files section/3d files. You will find it under the name Endcap.?
That's a clever utilization of the TSO components, I'll have to give that a try myself. One appeal of this setup is that the TSO flip stops are pretty easy to fine-tune and adjust as needed. Thank you for sharing!?
--
Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN
Not sure how I find this thread right now, but someone ask Marc about getting a slider this week and he said he isn¡¯t going to bring one since his core audience would never get one.
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people can still relate to him when he has a fancy planer, because it the same thing as box planer, but a slider is a different animal and require different operations, so he sticks with American cabinet saws.
My original Fritz & Franz jig I used Incra stops which worked but had several drawbacks. Decided to build version 2.0 using TSO stops and I think I am really going to like the new setup.
I know the poly defeats the idea of Rubio but I just don¡¯t want the customer calling me with staining issues. Commercial bar is a tough go. Also going to talk to Todd about Waterlox now that it was mentioned. The Rubio stain turned out nice. Very laborious to apply especially the moulding and raised panels.
Do you wait until the Rubio is cured fully to apply a poly top coat?? I¡¯ve considered putting poly over some pieces that get a lot of wear but the manufacturers don¡¯t recommend it.?
For osmo I¡¯ve found that using their extra thin clear product before a coat of polyx yields great results, especially on walnut.?
On Sat, Sep 14, 2024 at 6:12?AM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
Hi Lucky,
I have only been using the Saicos premium hard wax oil on my home projects and the yurt I built for my son. I know they have other products but that¡¯s the only one I have used. I used some Osmo years ago and it seemed to work the same but certainly have not put the research into this like you have. When I first started using these I felt like the build and protection was not so good wiping that first coat off. Hence going to leaving a heavy coat on the first application. It does dry fairly coarse and needs sanding with 320. The 320 is a hold over from my hard finish days but getting the sheen and feel I like. I just use the microfiber roller they sell and leaving the material on without wiping doesn¡¯t seem like the type roller matters much.
I¡¯m not using Hardwax oil for any exterior work. I have been using the Saicos UV exterior oil for this applied the same way. I have tried several of the European exterior oils and also US made Heritage Oil. It used to be made locally. They are all similar, with exterior oil the recoating and maintenance is necessary depending on exposure.
Now for my bar project I¡¯m using Rubio only because I like the way their stains go on. Not a fan of staining anything but an old fashioned bar calls for it. And the customer is always right! Or should we say - he with the gold makes the rules! The color is coming out good but the one coat just doesn¡¯t seem like enough. I plan to use the sheen additive for a second coat. I did not see any reason to use the hardener since it will be a while before it is even installed.
I talked to a guy that came to Alpine a few years ago that was using Rubio. He has since gone from a one man shop to a full on architectural shop with employees. He said he was getting a lot of callback on Rubio finished horizontal work. He started adding N3 Nano to the topcoat and said that helped some but said he finally set up a spray booth using Poly and conversion varnish.
For my bar tops I am going to go over the Rubio with Poly. Bars I built 20 to 30 years ago we finishe the bar tops with poly and easy to refinish when necessary. Conversion varnish is tougher but very difficult to refinish in the field.
I've been really happy with Rubio the few times I've used it so far. Especially their hybrid wood protector that I used on a large outdoor planter. It has been sitting fully exposed to all 4 seasons here in the North East for around 18 months now and hasn't shown any signs of failure.
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I'm considering using the hybrid wood protector instead of the regular oil for an interior bathroom vanity project, which will no doubt see more water than other furniture.