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1997 Engine harness
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Is the engine in the 1997 EVC the same as the 1997 Rialta ? I need an engine harness for my EVC and the only one I've found is from a '97 Rialta. and I was told this wouldn't work. Anyone confirm that? Anyone know where I can find one? I've tried all the usual places: Samba, ebay, Europian and domestic used VW parts. Thanks, Elden '97 EVC 108K mi
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1995 Service Training Manual uploaded
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That Eurovan Service Training Manual I mentioned awhile ago has been scanned and uploaded to /g/eurovanupdate/files/VW%20Eurovan%20Service%20Training%20Manual%20%201995.pdf (I'm not sure if the system sends out any notice or not.) I note that it's missing two pages which are listed in the Table of Contents as being about the Auxiliary Heater (Canada only). I double-checked - the copy I have does not have these pages.
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Leisure battery not charging from shore power
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95 EVC. My leisure battery is not charging while on shore power. I get a good voltage to the leisure battery leads when the engine is running. I am getting power to the 110v outlets when on shore power. Can anyone please suggest what the problem might be and how to solve it? Many thanks in advance.
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File /VW Eurovan Service Training Manual 1995.pdf uploaded
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#file-notice
The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. /VW Eurovan Service Training Manual 1995.pdf By: Rick Gordon <rgordon0@...> Description: A copy of a scan of the 1995 Service Training Manual. Note that it's missing two pages, that coincide with "Auxiliary Heater (Canada Only)".
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Eurovan repair manual
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A few weeks ago, someone was offering to put a PDF of a Euro van repair manual online. Did that happen and if so, where can I get a hold of it? Thank you
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Battery hold down clamp
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Just noted the clamp that hold the engine battery secure iis gone. Don't know how ,when, or wear. No luck finding a replacement. Tried a Dorman Universal 00086 but its grip on the battery is pretty tenuous. Any help out there? E 97 EVC 130K
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Good afternoon Yinz, I finished, finally, my fridge replacement project. Here's a write up on what I did. -Pete 2000 EVC, ~210k miles
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1995 Eurovan vacuum lines?
I have some very thin lines(3) that look to be vacuum (?) lines that are broken. I need to replace them. I also would like to know what their function is. Does anyone have a drawing of these lines and what their function is? I also need to replace the spark plug wires. Where might I find those? Thank you Domokos Hadnagy
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EVC Interior Refresh
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Hi Yinz, I did a quick write up on freshening up the interior of my EVC. I hope this is useful. -Pete 2000 EVC, ~210k miles
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Set of original (from 2000 Multivan) 15" aluminium wheels for sale, US $100 for the whole set (plus shipping if necessary). Can include correct (19 mm) wheel bolts. Ottawa, Canada.
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Does anybody have a cheat sheet or good starting point to check the most important measuring blocks for a 1993 Eurovan? I've just done some maintenance, and I'd like to check some data against expected values. I have a Bentley, but to be honest, I can barely make sense of it most of the time.
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Looking for Bug Screen Frame
The screen inside the frame on the sliding door of my 2001 Eurovan Weekender was detaching. I've stored the frame/screen in my basement with the plans to take care of it one day. A recent trip to Wenatchee State Park convinced me it's time to take care of this. I reattached the screen & took the frame/screen out to my van & quickly discovered that I have two left frames. I bought this van used in Austin, TX back in 2016, so not sure why I didn't pick up on this sooner. Anyway, I'm searching for either the full right screen/frame or at least the frame. Again this is for the area on the sliding door. Thanks in advance.
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Eurovan repair in Colorado Springs
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Someone in another thread asked about EV repair in CS. I was about to recommend this guy but when I checked the website it says they only work on vehicles between the years 2009-2024. He used to work on our 2000 EVC when we lived near the Springs and he was great. If you can't find anyone else, maybe he'll make an exception. https://baxtersautomotive.com/ We also had our van lifted and leveled by this place and they did a great job as well: https://aspenautoclinic.com/ Mike
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As summer approaches, it's time for the 2024 edition of this topic. This is a continuation of /g/eurovanupdate/topic/98063894#163821 As far as I know, this remains unsolved, though we had some intriguing findings in 2023: My 2000 EVC has a custom retrofit GM vapor canister, which did help the symptoms quite a bit: I've had no more fumes venting in hot weather at moderate altitudes (up to about 5000 feet). However, I still had substantial venting in very extreme conditions (105F+ temperatures, quick drive up to 7500 feet elevation). Conclusion: a worn out OEM vapor canister may be part of the problem, but is not the only problem. In summer 2023, both David and I had very similar symptoms in almost the same location: northbound Highway 395, filling up with 91 octane gasoline in one of the little towns (Bishop, Lone pine...). His symptoms are worse than mine, which could be since I have a new vapor canister. Also, I repeated the same drive in in the southbound direction, but filled up with ethanol-free gasoline, and had absolutely zero problems in similar conditions. Conclusion: perhaps the gasoline blend or age matters? Another clue I found during one of the extreme venting episodes: after releasing all pressure, if I started the engine again, fumes quickly came out again. Stop engine: fumes stop immediately. The gasoline temperature in the tank was 120F when that was happening. A few people have pointed to the little metal tab inside the filler neck - the gas cap presses on this when closed to open the breather valve. Bending this a little bit might help? I think a few people have said "maybe" but nothing conclusive yet. Anyone have more data? Mike 2000 EVC
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need to check for power at window/mirror connectors
I'm finally after years of mirrors not working tackling the job to fix them because now the windows are either working or not. So before I get into the harness I want to check for power at the connectors going to the main switch. I have the door card off and the switch removed and connectors unplugged- the orange and two black ones- and want to know what pins to check for power on each one. This would tell me if the harness had a break right? Also is there a way to check the master switch with a meter a Samba poster took the switches apart and found corrosion and cleaned them up and got things working. Thanks for any help. Spencer 02mvwk
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Brakes dragging? ABS issues? Resolved?
As noted elsewhere, I found that a front brake hose had been rubbing a bit so I replaced both sides before hitting the road. Once on the road, it sometimes felt like I had the emergency brake on and was really dragging to get up to speed. I wondered what I had done by changing the hoses. First time it happened I stopped and checked and did notice the right front caliper was pulsing. I remembered that I had clipped off a zip tie holding on the pad sensor connector and wondering why it was there. But now I realized that the connector retention clip was broken so I put on another zip tie and the pulsing stopped. I figured that was it and kept on down the road with no trouble for an hour or so. It was hot. While on I-10 I started getting something else that seemed more like a flat tire almost or regular bumps in the road but it was neither. I also noticed it was not coasting at all and felt it was still a brake issue - ABS?- and searched desperately to find a fuse I could pull to kill the ABS. I found the fuse block in the battery compartment and pulled the two 30 amps, leaving the bigger 50 amp ABS in. not even clear which one it is. It was really hot working there and with the engine on and battery cover off it was blowing all the heated engine fan air fully and directly into the battery area. Thing is, I store some stuff there beside the ABS and had grown tired of pulling and replacing the plastic battery cover for access. So, I had decided to leave the battery cover off for this trip. Anyway, fuses pulled, ABS hopefully disabled, we moved on down the road. Well, an hour later, with ABS warning on due to pulled fuses I started up a pass but the brakes were dragging again so I stopped again. I checked to see if I could roll in neutral on a hill and could not. Replaced the fuses (had not helped and frustrated, I hit the brakes hard a few times while sitting in park and something released. The car could now roll again while in neutral and we went over the pass with plenty of power as usual. Next stop, now thinking of the heated air I had felt blasting the ABS unit and not just the battery, I scavenged some cardboard and fashioned a battery cover to block hot air blowing in. I had never thought before that not only would heat leak from the engine side but the entirel cooling flow would actually route directly into the battery ABS area with the engine cover on and battery cover off. So, with the makeshift battery cover replacement in place, we finished a long day drive with no further incident that day or the next. So far, so good. Conclusion: The loose pad sensor connector was giving intermittent signals throwing a code (I had read that by the way). But the real issue was a hot ABS that heated up and misbehaved but then cooled down when I turned off the engine long enough. So, if you keep the engine cover on, keep the battery cover on, for hot climates at least. I had actually briefly checked online before leaving without it and found T4 owners often leave off battery covers BUT those T4s are in England. Not the same as the Southwest USA in Summer!
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2.5 TDI flywheel - parts and install
I have a 99 Eurovan with a 2.5 TDI (ACV) and 5spd manual. I am looking for a mechanic to install it. Pretty sure I have solid lead on the parts, but open to other sources. If anyone has suggestions on mechanics willing to do this please let me know. I am in Bozeman, Montana and willing to drive less than 1,000 miles or so. THANKS
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Maximum Photo Size
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I recently sent an email to the group with a photo - the photo was about 2400x1900 pixels and 8MB in size. I know people are on this email list with slow/limited connections, and that size is too big. However, it looks like Groups.IO automatically resized the photo down to about 500 pixels. In my opinion, this is too small to be useful. I feel like the resizing was more generous in the past. If this is adjustable, can this be set a bit higher, say 1024x1024? Mike
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Evap Filter 7D0201849A
It appears the part # is actually 7D0201849A (3rd digit is a zero, not an Oh). I see some references to the "A" part number Here but mine clearly has a "B" part number. It's not clear if either part is for sale - BusDepot lists it as special order. I've emailed them to check. I wonder if the previous owner had replaced this before on mine?
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On the vent side of the evap system in my 2000 EVC, there is a mysterious cylinder with part number (possibly VDO 201 849 B ? It's hard to read the first letter). One side of it plugs into the left frame rail, and the other side goes to a T which then goes to the LDP (Leak Detection Pump) and N115 evap vent valve. I found a diagram which (for the 2001 models) which calls it an Air Filter for Diagnostic Pump It probably filters the incoming air to the evap vapor system (when air is flowing in) also as a way to deflect overflow vapors out of sight (by "hiding" them in the left frame of the van) when fumes are flowing out. What if this filter is partially clogged? 1. When the N80 purges vapor from the canister, some clean air will enter the system, and vapor would still flow through, but at a lower amount. This is likely enough to pass the N80 tests, so you don't get a CEL. 2. When the LDP runs a test, some air can still pass, so the leak down tests should pass. No CEL 3. However, on a hot & high day, the flow restriction could prevent the Evap system from purging enough vapors, and as a result the tank pressure would keep climbing, leading to the symptoms we are having. As a test, I disconnected the vent hose from the canister, and tried blowing and sucking. I'm able to get air going through the filter, but it does feel as if there's a moderate amount of restriction. The part is NLA, of course. If the only function is to make sure the LDP is sucking clean air when it runs a test, it seems like replacing this with a small air filter would be a good replacement. Thoughts? Mike
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