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eurovan camper electrical problem ?
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felixproulx
I have a electrical problem with my 95 Eurovan Winnebago conversion.
Most of the electrical accessories in the back works on the coach battery when the engine is not running. The problem is that when i turn the ignition to start the VW, the fuse next to the coach battery blow up. If i try to put a new fuse when the engine is running the fuse blow up also and i don't have any electricity in the back of the vehicle. Any idea ? Thanks Felix |
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John Stamford
Felix.... it sounds like you have a problem with your converter which switches the coach battery source between 120 VAC and 12 VDC (engine). I would take the van to an Auto Electric shop to pinpoint the problem. If that's the problem, you can but the part and install it yourself.
felixproulx <felixproulx@...> wrote: I have a electrical problem with my 95 Eurovan Winnebago conversion. Most of the electrical accessories in the back works on the coach battery when the engine is not running. The problem is that when i turn the ignition to start the VW, the fuse next to the coach battery blow up. If i try to put a new fuse when the engine is running the fuse blow up also and i don't have any electricity in the back of the vehicle. Any idea ? Thanks Felix |
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A couple of questions:
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Are you saying that as long as you don't start the engine, the house battery system works correctly? And only when you start the engine, does the fuse blow? Does the car run fine after the fuse blows, except for no house power? Are you replacing the fuse with the required 30 amp? If the answer to the first three questions are "yes", I would be suspicious of the battery isolator on the firewall. When you turn the ignition on, you are connecting the starting battery circuit with the house circuit......it sounds like you are getting a short at that point. Pete --- In ev_update@..., "felixproulx" <felixproulx@...> wrote:
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--- In ev_update@..., "felixproulx" <felixproulx@...> wrote:
Among other things that have been suggetsed to check, make sure that the house battery polarity connections are correct. Black is positive and green is ground. Richard Cox 2002HD Rialta |
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felixproulx
Hi Pete and thanks for your help.
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You described the problem perfectly. I have looked on the electric diagrams on the Winnebago internet site, It looks like it should be a 40amp fuse just next to the coach battery. So I have replace the blown 30 amp for a 40 amp and it blows too. So I guess your right about the "battery isolator". But what is it ? where is it ? can i fix that my self ? Thanks again Felix A. --- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...> wrote:
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felixproulx
Thanks Richard,
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The polarity is good... --- In ev_update@..., "rwcnec" <r.w.cox@...> wrote:
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jack_son_73
Felix -
Have you checked the wiring at front battery? Winnie added a [Black] wire from front bat [+] through a small silver [automatic reset] 30 A breaker, then to one side of combiner 'solenoid' relay on firewall. This is about 2.5' of cable. If someone had front bat wires off for service, the Black [+] could have been installed on the WRONG side of the front Bat. I added Red electrical tape to code Winnie's Black [+] leads RED, near front & rear batteries, to avoid confusion. It's easy to think "Black = Negative" when hooking charger or jumper cables. I knew about the Winnie 'house wiring code' - but after my first cross-polarity sparks, I used Red & Black tape. When working in converter & tie-point area, & DC cables above Norcold, I re-coded those also. Winnie didn't crimp one of the lugs on my front breaker. If the lugs or wires [or the breaker internally] are shorted to ground, this could be your problem. If you have a test meter: leave ignition off. If the rear fuse is still blown, just leave it now. With Voltmeter [-] lead on front bat [-], check for [+] 12 V at [+] bat terminal. See if +12 is on both breaker studs, & also at the large relay terminal. The OTHER large relay terminal is wired to an insulated junction 'tie point' under closet, about 12" in front of the Converter/Charger unit. From there it goes to the house bat [+]. You shouldn't have to go intothe converter area. You should have found the problem by now. If the wires & lugs look OK, but you have 0 V on the front bat large terminal on relay, you can remove the Black Winnie wire from the front bat [+]. With ignition still off, verify 0V on breaker terminals, then check resistance to ground. It should read open circuit, or a few megohms. If you see a short, or only a few ohms, remove mounting hardware from the breaker, & see if the short clears. The contact arm in the relay is the next suspect, if the short was not in breaker area. Lift relay from ground, to see if that clears your short [or low resistance to ground]. If you don't have a meter, but you have a 12 V test lamp, contact me, and I will lead you through a lamp test. Please let us know what you find. Jack_son ================================================== --In ev_update@..., "felixproulx" <felixproulx@...> wrote: wrote: conversion. coachMost of the electrical accessories in the back works on the when ibattery when the engine is not running. The problem is that batteryturn the ignition to start the VW, the fuse next to the coach theblow up. If i try to put a new fuse when the engine is running of thefuse blow up also and i don't have any electricity in the back thatvehicle.Among other things that have been suggetsed to check, make sure positivethe house battery polarity connections are correct. Black is and green is ground. |
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jack_son_73
Felix -
On my long post, I forgot to add that I have an '03 EVC. I believe most of the basic Winnie wiring is the same. The front breaker & combiner relay are easy to see, or change, after removing front bat cover. Don't replace the relay with the 12 V similar starter relay from an auto store. They aren't made for continuous service. Once you isolate the problem, we can locate parts. It should be an easy do-it-yourself project. Jack_son '03 EVC ================================================== --In ev_update@..., "felixproulx" <felixproulx@...> wrote: a 40amp fuse just next to the coach battery. So I have replace theblown 30 amp for a 40 amp and it blows too. So I guess your right aboutthe "battery isolator". But what is it ? where is it ? can i fix that myhouse engine,battery system works correctly? And only when you start the exceptdoes the fuse blow? Does the car run fine after the fuse blows, thefor no house power? theignition on, you are connecting the starting battery circuit with wrote:house circuit......it sounds like you are getting a short at that conversion. coachMost of the electrical accessories in the back works on the when ibattery when the engine is not running. The problem is that batteryturn the ignition to start the VW, the fuse next to the coach theblow up. If i try to put a new fuse when the engine is running of thefuse blow up also and i don't have any electricity in the back vehicle. |
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jack_son_73
John -
Just to keep from misleading someone, the converter- charger is a regulated output charger to bring up the house bat, & rear 12V loads up to ~ 13.8V. The front & rear bats are two isolated systems, until the ignition switch is turned on. This energizes the combiner, or isolator, relay. Feliz didn't mention the 115 V AC charger, & - until he clears the short, I hope he leaves it off. Therear bat has enough power to blow big fuses, so it should be OK for now. If he connects his 115 V AC line, & turns key ON, he will short the converter-charger, too. Regards, Jack_son '03 EVC ================================================== --In ev_update@..., John Stamford <jastamford@...> wrote: which switches the coach battery source between 120 VAC and 12 VDC (engine). I would take the van to an Auto Electric shop to pinpoint the problem. If that's the problem, you can but the part and install it yourself. problem with my 95 Eurovan Winnebago conversion. Most of the electrical accessories in the back works on the coachbattery blow up. If i try to put a new fuse when the engine is running thethe vehicle. |
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felixproulx
Hi Jack_son and everyone,
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All the advice was amazingly helpful. The wiring at front battery was wrong, the black wire was on the [-] I put it on the [+] and everything is working find ! One more question : there is no 30amp breaker between the battery and the 'solenoid' on my EVC 95. does anybody knows if it is supposed to be like that or if it has been removed ? In witch case I guess i should put a fuse there ? Jack_son, is there a fuse on your EVC between the solenoid and the rear isolated stud (The OTHER large relay terminal is wired to an insulated junction 'tie point' under closet...) On my van the wire pass just next to the fuse panel (left side from steering wheel)and there is a 30 amp fuse there on the wire. Maybe they have change this fuse for the breaker on the other side of the solenoid !? Anyway, so far every thing seems to work, thanks again. Now I am going to try to figure out the Norcold that does not work. Thanks, thanks, thanks !!! --- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@...> wrote:
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jack_son_73
Felix -
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Glad I could help. I know my post was too long, but I tried to cover all possibilities. Some guys feel uncomfortable working on electrical problems, so I gave you the details you needed. My '03 EVC has a 30 Amp auto-reset breaker between the front bat & solenoid. It's 30A. With rear fuse 40A, the 30A should trip first. if the load excess is on rear bat. With no fuse or breaker in the relay-to-front-bat line, a short between the relay & rear bat would open the rear fuse, & protect rear bat, but with ignition switch on. the wire would get very hot from the short all the way to front bat. battery. I have lost 3 cars in car fires [none related to wiring], so maybe I worry too much! Some auto parts houses sell a little 30A auto- reset breaker, for $5 or $10 bucks. I will look around on line, and see what I can find, too. I need another one, for a different project. You may find solder or crimp lugs at auto stores. If your wire will reach the firewall, you should be able to cut it, & add a breaker. When I crimp lugs, I like to add solder, too, when they carry high current. Either is OK. On a poor crimp, you can see wire move in the lug. Then solder. The schematic you saw may have shown wire size. I would guess #4, or #6. Did you consider adding the Red tape? This may have prevented your problem. Electricians often use incorrect color wires, & add tape of proper color at both ends to avoid confusion later. {Not sure if this meets code everywhere.} I taped every inch of exposed Winnie + & - wires, & left a string tag that "+ is RED", in case a VW or Winnie tech is ever "confused". VW is so unfamiliar with EVCs, it may help them to find + = Red recoded cables. Glad you found it. Jack_son ================================================== ----- Original Message -----
From: felixproulx To: ev_update@... Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 12:01 PM Subject: [ev_update] Re: eurovan camper electrical problem ? Hi Jack_son and everyone, All the advice was amazingly helpful. The wiring at front battery was wrong, the black wire was on the [-] I put it on the [+] and everything is working find ! One more question : there is no 30amp breaker between the battery and the 'solenoid' on my EVC 95. does anybody knows if it is supposed to be like that or if it has been removed ? In witch case I guess i should put a fuse there ? Jack_son, is there a fuse on your EVC between the solenoid and the rear isolated stud (The OTHER large relay terminal is wired to an insulated junction 'tie point' under closet...) On my van the wire pass just next to the fuse panel (left side from steering wheel)and there is a 30 amp fuse there on the wire. Maybe they have change this fuse for the breaker on the other side of the solenoid !? Anyway, so far every thing seems to work, thanks again. Now I am going to try to figure out the Norcold that does not work. Thanks, thanks, thanks !!! |
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