Hi Jack_son and everyone,
All the advice was amazingly helpful. The wiring at front battery was
wrong, the black wire was on the [-] I put it on the [+] and
everything is working find !
One more question : there is no 30amp breaker between the battery and
the 'solenoid' on my EVC 95. does anybody knows if it is supposed to
be like that or if it has been removed ? In witch case I guess i
should put a fuse there ?
Jack_son, is there a fuse on your EVC between the solenoid and the
rear isolated stud (The OTHER large relay terminal is wired to an
insulated junction 'tie point' under closet...) On my van the wire
pass just next to the fuse panel (left side from steering wheel)and
there is a 30 amp fuse there on the wire. Maybe they have change this
fuse for the breaker on the other side of the solenoid !?
Anyway, so far every thing seems to work, thanks again.
Now I am going to try to figure out the Norcold that does not work.
Thanks, thanks, thanks !!!
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--- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@...> wrote:
Felix -
Have you checked the wiring at front battery?
Winnie added a [Black] wire from front bat [+]
through a small silver [automatic reset] 30 A
breaker, then to one side of combiner 'solenoid'
relay on firewall. This is about 2.5' of cable.
If someone had front bat wires off for service, the
Black [+] could have been installed on the WRONG
side of the front Bat. I added Red electrical tape
to code Winnie's Black [+] leads RED, near front &
rear batteries, to avoid confusion. It's easy to
think "Black = Negative" when hooking charger or
jumper cables. I knew about the Winnie 'house
wiring code' - but after my first cross-polarity
sparks, I used Red & Black tape.
When working in converter & tie-point area, & DC
cables above Norcold, I re-coded those also.
Winnie didn't crimp one of the lugs on my front
breaker. If the lugs or wires [or the breaker
internally] are shorted to ground, this could be
your problem.
If you have a test meter: leave ignition off. If
the rear fuse is still blown, just leave it now.
With Voltmeter [-] lead on front bat [-], check for
[+] 12 V at [+] bat terminal. See if +12 is on both
breaker studs, & also at the large relay terminal.
The OTHER large relay terminal is wired to an
insulated junction 'tie point' under closet, about
12" in front of the Converter/Charger unit. From
there it goes to the house bat [+]. You shouldn't
have to go intothe converter area.
You should have found the problem by now. If the
wires & lugs look OK, but you have 0 V on the
front bat large terminal on relay, you can remove
the Black Winnie wire from the front bat [+]. With
ignition still off, verify 0V on breaker terminals,
then check resistance to ground. It should read
open circuit, or a few megohms. If you see a short,
or only a few ohms, remove mounting hardware from
the breaker, & see if the short clears.
The contact arm in the relay is the next suspect,
if the short was not in breaker area. Lift relay
from ground, to see if that clears your short
[or low resistance to ground].
If you don't have a meter, but you have a 12 V test
lamp, contact me, and I will lead you through a
lamp test.
Please let us know what you find.
Jack_son
==================================================
--In ev_update@..., "felixproulx" <felixproulx@> wrote:
Thanks Richard,
The polarity is good...
--- In ev_update@..., "rwcnec" <r.w.cox@> wrote:
--- In ev_update@..., "felixproulx" <felixproulx@>
wrote:
I have a electrical problem with my 95 Eurovan Winnebago
conversion.
Most of the electrical accessories in the back works on the
coach
battery when the engine is not running. The problem is that
when i
turn the ignition to start the VW, the fuse next to the coach
battery
blow up. If i try to put a new fuse when the engine is running
the
fuse blow up also and i don't have any electricity in the back
of the
vehicle.
Any idea ?
Thanks
Felix
Among other things that have been suggetsed to check, make sure
that
the house battery polarity connections are correct. Black is
positive
and green is ground.
Richard Cox
2002HD Rialta
