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Re: 2000 cough question???

Tim Kirwan
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Add me to the list of coughers on my '99 EV MV, 20K miles. It just happened for the first time yesterday. 60 mph, level road. The check engine light came on for less than a second.

I'm going to bring it in to the dealer just to get the event logged while under warranty. I'll let you know what they say.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: louwsma@... [mailto:louwsma@...]
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 9:43 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] 2000 cough question???


I have had the same thing happen on my 99 and was wondering what it was. I
thought it was a patch of "bad gas". It has happened twice, exactly as you
describe. I have less than 3M miles on mine. Jim


Re: 93 Eurovan

Kathie Strachan
 

The seller is asking $4,495. I thought it was a great price. I saw the EV's
at a car show years ago and loved it but had a hard time with the price =-)
This EV is in pretty good shape. Cosmetically, the interior needs a little
help. The seat could use a good steam cleaning and it was owned by a smoker,
but I thought I could get it to smell better eventually. It has front & rear
AC, all the room I need & more and is an AT which is why I need a new car
(hurt knee~no more 5 sp for me)

I've decided not to buy...just too risky for us. My husband does basic
things like oil changes and such, but dosen't like to tinker with cars as a
hobby. If anyone is interested in it, let me know!

Thanks everyone for the advice. It was a great help!

kgervais@... wrote:

Kathie,

I agree. these are high maintenance and high cost to maintain if you
don't do the work yourself.

With that many miles, the EV would be in the shop and you be going to
the bank fora loan to get it out.

Out of curiosity, how mauc was the dealer willing to sell it for???

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Capital One. 9.9% Fixed thereafter!

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Re: tightening torque?

punch
 

"Ercole, Chris" wrote:

Does anyone know the tightening torque for the wheel bolts of my '93 EV
MV?
The info should be in your owners manual, if you have one.
If my memory is correct, it is rather high, 118 foot lb.


Sunroof Dimensions

 

Cheryl, thanks a lot for measuring your factory sunroof for me. At
24 1/2x13, that's even smaller than the 16x32 I was sold. Perhaps the
place that installed mine really couldn't put the 36" one in, as they
said. I still doubt that, though, looking at my roof. Please, if
there is anyone on this list who has installed an after-market
sunroof in their Eurovan, will you please post as soon as possible
the size that was installed. Thanks very much, Kathy


Re: Warning about testing the Cooling fans...

Michael G. McCarthy
 

The point was to test if the fan was defective, that's all. ?Take a heavy wire and connect the ground side with some sort of solid connection between the fan and the battery. ?Take another heavy wire, connect it solidly to the positive side of the battery. ?Then, take the remaining end and momentarily touch it to the remaining connection on the fan. ?If the fan fires up or remains dead, your diagnosis is complete. ?You don't have to run the fan for a long period of time and risk taxing the current carrying capacity of your temporary set up. ?A few seconds is all it takes to determine if the fan spins or not.

50 amps at 12volts is 600watts. ?That's about the current draw of a large screen TV. ?That's a lot compared to most current draws in a car, but it's hardly "unsafe" if you use heavy wires. ?The point is just to test the fan, nothing more.

Don't make it more complicated than it has to be. ?KISS.


Mike
----------
From: Jack Lowry
To: "'ev_update@...'"
Subject: [ev_update] Warning about testing the Cooling fans...
Date: Sun, May 21, 2000, 10:23 PM


Be Very Very Very Careful when trying to test a fan by wiring 12 volts directly
from the battery.

The fans draw a lot of current (thats why the fuses are 50 amps for each fan)
If yor use a wire heavy enough to power a fan and get it wrong by connecting
to ground lead of a fan, the wire will probaly weld itself at both ends,
get really hot and if you are lucky the wire will brun through.

If you are not lucky the wire will continue to pass a lot of current,
causing the battery to generate a lot of hydrogen.

One little spark possibly form the wire finally burning through, or you
cutting the wire, and you'll have a problem that's rivaled only by
fuel leaking over the distributor.

I'd suggest that you follow the troubleshooting guide that I've put
togather. Provide my guide will help you test the fans, medium speed relays,
high speed relays, resistors and fuses. The only part that can't be
easily verified (ask me I've been there) is the low speed relay,
this relay has two sets of contacts one for each fan. There is
two of everything else fans, fuses, medium speed relays, high speed relays,
and resistors.




-----Original Message-----
From: Michael G. McCarthy [mailto:mgmccarthy@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 8:40 PM
To: ev_update@...; ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Cooling fans...


You can test the fan motor by wiring 12 volts to it from the battery. ?Use a
heavy wire, and you should be able to tell which terminal is plus and which
is minus (although I don't think it matters; if you get it backwards the fan
will just spin backwards).

The big resistors contol fan speed. ?If they are crumbling I wouldn't trust
they are passing electrons properly, although they might.

Thermo-switches are BLUE, and make sure the connectors are cleaning and
actually making connections before ruling them out. ?There are two on
cooling hose coming off the front of the engine between number 1 and 2
cylinders.




----------
From: "John F. Gladu" <grungy@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Cooling fans...
Date: Sun, May 21, 2000, 8:25 PM


Where were we?
Driver's side fan runs (both speeds).
Passenger side fan does not run.

The fuses are good.
My VW guru suggested checking the resistors behind the panel under the
left headlight. ?I did - both are crumbling, but still passing electrons.
I'm going to check on replacing this assembly.

I may have to bite the bullet and buy a Bentley manual - I can only guess
at the wiring without one.

I still haven't figured out where the actual thermoswitch is that
regulates fan operation.

The louvers are opening properly on the back of the fan housing.

How can I test just the fan motor?
Can I just connect the two terminals on the fan to a battery?
What do the big resistors do?

bcnu - Grungy
'93 Eudoravan MV


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Warning about testing the Cooling fans...

Jack Lowry
 

Be Very Very Very Careful when trying to test a fan by wiring 12 volts directly
from the battery.

The fans draw a lot of current (thats why the fuses are 50 amps for each fan)
If yor use a wire heavy enough to power a fan and get it wrong by connecting
to ground lead of a fan, the wire will probaly weld itself at both ends,
get really hot and if you are lucky the wire will brun through.

If you are not lucky the wire will continue to pass a lot of current,
causing the battery to generate a lot of hydrogen.

One little spark possibly form the wire finally burning through, or you
cutting the wire, and you'll have a problem that's rivaled only by
fuel leaking over the distributor.

I'd suggest that you follow the troubleshooting guide that I've put
togather. Provide my guide will help you test the fans, medium speed relays,
high speed relays, resistors and fuses. The only part that can't be
easily verified (ask me I've been there) is the low speed relay,
this relay has two sets of contacts one for each fan. There is
two of everything else fans, fuses, medium speed relays, high speed relays,
and resistors.

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael G. McCarthy [mailto:mgmccarthy@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 8:40 PM
To: ev_update@...; ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Cooling fans...


You can test the fan motor by wiring 12 volts to it from the battery. Use a
heavy wire, and you should be able to tell which terminal is plus and which
is minus (although I don't think it matters; if you get it backwards the fan
will just spin backwards).

The big resistors contol fan speed. If they are crumbling I wouldn't trust
they are passing electrons properly, although they might.

Thermo-switches are BLUE, and make sure the connectors are cleaning and
actually making connections before ruling them out. There are two on
cooling hose coming off the front of the engine between number 1 and 2
cylinders.




----------
From: "John F. Gladu" <grungy@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Cooling fans...
Date: Sun, May 21, 2000, 8:25 PM


Where were we?
Driver's side fan runs (both speeds).
Passenger side fan does not run.

The fuses are good.
My VW guru suggested checking the resistors behind the panel under the
left headlight. I did - both are crumbling, but still passing electrons.
I'm going to check on replacing this assembly.

I may have to bite the bullet and buy a Bentley manual - I can only guess
at the wiring without one.

I still haven't figured out where the actual thermoswitch is that
regulates fan operation.

The louvers are opening properly on the back of the fan housing.

How can I test just the fan motor?
Can I just connect the two terminals on the fan to a battery?
What do the big resistors do?

bcnu - Grungy
'93 Eudoravan MV


------------------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
Avoid the lines and visit avis.com for quick and easy online
reservations. Enjoy a compact car nationwide for only $29 a day!
Click here for more details.

------------------------------------------------------------------------


Re: Cooling fans...

Michael G. McCarthy
 

You can test the fan motor by wiring 12 volts to it from the battery. Use a
heavy wire, and you should be able to tell which terminal is plus and which
is minus (although I don't think it matters; if you get it backwards the fan
will just spin backwards).

The big resistors contol fan speed. If they are crumbling I wouldn't trust
they are passing electrons properly, although they might.

Thermo-switches are BLUE, and make sure the connectors are cleaning and
actually making connections before ruling them out. There are two on
cooling hose coming off the front of the engine between number 1 and 2
cylinders.




----------
From: "John F. Gladu" <grungy@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Cooling fans...
Date: Sun, May 21, 2000, 8:25 PM


Where were we?
Driver's side fan runs (both speeds).
Passenger side fan does not run.

The fuses are good.
My VW guru suggested checking the resistors behind the panel under the
left headlight. I did - both are crumbling, but still passing electrons.
I'm going to check on replacing this assembly.

I may have to bite the bullet and buy a Bentley manual - I can only guess
at the wiring without one.

I still haven't figured out where the actual thermoswitch is that
regulates fan operation.

The louvers are opening properly on the back of the fan housing.

How can I test just the fan motor?
Can I just connect the two terminals on the fan to a battery?
What do the big resistors do?

bcnu - Grungy
'93 Eudoravan MV


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Start a free email group today at

------------------------------------------------------------------------


Re: 93 Eurovan

 

Kathie,

I agree. these are high maintenance and high cost to maintain if you
don't do the work yourself.

With that many miles, the EV would be in the shop and you be going to
the bank fora loan to get it out.

Out of curiosity, how mauc was the dealer willing to sell it for???


Re: Cooling fans...

Michael G. McCarthy
 

The fuses are good.
My VW guru suggested checking the resistors behind the panel under the
left headlight. ?I did - both are crumbling, but still passing electrons.
I'm going to check on replacing this assembly.

----------
From: "John F. Gladu" To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Cooling fans...
Date: Sun, May 21, 2000, 8:25 PM


Where were we?
Driver's side fan runs (both speeds).
Passenger side fan does not run.

The fuses are good.
My VW guru suggested checking the resistors behind the panel under the
left headlight. ?I did - both are crumbling, but still passing electrons.
I'm going to check on replacing this assembly.

I may have to bite the bullet and buy a Bentley manual - I can only guess
at the wiring without one.

I still haven't figured out where the actual thermoswitch is that
regulates fan operation.

The louvers are opening properly on the back of the fan housing.

How can I test just the fan motor?
Can I just connect the two terminals on the fan to a battery?
What do the big resistors do?

bcnu - Grungy
'93 Eudoravan MV


------------------------------------------------------------------------
Did you know you're using eGroups now?
Start a free email group today at
http://click.egroups.com/1/3947/3/_/1963/_/958955109/
------------------------------------------------------------------------




Cooling fans...

John F. Gladu
 

Where were we?
Driver's side fan runs (both speeds).
Passenger side fan does not run.

The fuses are good.
My VW guru suggested checking the resistors behind the panel under the
left headlight. I did - both are crumbling, but still passing electrons.
I'm going to check on replacing this assembly.

I may have to bite the bullet and buy a Bentley manual - I can only guess
at the wiring without one.

I still haven't figured out where the actual thermoswitch is that
regulates fan operation.

The louvers are opening properly on the back of the fan housing.

How can I test just the fan motor?
Can I just connect the two terminals on the fan to a battery?
What do the big resistors do?

bcnu - Grungy
'93 Eudoravan MV


Re: Eurovan Refridge

Gary Clendening
 

Welcome to the New EVC world,

All of us experienced the "burning in" world of breaking in your Norcoldy.
After a while the smell will go. Ours had but a little smell, but some of
the early members complained a lot. As to the continuous heat; that's the
heat being removed from the fridge...it's cooling the stuff by removing it's
heat. A good check to see if the fridge is working right.
When using propane I've found if the van is not level enough I wont get much
heat out of the back. Make sure that bubble is almost all in the circle of
your level fellow Eurobagoers!!

Gary from Maine
Gary and Belle Clendening
garyc@...
'97 EVC: "Flying Carpet"
207-622-0631


Re: Engine Fault Codes?

 

Don,
What is the procedure for 5 cylinder EV's with a check engine light?
How are the codes interpreted?
Marve
'95 EVC

--- In ev_update@..., "Donald Gibbons" <gibbonsnc@y...> wrote:
Reading fault codes is easy or hard depending on the year/equipment.

Early 5 cylinder EV's - These have no check engine light. The only
way is with a scanner like VAG 1551, a very expensive item.

Late 5 cylinder EV's - These HAVE a check engine light. By using a
simple jumper wire (sometimes supplied with the car!) you can watch
the check engine light flash the "blink" codes.

VR6 EV's - These all have ODB II control systems that need a VAG
1551
or better to read codes. There are a few cable/software based
aftermarket scanners that hook up to your home computer but these
cost several hundred $.


Re: Eurovan Refridge

Laurel
 

I just used the refrigerator in my 2000 EV for the first time and
could not believe how much heat and "hot" smell it generated.

Our 99 EVC has a slight odor when used on propane without much
ventilation, but it's not bad. I'm curious as to why you would use Blue
Ice to cool the fridge instead of the recommended 110volt?


I just got back from a camping weekend in my 2000 EVC and noticed
a serious electrical "hot smell" after plugging the refridge in to
the 110...once when I had it plugged in overnight before leaving home
and again when connected at a campground. (????) Any ideas?


Re: Eurovan Refridge

Russ Bishop
 

I just used the refrigerator in my 2000 EV for the first time and
could not believe how much heat and "hot" smell it generated.

After cooling the refrigerator down with Blue Ice for a day, I used
Our 99 EVC has a slight odor when used on propane without much
ventilation, but it's not bad. I'm curious as to why you would use Blue
Ice to cool the fridge instead of the recommended 110volt?

Russ Bishop
Ventura, CA


Eurovan Refridge

 

I just used the refrigerator in my 2000 EV for the first time and
could not believe how much heat and "hot" smell it generated.

After cooling the refrigerator down with Blue Ice for a day, I used
both the propane and 12v power sources over the course of 3 days. The
smell got a little better, but I could always feel heat coming from
behind the unit.

Is this normal? Any solutions to avoid heating an already hot vehicle
when running the refrigerator in the summer?

Thanks,

KL


FW: 93 Eurovan

Michael G. McCarthy
 


r=0&t=0

There's a very nice looking 1993 with 117K miles and the bid is a mere
$4000! It's in Houston (no snow/salt).



r=0&t=0

There's another 1993 with a motivated seller (relocating by 6/17) and 110K
miles.


If you watch eBay for a month you will probably find ten 93's worth a look.
Inspecting a vehicle at a distance can be tricky, but if you are not
mechanically inclined inspecting one standing right in front of you can be
tricky too! <grin>. My guess is that you'd find knowledgeble EV'ers all
over the country via this list who'd probably be willing to go take a look
at a vehicle in their neighborhood and give you an opinion.

I bought mine in Houston. It had 75K miles and was left homeless after a
divorce. The divorcing family left it to their mechanic to sell it for
them, so I was able to have a meaningful exchange of emails and telephone
conversations. I traveled to Houston and drove it back, and it worked out
very well. If you do end up traveling any substantial distance on your
maiden trip, make sure a competant mechanic gives it the once over (brakes,
tires, fluids, etc) before you head for the freeway.


Mike

---------- From: Kathie Strachan <scotnkat@...> To: Moe
<walters@...>, "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@...>
Subject: Re: [ev_update] 93 Eurovan Date: Sun, May 21, 2000, 1:41 PM


Thanks for all the input this is hard decision for us because I like to keep
vehicles for 5-10 years and this would be a perfect vehicle for what we want
to do the next 5-10 years. Our daughters are 8 & 10 and girl scouts so this
would be great.

the total story on the 93 ev is that it was traded to this same dealer one
year ago by the first owner with 104 k the a businesman bought it and
proceeded to put 85 k on in one year. I am not a mechanic but am not stupid
when it comes to cars. I think the engine is ok what I am concerned about
is the AT.

Again thanks for your replies

Moe wrote:

I'm inclined to agree with the post that suggests that you look for an EV >
with fewer miles. They are trucks, but 190k miles will be expensive unless >
you know that the van has had new motor, transmission, cv joints.... > > And
the "north american" spec parts (AC, power windows etc.) are not built > to
truck standards but are "after thoughts" and expensive to fix: the AC >
often requires major surgery at 60k mile intervals (~$1200). > > Moe
Walters, 93EV ~100k, 99 Passat > > > From: "Kathie " <scotnkat@...>
Reply-To: ev_update@... > > Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 15:09:30 -0000 >
To: ev_update@... > > Subject: [ev_update] 93 Eurovan > > > > Hi! > >
We are considering buying a 93 Eurovan. We really like it but it has > >
190,000 miles. It seems to be in great shape. The dealer said it was > >
owned by someone who knew how to maintain it, but drove a lot > >
(obviously). The dealer has a good rep in town, so we have no reason > > to
disbelieve him. He also said Eurovans are built to last a long > > time > >
so the age and mileage on it do not have the same significance as it > >
would to another make. It's Jamaican Aqua, it's loaded~all options > >
including AT, it is a GL model. However, we are not mechanically > >
inclined and don't wish to purchase something that isn't reliable. > > Can >
anyone give any comments or advice? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Scott & Kat > > >
------------------------------------------------------------------------ >
Save 75% on Products! > > Find incredible deals on overstocked items with Free
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Re: Engine Fault Codes, late 5 cyl?

Donald Gibbons
 

OK, it does not matter if the engine is running or not (I have done
this both ways) Open the cover to the fuse area, just to the left of
the steering wheel. Along the top edge of the opening you should have
two electrical connectors, a white one and a black one, each with two
connection points inside. Simply make a jumper wire that connects the
bottom wire of the white connector to the bottome wire of the black
connector. Putting this jumper wire in place should make the check
engine light come on and after a few seconds it will start to blink a
code.

This will give you codes to see what the ECU thinks is wrong but you
can not reset anything.


Re: T4 Paradise

M & T Benne
 

- Der Colorado ( now we are getting serious. This looks like the front of
the Eurovan pasted onto a camper. Like the Rialta I believe.)

Did you see an actual Colarado? How was the interior space, roomy or
cramped? Any details would be appreciated. I am considering importing one
of these into Canada. Only problem is I must wait a few more years until
the first ones built are 15 years old and then it will be an antique and
importation permited.


Tobi


Re: Engine Fault Codes, late 5 cyl?

M & T Benne
 


Late 5 cylinder EV's - These HAVE a check engine light. By using a
simple jumper wire (sometimes supplied with the car!) you can watch
the check engine light flash the "blink" codes.

This would be the engine I have. Could you explain how this is done. Can
the codes be reset without the VW scan tool?

Thanks, Tobi


Re: NOW I understand (tires)!

 

In a message dated 5/21/2000 1:44:33 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
scharold@... writes:

<< Sean,

I run currently 215/65 - 15.

Here a little table:

Tire Size Comparison
Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile
Difference
205/65-15 5.2in 12.7in 25.5in 80.1in 791
0.0%
215/65-15 5.5in 13.0in 26.0in 81.7in 776
2.0%
205/70-15 5.6in 13.1in 26.3in 82.6in 767
3.2%
215/70-15 5.9in 13.4in 26.9in 84.4in 751
5.3%
205/75-15 6.1in 13.6in 27.1in 85.2in 744
6.3%
215/75-15 6.3in 13.8in 27.7in 87.0in 728
8.6%

I used this calculator:
>>

Very interesting and informative. Thanks for the pertinent real data. IMHO
a very good reference and site for all evgroup readers wanting to clearly and
accurately compare tire sizes in choosing replacement tires. ty