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Re: how to secure the sliding door against breaking and entering
forsalexxx wrote:
My van was broken into and I intend to prevent it from happeningI would guess that the *appearance* of security is more important than actual security. If your van looks hard to break into, the thief won't try and will pick another target. This could include an obvious security system (with stickers and blinking lights), large obvious extra locks, perhaps even bars or wire mesh on the windows (I've seen stick-on plastic tinting film that had printed images of the little wires that they embed in security glass). |
Re: [VW-Eurovan] Questions about my new VW Eurovan Westy
Caroline,
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Welcome. Fuel indicator is a common problem and the fix is here: _ () Start up: It should start immediately and reliably. It could be spark plugs, plug wires, or other things electrical? When were these last replaced? When it starts and is cold, how does it idle? Roughly or smoothly? The radio does go into SAFE mode when ever power is removed, such as when disconnecting the battery. You will need the radio code which is normally stored in the Operator's Manual. If not there and the previous owner can't/won't provide it, the radio must come out to get its serial number. Once you have that, a VW dealer can determine the code. I recommend you also look at the EV_Update site. It has more members contributing. Bob W. In a message dated 5/31/2008 1:31:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
cstengl@... writes: Hi everyone, I'm new to the group and new to owning a VW Eurovan. It's a 92 Westfalia camper. I bought it on Vancouver Island just a week ago. It's only had one owner and the only repairs on record are glass related. It has 156 000 KM on it. Not too bad for a 92. Since driving it off the lot I've discovered a couple of problems (already!) that I was hoping you could help me with. Any advice about what to do would be appreciated. I do have a warranty that will cover the major things. My fuel indicator seems to be messed up. The needle fluctuates from 1/4 tank to 3/4 tank within five minutes, going up and down throughout the trip. I don't mean just the normal rise of the needle after starting the motor. I mean during a longer drive. The van doesn't always start reliably which I wonder if this is normal for a Eurovan because the manual specifically describes how to deal with it. Try the starter, wait thirty seconds, try again. It seems to not like to start after sitting in the sun for a while, or just sitting for a while. Usually it starts on the second try. Should I be concerned about this? The other problem is my stereo doesn't work at all. I can't play tapes. I can't play the radio. I put in a converter kit to play mp3s from my iPod and the stereo wouldn't play it and wouldn't eject the tape component either. I had to carefully pry it out again. The display says something like "SAF e" on it. My dad was saying that perhaps it's one of those stereos that have a code, where if the stereo is disconnected from the power, like due to theft for example, it won't play, making it useless until you enter the correct code. It appears to be the original stereo for the vehicle. It says Heidelberg on it and it has a little picture of a key on it, something to do with the locks on the doors that all lock automatically when you turn the key in the driver or passenger door lock. The windows have the same key image on them by the lock. Where can I get a stereo manual? Has anyone had this problem and were you able to fix it? If I had to replace this stereo would my key locking mechanism no longer work? Also I noticed a sticker about some kind of pre entry security system and I think it might be related to the radio too because there's a little red LED light on the stereo that goes on after I've locked the doors. Looks like an alarm or something. Please advise on what I should do about this. I sure miss having tunes while I'm driving! I'm looking forward to doing lots of traveling and camping in my new van. My health makes camping difficult but the van will make it easy. Hurray! Anyone have some suggestions for great road trips in the west coast region? How about some road trip stories or website links? Thanks everyone! Cheers Caroline ****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. () |
Re: garage clearance
Stuart MacMillan
The only way to find the clearance is to measure it. Park the van on a
level surface, place your step ladder along side, and hold a straight piece of pipe or 2x4 at least 5' long on the top across the vent cover. Put a level on it, and use a tape measure to determine the distance to the ground. My '97 comes in at 6' 7", and I don't go into anything under 7', but 6' 8" should work, as long as it's level and you don't bounce. But you only have an inch, and remember to close the vent cover! Stuart '97 EVC _____ From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf Of Rick Gordon Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 10:16 PM To: ev_update@... Subject: [ev_update] garage clearance i should know this, but i don't, so... what's the min ceiling clearance for a '95 EVC? anyone know if it will fit into the underground Central Plaza Garage at the UW (in Seattle)? |
Re: garage clearance
Larry Schellhase
If a garage is marked 6'8" or higher it usually works for my 99 EVC. However there are some garages marked 6'8" that scrape the roof. I have also found that it differs with tire size, a garage that worked just fine with Continental tires no longer works with the Agilis.
Larry LA, CA Rick Gordon <rgordon@...> wrote: i should know this, but i don't, so... what's the min ceiling clearance for a '95 EVC? anyone know if it will fit into the underground Central Plaza Garage at the UW (in Seattle)? |
Free 8' Catalina awning in Seattle
Stuart MacMillan
Anyone who wants this can have it. It's been used once, but riding around
on my EVC for 10 years. First time I used it I broke off a leg, and it's too much trouble for me to fix it (I have a new leg). If you want to tackle this repair, you can come and get it! Stupid me, I sold my Vanagon Westy with a brand new Shady Boy on it because I didn't think I needed it. Boy, was I wrong! Stuart '97 EVC |
Re: 2002 engine removal: Need some help and thoughts
Stuart MacMillan
Randall,
Could you provide some more info on the spline tools and your source? I'm going to get them. Thanks! Stuart '97 EVC _____ From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf Of coniferproducts Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 8:33 AM To: ev_update@... Subject: [ev_update] Re: 2002 engine removal: Need some help and thoughts I recently had mine out to do the timing chains. Hope these tips help and I'm more than happy to answer questions. Questions:Yes, but you need to have good high ones. I bought the Goodyear brand from Sam's because they seem to be well built and I'v used them alot. And I would recommend having lots of 4x4 blocks so that you can extend the lift of your jacks. I had to have the front of the van as high as the ht. of the jack plus the complete ht. of the motor! So, I ended up building platforms under the jack stands (like house movers do) to get enough height. BE SAFE! 2. I must/should remove the radiator?Yes, really easy but messy. 3. Tranny needs to come out with the motor?Yes, much better to do it this way in my opinion. 4. Do I need to separate the lower ball joints to get the motor out?You need to remove the axles. Look at the Bentley procedure and pay complete attention to the special "spline" tools called for. I was able to get them from a company in Boulder,CO but you can also get them from SnapOn. You WILL need these tools for several things and they are uncommon sizes. I wish I would have bought a complete set. You will also need to replace all of the bolts for the axles per the Bentley manual. It's not really that hard if you follow procedure. 5. What things should I replace while I'm doing this? (The engineWith that many miles, I would consider putting in new CVs on both left and right axles. Because you have to take them out anyway. Also I will second the recommendation to replace the tranny. I have to do this whole procedure again in the future and I'm not looking forward to it. 6. How many hours should I allocate for this?It took me 4 days by myself but I was being fairly methodical. Next time should be faster. ;-) 7. What special tools do I need?In addition to the splined wrenches that I mentioned above, I welded a support for the bottom of the motor similar to what the factory uses. Of course since I didn't have technical drawings it isn't exact but it does hold the engine tranny combo quite well (and more importantly stable) while you are lowering them out. I made it so that it would fit in the top hole of a Goodyear rolling jack (Sam's Club). This is a decent jack and I could have used 2, but I had access to a couple of pallet jacks also. Depending on your location and how long you would need it I might be willing to lend it out. I did all of the disconnects and then got the jack under the motor (with the special support) at maximum lift. I then lowered the motor/tranny and lifted the van after so that I could roll them right out the front. This is where it would have helped to have another jack! In addition, take more pictures than I did!!!! Especially the wiring/hose connections. I marked every connection with different colors/symbols but when it came time to put everything back in I found that the routing of the wires was not so self explanatory as it seemed when I was disconnecting. Rule 1: If you think you have enough pictures, take some more! Randal 2000 EVC |
Re: Yakima or Thule Cargo or Rocket Box on Pop Top
by the time you drill the roof for brackets, and buy the rest of the
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set-up, (just the thule 21cu ft box is around $600,) you have spent a lot of money, especially if you dont need to use it much. i have a soft 10cuft canvas contraption the attaches with pull straps to the roof. you could easily put 2 up there if you needed 20cuft. i only use it for dog food, camping stuff, and other cheap items that take up a lotof space, but it works. i always would add a broomstick or 2 to keep the roof from crushing me. --- In ev_update@..., "jeff_westy" <k-and-j.drexel@...> wrote:
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how to secure the sliding door against breaking and entering
my van was broken into and i intend to prevent it from happening
again. it seems easy to run a cable thru the two front door handles and lock it. but how to prevent opening the slider? i have been thinking about some sort of cable thru the slider window and passenger front window. or thru the two door handles . or some sort of bolt thru the body that can be locked. has anybody done this? i have seem some pretty heavy duty external locks on german vans headed thru south america, but i didnt want to go that far. |
Re: 2002 engine removal: Need some help and thoughts
coniferproducts
I got the motor at a screaming deal. It is a VW factory reman, forDoes your motor have a sister? ;-) It is good to know that I can extract this thing with jack stands.The support for holding the motor is indispensable. I don't know how you would lower and control the engine/tranny without it. Randal 2000 EVC |
Re: Check Engine light mystery
Jonathon (absent for a while),
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Get thee to Autozone store (preferably on a slow weekday) and ask them to read the codes for free. Let us know what they are. Bob W. In a message dated 5/30/2008 11:36:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jonathan@... writes: Well, strange this came up, since I was going to write about this myself about our 2001 EV MV WK. Our check engine light has come on from time to time, and I determined that maybe it was a bad tank of gas. I (sadly) always use premium. Ussually if I run the tank close to empty and then fill up, the situation would clear up and no more CEL. Even with the CEL on, the van seems to run just fine. The only thing that I notice is that imediately after ignition, the engine revs just a bit fast for a second before settling in at a normal idle. Interestingly, this seems to happen in the spring, I'm guessing when refinerys change there recepie to a summer blend. Also interesting, is that it would mostly happen if I bought my gas in Indiana. I live in Chicago, but camp in the spring in central IN. This year has been a different story. The check engine light came on after filling up with gas in Indiana, so I ran that down to just about empty. We had a real rainy humid day here that coincided with that tank of gas being at just about empty, and when I started the van, the idle was just awful. It sound and felt like three of the six six cylynders were firing. Went to my gas station filled up with premium, problem with idling solved but CEL stil on. So my situation as it stands now is that the light is off (for now), van running fine. I called my VW service dept and they to mentioned the gas cap and that if I took the cap off and then back on, it still might take 48 hours for the computer to reset. I was also told that I could drive it as long as the light wasn't "blinking". Their charge for hooking it up to the diagnostics was $140.00 which I went ouch. Any ideas? Jonathan (absent for a while) ****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. () |
Re: Check Engine light mystery
Lee,
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Try Autozone to get the codes read for free. They may have the ability to also decode some of the EV codes and tell you what is wrong. But do write down the code(s), let us know what they are, and we can make some recommendations, some of which may solve the problem. Bob W. In a message dated 5/30/2008 10:13:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
leeahart@... writes: cactuspaws wrote: I have a 2002 EV Weekender. A few months ago the check engine lightSame here! I also have a 2002 EV MV. Last fall, the "check engine" light came on for a few weeks. I drove to the dealer, and it turned off before they looked at it. Again, they said there were no diagnostics as to why it was on (they charged me $85 to "check codes" anyway). It certainly did not affect my gas mileage. I have a little book in the van that I record all maintenance, repairs, and even gas purchases and amounts. The van ran perfectly fine, and my gas mileage was unaffected while the "check engine" light was on. The light just came back on again (exactly 3000 miles after it was at the dealer's the last time). Is it possible that they programmed it to turn on? Maybe it means, "Boat payment due; turn on revenue enhancement light" :-) -- ****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. () |
Re: 1993 Eurovan Antenna torn off
Try Europarts-sd dot com: $65 plus shipping.
Bob W. goody434 <_goody434@... (mailto:goody434@...) > wrote: Just got my Antenna broken off by a disgruntled fan at Dodger Stadium over a high school championship game. I was not present, but I assume it was by the losing team fan. Does anyone have any idea of the cost of a new Factory one? Any problems with installation? I am bummed. Richg ****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. () |
Re: 2000 camper winnebago has anyone removed the closet and rear area
thanks jim,
I guess I'm going to have to try it and see. Other than a junk yard do you happen to know where I might pick up a rear window to install if this goes as planned? --- In ev_update@..., Jim White <jim@...> wrote: number of fairly late model (2001?) EVCs running around in just thatcondition. Some Seattle-based coffee company turned EVCs into mobile cafes byespresso machine in their place.machine was removed, but don't recall any details apart from I knew Ididn't want to deal with the project involved in reconstruction!Wolfie (97 EVC) looks like with the plastic panel removed because youhave to do that in order to access it. It was a bit of a jolt to see thatsince I sleep head-to-the-rear the cast iron burner box is just inchesaway. I suppose it could be considered a good thing because that way ifcloset area widerleaving only the stove, sink, refrigerator component to enable a hasbed. in this model I am afraid to do so because of what I might hose ofanyone already tried this? I want to keep the external shower course. |
Re: amsoil ATF??
Adam,
I changed my 93 EV to Amsoil ATF at about 80K miles, which made the transmission operate much more smoothly. I plan to change my 2002 EVMV at the next change. Amsoil ATF is the right fluid for the VW application and I think is better than OEM. See the Amsoil Technical Support response below. It is hard to flush and if done as 3 successive changes should get most of it, 85% as you stated. The Amsoil is compatible with the remainder of the original fluid. Jonathan ________________________________________ From: Mail TechService [mailto:tech@...] Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:48 AM To: ROHRER\, JONATHAN P Subject: RE: Technical Service Contact Form Jonathan; AMSOIL Universal ATF is the correct fluid to use where Esso Type LT 71141 is called for by the manufacturer. It is compatible with this fluid, so a mixture is OK. You might also want to look at for methods of changing the fluid. Thank you for this opportunity to respond to your question(s). As always, please feel free to contact us again if we can be of further assistance. Sincerely, Byron Selbrede Technical Services The accuracy of this e-mail response is dependent upon the information provided. AMSOIL INC. is not responsible for wrong recommendations that were based on inaccurate or incomplete information. From: Jonathan Rohrer Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 9:44 PM To: Mail TechService Subject: Technical Service Contact Form Below are the results of your feedback form. Date: Friday, September 28, 2007 at 21:43:40 Comments 2002 VW Eurovan - application guide says use ATF but transmission fluid recommendation page does not list VW. VW fluid G 052 162 A2 has been identifed as Esso LT71141 which is on the list as replaceable by ATF or ATD. Is Amsoil ATF a superior replacement for the VW fluid and is it compatible for mixing, as the trans can't be fully drained? --- In ev_update@..., "adammentzell" <adam@...> wrote: transmission service I have a few questions. I have a 97 EVC with 83K on it and to my knowledgeit has not had any trans fluid changes. I should also say I am not a gearhead and trying tounderstand the lingo as best as I can..The local VW garage here is suggesting replacing theexisting fluid with Amsoil ATF.which he states is often a problem in the VR6. Is this so?than other systems. My guys states that it is probable that 85% of the fluid can be flushed. AmI missing something here?
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Re: Check Engine light mystery
dave_king_ev
Go to AutoZone and get the code read. Premium is often more economical.
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--- In ev_update@..., Jonathan Levin <jonathan@...> wrote:
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Re: Check Engine light mystery
Judy
My CEL acted the same way-it was the cat converter at 55K, replaced under warranty.
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Judy 02 WK ----- Original Message ----
From: gti_matt <gti_matt@...> To: ev_update@... Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 11:00:36 AM Subject: Re: [ev_update] Check Engine light mystery --- Miles Koppersmith <miles@...> wrote: A typical cause is not putting your gas cap on tight enough. After youThere's that (gas cap) or about a gazillion other things. You really have to get the code and go from there. The CEL also isn't necessarily an indicator of something going into rich mode...it just means that something, somewhere isn't within specs for vehicle emissions but it can be many things (ignition, mixture, vaccuum, etc) as well as non-engine things like the evaporative emissions controls. ------------------------------------ To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@... Yahoo! Groups Links |
Re: Check Engine light mystery
Jonathan Levin
Well, strange this came up, since I was going to write about this myself about our 2001 EV MV WK.
Our check engine light has come on from time to time, and I determined that maybe it was a bad tank of gas. I (sadly) always use premium. Ussually if I run the tank close to empty and then fill up, the situation would clear up and no more CEL. Even with the CEL on, the van seems to run just fine. The only thing that I notice is that imediately after ignition, the engine revs just a bit fast for a second before settling in at a normal idle. Interestingly, this seems to happen in the spring, I'm guessing when refinerys change there recepie to a summer blend. Also interesting, is that it would mostly happen if I bought my gas in Indiana. I live in Chicago, but camp in the spring in central IN. This year has been a different story. The check engine light came on after filling up with gas in Indiana, so I ran that down to just about empty. We had a real rainy humid day here that coincided with that tank of gas being at just about empty, and when I started the van, the idle was just awful. It sound and felt like three of the six six cylynders were firing. Went to my gas station filled up with premium, problem with idling solved but CEL stil on. So my situation as it stands now is that the light is off (for now), van running fine. I called my VW service dept and they to mentioned the gas cap and that if I took the cap off and then back on, it still might take 48 hours for the computer to reset. I was also told that I could drive it as long as the light wasn't "blinking". Their charge for hooking it up to the diagnostics was $140.00 which I went ouch. Any ideas? Jonathan (absent for a while) |
Re: I would like the ignition to turn on the headlight
gti_matt
--- felixproulx <felixproulx@...> wrote:
I have a EVC 95 and I'm going to move to Canada this summer. I knowBuy a DRL kit. Here are some for example: |
Re: I would like the ignition to turn on the headlight
gti_matt
--- felixproulx <felixproulx@...> wrote:
I have a EVC 95 and I'm going to move to Canada this summer. I knowBuy a DRL kit. Here are some for example: |
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