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Re: how to secure the sliding door against breaking and entering

 

forsalexxx wrote:
My van was broken into and I intend to prevent it from happening
again... but how to prevent opening the slider? I have seem some
pretty heavy duty external locks on German vans headed thru South
America, but I didn't want to go that far
I would guess that the *appearance* of security is more important than actual security. If your van looks hard to break into, the thief won't try and will pick another target.

This could include an obvious security system (with stickers and blinking lights), large obvious extra locks, perhaps even bars or wire mesh on the windows (I've seen stick-on plastic tinting film that had printed images of the little wires that they embed in security glass).


Re: [VW-Eurovan] Questions about my new VW Eurovan Westy

 

Caroline,

Welcome.

Fuel indicator is a common problem and the fix is here:
_ ()

Start up: It should start immediately and reliably. It could be spark plugs,
plug wires, or other things electrical? When were these last replaced? When
it starts and is cold, how does it idle? Roughly or smoothly?


The radio does go into SAFE mode when ever power is removed, such as when
disconnecting the battery. You will need the radio code which is normally
stored in the Operator's Manual. If not there and the previous owner can't/won't
provide it, the radio must come out to get its serial number. Once you have
that, a VW dealer can determine the code.

I recommend you also look at the EV_Update site. It has more members
contributing.

Bob W.

In a message dated 5/31/2008 1:31:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
cstengl@... writes:

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the group and new to owning a VW Eurovan. It's a 92 Westfalia
camper. I
bought it on Vancouver Island just a week ago. It's only had one owner and
the only
repairs on record are glass related. It has 156 000 KM on it. Not too bad
for a 92.

Since driving it off the lot I've discovered a couple of problems (already!)
that I was hoping
you could help me with. Any advice about what to do would be appreciated. I
do have a
warranty that will cover the major things.

My fuel indicator seems to be messed up. The needle fluctuates from 1/4 tank
to 3/4 tank
within five minutes, going up and down throughout the trip. I don't mean
just the normal
rise of the needle after starting the motor. I mean during a longer drive.

The van doesn't always start reliably which I wonder if this is normal for a
Eurovan because
the manual specifically describes how to deal with it. Try the starter, wait
thirty seconds,
try again. It seems to not like to start after sitting in the sun for a
while, or just sitting for
a while. Usually it starts on the second try. Should I be concerned about
this?

The other problem is my stereo doesn't work at all. I can't play tapes. I
can't play the radio.
I put in a converter kit to play mp3s from my iPod and the stereo wouldn't
play it and
wouldn't eject the tape component either. I had to carefully pry it out
again. The display
says something like "SAF e" on it. My dad was saying that perhaps it's one
of those stereos
that have a code, where if the stereo is disconnected from the power, like
due to theft for
example, it won't play, making it useless until you enter the correct code.
It appears to be
the original stereo for the vehicle. It says Heidelberg on it and it has a
little picture of a
key on it, something to do with the locks on the doors that all lock
automatically when you
turn the key in the driver or passenger door lock. The windows have the same
key image
on them by the lock. Where can I get a stereo manual? Has anyone had this
problem and
were you able to fix it? If I had to replace this stereo would my key
locking mechanism no
longer work? Also I noticed a sticker about some kind of pre entry security
system and I
think it might be related to the radio too because there's a little red LED
light on the
stereo that goes on after I've locked the doors. Looks like an alarm or
something. Please
advise on what I should do about this. I sure miss having tunes while I'm
driving!

I'm looking forward to doing lots of traveling and camping in my new van. My
health
makes camping difficult but the van will make it easy. Hurray! Anyone have
some
suggestions for great road trips in the west coast region? How about some
road trip
stories or website links?

Thanks everyone!
Cheers
Caroline




****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()


Re: garage clearance

Stuart MacMillan
 

The only way to find the clearance is to measure it. Park the van on a
level surface, place your step ladder along side, and hold a straight piece
of pipe or 2x4 at least 5' long on the top across the vent cover. Put a
level on it, and use a tape measure to determine the distance to the ground.




My '97 comes in at 6' 7", and I don't go into anything under 7', but 6' 8"
should work, as long as it's level and you don't bounce. But you only have
an inch, and remember to close the vent cover!



Stuart

'97 EVC



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of Rick Gordon
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 10:16 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] garage clearance



i should know this, but i don't, so...

what's the min ceiling clearance for a '95 EVC?
anyone know if it will fit into the underground Central Plaza Garage
at the UW (in Seattle)?


Re: garage clearance

Larry Schellhase
 

If a garage is marked 6'8" or higher it usually works for my 99 EVC. However there are some garages marked 6'8" that scrape the roof. I have also found that it differs with tire size, a garage that worked just fine with Continental tires no longer works with the Agilis.

Larry
LA, CA

Rick Gordon <rgordon@...> wrote: i should know this, but i don't, so...

what's the min ceiling clearance for a '95 EVC?
anyone know if it will fit into the underground Central Plaza Garage
at the UW (in Seattle)?


garage clearance

Rick Gordon
 

i should know this, but i don't, so...

what's the min ceiling clearance for a '95 EVC?
anyone know if it will fit into the underground Central Plaza Garage at the UW (in Seattle)?


Free 8' Catalina awning in Seattle

Stuart MacMillan
 

Anyone who wants this can have it. It's been used once, but riding around
on my EVC for 10 years. First time I used it I broke off a leg, and it's
too much trouble for me to fix it (I have a new leg). If you want to tackle
this repair, you can come and get it!



Stupid me, I sold my Vanagon Westy with a brand new Shady Boy on it because
I didn't think I needed it. Boy, was I wrong!



Stuart



'97 EVC


Re: 2002 engine removal: Need some help and thoughts

Stuart MacMillan
 

Randall,



Could you provide some more info on the spline tools and your source? I'm
going to get them.



Thanks!



Stuart

'97 EVC



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of coniferproducts
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 8:33 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: 2002 engine removal: Need some help and thoughts



I recently had mine out to do the timing chains. Hope these tips help
and I'm more than happy to answer questions.

Questions:

1. Can I drop the motor out with the van on jack stands?
Yes, but you need to have good high ones. I bought the Goodyear brand
from Sam's because they seem to be well built and I'v used them alot.
And I would recommend having lots of 4x4 blocks so that you can extend
the lift of your jacks. I had to have the front of the van as high as
the ht. of the jack plus the complete ht. of the motor! So, I ended up
building platforms under the jack stands (like house movers do) to get
enough height. BE SAFE!

2. I must/should remove the radiator?
Yes, really easy but messy.

3. Tranny needs to come out with the motor?
Yes, much better to do it this way in my opinion.

4. Do I need to separate the lower ball joints to get the motor out?
You need to remove the axles. Look at the Bentley procedure and pay
complete attention to the special "spline" tools called for. I was
able to get them from a company in Boulder,CO but you can also get
them from SnapOn. You WILL need these tools for several things and
they are uncommon sizes. I wish I would have bought a complete set.
You will also need to replace all of the bolts for the axles per the
Bentley manual. It's not really that hard if you follow procedure.

5. What things should I replace while I'm doing this? (The engine
comes with all new timing chain components, valvetrain, gasket set.)
I'm replacing the WP, thermostat and housing, tie rods.
With that many miles, I would consider putting in new CVs on both left
and right axles. Because you have to take them out anyway. Also I will
second the recommendation to replace the tranny. I have to do this
whole procedure again in the future and I'm not looking forward to it.

6. How many hours should I allocate for this?
It took me 4 days by myself but I was being fairly methodical. Next
time should be faster. ;-)

7. What special tools do I need?
In addition to the splined wrenches that I mentioned above, I welded a
support for the bottom of the motor similar to what the factory uses.
Of course since I didn't have technical drawings it isn't exact but it
does hold the engine tranny combo quite well (and more importantly
stable) while you are lowering them out. I made it so that it would
fit in the top hole of a Goodyear rolling jack (Sam's Club). This is a
decent jack and I could have used 2, but I had access to a couple of
pallet jacks also. Depending on your location and how long you would
need it I might be willing to lend it out.

I did all of the disconnects and then got the jack under the motor
(with the special support) at maximum lift. I then lowered the
motor/tranny and lifted the van after so that I could roll them right
out the front. This is where it would have helped to have another jack!

In addition, take more pictures than I did!!!! Especially the
wiring/hose connections. I marked every connection with different
colors/symbols but when it came time to put everything back in I found
that the routing of the wires was not so self explanatory as it seemed
when I was disconnecting. Rule 1: If you think you have enough
pictures, take some more!

Randal
2000 EVC


Re: Yakima or Thule Cargo or Rocket Box on Pop Top

 

by the time you drill the roof for brackets, and buy the rest of the
set-up, (just the thule 21cu ft box is around $600,) you have spent a
lot of money, especially if you dont need to use it much.
i have a soft 10cuft canvas contraption the attaches with pull straps
to the roof. you could easily put 2 up there if you needed 20cuft. i
only use it for dog food, camping stuff, and other cheap items that
take up a lotof space, but it works.
i always would add a broomstick or 2 to keep the roof from crushing me.

--- In ev_update@..., "jeff_westy" <k-and-j.drexel@...> wrote:

Sorry for the delay with the pictures...

I was scrambling getting the van ready for a Memorial Day road trip
to Mammoth Cave for some camping with the kids.









--- In ev_update@..., "jeff_westy" <k-and-j.drexel@>
wrote:

We have an '02 EVWK with Yakima bars mounted to Yakima "Wide Body"
bolt-on mounts with 1A Raingutter towers. I chose this just because
you can find the 1A towers and bars cheap on craigslist.

I have a Thule Mountaineer 17 cu ft cargo box and Yakima BasketCase
mounted up top. Cargo box for soft cargo and the basket for a
tricycle
and bike trailer.

Works great. No issues with the top other than it's hard(er) to lift
and I have to put a prop rod under the front of the poptop when it's
up to make sure it doesn't fall down... and I carry a stool to get
up
top to get things down and put them back up.

I'll post a link to some pictures tomorrow.

--- In ev_update@..., "glencgilbert" <glen@> wrote:

I am new 1993 Eurovan MV Weekender owner. I am taking my wife and
kids
cross country this summer for 2 mos. and would like to add a
cargo box
to the roof. Will this harm the pop top? Does anyone have
recommendations for particular cargo box sizes or types of mounts
that
fit? I will only pop the top when the box is empty at night. The
Yakima I am looking at weighs 35 lbs. for 15 cubic feet of
storage
for pillows, sleeping bags, clothes, etc. I saw one person added
an
additional support bar for his poptop. Is that necessary? Thank
you,
Glen


how to secure the sliding door against breaking and entering

 

my van was broken into and i intend to prevent it from happening
again. it seems easy to run a cable thru the two front door handles
and lock it. but how to prevent opening the slider? i have been
thinking about some sort of cable thru the slider window and passenger
front window. or thru the two door handles . or some sort of bolt thru
the body that can be locked. has anybody done this?
i have seem some pretty heavy duty external locks on german vans
headed thru south america, but i didnt want to go that far.


Re: 2002 engine removal: Need some help and thoughts

coniferproducts
 

I got the motor at a screaming deal. It is a VW factory reman, for
$1850 shipped to my door. It comes with a 12/12 warranty.
Does your motor have a sister? ;-)

It is good to know that I can extract this thing with jack stands.
Also, very good to know that it only took you 4 days.
Good call on multiple jacks. I'll get another one on loan. I'm in
San Jose, CA. Some type of pallet jack would be awesome, but I don't
have anything like that.

I'll look into the special tool I need for the axle removal. Not sure
if I'm up for replacing the CVs, but I'll look into it.

I'll look into borrowing a welder and making that special engine
mount. I've been eyeing that in the manual and it sticks out as
something I'd really like to have for this.
The support for holding the motor is indispensable. I don't know how
you would lower and control the engine/tranny without it.

Randal
2000 EVC


Re: Check Engine light mystery

 

Jonathon (absent for a while),

Get thee to Autozone store (preferably on a slow weekday) and ask them to
read the codes for free. Let us know what they are.

Bob W.

In a message dated 5/30/2008 11:36:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jonathan@... writes:

Well, strange this came up, since I was going to write about this
myself about our 2001 EV MV WK.

Our check engine light has come on from time to time, and I determined
that maybe it was a bad tank of gas. I (sadly) always use premium.
Ussually if I run the tank close to empty and then fill up, the
situation would clear up and no more CEL. Even with the CEL on, the
van seems to run just fine. The only thing that I notice is that
imediately after ignition, the engine revs just a bit fast for a
second before settling in at a normal idle.

Interestingly, this seems to happen in the spring, I'm guessing when
refinerys change there recepie to a summer blend. Also interesting, is
that it would mostly happen if I bought my gas in Indiana. I live in
Chicago, but camp in the spring in central IN.

This year has been a different story. The check engine light came on
after filling up with gas in Indiana, so I ran that down to just about
empty. We had a real rainy humid day here that coincided with that
tank of gas being at just about empty, and when I started the van, the
idle was just awful. It sound and felt like three of the six six
cylynders were firing.

Went to my gas station filled up with premium, problem with idling
solved but CEL stil on.

So my situation as it stands now is that the light is off (for now),
van running fine. I called my VW service dept and they to mentioned
the gas cap and that if I took the cap off and then back on, it still
might take 48 hours for the computer to reset. I was also told that I
could drive it as long as the light wasn't "blinking". Their charge
for hooking it up to the diagnostics was $140.00 which I went ouch.

Any ideas?

Jonathan (absent for a while)





****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()


Re: Check Engine light mystery

 

Lee,

Try Autozone to get the codes read for free. They may have the ability to
also decode some of the EV codes and tell you what is wrong. But do write
down the code(s), let us know what they are, and we can make some
recommendations, some of which may solve the problem.

Bob W.

In a message dated 5/30/2008 10:13:39 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
leeahart@... writes:

cactuspaws wrote:
I have a 2002 EV Weekender. A few months ago the check engine light
came on and stayed on till I was able to get it in to the shop a
month later. Miraculously, the light went off some time before I
reached the shop and didn't come on when the mechanic took it in.
Same here! I also have a 2002 EV MV. Last fall, the "check engine" light
came on for a few weeks. I drove to the dealer, and it turned off before
they looked at it. Again, they said there were no diagnostics as to why
it was on (they charged me $85 to "check codes" anyway).

It certainly did not affect my gas mileage. I have a little book in the
van that I record all maintenance, repairs, and even gas purchases and
amounts. The van ran perfectly fine, and my gas mileage was unaffected
while the "check engine" light was on.

The light just came back on again (exactly 3000 miles after it was at
the dealer's the last time). Is it possible that they programmed it to
turn on? Maybe it means, "Boat payment due; turn on revenue enhancement
light" :-)
--





****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()


Re: 1993 Eurovan Antenna torn off

 

Try Europarts-sd dot com: $65 plus shipping.

Bob W.

goody434 <_goody434@... (mailto:goody434@...) > wrote:
Just got my Antenna broken off by a disgruntled fan at Dodger Stadium over a
high school
championship game. I was not present, but I assume it was by the losing team
fan. Does
anyone have any idea of the cost of a new Factory one? Any problems with
installation? I am
bummed.
Richg





****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()


Re: 2000 camper winnebago has anyone removed the closet and rear area

 

thanks jim,
I guess I'm going to have to try it and see. Other than a junk yard
do you happen to know where I might pick up a rear window to install
if this goes as planned?

--- In ev_update@..., Jim White <jim@...> wrote:

I know that's been done quite a few times because there are a
number of
fairly late model (2001?) EVCs running around in just that
condition.
Some Seattle-based coffee company turned EVCs into mobile cafes by
ripping out the rear closet & storage compartments (keeping the
appliances and water systems as you say) and installing an
espresso
machine in their place.

I saw one being sold after they were done with it and the coffee
machine
was removed, but don't recall any details apart from I knew I
didn't
want to deal with the project involved in reconstruction!

Also while I was getting my furnace repaired I got to see what
Wolfie
(97 EVC) looks like with the plastic panel removed because you
have to
do that in order to access it. It was a bit of a jolt to see that
since
I sleep head-to-the-rear the cast iron burner box is just inches
away.
I suppose it could be considered a good thing because that way if
something catches fire I'll notice right away... ;-)

Jim & Wolfie resting at home after three weeks on the road.

jaychee wrote:

I have owed 4 volks campers. in the previous I removed the
closet area
leaving only the stove, sink, refrigerator component to enable a
wider
bed. in this model I am afraid to do so because of what I might
disturb and because I will have to cut metal and wood to do so.
has
anyone already tried this? I want to keep the external shower
hose of
course.


Re: amsoil ATF??

 

Adam,

I changed my 93 EV to Amsoil ATF at about 80K miles, which made the
transmission operate much more smoothly. I plan to change my 2002
EVMV at the next change.

Amsoil ATF is the right fluid for the VW application and I think is
better than OEM. See the Amsoil Technical Support response below.

It is hard to flush and if done as 3 successive changes should get
most of it, 85% as you stated. The Amsoil is compatible with the
remainder of the original fluid.

Jonathan
________________________________________
From: Mail TechService [mailto:tech@...]
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:48 AM
To: ROHRER&#92;, JONATHAN P
Subject: RE: Technical Service Contact Form

Jonathan;

AMSOIL Universal ATF is the correct fluid to use where Esso Type LT
71141 is called for by the manufacturer. It is compatible with this
fluid, so a mixture is OK. You might also want to look at
for
methods of changing the fluid.

Thank you for this opportunity to respond to your question(s). As
always, please feel free to contact us again if we can be of further
assistance.

Sincerely,
Byron Selbrede
Technical Services

The accuracy of this e-mail response is dependent upon the
information provided. AMSOIL INC. is not responsible for wrong
recommendations that were based on inaccurate or incomplete
information.

From: Jonathan Rohrer
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 9:44 PM
To: Mail TechService
Subject: Technical Service Contact Form

Below are the results of your feedback form.
Date: Friday, September 28, 2007 at 21:43:40

Comments
2002 VW Eurovan - application guide says use ATF but transmission
fluid recommendation page does not list VW. VW fluid G 052 162 A2 has
been identifed as Esso LT71141 which is on the list as replaceable by
ATF or ATD. Is Amsoil ATF a superior replacement for the VW fluid and
is it compatible for mixing, as the trans can't be fully drained?

--- In ev_update@..., "adammentzell" <adam@...> wrote:

I am new to this group and having read some recent posts on
transmission service I have a
few questions. I have a 97 EVC with 83K on it and to my knowledge
it has not had any trans
fluid changes. I should also say I am not a gearhead and trying to
understand the lingo as
best as I can..The local VW garage here is suggesting replacing the
existing fluid with Amsoil
ATF.

Is this acceptable or should I insist on the factory fluid?

My mechanic also is suggesting looking at the ring and pinion oil
which he states is often a
problem in the VR6. Is this so?

Lastly, it seems that a full flush of the system is a bit harder
than other systems. My guys
states that it is probable that 85% of the fluid can be flushed. Am
I missing something here?

Trying my best to make it out of the "danger zone".

Thanks for your help.

Adam Mentzell


Re: Check Engine light mystery

dave_king_ev
 

Go to AutoZone and get the code read. Premium is often more economical.

--- In ev_update@..., Jonathan Levin <jonathan@...> wrote:

Well, strange this came up, since I was going to write about this
myself about our 2001 EV MV WK.

Our check engine light has come on from time to time, and I determined
that maybe it was a bad tank of gas. I (sadly) always use premium.
Ussually if I run the tank close to empty and then fill up, the
situation would clear up and no more CEL. Even with the CEL on, the
van seems to run just fine. The only thing that I notice is that
imediately after ignition, the engine revs just a bit fast for a
second before settling in at a normal idle.

Interestingly, this seems to happen in the spring, I'm guessing when
refinerys change there recepie to a summer blend. Also interesting, is
that it would mostly happen if I bought my gas in Indiana. I live in
Chicago, but camp in the spring in central IN.

This year has been a different story. The check engine light came on
after filling up with gas in Indiana, so I ran that down to just about
empty. We had a real rainy humid day here that coincided with that
tank of gas being at just about empty, and when I started the van, the
idle was just awful. It sound and felt like three of the six six
cylynders were firing.

Went to my gas station filled up with premium, problem with idling
solved but CEL stil on.

So my situation as it stands now is that the light is off (for now),
van running fine. I called my VW service dept and they to mentioned
the gas cap and that if I took the cap off and then back on, it still
might take 48 hours for the computer to reset. I was also told that I
could drive it as long as the light wasn't "blinking". Their charge
for hooking it up to the diagnostics was $140.00 which I went ouch.

Any ideas?

Jonathan (absent for a while)


Re: Check Engine light mystery

Judy
 

My CEL acted the same way-it was the cat converter at 55K, replaced under warranty.
Judy
02 WK

----- Original Message ----
From: gti_matt <gti_matt@...>
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 11:00:36 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Check Engine light mystery

--- Miles Koppersmith <miles@...> wrote:
A typical cause is not putting your gas cap on tight enough. After you
finally get it tighten it will generally take a number of start and stop
cycles for the computer to recognize the problem is resolved and then reset
the check engine light so that it will turn off. If it does not go off by
itself before your next service just have them check it next time you have
it in for service. Or you could stop by AutoZone and they will read the
code for you for free.
There's that (gas cap) or about a gazillion other things. You really have to get the code and go
from there. The CEL also isn't necessarily an indicator of something going into rich mode...it
just means that something, somewhere isn't within specs for vehicle emissions but it can be many
things (ignition, mixture, vaccuum, etc) as well as non-engine things like the evaporative
emissions controls.




------------------------------------

To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to
mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@...
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Re: Check Engine light mystery

Jonathan Levin
 

Well, strange this came up, since I was going to write about this myself about our 2001 EV MV WK.

Our check engine light has come on from time to time, and I determined that maybe it was a bad tank of gas. I (sadly) always use premium. Ussually if I run the tank close to empty and then fill up, the situation would clear up and no more CEL. Even with the CEL on, the van seems to run just fine. The only thing that I notice is that imediately after ignition, the engine revs just a bit fast for a second before settling in at a normal idle.

Interestingly, this seems to happen in the spring, I'm guessing when refinerys change there recepie to a summer blend. Also interesting, is that it would mostly happen if I bought my gas in Indiana. I live in Chicago, but camp in the spring in central IN.

This year has been a different story. The check engine light came on after filling up with gas in Indiana, so I ran that down to just about empty. We had a real rainy humid day here that coincided with that tank of gas being at just about empty, and when I started the van, the idle was just awful. It sound and felt like three of the six six cylynders were firing.

Went to my gas station filled up with premium, problem with idling solved but CEL stil on.

So my situation as it stands now is that the light is off (for now), van running fine. I called my VW service dept and they to mentioned the gas cap and that if I took the cap off and then back on, it still might take 48 hours for the computer to reset. I was also told that I could drive it as long as the light wasn't "blinking". Their charge for hooking it up to the diagnostics was $140.00 which I went ouch.

Any ideas?

Jonathan (absent for a while)


Re: I would like the ignition to turn on the headlight

gti_matt
 

--- felixproulx <felixproulx@...> wrote:
I have a EVC 95 and I'm going to move to Canada this summer. I know
that to have my EV registered there I have to modify the headlights so
they turn on automatically when I start the car. Does anyone know how
to do that ?
Buy a DRL kit.

Here are some for example:


Re: I would like the ignition to turn on the headlight

gti_matt
 

--- felixproulx <felixproulx@...> wrote:
I have a EVC 95 and I'm going to move to Canada this summer. I know
that to have my EV registered there I have to modify the headlights so
they turn on automatically when I start the car. Does anyone know how
to do that ?
Buy a DRL kit.

Here are some for example: