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I would like the ignition to turn on the headlight

felixproulx
 

I have a EVC 95 and I'm going to move to Canada this summer. I know
that to have my EV registered there I have to modify the headlights so
they turn on automatically when I start the car. Does anyone know how
to do that ?
Antoine


Re: Want to Buy: Middle Seat for '95 EVC

forest flanigan
 

The 2002 middle seat is different than the 95. I contacted the person
interested in a 95 and they still want it. So mine will go to her.

Forest

On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 4:58 AM, Todd and Dana <ddc_jtc@...> wrote:

--- I have a 2002 middle seat available IN PA ddc_jtc@...<ddc_jtc%40yahoo.com>

In ev_update@... <ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "forest
flanigan" <creoflan@...> wrote:

I have a middle seat for a 95 EVC . Another person on the list was
looking
at it but she's in NY AND I'm in Northern Ca. I'll check with her --
Write me
off list if your interested

Forest

On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 10:50 AM, alonfw2 <alonfw@...> wrote:

If you have one or know of any please let me know. We just had
a baby
and would like him closer to us when we are out and about.

Alon :)






Re: Rear Torsion Bar Loose

 

Garrett, did you install HDs or regular?

What do you guys recommend for the EV Weekender? I rarely drive with
it ladened down either. I'm use to a sporty ride in my cars. The
current OEM shocks are not bouncy, but certainly soft.


Re: Check Engine light mystery

dave_king_ev
 

What was the code that the computer stored? Not being able to figure
out what caused the code is one thing, but your mechanic still should
have told you what code was stored.

(Otherwise, whether or not the engine goes into a rich mode depends on
the problem causing the code. Not all problems result in the rich
mode. Most don't.)

--- In ev_update@..., "cactuspaws" <awaytome@...> wrote:

I have a 2002 EV Weekender. A few months ago the check engine light
came on and stayed on till I was able to get it in to the shop a
month later. Miraculously, the light went off some time before I
reached the shop and didn't come on when the mechanic took it in. The
computer showed that it had been on but they couldn't determine what
caused it. I was told that when it comes on the engine is running rich
so gas mileage is reduced but there is no damage. I left without having
any more diagnostics performed and the light stayed off for several
months... then came on again a few days ago.

Anyone have an idea what might be going on? I don't really want to
make the 35 mile drive to the shop to run another inconclusive
diagnostic, but I'm not happy about it running rich when gas is so
expensive, and I worry that something awful is happening to the
engine. Is this a quirk anyone is familiar with?

Karen


Re: Check Engine light mystery

Miles Koppersmith
 

A typical cause is not putting your gas cap on tight enough. After you finally get it tighten it will generally take a number of start and stop cycles for the computer to recognize the problem is resolved and then reset the check engine light so that it will turn off. If it does not go off by itself before your next service just have them check it next time you have it in for service. Or you could stop by AutoZone and they will read the code for you for free.

Hope this helps.

----- Original Message -----
From: "cactuspaws" <awaytome@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 2:03 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Check Engine light mystery


I have a 2002 EV Weekender. A few months ago the check engine light
came on and stayed on till I was able to get it in to the shop a
month later. Miraculously, the light went off some time before I
reached the shop and didn't come on when the mechanic took it in. The
computer showed that it had been on but they couldn't determine what
caused it. I was told that when it comes on the engine is running rich
so gas mileage is reduced but there is no damage. I left without having
any more diagnostics performed and the light stayed off for several
months... then came on again a few days ago.

Anyone have an idea what might be going on? I don't really want to
make the 35 mile drive to the shop to run another inconclusive
diagnostic, but I'm not happy about it running rich when gas is so
expensive, and I worry that something awful is happening to the
engine. Is this a quirk anyone is familiar with?

Karen


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Re: 95 EVC Towing Ability

 

How about bicylces. Or maybe a 50cc scooter. Sure does the trick.
Florian 03 MVWK

--- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...> wrote:

Gotta love $4 gasoline. Weve gone from 40' diesel pushers towing Jeep
Grand Cherokees to EVC's towing VW Polos.....is this a great country
or what!!

Pete


--- In ev_update@..., "dkottum" <dkottum@> wrote:

We take extended (months) trips with our 95 EVC 5-spd, and find it
an excellent touring
vehicle. But it is not so good as a runabout from the campsite. Too
big and too much fuel,
and the inconvenience of breaking camp. Has anyone experience and
advice on the
possibility of towing a very tiny and light car along on our trips.
(A VW Polo or Toyota IQ
would be cool.) I have seen a towing spec of 4400 lbs for the 95
EVC 5-spd, which is more
than twice what we might need.

Doug Kottum, Battle Lake, MN

"Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for." -Louis
L'Amour


Re: 95 EVC Towing Ability

 

Gotta love $4 gasoline. Weve gone from 40' diesel pushers towing Jeep
Grand Cherokees to EVC's towing VW Polos.....is this a great country
or what!!

Pete


--- In ev_update@..., "dkottum" <dkottum@...> wrote:

We take extended (months) trips with our 95 EVC 5-spd, and find it
an excellent touring
vehicle. But it is not so good as a runabout from the campsite. Too
big and too much fuel,
and the inconvenience of breaking camp. Has anyone experience and
advice on the
possibility of towing a very tiny and light car along on our trips.
(A VW Polo or Toyota IQ
would be cool.) I have seen a towing spec of 4400 lbs for the 95
EVC 5-spd, which is more
than twice what we might need.

Doug Kottum, Battle Lake, MN

"Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for." -Louis
L'Amour


Re: EVC Auxiliary/Coach/Deep Cycle Battery Specs?

 

You've got it right. Any good quality 12v deep cycle battery with max
ah that fits the box (I think you will find group 31 is the largest
that will fit). Don't worry about cca, just ah. The EVC is set up
with a ventilated battery box and conventional charging system which
is a fool proof system for traditional batteries.

If you want to upgrade with more capacity, that is another story for
which you will find multiple opinions and options.

Pete

-- In ev_update@..., "davidaprilh" <smithhorner@...>
wrote:

The auxiliary battery in my '02 EVC is dead. The VW manual says
that
it's important to chose a replacement with the correct specs, but
neither the VW manual nor the Winnie manual list any specs other
than
12 V. The OEM battery is long gone, of course, so I can't check the
specs on the case. I don't want to assume that the previous owner
installed the right battery, and I do assume that my local battery
guy
will know nothing about the EVC.

What ARE the specs for the '02 EVC auxiliary battery? I've been
reading about Trojans, Dekas, and Odysseys on this board, but which
models match the VW specs? Or does it matter if I depart from the
VW
specs as long as I go with a deep cycle 12 V battery that fits in
the
EVC's battery box and has lots of Ah? My dead battery is a Werker
31MDC: 12V, 105 Ah, 775 CCA.

Thanks for your help!

David
'02 EVC


Re: 2002 EV MV Wont Start

Miles Koppersmith
 

I don't think it would be the immobilizer, because when the immobilizer did not recognize my key it would still allow me to crank the engine but the engine will immediately shut back off.

Miles Koppersmith
2002 EVC

----- Original Message -----
From: "gti_matt" <gti_matt@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] 2002 EV MV Wont Start


--- psnbsswett <philipswett@...> wrote:
I was running some errands yesterday, my MV was starting fine, no
hesitation whatsoever with when starting. I make a quick stop, get
back in to leave and the car will not start. Plenty of power in the
system, just nothing getting to the starter. It's as if the starter
just got unplugged or something. I looked around for a blown fuse but
found none.
bad ignition switch or the immobilizer isn't recognizing your key?





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Re: EVC Auxiliary/Coach/Deep Cycle Battery Specs?

Miles Koppersmith
 

The original coach battery in my 02 EVC was a Trojan 30XHS-130 amp hr. I replaced it on 7-19-07 with a Trojan SCS225 Marine which is the same as the 30XHS but with double posts. The cost was about $120 but I understand prices have now increased.
Hope this helps.

Miles Koppersmith
2002 EVC

----- Original Message -----
From: "davidaprilh" <smithhorner@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 10:33 AM
Subject: [ev_update] EVC Auxiliary/Coach/Deep Cycle Battery Specs?


The auxiliary battery in my '02 EVC is dead. The VW manual says that
it's important to chose a replacement with the correct specs, but
neither the VW manual nor the Winnie manual list any specs other than
12 V. The OEM battery is long gone, of course, so I can't check the
specs on the case. I don't want to assume that the previous owner
installed the right battery, and I do assume that my local battery guy
will know nothing about the EVC.

What ARE the specs for the '02 EVC auxiliary battery? I've been
reading about Trojans, Dekas, and Odysseys on this board, but which
models match the VW specs? Or does it matter if I depart from the VW
specs as long as I go with a deep cycle 12 V battery that fits in the
EVC's battery box and has lots of Ah? My dead battery is a Werker
31MDC: 12V, 105 Ah, 775 CCA.

Thanks for your help!

David
'02 EVC


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Re: headlight chime

gti_matt
 

--- kd4fvn <kd4fvn@...> wrote:
When I bought it the headlights came on when I started the engine. In
tracing down another electrical problem I found a dangling relay and
some added wiring (sloppy installation). Also with the engine running
one of the wires going to the relay got HOT. I finally figured out
that this mysterious relay was giving me the "driving lights".
Sounds like a sloppy hack for DRLs.

The short story is: I pulled the relay and cut and respliced the
wires. Now I have to track down the beepy thing and see if I can make
it work.
My '00 has it but I guess that's no guarantee that older EVs should have had it.

If you decide to do the always on headlight mod. use a heavy enough wire and relay. Headlights
pull a lot of amps.

VW's stock wiring is usually 14 gauge but that's arguably a bit thin. I'd recommend 12 gauge at least.


Re: headlight chime

 

I didn't know that there's supposed to be a beepy reminder thing for
the headlights in my 95 EVC. If there is mine doesn't work.

When I bought it the headlights came on when I started the engine. In
tracing down another electrical problem I found a dangling relay and
some added wiring (sloppy installation). Also with the engine running
one of the wires going to the relay got HOT. I finally figured out
that this mysterious relay was giving me the "driving lights".

The short story is: I pulled the relay and cut and respliced the
wires. Now I have to track down the beepy thing and see if I can make
it work.

If you decide to do the always on headlight mod. use a heavy enough
wire and relay. Headlights pull a lot of amps.

Brian
95EVC

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

--- dkottum <dkottum@...> wrote:
We have a 95 EVC also, and I feel safer with driving lights as
well. How about this approach?
Is there a (good) kit to light the headlights when the engine is
running?

There's lots of aftermarket DRL kits out there. Any of them should
work fine.


Re: amsoil ATF??

Dale Lucas
 

Adam,
We purchased our 97 EVC with 35K on it and the trans. fluid was shot. There was also some ATF polluting the final drive gear oil. So, before our first big trip we had it all changed, including a filter of course.
Since then I change it myself with the help of this group, a dip stick and using the OEM spec.fluid purchased locally from a non-dealer.
I change ours ever 20K and had the gear oil changed again and did not find any ATF this time.
Just recently, before our last trip into the desert I added a lower temp. thermostatic switch for the fans (80c / 176f ) and a cooler just behind the grill to pre-cool the coolant before entering the heat exchanger on the top of the transmission. So far, the ATF seems to be staying below 170F, even in the extreme heat and climbing hills.
I will still change the fluid ever 20K anyway.
Glad you found this group,
Be sure to wave when you see us on the road.
Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon

Sea2river@... wrote:
Adam,

If it were me, I would get the OEM AT fluid, filter, and gasket
(europarts-sd dot com has reasonable prices), plus a sample kit from Blackstone Lab (
_
() ) and prepare to do the change myself or provide it to my mechanic.
As the old fluid is being changed, I would get a sample of the old fluid and
submit it to Blackstone for analysis. A few weeks later, I will have the
sample test results and can see if another immediate ATF change is recommended.
While I am uncertain as to your AT's condition, I suspect you will be OK
and will have avoided ower-reacting.

Good luck.
Bob W.

In a message dated 5/29/2008 10:28:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
adam@... writes:

I am new to this group and having read some recent posts on transmission
service I have a
few questions. I have a 97 EVC with 83K on it and to my knowledge it has not
had any trans
fluid changes. I should also say I am not a gearhead and trying to
understand the lingo as
best as I can..The local VW garage here is suggesting replacing the existing
fluid with Amsoil
ATF.

Is this acceptable or should I insist on the factory fluid?

My mechanic also is suggesting looking at the ring and pinion oil which he
states is often a
problem in the VR6. Is this so?

Lastly, it seems that a full flush of the system is a bit harder than other
systems. My guys
states that it is probable that 85% of the fluid can be flushed. Am I
missing something here?

Trying my best to make it out of the "danger zone".

Thanks for your help.

Adam Mentzell

****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()


Check Engine light mystery

cactuspaws
 

I have a 2002 EV Weekender. A few months ago the check engine light
came on and stayed on till I was able to get it in to the shop a
month later. Miraculously, the light went off some time before I
reached the shop and didn't come on when the mechanic took it in. The
computer showed that it had been on but they couldn't determine what
caused it. I was told that when it comes on the engine is running rich
so gas mileage is reduced but there is no damage. I left without having
any more diagnostics performed and the light stayed off for several
months... then came on again a few days ago.

Anyone have an idea what might be going on? I don't really want to
make the 35 mile drive to the shop to run another inconclusive
diagnostic, but I'm not happy about it running rich when gas is so
expensive, and I worry that something awful is happening to the
engine. Is this a quirk anyone is familiar with?

Karen


95 EVC Towing Ability

 

We take extended (months) trips with our 95 EVC 5-spd, and find it an excellent touring
vehicle. But it is not so good as a runabout from the campsite. Too big and too much fuel,
and the inconvenience of breaking camp. Has anyone experience and advice on the
possibility of towing a very tiny and light car along on our trips. (A VW Polo or Toyota IQ
would be cool.) I have seen a towing spec of 4400 lbs for the 95 EVC 5-spd, which is more
than twice what we might need.

Doug Kottum, Battle Lake, MN

"Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for." -Louis L'Amour


Re: 2002 engine removal: Need some help and thoughts

 

I really appreciate all the comments and thoughts and advice guys.
Taking the time to share experience is what these forums are all about.

To clarify, I only put 5kmi on my van per year. I bought it used 2
yrs ago with 160k.

I thought about a 6sp swap while I was in here, but didn't want to
create more of a headache for myself. When this tranny goes, I'll
plan for the idea of a 6sp manual swap. Nothing sneaky here,
unfortunately. I'm just looking to get the van back on the road.

I got the motor at a screaming deal. It is a VW factory reman, for
$1850 shipped to my door. It comes with a 12/12 warranty. A used AXK
junkyard motor in my area was $4k and had 60k miles on it.
The reman motor came complete with new gasket set, and full
compression test sheet. A complete long block with almost new
everything from pan to valve cover.
I've looked on vagcat.com and traced most of the part numbers between
the 2 blocks. Almost everything swaps over, leading me to believe the
engine and torque curves will be OK.
Worst case scenario, I use my old block and swap all the hard parts
and the head across. I hope not to have to do that, as some super
tech at VW named Gunther put this rebuilt motor together, and surely
he's a 1000x better than I am at it.


It is good to know that I can extract this thing with jack stands.
Also, very good to know that it only took you 4 days.
Good call on multiple jacks. I'll get another one on loan. I'm in
San Jose, CA. Some type of pallet jack would be awesome, but I don't
have anything like that.

I'll look into the special tool I need for the axle removal. Not sure
if I'm up for replacing the CVs, but I'll look into it.

I'll look into borrowing a welder and making that special engine
mount. I've been eyeing that in the manual and it sticks out as
something I'd really like to have for this.


Re: headlight chime

gti_matt
 

--- dkottum <dkottum@...> wrote:
We have a 95 EVC also, and I feel safer with driving lights as well. How about this approach?
Is there a (good) kit to light the headlights when the engine is running?
There's lots of aftermarket DRL kits out there. Any of them should work fine.


Re: headlight chime

 

We have a 95 EVC also, and I feel safer with driving lights as well. How about this approach?
Is there a (good) kit to light the headlights when the engine is running?

Doug Kottum, Battle Lake, MN
34 years with VW campers


headlight chime

forest
 

Help-- I came across a stumper yesterday. Or at least my mechanic did.
The headlight chime in my 95 EVC stopped working a while ago. the
mechanic traced it to the switch-- I live 50 miles from the shop so he
ordered one and I took the van back Tuesday so he could put it
in--still no chime. After tracing the wires with the diagram he still
could not find the problem. Has anyone had this happen.
I am willing to put up with this but I like to drive with the lights
on and seem to forget to turn them off often --operator malfunction.
When these chimes first came out I hated them, but in my old age I
guess i need it.

Thanks
Forest


Re: EVC Auxiliary/Coach/Deep Cycle Battery Specs?

jack_son_73
 

David -

A Trojan 105 AH Marine bat came with my '03 EVC, &
I added a second 105 AH Marine for double capacity.
I built a new plastic box to fit them - tightly!.

If you plan to keep the original bat box, you may
want to buy the largest deep cycle that will fit.
Look at the AGM higher capacity & price by Optima.
Their Yellow Top are Marine batteries, which have
higher rating for a given size. Add a "T" for 3/8"
Stainless threaded terminals, to fit 3/8" wing nuts.

EVC house batteries never get a full charge from
the alternator. I use a small Harbor Freight ~1.5A
trickle "Float" charger on my house batteries - now
on sale for $6. I modified it with a resistor to
bring it up from 13.3 to 13.8V. If I charge my pair
for a day or two per week, they stay up fine.
Keeping batteries above 11 - 11.5V prolongs bat
life. If I don't drive the EVC once a week, I charge
the front bat also.

If you can't leave extension cord on van overnight,
use the converter/charger, which will top house bat
up a lot faster [at 15 Amps]. To charge front bat at
the same time, leave key on, with hand brake on to
kill the driving lights. The converter/charger will
charge front & rear bats together.

Regards,

Jack_son

==================================================
--In ev_update@..., "davidaprilh" <smithhorner@...> wrote:

The auxiliary battery in my '02 EVC is dead. The VW manual says
that
it's important to chose a replacement with the correct specs, but
neither the VW manual nor the Winnie manual list any specs other
than
12 V. The OEM battery is long gone, of course, so I can't check the
specs on the case. I don't want to assume that the previous owner
installed the right battery, and I do assume that my local battery
guy
will know nothing about the EVC.

What ARE the specs for the '02 EVC auxiliary battery? I've been
reading about Trojans, Dekas, and Odysseys on this board, but which
models match the VW specs? Or does it matter if I depart from the
VW
specs as long as I go with a deep cycle 12 V battery that fits in
the
EVC's battery box and has lots of Ah? My dead battery is a Werker
31MDC: 12V, 105 Ah, 775 CCA.

Thanks for your help!

David
'02 EVC