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Les Schwab Batteries for Aux & Starting

terryobrien1
 

Anyone use them? Thoughts, or brands to consider? I need to replace my aux (6 years old)
and thinking abut the starting batt as well.

Thanks
tob
02 EVC 52,000


Les Schwab Batteries for Aux & Starting

terryobrien1
 

Anyone use them? Thoughts, or brands to consider? I need to replace my aux (6 years old)
and thinking abut the starting batt as well.

Thanks
tob
02 EVC 52,000


Re: amsoil ATF??

Dale Lucas
 

Dave,
Sorry to miss-lead about knocking.
Yes its true we do benefit from knock sensor technology sense the late 93 engines (the ones with the 10 to 1 compression ratio).
However even when we don't hear a knock the timing is still being retarded, so the theory is that a cooler engine is not retarding the timing as often and as far, so maybe there is a little more power for a little less $.
Only theory on the part of one mechanic, I haven't been able notice any difference as we use high test when traveling. The real test will be weekly commuting on regular.
Dale

dave_king_ev <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:

All EVs and EVcs since 1995 have knock sensors signal the ECM to time
spark just on the edge of knocking, no matter what octane you use.
Cool temps, hot temps, low octane, high octane makes no difference.
If you ever hear your motor knocking you have some other problem (bad
connections, bad knock sensors, intake leaks, defects in the fuel
injection, and so on).

Nice job on pre-cooling the loop to the transmission.

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@...> wrote:

All,
The Thermo. switch was changed out by our local non-dealer
mechanic. Because this lower temp. switch comes from an earlier model
VW, naturally the plug doesn't match so the mechanic changed the plug
on the wiring harness as well. He tells me that he does this to VWs
of all stripes, Vanagon waterboxers and Audis. (he also says that an
added benefit is that the engine running cooler reduces the tendency
for knocking/pinging, thus allowing the use of lower octane fuel,
although I haven't tried that)
The fans probably do run more, however I have noticed that after
cruising at speed (5 over the speed limit in California = 80+ with the
air temp. at 90+F) the fans are not running when we pull into a rest
stop, however they do come on in a minute or less. As for fans
failing, the general consensus on this site has been that the fans
fail when someone beats them up while working in the engine
compartment. (when I have to work around them I either insert a piece
of cardboard to protect them or remove them completely)
The cooler I used is from Summit Racing Equipment
www.summitracing.com model # DER-15502B, (cost $32.39 + shipping) it's
an "engine oil cooler" 3/4 inch thick with 1/2 inch tubing. As the
hoses coming out of the engine and going to the heat exchanger on top
of the trany. are approx. 3/4 inch. I.D., the larger the cooler tubing
the better. (this cooler was the only one they had that was thin
enough to fit behind the grill and in front of the AC heat exchanger
and that had at least 1/2 inch tubing.
For the plumbing part if this, I didn't cut any existing hoses but
disconnected the line coming from the engine and used a lot of brass
fittings to connect the new cooler into the coolant loop to the trany
heat exchanger. (the brass fittings can cost as much as the cooler,
and require more than one trip to the supplier) The new 3/4 inch
hoses where routed from the engine compartment to the grill area next
to the drivers side head light. there is some plastic shrouding that
can be cut away with a mat knife to allow the hoses though.
Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon



rvdalton <rvdalton@...> wrote:
I wondered also if this was a stock thermostatic switch
(unscrew the
VW one and install this one in its place)? If a stock switch, what
temperatures are readily available and from what source? Are you
saying both fans come on at 176 F with the new switch?

From what I've heard the VW cooling system (although operating at too
high a temperature for the ATF) has good capacity. This might mean
that the 176F fan switch alone would keep the ATF cooler (without the
separate cooler). If that's the case it might be a choice between
operating the engine too cold (176F or lower?), and operating the ATF
too high (over 200F but depends on how often you want to change ATF)
Also a factor is that the fans have been known to disintegrate with
resulting damage to the radiator, so operating the fans nearly all the
time may not be the best choice.

Rob

--- In ev_update@..., "jd_boldt" <jd_boldt@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@> wrote:
...I added a lower temp. thermostatic switch for the fans (80c / 176f
) and a cooler just behind the grill to pre-cool the coolant before
entering the heat exchanger on the top of the transmission. So far,
the ATF seems to be staying below 170F, even in the extreme heat and
climbing hills.


Dale;
can you elaborate on your tranny pre-cooler, (where did you source
that?) I'm looking for one that will fit into the space. My
preliminary experiment using a heater core showed the precooler to
have a positive result, but the heater core will not fit between Rad
and grill (too thick, hoses in wrong spot)

Also did you change the engine thermostat and fan thermos yourself,
You can elaborate on that as well or email me, I need to do that too.
I find the VR-6 and eurovan to challenge my previous VW-Diesel skills.

janb
Washougal, WA








Re: amsoil ATF??

dave_king_ev
 

All EVs and EVcs since 1995 have knock sensors signal the ECM to time
spark just on the edge of knocking, no matter what octane you use.
Cool temps, hot temps, low octane, high octane makes no difference.
If you ever hear your motor knocking you have some other problem (bad
connections, bad knock sensors, intake leaks, defects in the fuel
injection, and so on).

Nice job on pre-cooling the loop to the transmission.



--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@...> wrote:

All,
The Thermo. switch was changed out by our local non-dealer
mechanic. Because this lower temp. switch comes from an earlier model
VW, naturally the plug doesn't match so the mechanic changed the plug
on the wiring harness as well. He tells me that he does this to VWs
of all stripes, Vanagon waterboxers and Audis. (he also says that an
added benefit is that the engine running cooler reduces the tendency
for knocking/pinging, thus allowing the use of lower octane fuel,
although I haven't tried that)
The fans probably do run more, however I have noticed that after
cruising at speed (5 over the speed limit in California = 80+ with the
air temp. at 90+F) the fans are not running when we pull into a rest
stop, however they do come on in a minute or less. As for fans
failing, the general consensus on this site has been that the fans
fail when someone beats them up while working in the engine
compartment. (when I have to work around them I either insert a piece
of cardboard to protect them or remove them completely)
The cooler I used is from Summit Racing Equipment
www.summitracing.com model # DER-15502B, (cost $32.39 + shipping) it's
an "engine oil cooler" 3/4 inch thick with 1/2 inch tubing. As the
hoses coming out of the engine and going to the heat exchanger on top
of the trany. are approx. 3/4 inch. I.D., the larger the cooler tubing
the better. (this cooler was the only one they had that was thin
enough to fit behind the grill and in front of the AC heat exchanger
and that had at least 1/2 inch tubing.
For the plumbing part if this, I didn't cut any existing hoses but
disconnected the line coming from the engine and used a lot of brass
fittings to connect the new cooler into the coolant loop to the trany
heat exchanger. (the brass fittings can cost as much as the cooler,
and require more than one trip to the supplier) The new 3/4 inch
hoses where routed from the engine compartment to the grill area next
to the drivers side head light. there is some plastic shrouding that
can be cut away with a mat knife to allow the hoses though.
Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon



rvdalton <rvdalton@...> wrote:
I wondered also if this was a stock thermostatic switch
(unscrew the
VW one and install this one in its place)? If a stock switch, what
temperatures are readily available and from what source? Are you
saying both fans come on at 176 F with the new switch?

From what I've heard the VW cooling system (although operating at too
high a temperature for the ATF) has good capacity. This might mean
that the 176F fan switch alone would keep the ATF cooler (without the
separate cooler). If that's the case it might be a choice between
operating the engine too cold (176F or lower?), and operating the ATF
too high (over 200F but depends on how often you want to change ATF)
Also a factor is that the fans have been known to disintegrate with
resulting damage to the radiator, so operating the fans nearly all the
time may not be the best choice.

Rob

--- In ev_update@..., "jd_boldt" <jd_boldt@> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@> wrote:
...I added a lower temp. thermostatic switch for the fans (80c / 176f
) and a cooler just behind the grill to pre-cool the coolant before
entering the heat exchanger on the top of the transmission. So far,
the ATF seems to be staying below 170F, even in the extreme heat and
climbing hills.


Dale;
can you elaborate on your tranny pre-cooler, (where did you source
that?) I'm looking for one that will fit into the space. My
preliminary experiment using a heater core showed the precooler to
have a positive result, but the heater core will not fit between Rad
and grill (too thick, hoses in wrong spot)

Also did you change the engine thermostat and fan thermos yourself,
You can elaborate on that as well or email me, I need to do that too.
I find the VR-6 and eurovan to challenge my previous VW-Diesel skills.

janb
Washougal, WA






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: garage clearance

Larry Schellhase
 

Sometimes you need even more head room in a parking lot. The parking garage for UCLA's Royce Hall doesn't have a sign but I parked there many times with a good two inches of clearance. Once last summer after a evening concert my 99 EVC wouldn't start. The switch which lets the transmission know that you have your foot on the brake pedal broke and the transmission wouldn't come out of park. The two truck driver couldn't tow it because there wasn't enough room to lift it. I had to leave it there overnight get advice from this board on how to move it.

Larry
LA, CA

Pete Peterson <tds3pete@...> wrote: I measured mine at 6'8" also, but I don't have the guts to drive in
unless the sign says 7'....just chicken I guess.

Pete
95 EVC


Re: Please make the new owner of my Eurovan feel welcome

gti_matt
 

--- forest flanigan <creoflan@...> wrote:
Hey Matt

Sorry to see ya go (in Advance). I've only been on this forum for 9 months
or so but from what I've seen you have been a great help to many people. Are
going over to a sprinter or what? Keep on keeping on and good luck with any
new ventures the road brings you

Forest
95EVC
Thank you, and the others, for the nice words. No, not going for a Sprinter...I'll just say for
now it'll be very, very different from a Eurovan :)


Re: display and operating unit

forest flanigan
 

I'm not sure but I don't think the display has much to do with the fridge
--Any one else?

Forest




Re: Please make the new owner of my Eurovan feel welcome

dave803wms
 

Matt,

You will be missed by this group. Your experience, knowledge and willingness to help are
very evident. Although I didn't post alot, I always read all of your posts - along with Mike's
and Gomi's. Lots of other dedicated and knowledgable people on this forum - Larry,
Robert, Sea2river, Forest, Florian, to name a few. It's the best on-line forum I have found,
and one of the good things about owning a Eurovan.

I too have sold my EVC - it's now in the Seattle area (from N. Calif.). I'm hanging around
too, because this is such a neat forum, but will eventually leave.

Best wishes to all of you.

Dave
99EVC (ex-owner)


--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

Hi all,

I just sold my 2000 Eurovan today and it's on its way on a nice long drive to its new
home waaaaay
up the coast in Oregon (a long way from San Diego). I sent the new owner of this group
the URL to
the group and recommended he join. Please make him feel welcome.

I might hang around on the list for a little while but eventually will probably drop off if
keeping up with messages gets tough to do. Feel free to email me with any Eurovan
questions
though if you want...just send to this same email address.

Thank you to everyone who has posted up great advice and has been helpful over the
past 6 years
that I've had my van.

-Matt


Re: amsoil ATF??

Dale Lucas
 

All,
The Thermo. switch was changed out by our local non-dealer mechanic. Because this lower temp. switch comes from an earlier model VW, naturally the plug doesn't match so the mechanic changed the plug on the wiring harness as well. He tells me that he does this to VWs of all stripes, Vanagon waterboxers and Audis. (he also says that an added benefit is that the engine running cooler reduces the tendency for knocking/pinging, thus allowing the use of lower octane fuel, although I haven't tried that)
The fans probably do run more, however I have noticed that after cruising at speed (5 over the speed limit in California = 80+ with the air temp. at 90+F) the fans are not running when we pull into a rest stop, however they do come on in a minute or less. As for fans failing, the general consensus on this site has been that the fans fail when someone beats them up while working in the engine compartment. (when I have to work around them I either insert a piece of cardboard to protect them or remove them completely)
The cooler I used is from Summit Racing Equipment www.summitracing.com model # DER-15502B, (cost $32.39 + shipping) it's an "engine oil cooler" 3/4 inch thick with 1/2 inch tubing. As the hoses coming out of the engine and going to the heat exchanger on top of the trany. are approx. 3/4 inch. I.D., the larger the cooler tubing the better. (this cooler was the only one they had that was thin enough to fit behind the grill and in front of the AC heat exchanger and that had at least 1/2 inch tubing.
For the plumbing part if this, I didn't cut any existing hoses but disconnected the line coming from the engine and used a lot of brass fittings to connect the new cooler into the coolant loop to the trany heat exchanger. (the brass fittings can cost as much as the cooler, and require more than one trip to the supplier) The new 3/4 inch hoses where routed from the engine compartment to the grill area next to the drivers side head light. there is some plastic shrouding that can be cut away with a mat knife to allow the hoses though.
Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon



rvdalton <rvdalton@...> wrote:
I wondered also if this was a stock thermostatic switch (unscrew the
VW one and install this one in its place)? If a stock switch, what
temperatures are readily available and from what source? Are you
saying both fans come on at 176 F with the new switch?

From what I've heard the VW cooling system (although operating at too
high a temperature for the ATF) has good capacity. This might mean
that the 176F fan switch alone would keep the ATF cooler (without the
separate cooler). If that's the case it might be a choice between
operating the engine too cold (176F or lower?), and operating the ATF
too high (over 200F but depends on how often you want to change ATF)
Also a factor is that the fans have been known to disintegrate with
resulting damage to the radiator, so operating the fans nearly all the
time may not be the best choice.

Rob

--- In ev_update@..., "jd_boldt" <jd_boldt@...> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@> wrote:
...I added a lower temp. thermostatic switch for the fans (80c / 176f
) and a cooler just behind the grill to pre-cool the coolant before
entering the heat exchanger on the top of the transmission. So far,
the ATF seems to be staying below 170F, even in the extreme heat and
climbing hills.


Dale;
can you elaborate on your tranny pre-cooler, (where did you source
that?) I'm looking for one that will fit into the space. My
preliminary experiment using a heater core showed the precooler to
have a positive result, but the heater core will not fit between Rad
and grill (too thick, hoses in wrong spot)

Also did you change the engine thermostat and fan thermos yourself,
You can elaborate on that as well or email me, I need to do that too.
I find the VR-6 and eurovan to challenge my previous VW-Diesel skills.

janb
Washougal, WA


display and operating unit

 

hi everyone. I am trying to get a fridge re-started but my central
display and operating unit above the driver no longer works. I had a
short in my aux battery and have replaced the relay switch and it
seems to be re-charging again ok, but the on/off function no onger
works. The unit can be replaced (500 bux!!) Any ideas? thanks


Re: garage clearance

 

I measured mine at 6'8" also, but I don't have the guts to drive in
unless the sign says 7'....just chicken I guess.

Pete
95 EVC


Re: Please make the new owner of my Eurovan feel welcome

 

Matt- You've been a lot of help on this site and other VW sites.
Thanks for contributing.

We'll watch out for the newbie.

Happy trails.

Pete

-- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

Hi all,

I just sold my 2000 Eurovan today and it's on its way on a nice
long drive to its new home waaaaay
up the coast in Oregon (a long way from San Diego). I sent the new
owner of this group the URL to
the group and recommended he join. Please make him feel welcome.

I might hang around on the list for a little while but eventually
will probably drop off if
keeping up with messages gets tough to do. Feel free to email me
with any Eurovan questions
though if you want...just send to this same email address.

Thank you to everyone who has posted up great advice and has been
helpful over the past 6 years
that I've had my van.

-Matt


Re: Please make the new owner of my Eurovan feel welcome

forest flanigan
 

Hey Matt

Sorry to see ya go (in Advance). I've only been on this forum for 9 months
or so but from what I've seen you have been a great help to many people. Are
going over to a sprinter or what? Keep on keeping on and good luck with any
new ventures the road brings you

Forest
95EVC

On Sat, May 31, 2008 at 12:39 PM, gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

Hi all,

I just sold my 2000 Eurovan today and it's on its way on a nice long drive
to its new home waaaaay
up the coast in Oregon (a long way from San Diego). I sent the new owner of
this group the URL to
the group and recommended he join. Please make him feel welcome.

I might hang around on the list for a little while but eventually will
probably drop off if
keeping up with messages gets tough to do. Feel free to email me with any
Eurovan questions
though if you want...just send to this same email address.

Thank you to everyone who has posted up great advice and has been helpful
over the past 6 years
that I've had my van.

-Matt



Re: garage clearance

Rick Gordon
 

I measured mine - at 6' 8" this morning (just a smidgeon under that but I'm rounding up).
(Maybe I should fill the gas tank just to load things down a bit more!)

Called the garage, they say they have 6' 10" - and have had "full- sized vans" in there - but
I need to get to one of the lower levels and am worried they don't size out.

Think I'll just pack everything up tightly into the Toyota...

On May 31, 2008, at 10:30 AM, Jim White wrote:

Stuart MacMillan wrote:
...
My '97 comes in at 6' 7", and I don't go into anything under 7', but 6' 8"
should work, as long as it's level and you don't bounce. But you only have
an inch, and remember to close the vent cover!
Last week I was in San Jose for a conference downtown and the the
parking lots are full for blocks. I see a big parking structure across
from the college and it says 8'2" clearance. Yippee! Even with the
GoWesty! luggage rack bag and the CB antenna Wolfie (97 EVC) clears
that! We go in with no problem but when we get to the second level the
roof suddenly gets lower, a *lot* lower. I had to put the luggage bag
inside (covered with dead bugs, ick!) and remove the antenna (but not
before it got bent). Don't know the exact height but we had hardly an
inch of clearance on most of the beams and I drove quite gently up the
four floors to find a full size open space.

Jim


Re: My AAMCO flush & change

dave_king_ev
 

Lots of misinformation below. Many shops will flush, including some
dealers. Prices for a flush vary from a couple hundred to almost a
thousand. Also, color is only vaguely a clue as colors are often dyes
that have nothing to do with fluid properties.

Basically, fluids are either mineral-based (like Esso, sold under the
Pentosin brand name) or petroleum-based (Dexron-type and synthetics).
Either can be used (some shops like GoWesty swear by frequently
changed Dexron while others like VW insist on mineral-based).

Complete service includes both a fluid exchange and a pan drop. The
former to remove and replace fluid inside the torque converter and the
latter to clean the pan and filter. Complete service costs more,
obviously.



Trans t

--- In ev_update@..., "jd_boldt" <jd_boldt@...> wrote:

You price range is well within the quotes I've got (which are all
adequately high). Costs ~ $70 to do it yourself. With new gasket and
filter and 4L VW fluid. It takes ~ 1hr.

How many quarts of ATF are required to flush & fill this
transmission?
I doubt if they did a flush and fill (I have not found anyone that
will / can do this), likely a pan drop and refill ~ 3.5 or 4 qts. @ ~
$8.00/qt for full synthetic fluid

How can I check to see if it he added enough fluid?
Std checking procedure, level vehicle, hot and in park, remove 6mm hex
in bottom of pan. (there is a 'stand-pipe' that will drip if full,
will flow if too full)

How can I determine if he added the correct fluid? Color?
(I will call him Monday and ask for a spec-sheet, a certifcation from
him or something to prove the which fluid he used).
You will have to trust him, but his will be red (as is any generic
ATF) , your stock stuff brown, unique smell, but not burnt smell)

How do I check the fluid on this vehicle without buying a $150
dipstick kit?
see above

or


I've done mine 2x recently to refresh 53,000 mile tranny fluid on used
rig. I bought my change kit from local VW parts place ~ $30 and the
Pentosin for $8.40/L. The second time I just bought the tranny filter
~$6.00 and added a couple qts Amsoil ATF. Did a thousand mile trip
with noticeably better tranny temps this week. Will eventually add
more Amsoil, though subsequent changes. I have a Rialta, so ~ 3000#
more than a EV.

For reverse pause, is this only cold? Sometimes it helps to warm it
up in N. Mine hesitated a tad when low on fluid, and makes
significant more noise when cold (under 100F) Probably in need of
rebuild due to some serious climbs I did in AZ @ ghost-towns (with
previous 'old' fluid'. It makes a huge temp improvement to use 2nd and
3rd when climbing, and anytime RPM drops below 2500.


Please make the new owner of my Eurovan feel welcome

gti_matt
 

Hi all,

I just sold my 2000 Eurovan today and it's on its way on a nice long drive to its new home waaaaay
up the coast in Oregon (a long way from San Diego). I sent the new owner of this group the URL to
the group and recommended he join. Please make him feel welcome.

I might hang around on the list for a little while but eventually will probably drop off if
keeping up with messages gets tough to do. Feel free to email me with any Eurovan questions
though if you want...just send to this same email address.

Thank you to everyone who has posted up great advice and has been helpful over the past 6 years
that I've had my van.

-Matt


Re: My AAMCO flush & change

 

You price range is well within the quotes I've got (which are all
adequately high). Costs ~ $70 to do it yourself. With new gasket and
filter and 4L VW fluid. It takes ~ 1hr.

How many quarts of ATF are required to flush & fill this
transmission?
I doubt if they did a flush and fill (I have not found anyone that
will / can do this), likely a pan drop and refill ~ 3.5 or 4 qts. @ ~
$8.00/qt for full synthetic fluid

How can I check to see if it he added enough fluid?
Std checking procedure, level vehicle, hot and in park, remove 6mm hex
in bottom of pan. (there is a 'stand-pipe' that will drip if full,
will flow if too full)

How can I determine if he added the correct fluid? Color?
(I will call him Monday and ask for a spec-sheet, a certifcation from
him or something to prove the which fluid he used).
You will have to trust him, but his will be red (as is any generic
ATF) , your stock stuff brown, unique smell, but not burnt smell)

How do I check the fluid on this vehicle without buying a $150
dipstick kit?
see above

or


I've done mine 2x recently to refresh 53,000 mile tranny fluid on used
rig. I bought my change kit from local VW parts place ~ $30 and the
Pentosin for $8.40/L. The second time I just bought the tranny filter
~$6.00 and added a couple qts Amsoil ATF. Did a thousand mile trip
with noticeably better tranny temps this week. Will eventually add
more Amsoil, though subsequent changes. I have a Rialta, so ~ 3000#
more than a EV.

For reverse pause, is this only cold? Sometimes it helps to warm it
up in N. Mine hesitated a tad when low on fluid, and makes
significant more noise when cold (under 100F) Probably in need of
rebuild due to some serious climbs I did in AZ @ ghost-towns (with
previous 'old' fluid'. It makes a huge temp improvement to use 2nd and
3rd when climbing, and anytime RPM drops below 2500.


Re: FS: 2000 Eurovan MV

gti_matt
 

In case anyone is searching past messages...this has now been sold.

--- gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

Located in San Diego, California 92103

60,400 miles - VERY low for its age - only about 7,500 miles per year. I've only put just over
45,000 miles on it in the 6 years I've owned it. You'd have a hard time finding another Eurovan
of
this year that didn't have 90K, 100K, 120K miles on it.

First owner of this vehicle I believe may have been Volkswagen of America in Michigan which used
it as a fleet vehicle (run a Carfax report and you'll see). It was then bought at auction and
offered for sale by Lusti Motors here in San Diego and then I bought it (and I still have it
serviced by Lusti Motors).

Clean title and clean Carfax report.


Modifications/accessories/extras:

H&R Cup Kit suspension (lowered front and rear) and recent shock absorbers

Plus-size 17" RH AD Cuprad rims with Falken 245-45-17 99-rated tires

1/2 smoked rear taillamps

Hella Micro DE front foglamps and OEM-style rear foglamp

European headlamp/foglamp switch

European-spec headlamps with integrated parking lamp

Clear front signal lamps

Blaupunkt AM/FM/CD/MP3 player with remote control

Webasto front power moonroof professionally installed by American Sunroof (ASC) in the Miramar
area, similar to the OE VW optional moonroof

Rear bed cushion cover, carpeted floor mats, and rear bumper protection strip from
Eurocampers.com

OEM master interior light switch from the European ambulance versions.

Pics and more information at


____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ


Re: FS: 2000 Eurovan MV, low miles, lots of extras, $12995 USD

gti_matt
 

In case anyone is searching past messages...this has now been sold.

--- gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

Located in San Diego, California 92103

61,000 miles - VERY low for its age - only about 7,500 miles per year. I've only put just over
35,000 miles on it in the 6 years I've owned it. You'd have a hard time finding another Eurovan
of
this year that didn't have 90K, 100K, 120K miles on it.

First owner of this vehicle I believe may have been Volkswagen of America in Michigan which used
it as a fleet vehicle (run a Carfax report and you'll see). It was then bought at auction and
offered for sale by Lusti Motors here in San Diego and then I bought it (and I still have it
serviced by Lusti Motors).

6-cylinder, automatic transmission, Climatronic front/rear automatic climate control, separate
front and rear air conditioning, dual airbags, flip-up table, quad seating, rear seat folds down
into double bed, good for weekend camping for two people or everyday people carrier for 7
people,
HUGE inside with seats taken out for cargo-van hauling duty. Typical mileage that I see is 16
MPG
city and about 20 MPG highway although I have gotten as high as 21.5 MPG highway at 70mph with
the
cruise control set and climate system in economy mode. Fantastic van that most people have
forgotten about or never heard of.

Clean title and clean Carfax report.

Recent maintenance:

I have all receipts since I've owned the vehicle (I bought it in Spring of 2002 with 25K miles
on
it). It's been maintained by a VW dealer, some light maintenance work done by me, and other work
by Lusti Motors.

Synthetic oil

Less than 10K miles on tires

Less than 10K miles on rear brakes, Less than 5K miles on front brake pads.

Less than 3K miles on NGK Iridium spark plugs

Recent brake fluid flush (less than 6 months ago) using German ATE Super Blue brake fluid

Auto trans fluid changed by VW dealer about 18K miles ago (every 40K miles is the recommended
interval)

Modifications/accessories/extras:

H&R Cup Kit suspension (lowered front and rear) and new shock absorbers

Plus-size 17" RH AD Cuprad rims with Falken 245-45-17 99-rated tires

1/2 smoked rear taillamps

Hella Micro DE front foglamps and OEM-style rear foglamp

Headlamp/foglamp switch from the European version of this vehicle

European-spec headlamps with integrated parking lamp

Clear front signal lamps

Blaupunkt AM/FM/CD/MP3 player with remote control

Webasto front power moonroof professionally installed by American Sunroof (ASC) in the Miramar
area, similar to the OE VW optional moonroof

Rear bed cushion cover, carpeted floor mats, and rear bumper protection strip from
Eurocampers.com


OEM master interior light switch from the European ambulance versions.

More info and pics at


____________________________________________________________________________________
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know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ


Re: FS: 2000 Eurovan MV, low miles, lots of extras, $12995 USD

 

Congrats. Are they young folks? Will they join us here?

Bob W.

In a message dated 5/31/2008 3:17:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gti_matt@... writes:




In case anyone is searching past messages...this has now been sold.

--- gti_matt <_gti_matt@... (mailto:gti_matt@...) > wrote:

Located in San Diego, California 92103

61,000 miles - VERY low for its age - only about 7,500 miles per year.
I've only put just over
35,000 miles on it in the 6 years I've owned it. You'd have a hard time
finding another Eurovan
of
this year that didn't have 90K, 100K, 120K miles on it.

First owner of this vehicle I believe may have been Volkswagen of America
in Michigan which used
it as a fleet vehicle (run a Carfax report and you'll see). It was then
bought at auction and
offered for sale by Lusti Motors here in San Diego and then I bought it
(and I still have it
serviced by Lusti Motors).

6-cylinder, automatic transmission, Climatronic front/rear automatic
climate control, separate
front and rear air conditioning, dual airbags, flip-up table, quad
seating, rear seat folds down
into double bed, good for weekend camping for two people or everyday
people carrier for 7
people,
HUGE inside with seats taken out for cargo-van hauling duty. Typical
mileage that I see is 16
MPG
city and about 20 MPG highway although I have gotten as high as 21.5 MPG
highway at 70mph with
the
cruise control set and climate system in economy mode. Fantastic van that
most people have
forgotten about or never heard of.

Clean title and clean Carfax report.

Recent maintenance:

I have all receipts since I've owned the vehicle (I bought it in Spring of
2002 with 25K miles
on
it). It's been maintained by a VW dealer, some light maintenance work done
by me, and other work
by Lusti Motors.

Synthetic oil

Less than 10K miles on tires

Less than 10K miles on rear brakes, Less than 5K miles on front brake
pads.

Less than 3K miles on NGK Iridium spark plugs

Recent brake fluid flush (less than 6 months ago) using German ATE Super
Blue brake fluid

Auto trans fluid changed by VW dealer about 18K miles ago (every 40K miles
is the recommended
interval)

Modifications/ Modific Mod

H&R Cup Kit suspension (lowered front and rear) and new shock absorbers

Plus-size 17" RH AD Cuprad rims with Falken 245-45-17 99-rated tires

1/2 smoked rear taillamps

Hella Micro DE front foglamps and OEM-style rear foglamp

Headlamp/foglamp switch from the European version of this vehicle

European-spec headlamps with integrated parking lamp

Clear front signal lamps

Blaupunkt AM/FM/CD/MP3 player with remote control

Webasto front power moonroof professionally installed by American Sunroof
(ASC) in the Miramar
area, similar to the OE VW optional moonroof

Rear bed cushion cover, carpeted floor mats, and rear bumper protection
strip from
Eurocampers.


OEM master interior light switch from the European ambulance versions.

More info and pics at _
()


____________ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____
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know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
_.<W.<Wht_
(;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ)






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