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Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
jack_son_73
Larry -
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DDL = Daytime Driving Lights. My '03 EVC & '01 Passat have it - not sure about '95 Passat. I am still using original Trojan house bat, & picked up a marine 'deep-cycle' the same size. I built a larger bat box, air & water tight, vented like the original, with drain. I added additional +/- DC cables from front battery relay to converter, & to new bat box. For my Ham transmitter amplifier, I need about 30% of the house battery current with key down while sending Morse Code, but part of that comes from alternator when it's running. I'm considering a higher current alternator. The 3/4" plastic box was such a big project, I wish I had just put in a pair of Optima bats, & omitted the bat box. I could even have added a 3rd Optima, and still had storage space. Jack_son ================ --In ev_update@..., Larry Schellhase <schellhase@..> wrote:
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Re: OBD II/ VAG COM
I've read about the after market radio thing, too. It may be in the
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information I read when I bought the vag com. Have you checked their site? On Fri, Jun 20, 2008 at 8:06 PM, mike shea <m_shea@...> wrote:
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Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run
Only one fuel pump for the motor. Not sure if there is another one
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somewhere for something on the RV part. Starts and quits could be electrical, but could also be - lack of fuel (not enough pressure to keep up with running engine but gets enough catch -- unlikely in my opinion) - inability to exhaust properly (catalytic converter clogging the exhaust -- we've seen this before on this list) - lack of enough fresh air into firing chambers, but I have a hard time imagining an air filter that dirty. On Fri, Jun 20, 2008 at 5:05 PM, John Johnson <johnnie5@...> wrote:
Are there two fuels pumps - a primary and secondary? I see mention of |
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Re: OBD II/ VAG COM
i've been to advanced auto and firestone and niether of them could get connection either.
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From: "Steve@..." <steve@...> |
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Re: Need a custom gas spring for your top or hatch?
quiltdog
Thanks Stuart! I was thinking about getting something like this for
our 2002. I'm still looking for the middle passenger seats for it, BTW. Ann McD you can reduce pressure on until it works properly, then you can send itback and get a set with your required pressure. Pretty cool:spring being 100 lbs: SPD-GSVL-3100-100, $21.53 each. I think this willalso work for the rear hatch. So, if you have rack on the hatch and wantextra lift, here's how you get it. |
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Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
forest flanigan
Hey Larry --
I have refilled at many stations that did not have a recovery system--in my last camper (cab over on a pick up) I refueled all the way down the Baja Peninsula with the propane on , and that camper had a "normal " fridge where you could open the door on the outside and see the flame burning. In fact thats how I had to light it ---my wife would hold the red button in and I would put a flame to it. Again -I 'm not stating this is safe practice. This is a recommedation to the writer that was losing to much battery. Jackson may have the right idea--pull the sucker out and put in one that really works. Both Sportsmoble and GTRV put electrics in their rigs. As I have stated many times on this forum this is the worst designed propane refer I have come across--and by far the hardest to maintain--I have had mine out 4 times this week to get it ready for summer. I think that Winnebago must have threatened Norcold into this design. Maybe saying --"if you don't make it this way we will go elsewhere for our parts". Norcold should have told them they would NOT build such a sh%^%tty unit so as to not ruin their reputation. But in the era of the big boy's pushing us all around that's not how business is done. It's a proven fact that companies make different types of the same product for different stores. Iwanted to get some T-shirts years ago to make some Chrstmas presents --bought some Haines from K-mart and they were so thin that I couldn't use them --I went looking for a better brand and wound up buying Haines --just not "the they made for K-mart " as the seller said. Why would a good company that makes a good product do this? Forest with a finally working Norcold |
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Re: OBD II/ VAG COM
Do you have an aftermarket radio? I had my EVC inspected after I
bought it used & everything was fine with the ODBII, but then had a new stereo installed & the ODB port no longer worked. Check the archives for info on this, I think it was even in a VW service bulletin. When I went back to the radio installer, all he had to do was cut one line. Bill 01 EVC Rosa Blanco --- In ev_update@..., "vweuro00" <m_shea@...> wrote: get any ideas. |
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Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run
If it's a Rialta, it's probably on a 95 chassis. The 10th digit in
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the VIN will tell you for sure. S=95, T=96. The 95 had OBDI and used a 2-pin connector. It's under the dash on the left side. There are actually 2 separate connectors, 1 black and 1 white. They look sort of like spade lugs inside plastic housings. Duane 05HD Rialta --- In ev_update@..., "John Johnson" <johnnie5@...> wrote:
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Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run
John Johnson
--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:
So if I was going to hot wire the switch I would run 12 volts from the battery to where, as a test to bypass the switch run position? I can't find the OBD connector, period. I agree on the pump/regulator - it fires up smoothly then dies. The vacuum hoses disconnected bother me, would the ECU turn off with a vacuum leak? Has anyone checked the ignition switch (behind the key). Those have |
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Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run
dave_king_ev
Has anyone checked the ignition switch (behind the key). Those have
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been a weak link on VWs since the Third Reich. Don't expect OBDI to tell you what's wrong with the ignition....it can't detect that level of detail usually. After replacing two fuel pumps that should tell two things: there was nothing wrong with the original pump, and there was nothing wrong with the first replacement pump. Leave the second replacement alone. There is a fuel pressure regulator on the injector rail, I think (at least that's what you'd expect), but I bet your problem isn't fuel. Best way to get a manual right away is to buy one from Bentley direct. You can always find them on ebay, too, for a lot less. --- In ev_update@..., "John Johnson" <johnnie5@...> wrote:
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Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
Larry Schellhase
What house battery do you have and what is a DDL?
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Thanks Larry --- On Fri, 6/20/08, jack_son_73 <jackr1@...> wrote:
From: jack_son_73 <jackr1@...> Subject: [ev_update] Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem) To: ev_update@... Date: Friday, June 20, 2008, 2:12 PM Larry - Most fuel pumps I've used in the past few years have the vapor recovery system. They even draw gas gurgling back underground if you try to over- fill, of course. However, it was not until I was following this list for a few years that I realized I was possibly damaging my vehicles by topping off the tank. While trying to FILL my tank for accurate measurements, or max miles before next fill-up, I sometimes overflowed gas on my feet, ground, car... Yeah, not smart, and sometimes our first big mistake is our last. I may have pulled the nozzle out too far - as some tank necks will not take high pressure fuel pumps w/o resetting. The vapor would only need to travel 1 foot - but if I can smell it from two feet away, the Norcold might ignite it. I would not use propane devices while driving, & especially while near others who are refueling next to me. None of the pump jockeys went to "refueling school" - & I obviously skipped that part of my education. Some tunnels have signs prohibiting propane tanks, even if turned off. You are supposed to stop for inspection, or be directed to an alternate route. They mostly look for large reefer trucks, but it also applies to the small "BBQ" LP tanks. With my extra deep-cycle house battery, there is no trouble keeping up with the [15A?] Norcold - as inefficient as it is. I'd disable my DDL if 15A was that critical. I run 20 to 85A with my Ham Rig on. Winnie must have a brother-in-law or other connection at Norcold, to have helped them unload so many poorly designed refrigerators. My main reason for never using ANY propane EVER, is the difficulty, inconvenience, & expense of refilling. After reading about the soot problems with Norcold & furnace, + lighting & relighting, cleaning - I am very happy. I'd take both appliances out, & leave them out, if it wasn't such a difficult task. My chest Norcold would fit in place of the original unit, & I'd have a choice of freezer or cooler, a fully adjustable thermostat, and only 1/3 the current. + I could leave it out when not needed. My LARGE chest-style Norcold portable cooler- freezer only draws 4-5A on 12V [I've never measured AC amps], and it naturally runs a lot less if set above -32F. It's hard to believe it has a compressor, yet draws the same current as my DC 6-pack or large Koolatron - both solid state coolers, @ ~4.5A. I must use an external power supply to run the solid state units on 117V AC, but the compressor unit just plugs into 115V AC, Regards, Jack_son ============ === --In ev_update@yahoogrou ps.com, Larry Schellhase <schellhase@ .> wrote: Forest do you do this in areas that do not have vapor recoverysystems on the gas pumps? I feel relatively safe refueling with the Norcold running on propane when the gas pump has a vapor recovery system, but when the pumps do not have vapor recovery I turn the fridge off before filling. * * * Warning - I am not stating this is a safe practice orrecommending that anyone else should do what I do. * * * Larry LA, CA [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run
John Johnson
I was asked to look at a hanger queen that several shops have worked
on. Look under hood reveals many vacuum lines disconnected and the decal is not helpful - is there an online hose map for this engine? The owner states two fuel pumps replaced to correct no start condition. But engine turns over and fires but when key is released to the run position the engine stops? This is a 1996 but I cannot find any OBD connector under the dash. Can someone give me an idea where the connector is? Is there any way to check from the VIN the actual date of the chassis/engine? I'm thinking it may be earlier than tittle stated 1996? Are there two fuels pumps - a primary and secondary? I see mention of a regulator also - mechanical or electric. I'm thinking that if the motor starts but then quits there is an electrical problem? Best way to obtain a manual? Vehicle was driven to its present location after a "hard start" then refused to run. Help |
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Re: 2003 EV MV Transmission
dave_king_ev
Get a Bentley and show them the official maintenance schedule. You
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definitely should have a Bentley regardless. Or, ask them to show you what schedule they use that says "sealed for life" (or whatever it is they are claiming it says). Dealers looking to avoid working on Eurovans is the rule, not the exception. Get used to it, and be prepared to return their lame volleys. --- In ev_update@..., "efickel" <EFickel@...> wrote:
Can you cite a source for your "sealed for life" statement, or is thatI can tell you, in my case, three dealers have refused to change the |
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Re: 2003 EV MV Transmission
dave_king_ev
Can you cite a source for your "sealed for life" statement, or is that
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just another internet rumor? (I hope that misinformation is not based on the glovebox owner's manual, which doesn't cover everything. For example, my owner's manual shows only a handful of items at the 15,000 mile service interval, while the factory service manual shows almost two dozen items. Of course dealers know this, and know to reference the complete schedule. They don't check the glovebox -- LOL. But, even if they did check the glovebox manual, it doesn't say "sealed for life" either.) The "Official Factory Service Manual" Bentley states "replace ATF" on the 40K miles schedule (page A 16) and then refers the technician to page A 63 ("ATF, replacing") which spells out the fluid change procedure for both the 098 trans (used on the inline-5) and the 01P trans (used on the VR6). --- In ev_update@..., "Dan Cross" <dan.cross@...> wrote:
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Re: OBD II/ VAG COM
Mike,
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What are you using to scan with? You might stop by an Autozone and see if they can scan it. Steve 636-337-7700 888-797-5994 - order desk On Jun 20, 2008, at 4:26 PM, vweuro00 wrote:
my check engine light is on and i'm getting no signal to the OBD II |
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OBD II/ VAG COM
my check engine light is on and i'm getting no signal to the OBD II
port. i checked the wires going to it. two of them are ground wires that both have a good ground. one has 12v going to it and that one is fine. the other is the gray/white wire. i'm not sure where that one goes to. the bentley manual shows that it goes to the radio. that doesn't seem right to me. at any rate, i'm two months past my inspection now as i've been trying to figure this out. i'd love to get any ideas. thanks mike |
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Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
jack_son_73
Larry -
Most fuel pumps I've used in the past few years have the vapor recovery system. They even draw gas gurgling back underground if you try to over- fill, of course. However, it was not until I was following this list for a few years that I realized I was possibly damaging my vehicles by topping off the tank. While trying to FILL my tank for accurate measurements, or max miles before next fill-up, I sometimes overflowed gas on my feet, ground, car... Yeah, not smart, and sometimes our first big mistake is our last. I may have pulled the nozzle out too far - as some tank necks will not take high pressure fuel pumps w/o resetting. The vapor would only need to travel 1 foot - but if I can smell it from two feet away, the Norcold might ignite it. I would not use propane devices while driving, & especially while near others who are refueling next to me. None of the pump jockeys went to "refueling school" - & I obviously skipped that part of my education. Some tunnels have signs prohibiting propane tanks, even if turned off. You are supposed to stop for inspection, or be directed to an alternate route. They mostly look for large reefer trucks, but it also applies to the small "BBQ" LP tanks. With my extra deep-cycle house battery, there is no trouble keeping up with the [15A?] Norcold - as inefficient as it is. I'd disable my DDL if 15A was that critical. I run 20 to 85A with my Ham Rig on. Winnie must have a brother-in-law or other connection at Norcold, to have helped them unload so many poorly designed refrigerators. My main reason for never using ANY propane EVER, is the difficulty, inconvenience, & expense of refilling. After reading about the soot problems with Norcold & furnace, + lighting & relighting, cleaning - I am very happy. I'd take both appliances out, & leave them out, if it wasn't such a difficult task. My chest Norcold would fit in place of the original unit, & I'd have a choice of freezer or cooler, a fully adjustable thermostat, and only 1/3 the current. + I could leave it out when not needed. My LARGE chest-style Norcold portable cooler- freezer only draws 4-5A on 12V [I've never measured AC amps], and it naturally runs a lot less if set above -32F. It's hard to believe it has a compressor, yet draws the same current as my DC 6-pack or large Koolatron - both solid state coolers, @ ~4.5A. I must use an external power supply to run the solid state units on 117V AC, but the compressor unit just plugs into 115V AC, Regards, Jack_son =============== --In ev_update@..., Larry Schellhase <schellhase@.> wrote: systems on the gas pumps? I feel relatively safe refueling with the Norcold running on propane when the gas pump has a vapor recovery system, but when the pumps do not have vapor recovery I turn the fridge off before filling. recommending that anyone else should do what I do. * * *
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Re: 2003 EV MV Transmission
Dan Cross
The reasons nobody will flush a VW automatic are threefold:
1) Most of the 098-01X series of transmissions are stated by VW as being "Sealed for life". This is not true for the later EVs but VW has a lot of trouble keeping this fact strait and the dealers are even more clueless. The independents are no better. Anyone who knows jack about ATF knows you should change it according to usage conditions and the entire 098 series is harsh on fluid and the 01P in the EV is downright brutal on ATF. Bottom line change it every 40K of less. 1) Because you need custom fittings to connect to the tranny cooler outlet/inlet and unless you make your own there is currently only one place to buy readymade fittings. 2) In order to install the connections to do the flush on a VW AT you first need to get the OEM cooler off the tranny and out of the way. Depending on the vehicle and certainly true for the 6 cylinder EV it is a PITA. Most EVrs after discovering the importance of proper AT care opt to drain the fluid, drop and clean the pan, change the filter and refill the fluid as described in the files. If it has been a long time and or the fluid is toast then they will button it up turn it over and repeat the drain and fill a couple times. This will get most of the old stuff out. Proper fill level is critical and temperature dependent. The fluid you want is Pentosin ATF1 Equivalent to Audi Vw G 052 162 A2 you can get it at Europarts and elsewhere. IVAN Therefore: I am, Dan --- In ev_update@..., "efickel" <EFickel@...> wrote: of 115 miles. I suppose I need to have it towed -- could I drive it? Hehim to use a rebuilt transmission from one of the websites on this list?months? process. BTW -- is there an agreed upon source for the the transmission fluid |
Duane
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