开云体育

Thank you guys for the for confirmation and reinforcement. I saw the van again today and did some more troubleshooting (new air filter, new fuel pressure regulator, check spark plugs, try to make

If you have access to the wiring diagrams, they give the wire size in circular mils. /g/eurovanupdate/files/vw.t4.wd.48.pdf is an example.? Most have a close standard gauge.? If in

One thing some of us found years ago is that the loom is tie wrapped to a bracket just inside the cab. Thanks Duane I heard others have just clip the tie wrap and let it hang. I'll see if one is

Whatever you can do to prevent bending will help.? One thing some of us found years ago is that the loom is tie wrapped to a bracket just inside the cab.? That causes it to bend instead of 'float'

Mike, Justin thanks for the replies. My mirrors stopped working a number of years ago and now my windows stick in the up or down position- unless I open or close the door- depending on what mood

There is one easy way to tell: peel back the elbow boot where the wires run and see if you find broken wires. 9.5/10 times that’s the problem and the location. As far as adding extra length of

Same issue happens without power locks too. I have replaced the latch pieces on both doors. Poor design on the coil/wire. The spring idea is better than the o-ring option people have posted.

I've had this problem, and my understanding is that it's usually caused by one lock-driver being faulty- the signal to lock is received but it does not lock, thus driving a signal to the other locks

Might I ask if you need this repair due to your door locks going up and down on their own? My 2002 Eurovan MV developed this problem recently and is unusable until I find a solution. I am told that it

Ingenious! Have you found a place to buy such a spring? And how to remove the lock handle when it continues to go up and down?

Did you ever solve this? My 2002 Eurovan MV locks are all going crazy, and they NEVER stop—i.e., do not lock in the down position, they just keep going!

Thanks I’ll try that! Domokos Hadnagy [email protected]> wrote:

I'm about to repair a driver's door harness with broken wires. May end up doing all 22 wires. Some you can see the cracked and exposed wire others-esp the smaller ones- nothing shows. Would adding

That's what I thought until I got some of the hose.? You can use the old end pieces and check valve.? Don't even need any clamps.? Just make sure you don't put a kink in the hose.? Cost is about

? It’s a molded hose with a check valve in it. I think the whole thing has to come as a single piece.. Attached is a more complete picture. Domokos Hadnagy

If it's the main line for the brake booster, you should be able to use Gates 27231 vacuum hose. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 227K Miles

The enclosed picture is the hose I am looking for . Can anyone help me.Number is by screwdriver. It is a five cylinder 1995 engine. Thanks Domokos

The SAI failed about 25 years ago, disconnected, passes Oregon sniffer rules. YMIV I suppose but looks optional…one less drag on the serpentine belt! 1995 Eurovan Camper Syncro 450000 miles and

Hi Radek, As far as I know, the secondary air injection system only operates for the first 60 or 90 seconds of a cold start. It pumps air into the exhaust flow to help the catalytic converter convert

Hello, I'm troubleshooting a 1995 Rialta with ACU engine for a friend who just bought it.? There were monkeys in the engine bay: loose wires, disconnected vacuum hoses, SAI check valve cut out,