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Re: Spark Plug Wires - VR6
jm-@... wrote:
original article: Does anyone have: (a) an explanation for the pricing on spark plugJoel, Try Mark at Adirondack Motors(sp?). His e mail is mark@... I just bought a catalytic converter for my '93 EV MV for less than half of what VW wanted. I previously bought plug wires for the 5 cylinder from him also. If I remember right, they were $59 (original Bosch). Rod in west Texas |
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Spark Plug Wires - VR6
Does anyone have: (a) an explanation for the pricing on spark plug
wires for the VR6, or (b) a lead on a supplier of quality parts who didn't get the memo about price gouging? I figure this engine should be in at least several hundred thousand vehicles worldwide now. There's got to be a better source than what my mechanic has turned up so far. Joel Funk 97 EVC (30k miles) |
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Re: EV Exhaust Knock
Andrew,
I had an exhaust rattle from under the passenger seat of my 93 MV. I discovered that the heat shield between exhaust system and floor pan had come loose. I reattached it with a drill and pop riveter. It was in an awkward location and I was very glad I had gotten the kind of pop riveter that works straight ahead as well as 90 degrees. Good luck finding your rattle source, John Coleman 93 EVWK Boulder, CO |
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Re: 2000 EV - Chrome ring?
Bill Segesser
apparently he has quite a nice porta-potty...
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;-) -----Original Message-----
From: Larry Schellhase [mailto:schellhase@...] Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 1:57 PM To: ev_update@... Subject: [ev_update] 2000 EV - Chrome ring? Where was that chrome ring? --- LTVess@... wrote: Listees: |
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Re: ev_update digest
Two tennis balls (we used green ones), one in each front corner of the roof
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when closed. That's what worked for us. No more rattles from the pop top. Jim 95 EVC S. Arizona In a message dated 11/16/1999 3:39:52 AM Mountain Standard Time,
ev_update@... writes: << n a message dated 11/14/99 11:57:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, kgkirkley@... writes: > When traveling on rough roads (paved or otherwise) my '97 Eurovan > Pop-Top makes a lot of noise as if it wasn't locked down. I'm always > very careful about how the pop-top fabric is folded and that the > pop-top is latched. I think some of the noise may be coming from the > bed-board rattling overhead. > Has anyone else experienced this and how did you treat it??? > Kent Kirkley > '97 EVC >> |
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Re: Cruise control 93' EV GL
Tim,
There must be something that can be done. Mine continues to be rock solid in holding speed. In a message dated 11/16/99 10:20:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, coltm@... writes: Our cruise control works, but doesn't seem to hold speed without Bob Williams 93 Weekender with 5-speed and 133,000 miles Severna Park, MD |
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Damaged Engine and Transmission
Eckhard Rolz
Sklashley@... wrote:
I just had my EV in for the auto tranny service 2 weeks ago. Now suddenly the transmission is slipping. I'm afraid to drive it and cause more damage, and afraid to take it back to the garage as they may cover up any damage they caused. Steve, do you know what they mean by service? Did they just change the fluid or was it rebuilt? If they simply changed the fluid (and possibly the filter?) then I would follow the manual and check the fluid. If it's low, add some and hope that nothing is damaged. There are two procedures for changing the fluid. 1. the cheap one: Drop pan, drain fluid, possibly replace filter, replace pan and gasket, refill. 2. the more expensive one ($80 and up): Here they flush the system, including the torque converter. They suck out the old fluid through the filler and dipstick hole. Both procedures are noninvasive and, aside from not adding enough fluid, nothing really can be damaged. On mine I took the valve body off and put it back on without any problems, and I did not know what I was doing. So I doubt that they did any damage, unless the tranny was disassembled. The Bentley manual mentions that "when cold, the ATF should extend up to the 20C (68F) marking," which is a mark on the dipstick below the Min marking. "ATF must be up to normal operating temperature of approx. 60C (140F)." Make sure the engine is running when performing this check. Not enough ATF is the #1 cause of transmission failure (according to my mechanic). My German manual for my Jetta mentions slipping as a sign of low fluid. For service bulletins check: As I have mentioned before these transmissions are known to have problems, requiring rebuilding prematurely. Supposedly there are problems with the valve body. Most transmissions shops will offer to rebuilt them for you but they are not equipped to do so. There are special tools needed and most of the guys I talked to did not even know that it did not have any bands like the traditional transmissions. Hence I decided to buy a used unit. There are plenty of used and rebuilt transmissions available, provided yours is a CEU or CKA. But I am sure adding fluid will solve your problem. If, by any chance, you need a transmission I can give you a long list of places that have them in stock. Good luck Eckhard |
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2000 EV - Chrome ring?
Larry Schellhase
Where was that chrome ring?
--- LTVess@... wrote: Listees:------------------------------------------------------------------------ In the market for computer hardware or software? ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at |
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Re: Eurovan Pop-Top more tips
Patton, Kevin
We usually don't sleep upstairs. But when we do I hate it when my
pillow falls down from up there in the night. We keep a string tied to each of the pull-down handles on the inside of the pop top and to the pillows. Fallen pillows can be reeled in with the string. |
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Eurovan Pop-Top Rattle?? - Tips
Tip 1.
I have a 93 westy also and replaced the stock foam strips with new foam door weather stripping all around on the 3 sides. This helped the bed board. I also added pipe wrap (slited black tube foam) around one support pipe when I fold them down. I also keep a small board to place over the latch hole so it does not close all of the way then take a paint stick I rounded off and poke the canvas in all the way around from the outside. With the latch propped up the top can be raised a little from the outside as needed. Then remove the board and pull it down. Depending on the road surface and temp the top does make some noise just being a pop top. I do get a noise just from the latch at times. Tip 2. I use if we are not sleeping upstairs but use it for storage while parked. I pull the bed board flip it over and place it to the front of the pop top. You can then place coolers and large items in the high end and are able to access the back of the bed for your luggage etc. This also still leaves the center open for using the table and standing up. Tip 3. I keep 2 velcro bands in the top to wrap around the upright hinges to keep them locked. The kids have a tendence to grab this bar and pull on it when climbing. This helps so the heavy top does not fall on them. The winnes have struts to keep them up so it is not needed. Tip 4. Go to the drive-in and let the kids watch from the top they love it. Not a bad date spot also. Just park in the back. Beverages in the cooler! Let us know if you have any additional tips to help out. Yegs |
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Re: Eurovan Pop-Top Rattle??
James H. McCarthy
Can you tell us how? I've looked and found it all to be very tight
quarters, and could not figure out what to turn to tighten. My rattle is mostly on the passenger side hook. Jim McCarthy At 12:51 PM 11/16/1999 -0800, skammerer@... wrote: I solved the rattling on my (& EVC by tightening up the two hooks thatJim McCarthy ex '87 Westfalia '95 EuroVanCamper Somerville, MA, USA |
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Re: Eurovan Pop-Top Rattle??
charles bragg <cgbrag-@...> wrote:
original article: At 08:54 PM 11/14/1999 -0800, Kent wrote:a lot by leaving the cushions *and* a modest-sized down comforter inWhen traveling on rough roads (paved or otherwise) my '97 EurovanI'm still de-rattling my 99 EVC. I *think* I lowered the roof noise the upper bunk while the top is down. I wouldn't want to leave too much up there and do damage to the top, but this seemed like a reasonable step. I solved the rattling on my (& EVC by tightening up the two hooks that engage when you pull the top down. It worked wonders. stevek 97 EVC - still can't get email delivery of the ev-update. have to go to the site. -- Chuck 99 EVC |
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Re: Damaged Engine
Eckhard Rolz
Where can I go if I decide to do it myself?Sorry to hear about your problems. Mine has the exact same mileage. I guess next oil change I will remove the oil pan and check for any particles. While searching for a transmission I came across the following sites. I don't know if they actually carry the EV engine. If you are looking for a used one try I know John's Westside Auto Parts in Oregon just got a wrecked 93 EV. I bought the transmission-supposedly 49 000miles. 1-800-386-1399 Also Lakeview Auto Parts in Charlotte NC just got one today (they called me and tried to sell me the transmission) 1-800-336-7595 I also saw a 93EV for sale on the following web site. I think he wanted $3000 (he is in Texas). click in the bottom scroll bar on Auto Discussion, then type in "Eurovan" and mark the box "messages containing . . . " I have a long list of junk yards that sell over the internet. If you need some addresses, send me an email privately and I'll send you the list. I did hours of research in an attempt to find the right transmission. I found a number of them, but mine has a really obscure code and it was difficult to find one. But there used to be an engine with those transmissions and they are all the same. According to the Bentley manual it seems to be a pretty straight forward job to remove (drop) the engine. I will put my new tranny in next week and I will let you know if there are any difficulties. Good luck Eckhard |
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Re: Damaged Engine
Chris Noeske
Since you took such good care of you engine you probably still have a strong
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upper end of the engine, and the engine is worth keeping. How bad is the crank scored? Depending on the answer to this, you could probably get oversized bearings for the crank, and have it turned to accept oversize bearings. These parts should be available from VW, although expect long lead times. Or you could buy the used crank, from the person on this list that overheated his engine. They are parting out the old block, and I'm waiting for a price on the exhaust manifold. Correct me if I'm wrong but the crank should still be fine in an overheated engine. Personally I'd probably go with the used crank. In addition, you may get buy with "just" pulling the transmission. Leave the engine in the car, and remove the crank from the bottom. Remember to always store the crank in a vertical position, never horizontal, as it may get excessive runout. I have no idea how the crank will have to be packaged to ship without damage. Hope that helps -----Original Message-----
From: shrum@... [mailto:shrum@...] Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 8:56 AM To: ev_update@... Subject: [ev_update] Damaged Engine Hello to all, Please be patient with me since what I'm about to tell you all may happen to you one day (hopefully not) and maybe someone will be able to help me with some information. I've had my '93 EVGL for about three years purchasing it with about 39K on the odometer from a dealer in Tacoma, WA. As a machinist, I understand about machinery and maintenance. I therefore change oil and filter (VW filters only) every 2500-3000 miles. The engine was never "redlined" and usually run between 3000 and 4000 rpm. It was also never overheated and the coolant was changed every year (spring tune up) since I've had it. And finally, I have never ran the engine out of oil, in fact I check it often and make sure that it is between the two witness marks on the dipstick. About a year ago, I began hearing a noise from the engine. My dealer here in Washington State said that the timing belt was rubbing against the upper belt guard. They disassembled it and trimmed the guard back and put it back together. Noise went away...for a while. About two weeks later the noise re-appeared. I began to watch it thinking, as the dealer told me, that the noise was attributable to the timing belt guard. As a fanatic about maintenance and properly running machinery, I have also installed a VDO 0-100 psi oil-pressure gauge. While going to work, the idiot light came on and the pressure dropped to 20 psi at 3K rpm. I pulled over immediately, looked for massive oil leaks, and checked the level which was fine. After waiting about ten minutes I started the engine again and the light was out and the pressure up. I drove the rest of the way to work (about a mile) and parked the van. Since I had this problem I had the van towed to the local dealer. The "technician" told said, "If it were mine, I'd just run it. The belt is just rubbing." I insisted that the guard be replaced because it wasn't proper to have the belt rubbing. The technician then did some checking and determined that the oil pump needed to be replaced ($350.00). Total bill would be about $500.00. I thought this to be strange since the van only has 79,000 miles on it and since it said,"If it were mine, I'd just run it. The belt is just rubbing." As a part of disassembling the engine to access the oil pump the oil pan must be taken off. The mechanic/technician then discovered that the oil pick-up pipe was clogged with debris; what he said was burned oil and carbon. I called foul saying that I'd changed the oil every 200-3000 miles using Castrol GTX 20w-50w (summer) and 10w-40w (winter) with VW oil filters on every change. I did see the oil pick up and there was debris in it, however, I think it was from a defect in the engine. They then told me that the previous owner (50,000 miles ago!) probably abused the engine, burned the oil, and used non-detergent type oil. I don't think that non-detergent oil is even available anymore except in very specialized applications. Anyway, the connecting rod caps were removed and the bearing shells are scored, crankshaft is damaged and there are metal particles in the oil pan; complete long block needed at a cost of $4350.00. I called VW of NA and spoke with Jennifer Gardner who told me that she'd "look into it." The service writer that I'd been dealing with mentioned that Jennifer called but said that, unless a district representative stopped by, there was nothing that they'd do. I have, like Richard Golen with the engine fire/fuel leak, owned VW products before with no complaints. They are "stone axe" reliable which was my reason for buying a EV. I will continue to pursue relief from VW of NA, however, I'm not holding my breath. As for a long block, ATK does not stock them anymore saying that the returned cores were not "serviceable". Where can I go if I decide to do it myself? Are the Audi AAF and ACU engines a direct swap? Anyone else had such a problem? Any remedies from VW out there (recalls, service bulletins) Thank you all for listening to my rambling and being patient. Sincerely, Doug Shrum Washington State ------------------------------------------------------------------------ In the market for computer hardware or software? Compare prices on more that 100,000 products at CNET.com. Get all the latest news, reviews and prices! -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault -- |
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