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Re: Bab Tasting water
Rusty
开云体育Mine (95 EVC) had a foul taste from day one...a plastic/chemical-like taste. I tried a variety of remedies: Bleach, vinegar, baking soda, hot soapy water, and likely several other things I've forgotten. I called Winnebago and followed their recommendations too. I'd soak these concoctions for days, driving around making sure the liquid splashes hit every nook and cranny. Some times the taste would disappear for a short time...but it always came back. I couldn't drink it. The warranty was still valid so, Winnebago reluctantly agreed to put in a new tank and hoses. The water was slightly better....but only for a short time. By then, the warranty expired and Winnebago wanted nothing to do with me. At any rate, I simply gave up using the "fresh water" tank for potable water and started carrying that in separate 1 gallon glass jugs. I do use the water in the "fresh water" tank for washing dishes and taking impromptu showers in the back. Sorry that I have nothing positive to add here other than my experiences. Best of luck. To: ev_update@... From: ev_update@... Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2015 16:27:35 -0700 Subject: [ev_update] Bab Tasting water ? I flushed 3 times and still bad?? |
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Re: Bench Bleed Master Cylinder?
SDF ( aka ;jim lahey' - Scott )
开云体育If the MC is producing pressure ..then mostly likely it's bench bleed..or past the need for bench bleeding. bench bleeding is done to get brake fluid into an air-filled MC right out of the box, so it can pump brake fluid. pressure bleeding normally would take care of that - like bypasses the need for bench bleeding. Seems like more bleeding ( and watching for air bubbles during that process? ) is in order. Is there a bit of free play at the top of the brake pedal travel ? important that the pedal and pushrod not be holding MC pistons off of fully seated. if they gave it back to you like that, seems they didn't finish the job really. On 7/8/2015 1:12 PM,
rickardsmith@... [ev_update] wrote:
? |
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The Mysterious KL15A
As you may be aware, I've been having electrical gremlins in my 2000 EVC in the past week, including:
1. Van starts, but when engine is running, dashboard controls (fan, AC, etc.) are dead 2. House battery relay doesn't close when engine running 3. Power windows stuck open, immobile. I've found some solutions: 1. Replaced my ignition switch (twice!) and also replaced relay #4 (labeled "18") and this seems to have fixed the dead dash controls. 3. Replaced fuse #14 (which was documented incorrectly as not supplying the Power Windows, but apparently does, at least in my 2000 EVC) Yet I'm still stuck on issue 2: 2. house battery relay doesn't close when engine running Further diagnosis suggests my entire "KL15a" connector is dead. What is the KL15A? Here's how it looks in my van: (see 2 columns of Green connectors) The best website I've found so far is in German: Google Translate does a reasonable job: From this, I deduce that the "KL15A" circuit is the "hedged" (which is probably a mistranslation of "fused") version of the KL15 circuit, which is live when the ignition is on. So, where is the fuse? I've seen at least one claim that it's via fuse #14: But I replaced #14 and although my power windows started working, KL15A is still out. Any ideas? p.s. I totally dig how the Brits call it the "leisure battery" instead of "house battery" :-) |
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Bench Bleed Master Cylinder?
97 EVC. ?I just had to have a brake specialist replace my entire brake system - calipers, master cylinder, hoses. ?Now the brake pedal is soft and low. ?It is consistently low, meaning that is always goes to the same spot, does not fluctuate. ?The lines were flushed with brake cleaner, then refilled with new DOT4 and pressure bled. ?I'm wondering if it is possible that the master cylinder needs bench bleeding. ?Any experience with this kind of problem? |
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Re: Power Windows stuck down - any way to raise them?
ARGH! Unbelievable!!
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Power Windows in my 2000 Eurovan Camper are controlled by Fuse #14. There appears to be an error in the user manual, which says "Fuse 14: Backup Lights, Cruise Control, Power Roof". I'm not a complete idiot, and had already checked all the fuses, but apparently missed seeing the tiny break in fuse #14 in poor light. Also, the cruise control worked fine. In conjunction with the documentation error these facts led me seriously astray. I'm still having trouble with the KL15a circuit but that seems to be independent of the power window issue. On Jul 8, 2015, at 1:45 PM, Michael Diehr md03@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote: |
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Re: Power Windows stuck down - any way to raise them?
More info: I pulled the door panel and visually inspected all the harness wires in both doors. Everything looks normal. I tested +12V and Ground continuity in both doors. Everything seems normal.
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I have other other symptom (the Trigger wire which goes to the house battery relay) is not turning on. There's an article on GoWesty which suggests that this trigger wire is easy to disconnect by accident if you are looking at the relay/fuse box ( see ) so I went ahead and dropped the fusebox and made sure the wire was connected. It was. Next, I started the van running, and verified that the KL15 circuit that it's connected to is dead - I believe that when the van is running it's supposed to be at +12V. You can see the KL15 set of connectors here — it's the Green colored ones. Note that most of the wires here are blue, which is the traditional color for "+12V when engine is running". I believe the input to the KL circuit comes from the Alternator (at least on my old Vanagon that was how it worked). Now I'm back to being suspicious : what if the KL circuit being dead is affecting the power window control module in addition to my house battery relay? I've been reviewing online circuit diagrams but am not seeing clearly how the KL15 circuit is powered. One would expect there would be a relay and/or some fuses involved? On Jul 8, 2015, at 11:27 AM, 'Robert R. Williams, III' Sea2river@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote: |
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Demons in door auto lock system
A couple trips ago my van started locking all the doors every time the passenger door is closed. I have been locked out a couple times but fortunately I have a hid-a-key ? This last trip, it became more ornery and started immediately relocking all the doors when I unlocked the passenger door either with the key or the knob. A couple times it started locking and unlocking, back and forth, all the doors until I opened or closed a door.? Any ideas?? could this be a computer problem?? How do I access the door innards?? Need tools?
Wiring in Bentley? Bob 98 EVC |
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Re: Power Windows stuck down - any way to raise them?
In response to question #1, the answer is yes: the brown ground wire. If it is faulty, nothing functions in the wire bundle. The terminus is on a bolt welded to the frame under the driver's side dashboard. When my ground wire broke, I purchased a 36-inch piece of 12 gauge stranded wire at Home Depot, spliced it to the farthest location in the driver's door and put the other end onto the bolt.
Bob W |
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Re: Power Windows stuck down - any way to raise them?
Update: we used the old fashioned way of fixing the problem (duct-tape) and made the 1000 mile drive home. Actually, it wasn't duct tape, but rather blue painters tape and Reflectix - fortunately the windows were only 6 inches down so the gap wasn't that hard to keep sealed, but ugh.
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Now I'm home, and want to tackle the issue. So far the advice has been: 1. Broken wiring in door harness. In fact I've looked at the wires, and it looks like they've already been repaired once. However, no manner of wiggling the wires or opening/closing either door will get any results. Also I have a question: is it possible for BOTH windows and the power mirrors to go out from a single broken wire? Reading prior messages it sounds like that's more likely due to an upstream failure, and that a broken wire would only affect a single door/window. 2. Fuse/relays: is there any relay or fuse that deals with the power windows? Here's a picture of my relay panel: The relay labeled "53", top row, third from the left has what looks like an auto-reset circuit breaker above it (the green metal can). The owners manual mentions an auto-reset breaker for power windows. Could that be it? 3. Power Window Module : is this a separate device? Where is it physically located? 4. Documentation: Obviously, I have no Bentley and the few things I can find online are not very helpful. I'm willing to purchase a Bentley if it has good info - can anyone check to see if the Bentley has a good description of ALL the relays & fuses in a 2000 eurovan camper, and says something specific about power windows? Thanks! On Jul 6, 2015, at 1:44 PM, md03@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote: |
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Water in folds of pop-up
I have a peculiar problem with my 97 Eurovan. When it rains, water accumulates in the folds of the popup fabric on the driver's side (above the sink). The roof appears to come all the way down to make a good seal between the pop-up and the top of the van, and the water only accumulates in the fold itself. I don't see water until I make a sharp turn and it pours out.? Any ideas? I want to fix this problem so I can sell the van. If anyone on the Front Range of Colorado is looking for a Eurovan, email me here.? |
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Re: 1999 EVC Transmission Leak
Our transmission has leaked from two places:
1. Torque convertor seal - $ouch$ 2.? Weld around the drain hole of the transmission pan.? Replaced transmission pan. Because of the way the belly pan directs air currents under the engine, it can be hard to pinpoint where a leak is coming from.? Best way seems to be to take off the belly pan, clean everything that has residue on it, and run it until you see where the leak is. DanD 2000 MV "JAVWOK2" Peoria, IL |
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Re: MAP Sensor
O2 sensor and ECM take a few minutes to install.? Not sure about the secondary air issue.? The main challenge will be finding an ECM since I 'think' those are unique to the 95s and the transmission (manual/auto) installed.
If you search the previous threads there are some good conversations on this topic. Bernie 95 EVC |
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Awning Alternative
Anyone have any experience with the ShelterLogic picnic table canopy? I'm particularly interested in how well it would do in moderate to windy conditions like at the beach. They have another model that could be tilted into the wind, but it has only one screw clamp, and more parts appear to be plastic. I know you have to fold either model down in moderate rain, to avoid the rain weight pooling and bending parts.. Here's a video: ?
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Re: 1999 EVC Transmission Leak
Seems unlikely that multiple similar repairs have failed. ?There's enough play in the gasket that I'd be surprised if the pan or transmission was that badly warped.
Are you sure it is leaking from the main gasket around the top of the pan? ?Could it be leaking from the drain at the bottom of the pan or from the o-ring around the multi-function switch (on the rear side of the transmission)? |
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