开云体育

In a message dated 6/26/2008 11:57:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
1terryobrien@... writes:

Hi Folks,

I have a 02' EVC with 57,000 on it. I'm the original owner.

Recently had the EPC light come on and off. Intermittment. No error codes
reported when
it illuminated. Periodically happens when driving semi-distant. Short trips
it hasn't come
on.

Then had the CEL come on with a error code of PO172. I cleared the code. It
came back
later that afternoon on a drive. I cleared it again and it hasn't come back
yet.

Prior to this I got an error code of PO118 some time ago. I cleared that and
it hasn't come
back to haunt since.

I searched the archives and found some info but still feel stumped.

Any ideas, suggestions what to chase is greatly appreciated. Especially as
we are in the
season to get on the road. I prefer to deal with this myself rather than
shell out the dealer
bucks.

Thanks




****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. ()

--- On Tue, 6/24/08, Kris Seago <KSeago@...> wrote:

From: Kris Seago <KSeago@...>
Subject: [ev_update] Norcold replacement for EVC?
To: ev_update@...
Date: Tuesday, June 24, 2008, 4:44 PM






Hi all,

I've fought my share of battles with the Norcold in my '97 EVC. It
works fine on shore power, fine (although for a very short period of
time if not charging) on DC, terribly sporadically on propane. Will
it light and stay lit on a given day? Will it cool if lit? The
answers seem to lie in some odd interplay between temperature,
humidity, wind speed, and how much I want the darn thing to light.
Success is inversely related to the last variable.

I've cleaned, burped, cleaned, blown out, lathered, rinsed, and
repeated.

I've essentially given up on the device as being more trouble than
it's worth. I've just finished a 8 day road trip through the South
using a cooler + ice (adding a fresh bag of ice daily) as I could
never rely on the Norcold.

Has anyone dropped in a replacement fridge? I've taken a look at some
of the Waeco models and they seem promising.

Kris


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 6/26/2008 8:16:03 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
alaufenberg@... writes:

Dear List,

There seems to a transmission problem developing in our 1999 EVC.
First a bit of service history:
We currently drive about 9000 miles/year in the EVC, total miles:
91000. It is off the road during winter months. Two years ago, at
75000 miles after 4 months off it developed a leak in the
transmission seal. It was serviced (seals and fluid) and was dry
since. For the last 40,000 miles there was only the occasional (once
every other month) `clunc' between 2nd and 3rd, otherwise shifting
was smooth and the shift points seemed normal. One year ago I had
replaced the battery and did the throttle adjustment.

This May, after hibernating 5 months I started to notice that the
shift points moved to higher rpm and sometimes there was a time lag
shifting (keeping speed and rpm steady at 3500 rpm it would not shift
for many seconds) or 2nd to 3rd would not shift, even if the foot is
off the accelerator and the van coasts form 40 mph down to 25 mph
where it would finally shift. Shifting is smooth, but at 4000 rpm
instead of the customary 2500. Most of the time this behavior starts
right away – sometimes after many miles.

There are no error codes and the transmission connector was re-
seated. I was not able yet to get to the dip stick for the
transmission oil (how?) – but assume level is correct since serviced
2 years ago.
Are there other diagnostics I can perform?
Can I continue to drive this summer ?
How bad is this (I saw many posts here about transmission failures,
but not quite these symptoms)all the way to replacement.bu

Thanks for any advice,
Wolfgan




****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. ()

-----Original Message-----
From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of Stuart MacMillan
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 7:46 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: RE: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure



Sounds like you did a nice job David! Most folks on the list probably have
no idea what we are talking about!

Stuart

Seattle

P.S.: Are you going to the Greenwood Car Show Saturday? It will be a great
day to see some great cars!
<> dcarshow.com/

_____

From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
[mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On
Behalf
Of David Ewing
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 12:50 PM
To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: RE: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure

My wife drives the van probably 10 to 20 miles a day and we live in the NW
so it's very cool here. I don't believe I will need to do much more to it
in a long time as it doesn't smoke and the crank wasn't scored at all. The
little bit of aluminum that was stuck on the crank I carefully cleaned off
using a long strip of 320 grit sand paper. The journals were baby smooth
upon reassembly.

I did the mains by sliding the top half out with a combination of pushing
slightly on the side without the notch with a hard plastic screw driver and
rotating the crank. Apparently there is a tool to push the top caps out by
installing in into the oiling hole but I didn't use that. Once the bearing
half was sticking out the other side slightly I could grab a hold of it with
either a mini pry bar or a brake adjust tool on the notch. The 4th, 5th,
and 6th bearings came out easy as they were the really bad ones. I only had
to crank the motor around. I actually made a tool from wood (oak) to
install the bearings as I didn't want to scrape on anything with metal. I
also made sure to wipe away any aluminum dust left behind after the shell
was pushed into it's spot. The tough part was getting to the cap bolts on
number six as I had to actually chisel away some of the aluminum on the rear
main cover (the aluminum plat that holds the rear main) being careful not to
have the little pieces of aluminum fly into the motor somewhere.
Apparently, these motors were meant to be rebuilt outside of the vehicle
with the rear main cover off (go figure) and there was no clearance for a
socket to fit on the head of the cap bolts. There was still more than
enough area on the rear main cover for the oil pan gasket to seal. I have a
diesel 4 cylinder on my engine stand now and they have the same issue.
Other than that, it's easy from there (although there are some stingy oil
pan bolts and you have to swing one of the power steering hoses out of the
way which I did without leaking any P/S fluid). I did have to clean the
pick up tube as there were some small bearing flakes in it which I'm sure
was causing reduced pressure as well.

As far as the rod bolts were concerned, I did reuse them. I know they were
stretch bolts but I didn't have a choice at the time as the van had to be
back up and running ASAP. I have reused stretch bolts in the past but I
don't reuse them twice and only on my own stuff. BUT, when possible, I buy
new bolts (head and rod) and always when I work on someone else's vehicle.

All in all it was a pretty straight forward job. I would have no problem
recommending other people with the same problem to do the same. I will tell
you all one HUGE tip, though. THE FLYWHEEL HAS NOTCHES IN IT!! You don't
have to pull the transmission to get to the two hidden bolts behind the
flywheel (as the flywheel is some what bowl shaped). I didn't pull the
trans but I was ready to until a friend reminded me that the flywheel should
have notches. I can't tell you how grateful I was that I called this
particular friend and I wasn't even asking about the bolts! I'm just glad
that it worked out the way it did. I only paid $1600 for the van and it's
one of the rare standard vans which have no power anything along with a
manual transmission. I much prefer that as I have 4 cars and don't need to
be constantly fixing on the EV. Right now I am focusing on my 1980 2 door
diesel Dasher with the Brittax ragtop. It's a fun/cute little car with
great potential but I got it pretty beat on. Luckily the motor had great
compression so I didn't have to go down that road, only injectors, glow
plugs, and a lot of adjusting. I'm finding that working on Dashers is
actually easier than working on Rabbits.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
[mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On
Behalf
Of Stuart MacMillan
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 11:07 AM
To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
'rabbit16v_77'
Subject: RE: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure

Yes, that is a big job! I've done rod bearings and rings that way in the
past. Congratulations for even attempting it, you have bought yourself some
time. How did you do the mains? You must have been able to slide the block
half of the bearing shell in with the crank in there. How did the journals
look? Was there much scoring? Also, did you check if the rod bolts are
reusable, and not the stretch type (I don't know this engine)?

You might want to start a savings program for the ultimate rebuild that is
probably about 50k down the road. That's about all you can expect from a
bearing replacement on a used crank, depending on the condition of the crank
journals. Use a high viscosity oil too, maybe 20w-50. If the pressure
starts to drop again, even try straight 40wt. oil.

Again, congratulations, and good luck!

Stuart, BTDT

_____

From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
[mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On
Behalf
Of rabbit16v_77
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 2:57 PM
To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure

I recently asked about a low oil pressure problem with my 93 EV. It
would start and the lifters would clack until they were pumped up,
then after about 15 minutes of driving (sometimes less if it were
warm out) it would loose oil pressure and the warning light and
beeper would start. Once you stopped driving it and it cooled off,
the cycle would start all over again.

I had decided that it couldn't be a plugged oil pump pick up tube as
it would have less pressure with the oil cold and more as the oil
warmed up. I didn't suspect the sensors as it truly had low oil
pressure if the lifters would loose their prime. I didn't suspect
the pump as it would have issues even when the oil was colder.

What I did was pulled the oil pan and replaced the mains and rod
bearings. It wasn't the funnest job in the world but I now have
constant oil pressure and no warning lights or beepers. It looked as
though the previous owner had overheated the motor and one of the
oiler bearings had actually come apart blocking the oil hole.

I also did not use "Eurovan" main bearings as they want to charge you
around $50 per bearing. That would be $300 for just the main
bearings. I found that the part numbers were the same for the older
Audi 5 cylinder motors and the whole set cost me about $75.

Anyway, I am just really glad and a little proud that I was able to
fix our little van. My wife is really glad as she can drive farther
than 5 miles at a time before the warning buzzer and light goes off.

Dave



E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10110e
. <.
<> com/spyware-doctor/>
com/spyware-doctor/
<. <.
<> com/en/spyware-doctor/>
com/en/spyware-doctor/>

E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10110e
. <.
<> com/en/spyware-doctor/>
com/en/spyware-doctor/









E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10110e

<>





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10120e

In a message dated 6/26/2008 7:49:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
tonybad28@... writes:

--- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) ,
"Bob Sutterfield" <bob@...> wrote:

I occasionally see VR6 EVs for sale, listing "tow package" among the
features and options. Was this a factory option package? What was
included? How can I distinguish a tow-package vehicle from one with
just a hitch receiver that was added later (like mine was)? Thanks
for the info!
--
Bob Sutterfield
93 Weekender
Saratoga CA

Not positive, but I am guessing it is just the hitch and wiring. The only
options available for
my model year were heated seats and a sunroof. The brochure did not list a
tow package.





****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. ()

-----Original Message-----
From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
[mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On
Behalf
Of Stuart MacMillan
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 11:07 AM
To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com;
'rabbit16v_77'
Subject: RE: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure

Yes, that is a big job! I've done rod bearings and rings that way in the
past. Congratulations for even attempting it, you have bought yourself some
time. How did you do the mains? You must have been able to slide the block
half of the bearing shell in with the crank in there. How did the journals
look? Was there much scoring? Also, did you check if the rod bolts are
reusable, and not the stretch type (I don't know this engine)?

You might want to start a savings program for the ultimate rebuild that is
probably about 50k down the road. That's about all you can expect from a
bearing replacement on a used crank, depending on the condition of the crank
journals. Use a high viscosity oil too, maybe 20w-50. If the pressure
starts to drop again, even try straight 40wt. oil.

Again, congratulations, and good luck!

Stuart, BTDT

_____

From: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
[mailto:ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com] On
Behalf
Of rabbit16v_77
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 2:57 PM
To: ev_update@yahoogrou <mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com> ps.com
Subject: [ev_update] Low Oil Pressure

I recently asked about a low oil pressure problem with my 93 EV. It
would start and the lifters would clack until they were pumped up,
then after about 15 minutes of driving (sometimes less if it were
warm out) it would loose oil pressure and the warning light and
beeper would start. Once you stopped driving it and it cooled off,
the cycle would start all over again.

I had decided that it couldn't be a plugged oil pump pick up tube as
it would have less pressure with the oil cold and more as the oil
warmed up. I didn't suspect the sensors as it truly had low oil
pressure if the lifters would loose their prime. I didn't suspect
the pump as it would have issues even when the oil was colder.

What I did was pulled the oil pan and replaced the mains and rod
bearings. It wasn't the funnest job in the world but I now have
constant oil pressure and no warning lights or beepers. It looked as
though the previous owner had overheated the motor and one of the
oiler bearings had actually come apart blocking the oil hole.

I also did not use "Eurovan" main bearings as they want to charge you
around $50 per bearing. That would be $300 for just the main
bearings. I found that the part numbers were the same for the older
Audi 5 cylinder motors and the whole set cost me about $75.

Anyway, I am just really glad and a little proud that I was able to
fix our little van. My wife is really glad as she can drive farther
than 5 miles at a time before the warning buzzer and light goes off.

Dave



E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10110e
. <>
com/spyware-doctor/
<. <>
com/en/spyware-doctor/>

E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10110e
. <>
com/en/spyware-doctor/

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:

A system is either overcharged or undercharged and, if your compressor
is working correctly, and your expansion valves aren't plugged, you
don't really need gauges.

(Also, your fans/blowers have to be working correctly, at both the
evaporators and condenser.)

Assuming the system was properly evacuated during the initial charge
(so air w/water vapor was removed), and all that's inside the system
is R134a and PAG oil (and hopefully the correct amount of the latter),
then all that's left is getting to the right amount of R134a.


If you are way under-charged, the compressor won't even engage.

If you are just a little under-charged, the compressor will engage but
cooling will be minimal. You can actually feel that happening by
touching the pipe between the condenser and the receiver/dryer: it
will be hot at the condenser end but will be much cooler at the R/D.
If the system is fully charged the pipe (and the R/D itself) will be
hot to the touch all the way through the R/D.

So, that's two rules of thumb on the too-low-charge issue: no
compressor if it's really low, and a big temp drop that you can feel
by hands-on the condenser outlet if it's just a little low.


After you add some, what happens if you add too much? Again, two
basic warnings. If you add way too much, the system has a high
pressure cut-out that will disable the compressor. If you add only a
little too much you will notice the compressor cycling rapidly (and
the system blowing very cold). If so, just bleed a little off.



--- In ev_update@..., "kmjones7" <kmjones7@> wrote:

Jim,
I understand having the proper amount of refrigerant in the system is
more of an issue with R134 than was the case with the old R12 stuff,
at any rate you would want to be close. With the old school systems,
you could tell at a glance whether you had the right amount, just
watch for bubbles in the sight glass. However, these are a thing of
the past, as they to have gone away with the R12 refrigerant.
The Bentley service manual would have you use a very expensive
recycling machine to remove the refrigerant from your vehicle, then
put back a specific weight to get the charge to spec. Lacking the
proper tool, how do you get the proper amount of refrigerant?
Ken in AK

--- In ev_update@..., "cvu1995" <cvu1995@> wrote:

If you don't use the system regularly, it can leak through the

seals-

-so it may be worth trying a charge. The self help kits are

getting

pretty good these days, I recommend you get one with a pressure
gauge and make sure it is low before you recharge.

Jim Black

--- In ev_update@..., "Ian Mothersill"
<imothers_2000@> wrote:

Hi,

Looking for some feedback on A/C service for my 93 EV with 160k

miles.

The compressor was replaced 4 years /30,000 miles ago; the high
pressure switch was replaced about three years ago. I bough the

van 2

summers ago, the A/C blew cold then. Last summer it was OK, but
seemed not quite as good. But then the van would not start at

all

for

most of the summer so I didn't worry about the A/C. This summer,

the

A/C blows a bit cooler than outside air, but not by much. We

have

not

had anything like *hot* weather yet this year (Canadian west

coast)

but I doubt the A/C will be up to 95+ degree weather once it

arrives.

If I put the selector on one of the 2 non-A/C settings and slide

the

temp to cold, there is no warmth in the air blowing through. Does
this indicate the foam on the air flaps is OK?

My guess is the R134 needs to be charged up. I am thinking of

just

charging up the system and calling it a day. I know this is not

the

most "responsible" approach, but I am not keen on finding a

needle

in

a haystack. Assuming I have a leak, is it likely it can be found

when

the system still works after 2 years, just not as well? How hard

is

it to do the A/C charge - is it worth getting a kit and going
self-serve? Any other suggestions?

thanks,

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

--- In ev_update@..., "kmjones7" <kmjones7@...> wrote:

Jim,
I understand having the proper amount of refrigerant in the system is
more of an issue with R134 than was the case with the old R12 stuff,
at any rate you would want to be close. With the old school systems,
you could tell at a glance whether you had the right amount, just
watch for bubbles in the sight glass. However, these are a thing of
the past, as they to have gone away with the R12 refrigerant.
The Bentley service manual would have you use a very expensive
recycling machine to remove the refrigerant from your vehicle, then
put back a specific weight to get the charge to spec. Lacking the
proper tool, how do you get the proper amount of refrigerant?
Ken in AK

--- In ev_update@..., "cvu1995" <cvu1995@> wrote:

If you don't use the system regularly, it can leak through the

seals-

-so it may be worth trying a charge. The self help kits are

getting

pretty good these days, I recommend you get one with a pressure
gauge and make sure it is low before you recharge.

Jim Black

--- In ev_update@..., "Ian Mothersill"
<imothers_2000@> wrote:

Hi,

Looking for some feedback on A/C service for my 93 EV with 160k

miles.

The compressor was replaced 4 years /30,000 miles ago; the high
pressure switch was replaced about three years ago. I bough the

van 2

summers ago, the A/C blew cold then. Last summer it was OK, but
seemed not quite as good. But then the van would not start at

all

for

most of the summer so I didn't worry about the A/C. This summer,

the

A/C blows a bit cooler than outside air, but not by much. We

have

not

had anything like *hot* weather yet this year (Canadian west

coast)

but I doubt the A/C will be up to 95+ degree weather once it

arrives.

If I put the selector on one of the 2 non-A/C settings and slide

the

temp to cold, there is no warmth in the air blowing through. Does
this indicate the foam on the air flaps is OK?

My guess is the R134 needs to be charged up. I am thinking of

just

charging up the system and calling it a day. I know this is not

the

most "responsible" approach, but I am not keen on finding a

needle

in

a haystack. Assuming I have a leak, is it likely it can be found

when

the system still works after 2 years, just not as well? How hard

is

it to do the A/C charge - is it worth getting a kit and going
self-serve? Any other suggestions?

thanks,

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

On 6/25/08, Neil McConville <neilmcc_98@...> wrote:

That is why I am looking for the entire assembly. Any suggestions?

--- On Wed, 6/25/08, Stephen Kramar <sgkramar@...> wrote:

From: Stephen Kramar <sgkramar@...>
Subject: Re: [ev_update] 3rd row seat/bed assembly.
To: ev_update@...
Date: Wednesday, June 25, 2008, 4:21 PM






You would need to add tracks to the floor at least, not sure what
else. Without the back padded area behind the rear seat it would be a
small bed. Also, the MV has the center seats mounted backwards so that
there is enough room to pull the rear bench forward. You would have to
remove the center seat(s) to open the bed.

So, I'm thinking this would be a major change.

On 6/25/08, neilmcc_98 <neilmcc_98@yahoo. com> wrote:

Thanks for the info. Being that I have the GLS, Can a get the MV and
Weekended rear seat to retro-fit?

Do you know where I can get a used 3rd row seat/bed assembly?

Thanks again,
Neil

--- In ev_update@yahoogrou ps.com, gti_matt <gti_matt@.. .> wrote:

The MV and Weekender rear seat is the same...folds out into a bed.

A

recycler would be your best bet.

The GLS seat is the same width but with more contours and does not

make into a sleeper.

The GLS seat vs. the MV/MV Weekender seats also have entirely

different mountings as well. Won't interchange.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google. com

On 6/25/08, kmjones7 <kmjones7@...> wrote:

Jim,
I understand having the proper amount of refrigerant in the system is
more of an issue with R134 than was the case with the old R12 stuff,
at any rate you would want to be close. With the old school systems,
you could tell at a glance whether you had the right amount, just
watch for bubbles in the sight glass. However, these are a thing of
the past, as they to have gone away with the R12 refrigerant.
The Bentley service manual would have you use a very expensive
recycling machine to remove the refrigerant from your vehicle, then
put back a specific weight to get the charge to spec. Lacking the
proper tool, how do you get the proper amount of refrigerant?
Ken in AK

--- In ev_update@..., "cvu1995" <cvu1995@...> wrote:

If you don't use the system regularly, it can leak through the

seals-

-so it may be worth trying a charge. The self help kits are

getting

pretty good these days, I recommend you get one with a pressure
gauge and make sure it is low before you recharge.

Jim Black

--- In ev_update@..., "Ian Mothersill"
<imothers_2000@> wrote:

Hi,

Looking for some feedback on A/C service for my 93 EV with 160k

miles.

The compressor was replaced 4 years /30,000 miles ago; the high
pressure switch was replaced about three years ago. I bough the

van 2

summers ago, the A/C blew cold then. Last summer it was OK, but
seemed not quite as good. But then the van would not start at

all

for

most of the summer so I didn't worry about the A/C. This summer,

the

A/C blows a bit cooler than outside air, but not by much. We

have

not

had anything like *hot* weather yet this year (Canadian west

coast)

but I doubt the A/C will be up to 95+ degree weather once it

arrives.

If I put the selector on one of the 2 non-A/C settings and slide

the

temp to cold, there is no warmth in the air blowing through. Does
this indicate the foam on the air flaps is OK?

My guess is the R134 needs to be charged up. I am thinking of

just

charging up the system and calling it a day. I know this is not

the

most "responsible" approach, but I am not keen on finding a

needle

in

a haystack. Assuming I have a leak, is it likely it can be found

when

the system still works after 2 years, just not as well? How hard

is

it to do the A/C charge - is it worth getting a kit and going
self-serve? Any other suggestions?

thanks,

Ian Mothersill
93 EV Weekender 5sp
Vancouver, Canada

--- On Wed, 6/25/08, Stephen Kramar <sgkramar@...> wrote:

From: Stephen Kramar <sgkramar@...>
Subject: Re: [ev_update] 3rd row seat/bed assembly.
To: ev_update@...
Date: Wednesday, June 25, 2008, 4:21 PM






You would need to add tracks to the floor at least, not sure what
else. Without the back padded area behind the rear seat it would be a
small bed. Also, the MV has the center seats mounted backwards so that
there is enough room to pull the rear bench forward. You would have to
remove the center seat(s) to open the bed.

So, I'm thinking this would be a major change.

On 6/25/08, neilmcc_98 <neilmcc_98@yahoo. com> wrote:

Thanks for the info. Being that I have the GLS, Can a get the MV and
Weekended rear seat to retro-fit?

Do you know where I can get a used 3rd row seat/bed assembly?

Thanks again,
Neil

--- In ev_update@yahoogrou ps.com, gti_matt <gti_matt@.. .> wrote:

The MV and Weekender rear seat is the same...folds out into a bed.

A

recycler would be your best bet.

The GLS seat is the same width but with more contours and does not

make into a sleeper.

The GLS seat vs. the MV/MV Weekender seats also have entirely

different mountings as well. Won't interchange.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google. com

















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 6/25/08, neilmcc_98 <neilmcc_98@...> wrote:

Thanks for the info. Being that I have the GLS, Can a get the MV and
Weekended rear seat to retro-fit?

Do you know where I can get a used 3rd row seat/bed assembly?

Thanks again,
Neil

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

The MV and Weekender rear seat is the same...folds out into a bed.

A

recycler would be your best bet.

The GLS seat is the same width but with more contours and does not

make into a sleeper.

The GLS seat vs. the MV/MV Weekender seats also have entirely

different mountings as well. Won't interchange.