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Re: OBD II/ VAG COM
Joe R
Mike.
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The various computers are on a bus where a wire runs between them all and they have different "addresses" on the bus. There may be different computers on more then one bus also. Joe R ----- Original Message -----
From: mike shea To: ev_update@... Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 10:04 AM Subject: Re: [ev_update] OBD II/ VAG COM j hi joe the diagram that ross-tech isn't exactly like mine. mine matches what the bentley has in their 2000 wiring diagram. there are two ground wires, both of which have a solid ground. then there is the wire with 12v. this one is good too. the other wire is the gray/white that goes to the radio. the question that is puzzling to me (and certainly i don't know much about how the obd works) is where does the info from the computer come from? if there are fault codes stored in the computer, wouldn't there have to be a wire coming from the computer and going to the obd II connector to send that information? >From: "Joe R" <jromas@...> >Reply-To: ev_update@... >To: <ev_update@...> >Subject: Re: [ev_update] OBD II/ VAG COM >Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 12:16:08 -0400 > >Check for 12 volts and ground on the obi connector. They are shown on the >link I gave. Also look for pins pushed out of the connector. > >Joe > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: mike shea > To: ev_update@... > Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 10:15 AM > Subject: Re: [ev_update] OBD II/ VAG COM > > > > hi all > thanks for the replies. i do have an aftermarket blaupunkt radio in my >car. > i've had it for a long time though so i was skeptical that this was >where > the problem lied. at any rate, i cut the wire as suggested on the >ross-tech > page. still no difference. no reading at all at the obd II connector. > any other suggestions? > peace > mike > > > > > > > |
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Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run
Steven,
Dumb question - is there lots of gas in the tank? I have seen "start & stall" problems cured by putting in gas even though the owner insisted "there's enough to start it" I agree with Dave about the ignition switch. You could test for power at the distributor (Camshaft posiion sensor) and at the coil to see if the ignition switch is powering the ignition system. Perhaps start the van, wait for it to stall, then check for voltage at the connectors (key still on)? But if that doesn't do it, maybe the Throttle Position Sensor is the problem? Will the van idle but dies if you step on the gas? I suppose if the fuel filter was old and badly clogged that might be part of it. If it is old and ought to be replaced anyway, maybe go ahead and do that. Ian Mothersill 93 EV Weekender Vancouver, Canada --- In ev_update@..., "Stephen Kramar" <sgkramar@...> wrote: but gets enough catch -- unlikely in my opinion)mention of a regulator also - mechanical or electric. |
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Re: 3rd row seat/bed assembly.
Carl Henderson
What year is your van?
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Is it a MV/MV Weekender or Winnebago full camper? c --- In ev_update@..., "neilmcc_98" <neilmcc_98@...> wrote:
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Re: 3rd row seat/bed assembly.
Miles Koppersmith
Sorry should have said:
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Would that be for the Eurovan MV, the Eurovan GLS, the Eurovan Weekender, or the Eurovan Camper? ----- Original Message -----
From: "neilmcc_98" <neilmcc_98@...> To: <ev_update@...> Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 1:03 PM Subject: [ev_update] 3rd row seat/bed assembly. Hi, |
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Re: 3rd row seat/bed assembly.
Miles Koppersmith
Would that be for the Eurovan MV, the Eurovan Weekender, or the Eurovan Camper?
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----- Original Message -----
From: "neilmcc_98" <neilmcc_98@...> To: <ev_update@...> Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 1:03 PM Subject: [ev_update] 3rd row seat/bed assembly. Hi, |
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Re: EVC fridge maintenance in San Jose, CA
John Stamford
03EVC,
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If you are somewhat mechanical, all you have to do is pull the fridge out and clean the soot off the burner with a brush. Why pay someone else if it is easy enough for you to do the job? John ----- Original Message -----
From: jjjgong<mailto:jjjgong@...> To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 9:15 AM Subject: [ev_update] EVC fridge maintenance in San Jose, CA I am new in San Jose, CA area. My 03 EVC is getting difficult to light up. Anyone know a good place that can remove my fridge and do the necessary cleaning. Thanks, 03 EVC |
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Re: 3-way fridge
John Stamford
Forest,
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The fridge is not the problem, I don't think. It drains the coach battery staying cool while driving and it appears that the coach battery isn't getting enough amps to maintain its level or keep up with the drain caused by the fridge. Regards, John ----- Original Message -----
From: forest flanigan<mailto:creoflan@...> To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 7:03 AM Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 3-way fridge I would check the outlet behind the fridge to see if your getting power there. Forest |
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Re: EVC Electrical Problem
John Stamford
Jack-son,
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Thanks for all of the additional information. It's Monday and back to work... I will probably remove the panel this weekend and I will let you know what I find. Regards, John ----- Original Message -----
From: jack_son_73<mailto:jackr1@...> To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:39 PM Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem John - Yes, my original Converter was a Magnetek 30A unit, & it had an internal breaker, with excess voltage drop through it. Since only 6A of the 30 was used for charging, I never got much of a charge. It is about a $10-15 item, & would only take 1 minute to replace, once you have the Magnetek out, & open. I wanted higher DC output, so found the 45A model on EBay - NIB. They were taken over by Parallax, who has similar units with their name on them. If your problem is that internal breaker, get one like the front breaker on firewall left of battery. While tracing your problem, don't overlook ALL wires & crimped lugs done by Winnebago. They did poor work, & perhaps the same guy was "Quality" inspector. I kept my original Magnetek in case I had a problem with the replacement one, but it's never malfunctioned. I should have looked harder for a better replacement for my Magnetek. I understand someone makes a Converter-Charger-Inverter [sine wave]. It would be great to have a 3-in-one, even with limited Inverter power. Let us know what you find. Regards, Jack_son =============== --In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...>, "John Stamford" <johnstamford@...> wrote: > > Jack-son, > > Thanks, exactly what I didn't want to hear! Was your original converter a Magtech or something else? You say it has an internal breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the coach battery box. I opened the access door to the converter which is accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring connections which I redid. > > Regards, John > ----- Original Message ----- > From: jack_son_73<mailto:jackr1@...> > To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...>> > Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM > Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem > > > Jas - > > I was trying to keep you from having to access the > Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the > rear power panel, & access requires removing the > large plastic panel below the closet. The converter > has an internal breaker similar/identical to the > ones near the batteries. > > I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced > mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output > into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC > 'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had > 6A for charging house bat.] > > If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all > seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic > cover to the left of luggage area, below closet. > > Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach > the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't > have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial] > access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I > will do the same. > > The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches > forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via > converter], & front relay connect. > > Regards, > > Jack-son > ======================== > ---In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update% 40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote: > > > > Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal > > diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and > > another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a > > breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer... > through > > the air vents for the heater? > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update% 40yahoogroups.com>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote: > > > > > > The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay > > > goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just > > > forward of the Converter. The converter is > > > connected to that tie point, & to > > > rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire. > > > There is another circuit breaker near the rear > > > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to > > > shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the > > > 3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front > > > firewall relay. > > > > > > BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on > > > one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also > > > a defective identical 30A breaker inside the > > > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so > > > my rear bat never got a full charge, from > > > alternator or on shore power. I drove back to > > > selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but > > > they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems]. > > > Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they > > > welcomed back 'home'. > > > > > > BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to > > > chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house > > > wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc. > > > would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle > > > ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors > > > as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed > > > while working on my van. > > > > > > Jack_son > > > '03 EVC '01 Passat > > > =============== > > > --In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update% 40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> > wrote: > > > > > > > > Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above > the > > > > battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut- > > > breaker > > > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and > fuse > > > > checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection > for > > > > distribution? > > > > > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update% 40yahoogroups.com>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote: > > > > > > > > > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the > engine > > is > > > > > running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear > > > > battery. > > > > > A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. > Usually > > > about > > > > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There > > should > > > > be 3 > > > > > wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or > nuts > > > > > holding it to the wall. > > > > > > > > > > Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close > > to > > > the > > > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it > > with > > > a > > > > > non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one. > > > > > > > > > > Duane > > > > > 05HD Rialta > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...><mailto:ev_update% 40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" > <johnstamford@> > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged > > by > > > > the > > > > > > altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an > > THEN! > > > I > > > > go on > > > > > > a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge > > cold > > > > while > > > > > > driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any > > juice > > > at > > > > the > > > > > > battery with the engine running and the alternator showed > > 14.5 > > > > VDC > > > > > > output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged > the > > > > coach > > > > > > battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have > come > > > to > > > > the > > > > > > conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the > > > > shoreline and > > > > > > the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; > 1) > > > am > > > > I > > > > > > correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do > I > > > > change > > > > > > it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's > help. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
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Re: reset brake pad warning lamp?
David Richoux
If you search back to June 10th and 11th of this year, there was a long thread on the subject. Did the wires get properly hooked up to the sensor loop that is in each pad?
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Dave Richoux 2000 EVC On Jun 22, 2008, at 11:30 PM, Dan Pastor wrote:
Just replaced the front brake pads. warning lamp still on. Looks like |
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Re: reset brake pad warning lamp?
Carl Henderson
There's no reset.
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There's one long circuit loop from the lamp circuit in the dash through all four brake pads then to ground. If there's a break anywhere, the lamp illuminates. So--it could be a bad connection on your new front pads, or worn out rear pads, or a break at the rear pad connectors, or a broken wire anywhere in the circuit. I've had trouble with the connectors breaking on my front pads. Right now I still have the original front pads (60K miles), but the sensors are jumpered at the front wheels to keep the light off. I've made up a test plug from an old rear pad. I can plug it in at any wheel. Just tie the two wires together and you'll simulate an intact wear sensor. Carl 2003 EVWK --- In ev_update@..., "Dan Pastor" <danielhpastor@...> wrote:
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Re: Need plastic trim piece- sliding window.
JL,
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When I had to buy a replacement plastic trim part for my '93 Weekender, the VW dealer had some decent prices (blasphemy, I know) but of course it was a special order. Bob W. In a message dated 6/23/2008 4:00:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jonathan@... writes: I am missing a piece of plastic trim from the side door sliding window. This is a piece that is about a foot long and has a channel that went over the edge of the window. I think it is about 3/8 inch wide.. Mine disappeared, although I had a chance to save since I knew it was kind of loose and never got around to glueing it on. DOH!!! Anyone on the list have one laying around they might want to part with? I don't think that this piece actually does anything, but I want my van to be whole again. My van is a 2001 EV MV WK. ****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. () |
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Sliding Door Curtain Track Rings and Stops - Two questions
drhovis
My 03 MV Weekender curtain fell off its track this weekend.
I discovered the aft plastic track-stop fell/was pulled out of position and the little curtain hook rings started sliding right out of aft end of the track. There are eleven hooks on the curtain. I recovered 9 little rings and one plastic track-stop. First question, how many rings are there supposed to be? I also noticed the forward end of the door curtain track was missing a track-stop. Second question, is the forward end also need a track- stop. Thanks for your help. |
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Re: 3-way fridge
What is the status of the coach battery, i.e., how old? Does it take and
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hold a charge? Bob W. In a message dated 6/23/2008 2:01:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
johnstamford@... writes: The fridge is not the problem, I don't think. It drains the coach battery staying cool while driving and it appears that the coach battery isn't getting enough amps to maintain its level or keep up with the drain caused by the fridge. ****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. () |
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Re: moving up from a 1999 Eurovan
I have a '93 and an '03.
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Advantages of '03 201 HP vs 109 HP Quieter Better climate control OBD II diagnostics plus are much better 16" wheels Similar gas mileage Recommended service intervals (eg spark plugs and air filter) is 40K vs 25K (or is it 30K?) Disc brakes on rear vs drum ABS standard (opt on 93) ESP Air bags standard Disadvantages of '03 Only available with automatic transmission I'm sure there are other differences, but that is what comes to mind. It is a pretty significant upgrade in my opinion. On 6/21/08, Dane Walther <dane_s_walther@...> wrote:
I've been considering selling my 1999 EV and getting a newer VR6 Eurovan --
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com |
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Re: OBD II/ VAG COM
j
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hi joe the diagram that ross-tech isn't exactly like mine. mine matches what the bentley has in their 2000 wiring diagram. there are two ground wires, both of which have a solid ground. then there is the wire with 12v. this one is good too. the other wire is the gray/white that goes to the radio. the question that is puzzling to me (and certainly i don't know much about how the obd works) is where does the info from the computer come from? if there are fault codes stored in the computer, wouldn't there have to be a wire coming from the computer and going to the obd II connector to send that information? From: "Joe R" <jromas@...> |
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