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--- In ev_update@..., "John Johnson" <johnnie5@...> wrote:

I was asked to look at a hanger queen that several shops have worked
on. Look under hood reveals many vacuum lines disconnected and the
decal is not helpful - is there an online hose map for this engine?

The owner states two fuel pumps replaced to correct no start
condition. But engine turns over and fires but when key is released
to the run position the engine stops?

This is a 1996 but I cannot find any OBD connector under the dash.
Can someone give me an idea where the connector is?

Is there any way to check from the VIN the actual date of the
chassis/engine? I'm thinking it may be earlier than tittle stated 1996?

Are there two fuels pumps - a primary and secondary? I see mention of
a regulator also - mechanical or electric.

I'm thinking that if the motor starts but then quits there is an
electrical problem?

Best way to obtain a manual?

Vehicle was driven to its present location after a "hard start" then
refused to run.

Help

--- In ev_update@..., "John Johnson" <johnnie5@...> wrote:

I was asked to look at a hanger queen that several shops have worked
on. Look under hood reveals many vacuum lines disconnected and the
decal is not helpful - is there an online hose map for this engine?

The owner states two fuel pumps replaced to correct no start
condition. But engine turns over and fires but when key is released
to the run position the engine stops?

This is a 1996 but I cannot find any OBD connector under the dash.
Can someone give me an idea where the connector is?

Is there any way to check from the VIN the actual date of the
chassis/engine? I'm thinking it may be earlier than tittle stated 1996?

Are there two fuels pumps - a primary and secondary? I see mention of
a regulator also - mechanical or electric.

I'm thinking that if the motor starts but then quits there is an
electrical problem?

Best way to obtain a manual?

Vehicle was driven to its present location after a "hard start" then
refused to run.

Help

--- On Fri, 6/20/08, jack_son_73 <jackr1@...> wrote:
From: jack_son_73 <jackr1@...>
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
To: ev_update@...
Date: Friday, June 20, 2008, 2:12 PM











Larry -



Most fuel pumps I've used in the past few years

have the vapor recovery system. They even draw

gas gurgling back underground if you try to over-

fill, of course. However, it was not until I was

following this list for a few years that I

realized I was possibly damaging my vehicles by

topping off the tank. While trying to FILL my

tank for accurate measurements, or max miles

before next fill-up, I sometimes overflowed gas

on my feet, ground, car... Yeah, not smart, and

sometimes our first big mistake is our last. I

may have pulled the nozzle out too far - as some

tank necks will not take high pressure fuel pumps

w/o resetting. The vapor would only need to travel

1 foot - but if I can smell it from two feet

away, the Norcold might ignite it.



I would not use propane devices while driving,

& especially while near others who are refueling

next to me. None of the pump jockeys went to

"refueling school" - & I obviously skipped that

part of my education.



Some tunnels have signs prohibiting propane tanks,

even if turned off. You are supposed to stop for

inspection, or be directed to an alternate route.

They mostly look for large reefer trucks, but it

also applies to the small "BBQ" LP tanks.



With my extra deep-cycle house battery, there is

no trouble keeping up with the [15A?] Norcold -

as inefficient as it is. I'd disable my DDL if 15A

was that critical. I run 20 to 85A with my Ham Rig

on. Winnie must have a brother-in-law or other

connection at Norcold, to have helped them unload

so many poorly designed refrigerators.



My main reason for never using ANY propane EVER,

is the difficulty, inconvenience, & expense of

refilling. After reading about the soot problems

with Norcold & furnace, + lighting & relighting,

cleaning - I am very happy. I'd take both

appliances out, & leave them out, if it wasn't

such a difficult task. My chest Norcold would

fit in place of the original unit, & I'd have a

choice of freezer or cooler, a fully adjustable

thermostat, and only 1/3 the current. + I could

leave it out when not needed.



My LARGE chest-style Norcold portable cooler-

freezer only draws 4-5A on 12V [I've never

measured AC amps], and it naturally runs a lot

less if set above -32F. It's hard to believe it

has a compressor, yet draws the same current as

my DC 6-pack or large Koolatron - both solid

state coolers, @ ~4.5A. I must use an external

power supply to run the solid state units on

117V AC, but the compressor unit just plugs

into 115V AC,



Regards,



Jack_son

============ ===

--In ev_update@yahoogrou ps.com, Larry Schellhase <schellhase@ .> wrote:

Forest do you do this in areas that do not have vapor recovery

systems on the gas pumps? I feel relatively safe refueling with the

Norcold running on propane when the gas pump has a vapor recovery

system, but when the pumps do not have vapor recovery I turn the

fridge off before filling.

* * * Warning - I am not stating this is a safe practice or

recommending that anyone else should do what I do. * * *

Larry

LA, CA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In ev_update@..., "efickel" <EFickel@...> wrote:

Can you cite a source for your "sealed for life" statement, or is that
just another internet rumor?

I can tell you, in my case, three dealers have refused to change the
ATF because according to them, VW does not recommend changing it.

-Erich

--- In ev_update@..., "Dan Cross" <dan.cross@...> wrote:

The reasons nobody will flush a VW automatic are threefold:
1) Most of the 098-01X series of transmissions are stated by VW as
being "Sealed for life". This is not true for the later EVs but VW
has a lot of trouble keeping this fact strait and the dealers are
even more clueless. The independents are no better. Anyone who
knows jack about ATF knows you should change it according to usage
conditions and the entire 098 series is harsh on fluid and the 01P in
the EV is downright brutal on ATF. Bottom line change it every 40K
of less.
1) Because you need custom fittings to connect to the tranny cooler
outlet/inlet and unless you make your own there is currently only one
place to buy readymade fittings.

2) In order to install the connections to do the flush on a VW AT you
first need to get the OEM cooler off the tranny and out of the way.
Depending on the vehicle and certainly true for the 6 cylinder EV it
is a PITA.
Most EVrs after discovering the importance of proper AT care opt to
drain the fluid, drop and clean the pan, change the filter and refill
the fluid as described in the files. If it has been a long time and
or the fluid is toast then they will button it up turn it over and
repeat the drain and fill a couple times. This will get most of the
old stuff out. Proper fill level is critical and temperature
dependent.
The fluid you want is Pentosin ATF1 Equivalent to Audi Vw G 052 162
A2 you can get it at Europarts and elsewhere.
IVAN
Therefore:
I am,
Dan


--- In ev_update@..., "efickel" <EFickel@> wrote:

Wow -- this is an incredibly frustrating process.

I've called a dozen transmission shops. No one will flush my
transmission fluid and replace the filter. "We don't work on
Volkswagens," is the standard response.

I have found one person that will actually work on the transmission.
Now I have to get the car from the dealer to this shop, a distance

of

115 miles. I suppose I need to have it towed -- could I drive it? He
says that if it needs work, he will rebuild the transmission rather
than purchasing a rebuilt unit. Is that OK? Or should I encourage

him

to use a rebuilt transmission from one of the websites on this list?

Volkswagen has offered to help. They'll give me a $1500 cash back
coupon redeemable for six months. Isn't that rich? I have to spend
$6000 for repairs, and they expect I'll want to replace it in six

months?

I'll keep plugging away. Thanks for your help throughout the

process.

BTW -- is there an agreed upon source for the the transmission fluid
that will be less expensive than the dealer network?

-Erich

On Jun 20, 2008, at 4:26 PM, vweuro00 wrote:

my check engine light is on and i'm getting no signal to the OBD II
port. i checked the wires going to it. two of them are ground wires
that both have a good ground. one has 12v going to it and that one is
fine. the other is the gray/white wire. i'm not sure where that one
goes to. the bentley manual shows that it goes to the radio. that
doesn't seem right to me. at any rate, i'm two months past my
inspection now as i've been trying to figure this out. i'd love to get
any ideas.
thanks
mike

-----Original Message-----
From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of TYA2
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:15 PM
To: ev_update@...
Cc: rialta-tech@...
Subject: [ev_update] Interference fit engine & head damage ???





Ok tech experts here is the tough $$$ question. I know that some of you
on the list have the experience of having a timing belt fail and getting
into engine problems. I am looking for information on what happened to
you and how things worked out. This question is not knocking the VW
products, because the engine was in a GM Korea produced Chevy Aveo (4
cylinder 1.6 L gas engine,) Basic scenario at about 40,000 miles on the
odometer.Friday night last he was driving at 60 mph on I-5 north of Seattle
Washington when he lost power in 5th gear, tried shifting down to 4 but
basically the engine died and he coasted to the side of the highway. I
know all this because I was following him in a rental car about 6 car
lengths back. The engine would not start, so we had the vehicle towed to
Everett Chevrolet. Saturday morning the dealer said it must be a timing
belt, I have no mechanic until Monday. It should be an easy job. We
continued back to Canada 900 miles further away. Monday morning I was
told yes it is a timing belt but we have no idea why it failed, there
should be no internal damage. $300. Monday afternoon we were told the
timing belt failed because the tensioner was broken. (one is now
ordered). Tuesday afternoon we were told the head is damaged. (16 valve
engine). The estimate is another $2000.00.... This car had no warranty
it expired at 3 years, 36,000 miles.

Here are my concerns what are the chances the rest of the engine is
TOAST? Even if we change the head and the pistons have no marks on them
what are chance the bits of valves are not going to destroy the engine once
it is put back together? I can do an oil change but are their bits of
debris that won't come out?

I know some of you have done the damaged timing belt, damaged valves and
head scenarios in VWs, what did you decide to do? What would you do?

I can buy a complete factory reman for $4000 or get engines out of wreckers
for 800 to 1400, with installation at about $500. The issues with this
car, is it my son's transportation, we live near Edmonton, Canada, and he
goes to college south of Seattle. We aren't really interested in
warranty, we are interested in reliability. Do we get the car fixed in
Washington, or bring it back to Canada and get the work done here?

Even U-haul is a hassle, they won't rent a tow dolly, they say I need an
auto trailer (ground clearance issues). They won't rent me a pick up
truck to tow a car with and they won't rent me a cube van because I am a
foreigner (so when did being a white Canadian male be such a big
deal?) I mean the last time we invaded the US was about 200 years ago...
and that was under a different king... :>)

Do we just swap the whole engine now and sleep better? My wife is the
worrier. I am the bill payer.

Seattle area listers can you recommend the name of good local independent
shop, or wrecking yards that might have GM products, and honest reliable
towing companies...

Please reply direct to tya2@... <mailto:tya2%404-fly.net>

Reg near Edmonton





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In a message dated 6/20/2008 6:35:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
schellhase@... writes:

what is a DDL?





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