I have a 1995 Eurovan. I need to replace the 12 volt circuit breaker for the furnace. Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement?
Thanks
Domokos Hadnagy
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On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 08:21 PM, Craig wrote:
Take the hub to a garage or machine shop with the new bearing and have them do the pressing out ?and ?pressing in
I think you've got the spindle and the hub confused.? The hub (where the rotor/wheel mounts) has to come out before the bearing can be removed.? The spindle is what the bearing is pressed into/out of.? Actually, with the Hub Grappler, the spindle doesn't have to come off, but it would for someone else to do the job. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 212K Miles
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Steve,?
Mikes trouble shooting plan should identify hub ?or CV. Bad hub bearing will give the up and down. Bad CV won¡¯t it would just feel rough when spinning the tire.
If you get it home and the hub off the car, which I think ?has to happen to properly install the bearing.? Take the hub to a garage or machine shop with the new bearing and have them do the pressing out ?and ?pressing in if you don¡¯t have the tools to do so.?
That¡¯s cheaper than buying a press unless you see using it for other things.
Just an idea. I have done that with hubs when I couldn¡¯t fashion a press or tools to do it.
Steve, are you not at your NM residence-? sounds like you are camping in California.? Regardless, you can lift the front (and rear) axles and check for noise.? For the front, put gear box into neutral.? Roll the wheels, pull at top and bottom.? If you see a lot of deflection from top to bottom, this could be a problem.? If you are having these noises, you should (hopefully) hear them with axles lifted.? It sounds like part of this dialog is to get you back home with the homestead where you can deal with this with less anxiety.? You could ask a mechanic to help diagnose axle noise.? As was stated, wheel bearings are press fit.? If you don't have a press, take it somewhere.? The cv axles are easier-? remove with a tap from the differential after separation from wheel.
Finally, if you are in California, do all this stuff and what others have suggested to give you confidence to road trip back to NM.? Short trips don't generate heat which will kill a compromised bearing, but a long trip will.
HTH,? Mike
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Steve, are you not at your NM residence-? sounds like you are camping in California.? Regardless, you can lift the front (and rear) axles and check for noise.? For the front, put gear box into neutral.? Roll the wheels, pull at top and bottom.? If you see a lot of deflection from top to bottom, this could be a problem.? If you are having these noises, you should (hopefully) hear them with axles lifted.? It sounds like part of this dialog is to get you back home with the homestead where you can deal with this with less anxiety.? You could ask a mechanic to help diagnose axle noise.? As was stated, wheel bearings are press fit.? If you don't have a press, take it somewhere.? The cv axles are easier-? remove with a tap from the differential after separation from wheel.
Finally, if you are in California, do all this stuff and what others have suggested to give you confidence to road trip back to NM.? Short trips don't generate heat which will kill a compromised bearing, but a long trip will.
HTH,? Mike
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Steve
IMHO the Autozone tools won't help you at all. The O'reillys hub
puller "might " do it. I have a portable hydraulic press ( 10 ton)
I usually use on AUDIs and Subarus- so if this can generate 10
tons or so try it. The bearing has been in there for 20 years- and
it is "really" stuck!
Where do you live in NM? I might know of someone who can help you
out.
Sam
02 EVC
On 9/21/2021 2:38 PM, Steve via
groups.io wrote:
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Thanks Duane and Craig.? ?I just ordered two front bearings and
maybe I will do the CV and rest at the same time.?The Front end
feels really tight so I wonder, but I am probably going to have to
do it all within 25K and all at once, I'm good for the rest of
it's life.?
That hub grappler is spendy of course.? ?I was thinking of making
use of the Autozone loaner tools.??
I see:
We also have Oreilly's in our little town:??
You think these options will allow me to do what the hub grappler
kit does??
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Thanks Duane and Craig.? ?I just ordered two front bearings and maybe I will do the CV and rest at the same time.?The Front end feels really tight so I wonder, but I am probably going to have to do it all within 25K and all at once, I'm good for the rest of it's life.?
That hub grappler is spendy of course.? ?I was thinking of making use of the Autozone loaner tools.??
I see:
We also have Oreilly's in our little town:??
You think these options will allow me to do what the hub grappler kit does??
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Re: Secondary Air Pump Hose
For an ACU engine from mid 95, in case you don¡¯t notice the signature¡.
--
David
1705.net
95 EVG(lamper)
Seattle, WA
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Looking for the hose that goes from the secondary air pump to the air cleaner. Anyone have an extra one lying around? That explains the broken fitting on my air intake boot, and I always thought there should be a hose on that end of the secondary air pump. It might be nice to have one after all these years¡..
--
David
1705.net
95 EVG(lamper)
Seattle, WA
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It is hard to believe!? I have been there.
On Mon, Sep 20, 2021, 5:37 PM Malcolm Stebbins < mwstebbins@...> wrote: Thanks everyone, I found a cross reference to the above part for my 2002 EuroVan camper to an Audi part. My mechanic was able to install it fine and most of my EVC problems have gone away.
+++++++++++++++++++++++
On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 4:44 PM, Tabitha & Mark Reed It is under the hood, above the brake booster, near the firewall, near the wiper motor... This is on a 99.
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Thanks everyone, I found a cross reference to the above part for my 2002 EuroVan camper to an Audi part. My mechanic was able to install it fine and most of my EVC problems have gone away. +++++++++++++++++++++++
On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 4:44 PM, Tabitha & Mark Reed <tmreedsix@...> wrote: It is under the hood, above the brake booster, near the firewall, near the wiper motor... This is on a 99.
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Well to do the bearings you 1/2 the work done to get to the CV joints. So it¡¯s that age old question¡¡ so close may as well. CV joints and axles aren¡¯t crazy expensive compared to some parts and seem to be available.
Did mine this summer before long road trip. Bentley manual and a few videos it¡¯s doable fairly easy.?
Good luck?
Thanks for the advice.? As I consider the sounds more, I fall on the side of the wheel bearings as a source and believe that at 175 k, it's likely that they are ready to change anyway.??
I don't have any trusted mechanics where I park the van (small town) and almost always do my own work,? so I will manage it one way or another.? ? My only real question is whether I should tackle the CV joints preventatively at the same time or wait on them.? ?And, of course if the noise continues after doing the bearings, then I must do the CV axles.
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On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 03:25 PM, Steve wrote:
My only real question is whether I should tackle the CV joints preventatively at the same time or wait on them.
I'd do all of it, probably including tie rod ends, etc. since it's all related.? The center bolt is supposed to be replaced every time it's removed (stretch bolt). so that could add up at $10 a pop. If you can find, borrow, or buy a Hub Grappler kit (and an impact wrench), it makes bearing replacement 'easy' compared to other methods like a slide hammer.? I can do both rear bearings in ~2 hours with it.? Longer on the front since the torsion bar has to be loosened and axles moved out of the way, maybe 3-4 hours total.? Both cases presume that it hasn't been mangled for some reason. ? -- Duane 05HD Rialta 212K Miles
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It is under the hood, above the brake booster, near the firewall, near the wiper motor... This is on a 99.
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Thanks for the advice.? As I consider the sounds more, I fall on the side of the wheel bearings as a source and believe that at 175 k, it's likely that they are ready to change anyway.??
I don't have any trusted mechanics where I park the van (small town) and almost always do my own work,? so I will manage it one way or another.? ? My only real question is whether I should tackle the CV joints preventatively at the same time or wait on them.? ?And, of course if the noise continues after doing the bearings, then I must do the CV axles.
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Re: Tranny clunk and hesitation on acceleration
I would first look at motor and tranny mounts. Can you read
tranny codes on a 95?? I don't know much about older EVC's. The
"click" could be a solenoid in the tranny- I just replaced a bunch
of them in my 02 EVC- I had OBD codes set which indicated several
bad solenoids.
Good luck
Sam 02 EVC
On 9/20/2021 7:53 AM, George Ya wrote:
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On road so hard to search stuff on phone so asking here. On
furthest point from home right now (of course!).
On mild? accel up hills I hear clunk or loud tick sound and a
lurch from under the van. Seems to be from tranny, pretty sure.
Happens at mid speed acceleration mostly like 50 to 70 kph.
Sometimes also on large hill climbs on the highway at 100ish. If I
accelerate hard it doesn't seem to do it. The noise almost sounds
like a loud relay click. Seems to do it for a while then stop.
Tranny temp is sub 70c on highway, 80 - 85c in town traffic.
Took it to Jeff's Old Volks home in Chester NS and the trans
level had been slightly overfull, but oil was clean. Made no
diff with the correct level
Any pointers out there?
--
George Y
95 EVC - Ottawa ON area
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Tranny clunk and hesitation on acceleration
On road so hard to search stuff on phone so asking here. On furthest point from home right now (of course!). On mild? accel up hills I hear clunk or loud tick sound and a lurch from under the van. Seems to be from tranny, pretty sure. Happens at mid speed acceleration mostly like 50 to 70 kph. Sometimes also on large hill climbs on the highway at 100ish. If I accelerate hard it doesn't seem to do it. The noise almost sounds like a loud relay click. Seems to do it for a while then stop. Tranny temp is sub 70c on highway, 80 - 85c in town traffic.
Took it to Jeff's Old Volks home in Chester NS and the trans level had been slightly overfull, but oil was clean. Made no diff with the correct level
Any pointers out there?
#tranny
--
George Y
95 EVC winnabago - Ottawa ON area
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Hi,
Could someone tell me where is the N80 EVAP purge valve located on a 1997 EVC please ? Thanks.
Yves
Canada
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Had the same finding a few years back at 120K miles. My CV boots looked fine, no holes and no grease leaks...... BUT upon taking apart the CV joint, the grease had turned to dry powder and there was extensive scoring. In my case, this affected both inner and outer joints on both sides. I did not attempt this fix at home, easier to take it to a trusted mechanic who had the necessary press to do the job.
W, Li 95 EVC
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Steve
The front bearings are sealed units- pressed into the wheel hub-
no way of checking to see if they are "lubed". Noise could be
either CV joints or bearings. Difficult to tell without the van up
on a lift. If you jack up one wheel- then there is no load on the
bearings- so noise may be/or not there. Difficult job to replace a
bearing yourself ( I've done it several times on various AUDIs and
Subarus- but impossible without the tools.
Where do you live in NM? I moved from NM to VA a few years ago.
Sam
02 EVC
On 9/19/2021 1:40 AM, Steve via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi.? I am out camping and will move and drive my EV once every
week or so.? On those ocasions,? I have started to notice a subtle
then less subtle noise/vibration when accelerating in turns.?
?First and most of all on those long arcing on-ramps you get on
California freeways.? Turn right to go left on the freeway kind of
ramps.? ? ?At first it was only in one direction.? Then I started
noticing it in the other direction of an accelerating turn. Now
sometimes going straight as well.? It's not the kind of thing
everybody would note, but? I know my vehicle.? And it's getting
stronger.
The sound/vibration is like a dry bearing, more humming like a dry
bushing or one that's not loading evenly.? ?My first thought was
CV? joints. But I've always heard that they click when going out.?
?Then it occurred to me that it could be the differential running
dry.? I've been meaning to replace it's gear oil and have a new
pump and bottle of synthetic waiting at home.? So I checked (PITA)
and it seems that the final drive does have oil and it looks clean
even. The vehicle is on a slope so it was hard to tell if it's
100% but it's far from dry.? ?I pulled the actual hex drain plug
to check and it had a small amount of filings on it's magnet.?
I also visually inspected the CV joints and they look impeccable
on the outside- no leaks no tears, clean.. This is my first front
wheel drive vehicle so I don't have much experience with CV
though.?
I suppose it could just as well be the bearings, I'll have to jack
up the vehicle when I get time and a safe spot to do that but I'm
not even sure I'd know if they are going out if they don't wobble
or whine when spinning the wheel.? ?Maybe. I should just replace
'em?.? It has 180 k highway miles.? ?I suppose that when I jack it
up, I should at least find a way to make sure the bearings are
lubed.
Anybody have a thought?? ?Is getting to the bearings complicated??
Most things are with this highly engineered German beast!? ? I'm
about to drive from Cali back to New Mexico and would like to
choose when and where I do any upcoming maintenance!
Steve
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Hi.? I am out camping and will move and drive my EV once every week or so.? On those ocasions,? I have started to notice a subtle then less subtle noise/vibration when accelerating in turns.? ?First and most of all on those long arcing on-ramps you get on California freeways.? Turn right to go left on the freeway kind of ramps.? ? ?At first it was only in one direction.? Then I started noticing it in the other direction of an accelerating turn. Now sometimes going straight as well.? It's not the kind of thing everybody would note, but? I know my vehicle.? And it's getting stronger.
The sound/vibration is like a dry bearing, more humming like a dry bushing or one that's not loading evenly.? ?My first thought was CV? joints. But I've always heard that they click when going out.? ?Then it occurred to me that it could be the differential running dry.? I've been meaning to replace it's gear oil and have a new pump and bottle of synthetic waiting at home.? So I checked (PITA) and it seems that the final drive does have oil and it looks clean even. The vehicle is on a slope so it was hard to tell if it's 100% but it's far from dry.? ?I pulled the actual hex drain plug to check and it had a small amount of filings on it's magnet.?
I also visually inspected the CV joints and they look impeccable on the outside- no leaks no tears, clean.. This is my first front wheel drive vehicle so I don't have much experience with CV though.?
I suppose it could just as well be the bearings, I'll have to jack up the vehicle when I get time and a safe spot to do that but I'm not even sure I'd know if they are going out if they don't wobble or whine when spinning the wheel.? ?Maybe. I should just replace 'em?.? It has 180 k highway miles.? ?I suppose that when I jack it up, I should at least find a way to make sure the bearings are lubed.
Anybody have a thought?? ?Is getting to the bearings complicated?? Most things are with this highly engineered German beast!? ? I'm about to drive from Cali back to New Mexico and would like to choose when and where I do any upcoming maintenance!
Steve
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Duane
Craig
David