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Re: 2003 EV MV Transmission
dave_king_ev
Get a Bentley and show them the official maintenance schedule. You
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definitely should have a Bentley regardless. Or, ask them to show you what schedule they use that says "sealed for life" (or whatever it is they are claiming it says). Dealers looking to avoid working on Eurovans is the rule, not the exception. Get used to it, and be prepared to return their lame volleys. --- In ev_update@..., "efickel" <EFickel@...> wrote:
Can you cite a source for your "sealed for life" statement, or is thatI can tell you, in my case, three dealers have refused to change the |
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Re: 2003 EV MV Transmission
dave_king_ev
Can you cite a source for your "sealed for life" statement, or is that
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just another internet rumor? (I hope that misinformation is not based on the glovebox owner's manual, which doesn't cover everything. For example, my owner's manual shows only a handful of items at the 15,000 mile service interval, while the factory service manual shows almost two dozen items. Of course dealers know this, and know to reference the complete schedule. They don't check the glovebox -- LOL. But, even if they did check the glovebox manual, it doesn't say "sealed for life" either.) The "Official Factory Service Manual" Bentley states "replace ATF" on the 40K miles schedule (page A 16) and then refers the technician to page A 63 ("ATF, replacing") which spells out the fluid change procedure for both the 098 trans (used on the inline-5) and the 01P trans (used on the VR6). --- In ev_update@..., "Dan Cross" <dan.cross@...> wrote:
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Re: OBD II/ VAG COM
Mike,
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What are you using to scan with? You might stop by an Autozone and see if they can scan it. Steve 636-337-7700 888-797-5994 - order desk On Jun 20, 2008, at 4:26 PM, vweuro00 wrote:
my check engine light is on and i'm getting no signal to the OBD II |
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OBD II/ VAG COM
my check engine light is on and i'm getting no signal to the OBD II
port. i checked the wires going to it. two of them are ground wires that both have a good ground. one has 12v going to it and that one is fine. the other is the gray/white wire. i'm not sure where that one goes to. the bentley manual shows that it goes to the radio. that doesn't seem right to me. at any rate, i'm two months past my inspection now as i've been trying to figure this out. i'd love to get any ideas. thanks mike |
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Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
jack_son_73
Larry -
Most fuel pumps I've used in the past few years have the vapor recovery system. They even draw gas gurgling back underground if you try to over- fill, of course. However, it was not until I was following this list for a few years that I realized I was possibly damaging my vehicles by topping off the tank. While trying to FILL my tank for accurate measurements, or max miles before next fill-up, I sometimes overflowed gas on my feet, ground, car... Yeah, not smart, and sometimes our first big mistake is our last. I may have pulled the nozzle out too far - as some tank necks will not take high pressure fuel pumps w/o resetting. The vapor would only need to travel 1 foot - but if I can smell it from two feet away, the Norcold might ignite it. I would not use propane devices while driving, & especially while near others who are refueling next to me. None of the pump jockeys went to "refueling school" - & I obviously skipped that part of my education. Some tunnels have signs prohibiting propane tanks, even if turned off. You are supposed to stop for inspection, or be directed to an alternate route. They mostly look for large reefer trucks, but it also applies to the small "BBQ" LP tanks. With my extra deep-cycle house battery, there is no trouble keeping up with the [15A?] Norcold - as inefficient as it is. I'd disable my DDL if 15A was that critical. I run 20 to 85A with my Ham Rig on. Winnie must have a brother-in-law or other connection at Norcold, to have helped them unload so many poorly designed refrigerators. My main reason for never using ANY propane EVER, is the difficulty, inconvenience, & expense of refilling. After reading about the soot problems with Norcold & furnace, + lighting & relighting, cleaning - I am very happy. I'd take both appliances out, & leave them out, if it wasn't such a difficult task. My chest Norcold would fit in place of the original unit, & I'd have a choice of freezer or cooler, a fully adjustable thermostat, and only 1/3 the current. + I could leave it out when not needed. My LARGE chest-style Norcold portable cooler- freezer only draws 4-5A on 12V [I've never measured AC amps], and it naturally runs a lot less if set above -32F. It's hard to believe it has a compressor, yet draws the same current as my DC 6-pack or large Koolatron - both solid state coolers, @ ~4.5A. I must use an external power supply to run the solid state units on 117V AC, but the compressor unit just plugs into 115V AC, Regards, Jack_son =============== --In ev_update@..., Larry Schellhase <schellhase@.> wrote: systems on the gas pumps? I feel relatively safe refueling with the Norcold running on propane when the gas pump has a vapor recovery system, but when the pumps do not have vapor recovery I turn the fridge off before filling. recommending that anyone else should do what I do. * * *
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Re: 2003 EV MV Transmission
Dan Cross
The reasons nobody will flush a VW automatic are threefold:
1) Most of the 098-01X series of transmissions are stated by VW as being "Sealed for life". This is not true for the later EVs but VW has a lot of trouble keeping this fact strait and the dealers are even more clueless. The independents are no better. Anyone who knows jack about ATF knows you should change it according to usage conditions and the entire 098 series is harsh on fluid and the 01P in the EV is downright brutal on ATF. Bottom line change it every 40K of less. 1) Because you need custom fittings to connect to the tranny cooler outlet/inlet and unless you make your own there is currently only one place to buy readymade fittings. 2) In order to install the connections to do the flush on a VW AT you first need to get the OEM cooler off the tranny and out of the way. Depending on the vehicle and certainly true for the 6 cylinder EV it is a PITA. Most EVrs after discovering the importance of proper AT care opt to drain the fluid, drop and clean the pan, change the filter and refill the fluid as described in the files. If it has been a long time and or the fluid is toast then they will button it up turn it over and repeat the drain and fill a couple times. This will get most of the old stuff out. Proper fill level is critical and temperature dependent. The fluid you want is Pentosin ATF1 Equivalent to Audi Vw G 052 162 A2 you can get it at Europarts and elsewhere. IVAN Therefore: I am, Dan --- In ev_update@..., "efickel" <EFickel@...> wrote: of 115 miles. I suppose I need to have it towed -- could I drive it? Hehim to use a rebuilt transmission from one of the websites on this list?months? process. BTW -- is there an agreed upon source for the the transmission fluid |
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Re: Interference fit engine & head damage ???
David Ewing
First, the motor in the Aveo is a VW??? From what you wrote, that's what it
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sounds like. Second, I agree with the two answers you have received on this already. If it did break a timing belt on the freeway and it's an interference motor then more than likely you have at least a bent valve or eight. If a valve broke off, there is a chance that the motor is bad, BUT, there is a chance that is isn't. Maybe one bad piston? But, there is one scenario that was left out, there is a CHANCE that the valves didn't hit at all! I've seen this happen a few times on the old VW 16v motors, install a timing belt and away you go again. You have to take special care in turning the motor over to align the timing marks to get the new timing belt on, though. Lastly, I think that a used motor would probably be your best bet, again with a new timing belt and tensioner while the motor is out (it's easy then) and if the water pump is timing belt ran then replace that too. BUT, I would definitely try a timing belt and tensioner on the old motor to see if damage was actually done. If so, you can reuse the timing belt and tensioner on the new/used motor anyway. Also, if it does have some damage then I would definitely tear it apart to see the extent and what it would cost to do the work. I, myself, have been able to pull a head and replace valves for a few hundred dollars. It REALLY isn't that expensive, what ends up being expensive is SHOP labor, SHOP parts, and all the other expenses that go along with it. It's a LOT cheaper to do the work yourself if you know what you are doing. Since I have been a mechanic professionally, I got a small shop to diddle in and do my own stuff along with a few money making projects once in a while. It's nice not to have to pay $80 to $100/hr at retail shops to do work that basically anyone with a little know how can do on their own with a manual, a few tools and a little know how. Anyway, good luck on it! Dave -----Original Message-----
From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf Of TYA2 Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:15 PM To: ev_update@... Cc: rialta-tech@... Subject: [ev_update] Interference fit engine & head damage ??? Ok tech experts here is the tough $$$ question. I know that some of you on the list have the experience of having a timing belt fail and getting into engine problems. I am looking for information on what happened to you and how things worked out. This question is not knocking the VW products, because the engine was in a GM Korea produced Chevy Aveo (4 cylinder 1.6 L gas engine,) Basic scenario at about 40,000 miles on the odometer.Friday night last he was driving at 60 mph on I-5 north of Seattle Washington when he lost power in 5th gear, tried shifting down to 4 but basically the engine died and he coasted to the side of the highway. I know all this because I was following him in a rental car about 6 car lengths back. The engine would not start, so we had the vehicle towed to Everett Chevrolet. Saturday morning the dealer said it must be a timing belt, I have no mechanic until Monday. It should be an easy job. We continued back to Canada 900 miles further away. Monday morning I was told yes it is a timing belt but we have no idea why it failed, there should be no internal damage. $300. Monday afternoon we were told the timing belt failed because the tensioner was broken. (one is now ordered). Tuesday afternoon we were told the head is damaged. (16 valve engine). The estimate is another $2000.00.... This car had no warranty it expired at 3 years, 36,000 miles. Here are my concerns what are the chances the rest of the engine is TOAST? Even if we change the head and the pistons have no marks on them what are chance the bits of valves are not going to destroy the engine once it is put back together? I can do an oil change but are their bits of debris that won't come out? I know some of you have done the damaged timing belt, damaged valves and head scenarios in VWs, what did you decide to do? What would you do? I can buy a complete factory reman for $4000 or get engines out of wreckers for 800 to 1400, with installation at about $500. The issues with this car, is it my son's transportation, we live near Edmonton, Canada, and he goes to college south of Seattle. We aren't really interested in warranty, we are interested in reliability. Do we get the car fixed in Washington, or bring it back to Canada and get the work done here? Even U-haul is a hassle, they won't rent a tow dolly, they say I need an auto trailer (ground clearance issues). They won't rent me a pick up truck to tow a car with and they won't rent me a cube van because I am a foreigner (so when did being a white Canadian male be such a big deal?) I mean the last time we invaded the US was about 200 years ago... and that was under a different king... :>) Do we just swap the whole engine now and sleep better? My wife is the worrier. I am the bill payer. Seattle area listers can you recommend the name of good local independent shop, or wrecking yards that might have GM products, and honest reliable towing companies... Please reply direct to tya2@... <mailto:tya2%404-fly.net> Reg near Edmonton E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.10090e <> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322) Database version: 5.10090e |
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Re: 2003 EV MV Transmission
gti_matt
I've called a dozen transmission shops. No one will flush mytransmission fluid and replace the filter. "We don't work on Volkswagens, " is the standard response. How strange. They'd turn away a gazillion Golfs and Jettas too? The EV 4-speed auto is nearly the same transmission as a 4-speed auto golf or Jetta. I have found one person that will actually work on the transmission.Now I have to get the car from the dealer to this shop, a distance of 115 miles. I suppose I need to have it towed -- could I drive it? Is it driveable? If so, I'd just drive it. He says that if it needs work, he will rebuild the transmission ratherthan purchasing a rebuilt unit. Is that OK? Or should I encourage him to use a rebuilt transmission from one of the websites on this list? Probably depends on what he actually does in the rebuild and what his warranty is vs. the others. BTW -- is there an agreed upon source for the the transmission fluidthat will be less expensive than the dealer network? is a great alternative to anything dealer. |
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Re: 2003 EV MV Transmission
efickel
Wow -- this is an incredibly frustrating process.
I've called a dozen transmission shops. No one will flush my transmission fluid and replace the filter. "We don't work on Volkswagens," is the standard response. I have found one person that will actually work on the transmission. Now I have to get the car from the dealer to this shop, a distance of 115 miles. I suppose I need to have it towed -- could I drive it? He says that if it needs work, he will rebuild the transmission rather than purchasing a rebuilt unit. Is that OK? Or should I encourage him to use a rebuilt transmission from one of the websites on this list? Volkswagen has offered to help. They'll give me a $1500 cash back coupon redeemable for six months. Isn't that rich? I have to spend $6000 for repairs, and they expect I'll want to replace it in six months? I'll keep plugging away. Thanks for your help throughout the process. BTW -- is there an agreed upon source for the the transmission fluid that will be less expensive than the dealer network? -Erich |
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Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
Daytime Driving Lights?
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In a message dated 6/20/2008 6:35:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
schellhase@... writes: what is a DDL? ****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. () |
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Re: 2003 EV MV Transmission
What does the dealer say when you show them your operator's manual that says
"change ATF every 40k miles"? Bob W. --- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) , "efickel" <EFickel@...> wrote:
****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. () |
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Re: Looking for Eurovan curtains!!!
--- In ev_update@..., "Jan" <antjan@...> wrote:
curtains for my '99 Eurovan MV? help!!There are some on ebay from $179-250 or you could make some. Get old curtains from a thrift store and get snaps at a craft or fabric store. Take a snap from your van to match them. |
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Need a custom gas spring for your top or hatch?
Stuart MacMillan
I posted earlier about a source for the OEM gas springs:
www.spdhardware.com, and I just boosted my top from 100 lb lift to 120 lb lift. It's great, the top opens itself practically. You do need to weigh over 100 lbs to pull it down though! For my old shoulders, pulling is easier than pushing! For those of you who carry stuff on top, or need a custom gas spring for other things (rear hatch) SPD sells a vented adjustable strut that you can reduce pressure on until it works properly, then you can send it back and get a set with your required pressure. Pretty cool: The top adjustable spring is the SPD-GSVL-3100-250, with the stock spring being 100 lbs: SPD-GSVL-3100-100, $21.53 each. I think this will also work for the rear hatch. So, if you have rack on the hatch and want extra lift, here's how you get it. Have fun! Stuart '97 EVC |
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Re: A/C and Poptop Photos Added to Photos Section
Jose Magsaysay wrote:
I installed a MaxxFan recently andJose, Could you please post photos of your install? All of the fan units I looked at last year did **not** fit the opening on the EVC exactly, so there was the added "benefit" of having to modify the freaking ceiling hole with a chain saw or to have to fill in the already too-big hole because the fan was too small! There was another benefit of having too tall of a profile to fit in the garage or in some parking garages... so, I am wondering how you managed with your install? I didn't spend enough time last year looking for the right manufacturer and model, I suppose. Which unit did you purchase? Pictures would be great (inside and out). Thanks, Garrett 1999 EVC, "DolphinJazz" 2002 EVC, "Serenity" |
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Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
As long as you guys don't gas up anywhere near me...
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I used to drive with the fridge on propane too, but I found I was always having to clean the burner. All that wind from driving probably causes a lot of flicker and soot buildup. That and the danger situation. A few years ago, I bought some vent covers from a nice guy on this list. I keep those in place all the time (except when running on propane of course) and haven't had to clean the burner box since. --Michael Wise Ketchum, Idaho Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile -----Original Message-----
From: Larry Schellhase <schellhase@...> Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 08:57:45 To:ev_update@... Subject: [ev_update] Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem) Forest do you do this in areas that do not have vapor recovery systems on the gas pumps? I feel relatively safe refueling with the Norcold running on propane when the gas pump has a vapor recovery system, but when the pumps do not have vapor recovery I turn the fridge off before filling. * * * Warning - I am not stating this is a safe practice or recommending that anyone else should do what I do. * * * Larry LA, CA --- On Fri, 6/20/08, forest flanigan <creoflan@...> wrote: If you have a hard time finding a replacement solenoid or can't trace the problem you can always drive with the fridge on propane . Some folks recommend turning the propane off during fueling but I find no problem with leaving the fridge lit while refueling. If you do turn off the fridge while putting gas in you need a well charged rear battery to get it re lit. Good luck Forest ? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@... Yahoo! Groups Links |
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Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
Larry Schellhase
Forest do you do this in areas that do not have vapor recovery systems on the gas pumps? I feel relatively safe refueling with the Norcold running on propane when the gas pump has a vapor recovery system, but when the pumps do not have vapor recovery I turn the fridge off before filling.
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* * * Warning - I am not stating this is a safe practice or recommending that anyone else should do what I do. * * * Larry LA, CA --- On Fri, 6/20/08, forest flanigan <creoflan@...> wrote:
If you have a hard time finding a replacement solenoid or can't trace the problem you can always drive with the fridge on propane . Some folks recommend turning the propane off during fueling but I find no problem with leaving the fridge lit while refueling. If you do turn off the fridge while putting gas in you need a well charged rear battery to get it re lit. Good luck Forest ? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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Re: 2003 EV MV Transmission
gti_matt
The pressure screw is in the manifold which is inside the pan, whichmakes incremental tweaks a PITA. That is true...if you want to make incremental tweaks you have to drop the pan again. It has a ratchet feature to it that only allows you to turn it in, raising pressure.Correct. Personally I wouldn't touch it without first getting a pressure test. You may cause more harm than good and there is no going back, at least not without considerable expense.For another point of view, I have yet to see any thread on this subject where someone did this and regretted it. Every post with feedback I've seen seems to have nothing but good things to say. Here are pics and instructions. This is for a Mk4 Golf/Jetta 01M trans but the Eurovan's 01P is similar. |
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Re: Looking for Eurovan curtains!!!
gti_matt
I have searched and searched. Is there ANYWHERE I can get some curtains for my '99 Eurovan MV? help!!FWIW, I found mine on Ebay. They show up from time to time. My van was a '00 and the ones I got were from a '93 and they fit just fine...same snap locations. Just keep checking ebay. |
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