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Re: bed wear - reality check

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

I cannot see any problem with using a standard MT5 center, unless there is a lip/step inside the spindle to stop it going right in, you could turn a short spigot on the end if it won’t go in fully, the V13 has the same spindle bore and takes a standard MT5 center. I rarely use a center at the headstock, when I do I just take a piece of scrap bar, mount it in the 3 jaw and turn a 60 degree point on it, this is just as accurate unless you remove it from the chuck, if you do, all that is needed is to take a light cut off of it to true it up the next time you use it, save your cash for something else J. I have my tailstock set, and never touch it; it is a real PITA to get it reset accurately, I‘ve been promising to make an adjustable center for the tailstock for taper turning. Another I have on the “To Do” list is a taper turning attachment!

Frank.

?

-----Original Message-----

From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 4:05 PM
To: Emco V10 group
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

Yes, I meant lift.? I was looking for any kind of adjustment, and on the S11 there is that same lip - just 2 screws can tighten the gap.? That 'adjustment' is what I was talking about.? Is this a silly way to think about it?

?

I was curious about the weight and downward cutting force being the main components to assuring accuracy and good cuts.? I don't have a center for the headstock yet.? I know I have to adjust the setover because on a long bar I found more of a taper than I would like.? Don't recall the number but I figure it'd be easy to do better.? For that?I need to make a test bar I think.? Actually, I don't have a center for the headstock, something I will also need.? It's supposed to be MT5.? But in the manual it looks like a short stubby thing, and looking into the spindle I see that it would need to be.? Can someone that has an S11 with the D1-4 spindle verify that this is a part I need to get from Emco?? That a MT5 dead center from Enco would not work?

?


--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

 

开云体育

Yes, I meant lift.? I was looking for any kind of adjustment, and on the S11 there is that same lip - just 2 screws can tighten the gap.? That 'adjustment' is what I was talking about.? Is this a silly way to think about it?
?
I was curious about the weight and downward cutting force being the main components to assuring accuracy and good cuts.? I don't have a center for the headstock yet.? I know I have to adjust the setover because on a long bar I found more of a taper than I would like.? Don't recall the number but I figure it'd be easy to do better.? For that?I need to make a test bar I think.? Actually, I don't have a center for the headstock, something I will also need.? It's supposed to be MT5.? But in the manual it looks like a short stubby thing, and looking into the spindle I see that it would need to be.? Can someone that has an S11 with the D1-4 spindle verify that this is a part I need to get from Emco?? That a MT5 dead center from Enco would not work?

On 4/21/2006 at 3:33 PM Frank Hasieber wrote:

I just looked at the lathe, there is a lip on the apron which fits under the edge of the bed to prevent lifting, but this is not adjustable, the only form of adjustment is the carriage clamp, but I dont think that is its primary purpose although there are 2 cap head screws which can be tightened to stiffen up the carriage travel.

?

-----Original Message-----
From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Frank Hasieber
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 3:04 PM
To: emcoV10lathe@...
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

I dont know, Ive never tried! OK correct that, Ive just been down and tried, I mounted the dial gauge on the saddle, with the plunger in contact with the flat portion of the bed between the ways, using a 0.01mm gauge I get less than 0.01mm (0.0004) over a 500mm movement of the carriage. I assume you meant move the carriage not live it, or was that Lift? Lifting of course would not really prove anything, it would only indicate the clearance of the tightening adjustment, if the carriage was loosened to the point where it was very easy to move it could be quite large, but if you tighten to the point where it is difficult to move the carriage it should be almost zero, the weight of the saddle etc plus the downward cutting force should keep it firmly in contact with the ways at all times. Looking at the V13 parts manual there is a fiber, keep plate that fits under the edge of the bed to stop the rear lifting, there doesnt appear to be anything listed for the front they could be relying on weight alone to keep it down. I hope I have understood correctly.

Frank.

?


--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

I just looked at the lathe, there is a lip on the apron which fits under the edge of the bed to prevent lifting, but this is not adjustable, the only form of adjustment is the carriage clamp, but I don’t think that is it’s primary purpose although there are 2 cap head screws which can be tightened to stiffen up the carriage travel.

?

-----Original Message-----

From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Frank Hasieber
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 3:04 PM
To: emcoV10lathe@...
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

I don’t know, I’ve never tried! OK correct that, I’ve just been down and tried, I mounted the dial gauge on the saddle, with the plunger in contact with the flat portion of the bed between the ways, using a 0.01mm gauge I get less than 0.01mm (0.0004”) over a 500mm movement of the carriage. I assume you meant move the carriage not live it, or was that Lift? Lifting of course would not really prove anything, it would only indicate the clearance of the tightening adjustment, if the carriage was loosened to the point where it was very easy to move it could be quite large, but if you tighten to the point where it is difficult to move the carriage it should be almost zero, the weight of the saddle etc plus the downward cutting force should keep it firmly in contact with the ways at all times. Looking at the V13 parts manual there is a fiber, keep plate that fits under the edge of the bed to stop the rear lifting, there doesn’t appear to be anything listed for the front they could be relying on weight alone to keep it down. I hope I have understood correctly.

Frank.

?

-----Original Message-----
From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 1:54 PM
To: Emco V10 group
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

Thanks.? So if you mount an indicator on the cross slide and indicate on the bed, and live the carriage - how much play do you get?




--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

I don’t know, I’ve never tried! OK correct that, I’ve just been down and tried, I mounted the dial gauge on the saddle, with the plunger in contact with the flat portion of the bed between the ways, using a 0.01mm gauge I get less than 0.01mm (0.0004”) over a 500mm movement of the carriage. I assume you meant move the carriage not live it, or was that Lift? Lifting of course would not really prove anything, it would only indicate the clearance of the tightening adjustment, if the carriage was loosened to the point where it was very easy to move it could be quite large, but if you tighten to the point where it is difficult to move the carriage it should be almost zero, the weight of the saddle etc plus the downward cutting force should keep it firmly in contact with the ways at all times. Looking at the V13 parts manual there is a fiber, keep plate that fits under the edge of the bed to stop the rear lifting, there doesn’t appear to be anything listed for the front they could be relying on weight alone to keep it down. I hope I have understood correctly.

Frank.

?

-----Original Message-----

From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 1:54 PM
To: Emco V10 group
Subject: RE: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

Thanks.? So if you mount an indicator on the cross slide and indicate on the bed, and live the carriage - how much play do you get?




--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

 

开云体育

Thanks.? So if you mount an indicator on the cross slide and indicate on the bed, and live the carriage - how much play do you get?

On 4/21/2006 at 12:34 PM Frank Hasieber wrote:

Rich, I wouldnt bother, it is rare that you will want to turn anything longer than 10, I did in one of our early contacts mention that you would probably find this to be the case, as about 90% of all the use of the lathe is within 10 of the chuck, in the 20+ years I have had my V13 I think I have only once needed to turn a piece of more than 500mm long, I do now feel the travel tighten as I move the carriage towards the tailstock, but it is of no consequence, one of the big plusses is that the headstock of these lathes is removable from the bed which simplifies the grinding if you decide to have the bed reground, chuck a piece of bar preferably at least 1 diameter and make a test cut over a 10 length and measure any difference between the two ends, but I would do nothing until you find it is a problem. I set it to work comfortably near the headstock, I can still traverse the full bed length but it does tighten up slightly.

?


--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: bed wear - reality check

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

Rich, I wouldn’t bother, it is rare that you will want to turn anything longer than 10”, I did in one of our early contacts mention that you would probably find this to be the case, as about 90% of all the use of the lathe is within 10” of the chuck, in the 20+ years I have had my V13 I think I have only once needed to turn a piece of more than 500mm long, I do now feel the travel tighten as I move the carriage towards the tailstock, but it is of no consequence, one of the big plusses is that the headstock of these lathes is removable from the bed which simplifies the grinding if you decide to have the bed reground, chuck a piece of bar preferably at least 1” diameter and make a test cut over a 10” length and measure any difference between the two ends, but I would do nothing until you find it is a problem. I set it to work comfortably near the headstock, I can still traverse the full bed length but it does tighten up slightly.

Frank. ?

?

-----Original Message-----

From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Richard Kleinhenz
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 2:55 AM
To: Emco V10 group
Subject: [emcoV10lathe] bed wear - reality check

?

OK, I'm getting used to my new Super 11.? So now I am discovering the little things you don't notice at first when you buy a new lathe.? Unless you have the experience to look exactly for the right things.

?

I find the bed is worn near the headstock.? Not unexpected in a used lathe.? I'm sure others' used lathes have that also.? So my question is:? How much vert. play do you have on the carriage near the headstock?? If I set for close to zero play at the tailstock end, I have nearly .005" hear the headstock.? Well, life is not perfect though I'd like it to be.? How do you live with the play?? Does it affect how you work?? Do you tighten to get rid of play when working near the headstock, and loosen it if you work on a long piece?? Or not bother?

?


--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
bed wear - reality check

 

开云体育

OK, I'm getting used to my new Super 11.? So now I am discovering the little things you don't notice at first when you buy a new lathe.? Unless you have the experience to look exactly for the right things.
?
I find the bed is worn near the headstock.? Not unexpected in a used lathe.? I'm sure others' used lathes have that also.? So my question is:? How much vert. play do you have on the carriage near the headstock?? If I set for close to zero play at the tailstock end, I have nearly .005" hear the headstock.? Well, life is not perfect though I'd like it to be.? How do you live with the play?? Does it affect how you work?? Do you tighten to get rid of play when working near the headstock, and loosen it if you work on a long piece?? Or not bother?
?

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz
================================
Re: Need manuel for V10P

 

I have a manual for my V10P, I'll scan it and send you a copy. Please
send me an email directly & any other takers. Eric


--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "rns928rns928" <rpierce@...> wrote:

Hi All, New to the board and hoping for some help.I just bought a
V10P
lathe/mill and was looking for a manuel of operation/parts.The lathe
is
in good shape and came with a bunch of extra stuff I`m trying to
figure
out what it`s for.What type oil is used in the gear box and is the
mill
gear box the same type.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thank
You
Ray
Need manuel for V10P

 

Hi All, New to the board and hoping for some help.I just bought a V10P
lathe/mill and was looking for a manuel of operation/parts.The lathe is
in good shape and came with a bunch of extra stuff I`m trying to figure
out what it`s for.What type oil is used in the gear box and is the mill
gear box the same type.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thank You
Ray
Re: V10 parts and accessories...

almus_kenter
 

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Charles Morrill"
<chasfred2002@...> wrote:

Thanks for your reply Almus.
I was planning on purchasing a gear cutter from Blue Ridge as
they probably
know exactly what I'll need. Was thinking of pressing the Sheldon
shaper into
use, but I don't think a single point tool will cut the fiber all
that well.
I've been told the fiber was used to cut down on noise, but I'm
not sure this
is so.
As regards the Shumatech DRO...I think you're right about the
cost but I've always
wanted to build one and have an extra six inch Chinese scale left
over from another
project. What the heck, it's kind of fun to get out the soldering iron.
Speaking of Emco stuff, do you know if EMCO made a single
version of their
toolpost grinder, or several? There's one on ebay now and I'm
wondering if it would
work for the V10-p

I have a tool post grinder. I purchased it from someone who
used it on their V10P. He said it was for a S11.
Apparently it fits both. But I have not used it yet. A gentleman
I corresponded with had a whole bunch of V10P stuff that he sold
me as a package; grinder, change gears , Uni quadrant, stop,
Thread dial... The guy who sold me the grinder said that he
used it twice. I am not sure when I would use it. But now
that I have it I will have to think of a reason.

Good luck with the Shumatech. I often curse the Chinese scales
They have too many idiosyncracies. I can understand why no
one who used a lathe professionally would use a chinese-scale
based DRO. They are prone to failure. You can just get
a chinese 6 inch caliper for 15 dollars, modify it with a dremel
tool and you are set. Long ~28inch chinese scales are comparable
in cost to glass qudrature scales.

Yes indeed the fiber gears are much quieter than the steel ones.
My super 11 is very noticeably noiser.

I have the dvd on making a gears which involves making a gear hob.
Pretty straightforward.

Have you tried Boston gear? It is possible that you could get
gears that would work but may need modification of the bore.

Good luck,.

-Almus
Re: Steady rest for S11

 

On 4/19/2006 at 12:22 AM Richard W. Remington wrote:

The Metal Lathe Accessories (www.mlatoolbox@...)Steady rest works
well on the S11, as
does the rear mounted cutoff tool post.
Oh good - I was looking at that, but it said 12" swing and up, been meaning to ask

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================
Steady rest for S11

Richard W. Remington
 

The Metal Lathe Accessories (www.mlatoolbox@...)Steady rest works
well on the S11, as
does the rear mounted cutoff tool post. I agree on the follower rest--
I have had one on order with Blue Ridge for over 6 Mo. I give them a
call every month to remind them of my back order.
Why replace the S10 gears with fibre? It would not be as quiet with
metal gears but more rugged. Prehaps replaceing the 2 or3 final drive
gears with metal would help.
Re: V10 parts and accessories...

Charles Morrill
 

Thanks for your reply Almus.

> I have yet to strip a gear.
How do you plan to make the gears? are you going to buy
a gear cutter set? or are you going to make a hob? If you
figure out the gear dimensions and specs I would be
grateful if you were to share them with me. I would
like to have that information "just in case"
I was planning on purchasing a gear cutter from Blue Ridge as they probably
know exactly what I'll need. Was thinking of pressing the Sheldon shaper into
use, but I don't think a single point tool will cut the fiber all that well.
I've been told the fiber was used to cut down on noise, but I'm not sure this
is so.
As regards the Shumatech DRO...I think you're right about the cost but I've always
wanted to build one and have an extra six inch Chinese scale left over from another
project. What the heck, it's kind of fun to get out the soldering iron.
Speaking of Emco stuff, do you know if EMCO made a single version of their
toolpost grinder, or several? There's one on ebay now and I'm wondering if it would
work for the V10-p
Many thanks.

Waumbek
Re: V10 parts and accessories...

almus_kenter
 

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "Charles Morrill"
<chasfred2002@...> wrote:

...Lots of interesting stuff.
Hi Charles. Thanks for the long post about V10p.

I have three emco lathes, C8, V10P and Super-11.
They obviously have a common heritage and many of
the parts are interchangeable. I guess this
is why I ended up with three lathes. My C8 spindle
accessories fit my V10P. The whole S11 compound would
fit the V10P; the mount spacings are the same.
I got tired of looking for accessories and then
bought a S11; D1-4 mount and 5c collets open up
a new world of options.

My v10p still has a functioning switch and electrics.
If the motor/switch were to die I would go to a VFD and
a 3 phase motor. The 3ph motors are readily available
in the US at ~120.00-150.00. The motor is a standard
European frame.

Blue Ridge has 3ph motors for the lathe for ~360.00. OUCH!

I have yet to strip a gear.
How do you plan to make the gears? are you going to buy
a gear cutter set? or are you going to make a hob? If you
figure out the gear dimensions and specs I would be
grateful if you were to share them with me. I would
like to have that information "just in case"



I have built two Shumatechs DROs and I have one mounted
on my mill and I am half done mounting one to my V10P.
I would be interested to see how you mount your scales
to your machine. Similarly, I would be glad to show you
how I will do mine. I have the X axis done and
am planning/doing the y axis (cross slide) now.
Are you using glass/quadrature scales? or the
Chinese scales?
I have all the parts to build a third Shumatech.
In my opinion, the Chinese scales and cables are the
weakest point of the Shumatechs. Also given the time and effort
and cost of making the shumatech, it is not clear it
is that great a deal. The folks over at the shumatech
group seem to worship the things.... I think they are
pretty good but if I had to do it over again, I might
try to find a used "name brand". The Shumatechs have
their quirks. A set of glass scales (Jenix) for the
V10P/S11 cost about 330.00 (6 inch + 28 inch).
Plus the Jenix scales are BIG; not a problem for
the x axis but a PIA for the y.


Good luck and let us know if you stumble across
any EMCO treasure troves.

-Almus
Re: V10 parts and accessories...

Frank Hasieber
 

开云体育

?

?

?

From ads for Emco lathes that I have seen in “ Model Engineer” I believe that the smaller Emco lathes are now all made in Taiwan/China, but are still sold under the Emco label, so I would assume they have to meet certain Emco quality standards.

Frank.

?

-----Original Message-----

From: emcoV10lathe@... [mailto:emcoV10lathe@...]On Behalf Of Charles Morrill
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2006 1:14 AM
To: emcoV10lathe@...
Subject: [emcoV10lathe] V10 parts and accessories..

?

Interestingly, the business Little Machine Shop has a
Chinese one for sale that looks very much like the EMCO, though probably not made as
well. Hey, it might do in a pinch.

Cheers, Charles Morrill aka "Waumbek"
V10 parts and accessories...

Charles Morrill
 

I thought I might mention and also ask for some help concerning accessories for my
V-10 p in addition to offering help and some hopefully accurate notes.
I have a lovely V10-p and also an older V10 in not very good shape that is gathering
dust as a parts machine. The two main problems with these lathes appear to be the
micarta (fiber, whatever) headstock gears and the electrical switching arrangement on the
headstock.
As for the electrical switch, if you've got a good one and it's still working, get yourself a
junction box and an on/off switch that you can plug into the machine. Keep the machine
switched off as you gently select the headstock switches to depress, then when you've
done so, actually turn the machine on and off with the switch on the junction box.
Whenever I push the headstock switches on and off with my machine, the machine is
powered off. This allows me to take care of the switches. I'd like to keep the machine
original for fun although VFD has a whole lot of appeal.
Once in a while, spare switches do come up on ebay. I bought one last year for about
$170.
Regarding the fiber headstock gears, Blue Ridge will sell them to you still if you twist
their arm, but they'll cost you several hundred bucks. This seems a bit too much for me,
so I'm planning on making an extra set and figure I'll shell out for the cutter. Steve
Stallings, of the Chesapeake Area Metalworking Society (CAMS) recently gave me a huge
chunk of fiber gear material and I'm going to take apart the headstock of the thrashed V10
to reproduce some fiber gears at some point. To that end, I've got an order into Blue Ridge
for the EMCO rotary table/dividing head. They actually had three in stock but all three had
their handles broken off. New ones are about three or four weeks out at this point.
While the EMCO rotary table is quite expensive, I think it's important to mention that it
really is still available, so that's one major original accessory you can still get. They come
up on ebay fairly often, but sell for almost exactly the same price that Blue Ridge still has
them for - around $550. Make sure you order the adaptor plate for the lathe chucks if you
decide to go this route. I believe it's still available for the short taper three bolt spindle
mounting. It used to come with a bushing that centers everything up on the rotary table.
T bolts for the table can still be had, but I've made my own because they're so dear
from Blue Ridge. It looks to me like the lateral cross slide stop for most of these lathes is
also available.
About Blue Ridge...I find them helpful, but I've also found it useful to study lots of
literature about something before calling them up. It kind of gently helps to remind them
how things go together before asking if they have something...You can hardly blame them,
the V10, V10-p has been out of production for many years at this point.
Back to the fiber headstock gears...Blue Ridge says they're simply pressed on their steel
centers. I find that hard to believe, but there you go.
Regarding my junk V10...my interest is in the headstock fiber gears, so if you need
some other part, please let me know. It has a quick change gearbox that's pretty stiff but if
you need one, email me at "cmorrill@..." I'll part with it for $100 bucks if you'll
pay shipping.
The other headstock parts are also up for grabs. I do not have a compound or a
tailstock for this machine. I believe it's 220 single phase. I have no idea about the motor
and the headstock electrical switch is a mess. The tumble reverse gears are busted, but
the carriage handwheels might prove useful to someone as might the lathe bed itself.
Speaking of busted gears...it's generally a bad idea to take an intermittant cut with
these lathes or their associated mill heads. I wouldn't use a fly cutter with the mill head,
for example. Saw a mill head on ebay last year that had been done in by someone
attempting to use a fly cutter.
Hope some of this info helps, and if I'm wrong, please feel free to correct it.
Someday I'd like to purchase one of the toolpost grinders for the V10 that keep turning
up on ebay every six months or so. Interestingly, the business Little Machine Shop has a
Chinese one for sale that looks very much like the EMCO, though probably not made as
well. Hey, it might do in a pinch.
I'm currently building a Shumatech DRO for my maximat.
I might also mention that some of the kits from Metal Lathe Accessories will fit the
Maximat just fine. I'm building the ball turning toolpost and have built the carriage stop
and find it works to a t. I've just got to get some proper green paint.
Anyone else got an idea of what EMCO parts and accessories are still available? I'd love
a steady rest, either fixed or traveling, but these seem two of the hardest things to come
by. Anyone go to Cabin Fever back in 2005? Guy showed up with a mint V10-p including
a pile of accessories. Yup, mint. Incredible. So, I guess the parts are out there.

Cheers, Charles Morrill aka "Waumbek"
Re: VFD wiring

 

On 4/16/2006 at 12:46 PM almus_kenter wrote:

270 new. I got it from dealerselectric.com (or something like that)
I have not purchased a resistor yet. But I plan to.
Right now the lathe coasts to a stop.
What was the price from amarillo?
It's a little less like $240 or so

Yes. I do not have the safety version of the S11 and
still it was a bit of a fit.

I think the price was reasonable...but it came right on
the heels of my buying the lathe so it was a bit painful.
I know - that's where I'm at... all these items that are not unreasonable by themselves DO add up! At least I have a VFD that was reasonable to get me started, that resistor just threw me, and it seems that I have a way out eventually - replace the VFD. I'd probably still leave it external - on the wall is quite OK where I have the lathe. That way I can also use the touch pad if I want to change something - rear access to the electr. box on the lathe is a little limited. I have it close to a wall, enough space to get in there and open the door, but not a lot of wiggle room.

Happy Easter to you also!

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================
Re: VFD wiring

almus_kenter
 

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

Actually I found that drive at amarilloelectric.com for a good
price, and they have the resistor also - for $17. Definitely not
gonna invest into the resistor module for the Reliance drive!

On 4/15/2006 at 9:50 AM Richard Kleinhenz wrote:

Is that $270 new or used? Sounds like an excellent price! How much


270 new. I got it from dealerselectric.com (or something like that)
I have not purchased a resistor yet. But I plan to.
Right now the lathe coasts to a stop.
What was the price from amarillo?

Yes. I do not have the safety version of the S11 and
still it was a bit of a fit.

I think the price was reasonable...but it came right on
the heels of my buying the lathe so it was a bit painful.

To tell you the truth I am scared to sum the $ I have
spent so far. Right now I am doing a DRO; in my opinion
it's the best thing to spend money on. Temporarily, plunger
dial indicators with magnetic bases fit the bill,
but a DRO makes things SO much better and faster.
I have built a couple of the Shumatch DROs. In retrospect
getting them to work with Chinese scales is a bit of a PIA.
If I had to do it over again I would try to find a complete
glass scale system.

Happy Easter


-Almus
Re: VFD wiring

 

Actually I found that drive at amarilloelectric.com for a good price, and they have the resistor also - for $17. Definitely not gonna invest into the resistor module for the Reliance drive!

On 4/15/2006 at 9:50 AM Richard Kleinhenz wrote:

Is that $270 new or used? Sounds like an excellent price! How much was
the resistor?

I know mine won't fit into the lathe - you probably don't have the 'safety
electric' version - in that one all the space is taken up with the extra
relays etc
--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================
Re: VFD wiring

 

I found the Fm100-202. Did you get a resistor? How much was that?

On 4/15/2006 at 1:33 PM almus_kenter wrote:

I only need a passive resistor. My VFD is a Westinghouse-TECO.
I have one one for my mill as well; I like having the "shared
heritage" for the benefit of the learning curve.

I paid 270.xx for it. So far I think it is great, Like Dave
I manged to get mine inside the back of the lathe.
--
Regards,
Rich
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Richard Kleinhenz


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