On 4/14/2006 at 10:46 PM Frank Hasieber wrote:
Rich, the 4 jaw chuck for my V10 is 150mm/6”, Bison chucks are excellent
and reasonably priced. Oops! Just done a Google, the smallest they make is
8”. The V13 has an 8”, but for speeds of 2500rpm you should have a steel
bodied chuck.

Steel-bodied as opposed to ? Aren't they all?

So can you tell me how far the jaws stick out on the 8"? Of course one will always rotate by hand first, so I don't really know why I'm concerned. Biggest concern I think is the mass of an 8", is it a match for the S11. Would you consider putting the 8" onto the V10?

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

开云体育

开云体育

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

I just called Reliance about the cost for the braking resistor. I

nearly fainted when I heard a number over $300!!! This thing is a
little more than the resistor, there is also the control logic that
gets it into the circuit when the DC bus voltage goes up. I
understand that some drives have the logic in the drive, and the
resistor is the only external part. But looking around I still see
this as a really high $ item. Wow!!! My drive cost me $80... it's
used, of course, and there's no way I'll stumble across a specialized
accessory like that. Still hard to swallow the price!

m
================================

What is the spec on the resistor that you need?
How many watts, ohms?

-Almus

I just called Reliance about the cost for the braking resistor. I nearly fainted when I heard a number over $300!!! This thing is a little more than the resistor, there is also the control logic that gets it into the circuit when the DC bus voltage goes up. I understand that some drives have the logic in the drive, and the resistor is the only external part. But looking around I still see this as a really high $ item. Wow!!! My drive cost me $80... it's used, of course, and there's no way I'll stumble across a specialized accessory like that. Still hard to swallow the price!

On 4/8/2006 at 7:19 PM davedamouth wrote:

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

Are you using what's referred to as a 'snubber resistor' in my VFD

manual? Had you tried without that and found you needed it, or is it
something that is just generally recommended and should always be used?

Not sure on the terminology your manual is using. All but the very
cheapest vfd's can usually use a braking resistor. It's a large
resistor that will attach to an extra set of terminals. Allows for
much faster deceleration than just the drive transistors. At 30 rpm,
a 1/2 second braking ramp will stop the spindle in 1/4 revolution.

I use them wherever possible. If something is going wrong, I want the
spindle to stop quickly. Even changing the work in and out of the
chuck goes quicker when you don't need to wait for it to stop.

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

I wonder if Emcos or specifically Super11s have a reputation for

leaking oil? I found a little puddle, but I can't exclude transport
or some of the strange manipulations to get it in place. Of course I
am keeping my eyes open from now on.


I thought I had a leak in my V10 QC gearbox, and it turned out that
it was just over-filled. I looked at the parts diagrams
and there was no indication of a seal where the lead screw
and power feed shafts come through.. The oil level was
above where the shaft(s) came through, and it would leak
very slowly

The headstock has a inspection window for checking the
lubrication level but the QC gear box does not..
If the previous owner was a little too enthusiastic
in fixing up the lathe he may have over filled it.

-Almus

开云体育

Thanks, Dave! I took the handwheel into the shop at work and one of the guys welded it :-) Works perfectly again.

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 4/12/2006 at 12:57 AM davedamouth wrote:

I received an email from loffy770.

"You can get new original handwheels from pro machine tools in UK.

I bought a number of them over time."

I don't have contact info, just wanted to pass along the option.

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

I received an email from loffy770.

"You can get new original handwheels from pro machine tools in UK.

I bought a number of them over time."

I don't have contact info, just wanted to pass along the option.


--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

I broke the handwheel on my new (used) S11 tailstock by dropping

it... Does anyone know about a generic replacement, or where would I
get it - does BlueRidge stock parts, or will they get them, or do I go
to Enco - here in the US or in Austria?

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...>
wrote:

It occurred to me that instead of routing the incoming through the

red rotary switch, if I bypassed that switch and instead put the switch
in series with the power-on low-voltage line to the VFD that might be a
better arrangement. This would use the electric brake when I hit the
switch.

That would work. I suppose for the ultimate in control when threading
up to a shoulder, you could also create a really nice circuit with a
mometary contact, like a jog button. In parallel with the existing
circuit, wire a mometary contact. When depressed, it stays active
until you release it. Releasing a button just before the collision is
much more likely to happen than turning a switch. I hate single phase
motors on lathes for that reason. They only reverse after coming to a
complete stop. Trying to run up to a shoulder, it's easy to get overly
nervous and throw the switch past off and into reverse. At which
point, it continues forward no matter how hard you twist the knob. Not
pretty....

Well, I have a master disconnect in the form of a switch in front of the VFD which allows me to disconnect all power to the machine for service work without having to run to the elec. panel and hit the circuit breaker.

It occurred to me that instead of routing the incoming through the red rotary switch, if I bypassed that switch and instead put the switch in series with the power-on low-voltage line to the VFD that might be a better arrangement. This would use the electric brake when I hit the switch.

On 4/10/2006 at 10:18 AM davedamouth wrote:

Yes. In order to be a real safety circuit, the power to the drive
needs to be interupted. Might not be foremost on the minds of a
hobbyist, but interupting a logic circuit while leaving the drive
powered is haphazard.

Now that you're learning about the multitude of commands and inputs,
anything becomes possible. If you prefer a single pushbutton to
cancel any speed or direction, toss one on. You can use the safety
interlock to do it, but be sure to leave an alternate master
disconnect. (a plug intead of hardwiring would suffice for the home shop)

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

On 4/8/2006 at 7:19 PM davedamouth wrote:

I use them wherever possible. If something is going wrong, I want the
spindle to stop quickly. Even changing the work in and out of the
chuck goes quicker when you don't need to wait for it to stop.

But when you hit the red switch the motor will coast to stop, right?

The braking resistor is only active when you use the black rotary
switch...


Yes. In order to be a real safety circuit, the power to the drive
needs to be interupted. Might not be foremost on the minds of a
hobbyist, but interupting a logic circuit while leaving the drive
powered is haphazard.

Now that you're learning about the multitude of commands and inputs,
anything becomes possible. If you prefer a single pushbutton to
cancel any speed or direction, toss one on. You can use the safety
interlock to do it, but be sure to leave an alternate master
disconnect. (a plug intead of hardwiring would suffice for the home shop)

On 4/8/2006 at 7:19 PM davedamouth wrote:

I use them wherever possible. If something is going wrong, I want the
spindle to stop quickly. Even changing the work in and out of the
chuck goes quicker when you don't need to wait for it to stop.

But when you hit the red switch the motor will coast to stop, right? The braking resistor is only active when you use the black rotary switch...

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

One of the settings was for 'coast to stop' - and it was set to ON. Now I turned it to ramp down and it stops really quickly!

I have a manual with mine, and it has a couple of pages for the electrical circuits. If there is interest I could scan those pages and post it. The 'Safety Electrical' version has extra thermal protectors and fuses. I think I will replace the fuses with circuit breaker replacements next time I go to Germany. No idea how easy those are to pop - I just don't like the idea of a one-time fuse.

I will talk to Rockwell Automation's tech support about the resistor, I am not sure what it will buy me since it does stop very fast. I won't be turning large masses.

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., "almus_kenter" <akenter@...> wrote:

Don't feel bad. (I am a physicist too) .

O.k., new plan. Imagine your an electron........

Nevermind. :)

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

I've got the VFD working correctly and sending the right power and

frequency to the lathe. But I can't get the safety interlock circuit
to work. I had to hook up the motor on the primary side of C1. At
first I had it after E1 - that makes the most sense. I could never
get any voltage on the output side of C1. The door switch works, and
I could sense voltage at all the (accessible) right places. Actually,
maybe what I did was not correct... I measured between anywhere on
the circuit to ground. Since the circuit is between 2 phases, I would
not notice a break.

Does anyone else have the 'Special Safety' version? Or understand

the circuitry really well?

I don't have amanual, so I'm not sure what constitutes a Special
Safety version. Mine does have the extra yellow and red master kill /
lockout switch above the regular 5 position barrel switch. That would
be the switch labelled A1 on the diagram. If you want to retain the
door interlock, you could disconnect it from the existing circuit and
route your "START" signal through the door switch. If the door switch
is interupted, it won't go.

I had to wire the switch differently, since my VFD required a START

signal, and only REVERSE signal - open circuit is forward. I just
took off all the jumpers and straps from the B1 switch, and wired it
up to give me the signals I needed. I am very grateful for the advise
and the diagrams posted that got me thinking in the right direction.

I also now see the need for the breaking resistor. Without that the

motor idles to a stop. Unless there are some settings in the VFD I
have not set properly yet.

What sort of ramp-up speeds are you setting? I noticed that when I

set the acc. time too short it would trip when going to high speed on
the fastest gearing.

I leave the acceleration set at about 4 to 5 seconds, and with the
resistor, I run 1 second stop ramp unless I'm trying to thread to a
shoulder, then I set it tighter.

The accel ramp shouldn't kick the drive out easily. You may have your
faceplate amp rating set too low, or you may need to allow it a bit
more overcurrent on ramp. There are 100's of things to play with in
the settings, so make sure you know how to restore the default
settings and then have at it. They're pretty hard to hurt...

I've got the VFD working correctly and sending the right power and frequency to the lathe. But I can't get the safety interlock circuit to work. I had to hook up the motor on the primary side of C1. At first I had it after E1 - that makes the most sense. I could never get any voltage on the output side of C1. The door switch works, and I could sense voltage at all the (accessible) right places. Actually, maybe what I did was not correct... I measured between anywhere on the circuit to ground. Since the circuit is between 2 phases, I would not notice a break.

Does anyone else have the 'Special Safety' version? Or understand the circuitry really well?

I had to wire the switch differently, since my VFD required a START signal, and only REVERSE signal - open circuit is forward. I just took off all the jumpers and straps from the B1 switch, and wired it up to give me the signals I needed. I am very grateful for the advise and the diagrams posted that got me thinking in the right direction.

I also now see the need for the breaking resistor. Without that the motor idles to a stop. Unless there are some settings in the VFD I have not set properly yet.

What sort of ramp-up speeds are you setting? I noticed that when I set the acc. time too short it would trip when going to high speed on the fastest gearing.

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

I'm inching closer I think. I think I will need to jumper the user-interlock at the VFD. I need to wire the motor after E1. The signals my VFD wants are a little different from yours, so I have to work through the switches. I think I'll just take everything off the switches, and wire up the controls I need using the connection scheme from the manual. Testing before hooking up the motor ;-)

--
Regards,
Rich
================================
Richard Kleinhenz


================================

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

Dave,
what wiring did your machine have? Mine is the 'Safety Electric'

wiring. I'm still trying to understand it. I'm a physicist, this
stuff is not totally alien to me, I just don't quite understand little
boxes that say 'low voltage release'. Trying to understand items like
c1 with terminals a/b and 13/14

If I wire the motor directly to the VFD, this whole circuit won't be

working, right? Since I won't have high voltage on it? My VFD wants
a low volt. signal though passed through an EMO switch... I am not
piecing it all together. I know I can get the functionality, I know I
can jumper that signal at the VFD side. Need to stare at it more I guess


There is a diagram in the pictures section, and a text file in the
files section. Figuring out the pinout on the barrel switch can be a
pain, and they are not all wired the same. It would be easier to
bypass it all, but you must insure that motor leads U2, V2, & W2 are
disconnected from the barrel switch. Otherwise, the position of your
switch can cause the motor to run in high speed.

Most VFD's provide the low voltage control circuit. I'm not familiar
with the little Rockwell drives, but it's often labelled Vcmn as it
uses the negative side. If you don't have a manual, there may be one
on the Allen Bradley website.

--- In emcoV10lathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz <richk@...> wrote:

Dave,
what wiring did your machine have? Mine is the 'Safety Electric'

wiring. I'm still trying to understand it. I'm a physicist, this
stuff is not totally alien to me, I just don't quite understand little
boxes that say 'low voltage release'. Trying to understand items like
c1 with terminals a/b and 13/14

Don't feel bad. (I am a physicist too) . Read over the VFD manual;
their features are very similar. It took me a bit of time looking
over the connections. Dave's diagram was very useful. Check your
connections and switching with a VOM (You are an experimentalist
right?). I was very wary hooking everything up.
At work I am a bit more cavalier 'cause if I fry
a 300.00 piece of electronics, the cost is in the noise, but
if I burn out my VFD or my motor, I will be hurting.

Keep in mind that your rotary switch may have
different jumpers wired in

My VFD is a Westinghouse-TECO, but I think they
are all very similar.

-Almus