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Just finished converting the cross slide to accommodate a tapered gib. These lathes are originally fitted with a parallel strip to adjust the motion pressure of the dovetail slides. Very crude and not effective especially when the cross slide is under power from a stepper motor. RELS. So I decided to make a tapered gib, where the pre load of the the slides can be adjusted by means of a wedge action. Gib is retained in the dovetail by means of headed screws front and rear of the cross slide. My material of choice was phosphor bronze, but good grade cast iron is OK. There are many videos available for making tapered gibs, much better than I can explain. The taper was drafted out using Master Cam and CNC milled using the DDCSV 2.1 I have attached photos of the actual gib, WIP, the grooves are for oil passages. Soon to follow up with Part 2 , maching the top compound slide dovetail taper. -- John

Guys This COVID-19 has made us all shelter-at-home in relatively safe conditions as long as we meet with the guidelines and follow the rules meticulously. However, while we are staying indoors there is a big bunch of heroes boldly fighting this invisible foe without proper or adequate body armor. The whole country has been cheering them but they are still left helpless. (Here is the link once again https://tinyurl.com/wde7hqh) When this stay-at-home started, my son and a few friends formed a small non-profit Facebook group and decided to make face-shields for distribution among the medical community, EMT's, first-responders and nursing homes. The plan was to make face-shields using 3D printers and assemble and distribute where needed. I am attaching a few photos of what has been going on. This took off and we have distributed 2000+ face-shields so far (we lost count, may be a lot more than 2000) and we are going full speed. We have two 3D printers at home going at full speed 24 hours daily, each producing about 40 frames per day. In addition, we have 10 friends, also printing the same frames all of which reach my home for final assembly and distribution. We have shipped or delivered these face-shields as far as New York City, Long Island, and even California. Of course, the majority have gone to hospitals and locations in and around Philadelphia, neighboring Delaware, and New Jersey. Everything is free and we have received so many messages of appreciation. Here is the reason I am posting this. I know for sure every member of this group owns 3D printer(s). Every one of you has a hospital or a nursing home or a fire station nearby. The people working there are our heroes and they desperately need help and we can help. The transparent face-shield part is a OHP transparency plastic sheet that we buy at nearby Staples or Bestbuy store (a 3M make OHP film). You will need, in addition to a 3D printer, a regular 3-hole filing paper punch and just a pair of hands to assemble. Also, a bunch of volunteers to collect the names of the locations that need these face-shields as well as to drive around to distribute them as needed. The reward for your work will be a tremendous amount of satisfaction. Actually your work will result in several lives saved. Anyone interested may please look at this Swedish web site https://3dverkstan.se/protective-visor/. This link opens a page that gives you US as well as European versions with plenty of tips. What we make here are based on this design. A few photos and a short video are posted on my Google drive. Of course, needless to say that these face-shields do not have any not "approval" or such thing from any authority and we are doing it purely as a public service. In all cases, the users (medical professionals, first responders, nurses, and such people) have no other sources to obtain PPE's for protection. Covid-19 Face Shields 6 new photos added to shared album Prasad

Here are pictures of a counter weight I am fitting in my milling machine . I acquired a CNC mill that is similar to the one in the picture. For the Z axis movement the entire knee with the x and y axis have to move up and down. That is 280lbs that the little stepper motor have to lift . The previous owner blew 2 stepper drivers. After the first he did fit a gas spring to try and counter act the weight. It was under sized and they loose pressure over time. So I decided to rather fit a counter weight that move up and down in the column with a cable and 2 pulleys. I will have it running down 2 loose fitting rods to reduce the pendulum movement of the counter mass. I took what ever material I had in the workshop,an old driveshaft and some flanges. It will not be completely balanced but at least I removed 3/4 of the weight.

Looking for pulley and belt suggestions. I have 3.10Nm stepper with a 8mm shaft. My leadscrew is 3/4 - 8tpi. The stepper has been criticised as to small for that leadscrew and suggestion to use pulleys. So where do I find a pulley with a 3/4 bore and a matching (smaller) 8mm bore? Most 3/4 bore pulleys use a 4L V belt. I wonder if I could use some round urethane belting? A 5-6 mm round belt might run in a 4L grove. Ralph -- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

My husband purchased a CNC router for me for my birthday some years ago, so I've played with a CNC router for a while and can get it to do what I want it to do - so this was the sum of my experience. Once we agreed for me to spend the money on Aspire, the machine, software and me were finally able to communicate and work together, there are 3 axis on a CNC router... so next I thought I need a CNC lathe. I create 1/12th scale miniatures, and have an interest in carving Architectural components for our home, and making things as gifts, generally from wood. I have a Jet Mini wood lathe, and a couple of unimat DB/SLs, a Taig lathe and Taig Mill. I bought a circa 1990s Spectralight CNC Sherline Lathe from eBay and was incredibly confused by the mess of wires. I think these units were sold to schools - perhaps an introduction to digital machining? Our son and I discussed chasing down the board, but the technology was old, no guarantees that the board would work, so I purchased a kit to convert the Sherline to a Gecko 540 from deepgrove1 website. I got the steppers installed, but could not figure out how to bypass the safety switch on the cover and get the stop button to work. I called some local pros and explained my issue (they work on room size equipment) and asked for some help... I dropped it off on July 3, and got it back last week. Now, I am ready to do a test run for the CNC lathe, but I need to put a tool bit in my database, and I use router bits that are round. How do I use a round router bit in a tool post that is designed for square metal bits? I can imagine my conversation with Whiteside is not going to be an inexpensive conversation. Thanks - Tamra

Heated bed leveling. Prusa I3 type printers. Geeetech, Anet. A simple way to have consistent level beds.So very important in good bed adhesion. I did not like the 4 x corner adjusters with springs and screws and the use of a paper shim between glass and nozzle, IMHO opinion very "Heath Robinson" so I replaced with 4 x delrin risers individually accurately faced to the 4 corner heights. The DI checks parallelism across the whole of the glass by resting on the X axis rails.sliding along the rods, and also moving the Y axis front to back. Simple hook on hook off shoe. holding the DI. Dial Indicator.See photos. If a X axis parallel adjustment is required and very rarely the 2 x Z axis steppers connected to the Z axis screws can be moved a smidgen in disable mode to accommodate. Note one photo shows the glass bed frosted, I bead blasted one side of the glass, excellent for ABS filament bed adhesion. Use a standard clear Pyrex type glass for PLA. Hope of interest. -- John

Printed a lid and box for my involute cutters. Lid a nice snap fit onto the base. The lettering printed and filled in with a white marker pen. -- John

A few photos of a RELS control box. Lid and base 3 D printed. 2 variations of the lid. Wiring not completed. Took a few goes at using clear type PLA, it acts as perspex, and is very brittle. eventually I got there with zero fans on. Thinking without the creamy polymers of colour filament this could of been the problem All worked out in the end. I hope of interest. Stay well and at home. -- John

Parallel opening pliers. I used quite frequently for musical instrument repairs. Made by Sargent, New Haven, Conn. supplied solely by the only company I know Ferrees USA musical instrument repair tooling suppliers. The jaws close parallel as opposed to regular type pliers as shown in photo 1 of a typical duck bill type. Noses are made from cast iron and I drilled the noses and sides for pulling pivot pins out of saxophones. Also I made another set out of brass for pulling out and replacing needle springs in pivot posts. Jaws are adversely different. With just 2 hardened pins and nuts retaining the jaws this makes interchange easy. I need to make a few more blank sets of jaws, but a "back burner" job now as my musical instrument repairs are in a state of recession. Good say?s the wife, now you have time to fix and repair jobs around the house. But I truly believe that fresh paint and decorating supplies adversely effect ones and health well being. and I was not born with a 20 pocket holster of screwdrivers etc around my waist. Wives insist the painting is no good, you can see the brush marks, wallpaper is not square, you can see the joins, you are making a mess etc etc, so how many of us suffer the same fate, or am I alone. so why bother. We have got to keep some humour (humor) going in this very unprecedented time. Please please, Stay at home, and you will stay safe and god bless. -- John

New H/L mini lathe gears. Recently cut new aluminium H/L headstock gears, I replaced the nylon gears to steel some years ago, after breaking several sets, the steel worked OK but were very noisy. The new "ally" gears cut are a smidge larger in tooth contact to take up the back lash between teeth. Hope to strip the lathe down and fit gears when it gets warmer, to cold here to tinker at this moment. See photo, hope of interest. -- John

Attached a couple of photos of a LH digital vernier. Very useful when working on small machines, the scale projects toward the operator and not hitting the column of the machine. The only place i know where to purchase is Amadeal UK, but I am sure surfing the web, there must be other tool outlets. Hope of interest. -- John

Hi John and everyone, As you can see, I’ve just added a brute (12nm @ 6amps) of a stepper motor to my mill. The question that I have is what is the easiest / cheapest way of providing a digital drive to it ? I have the stepper motor driver for it, all (!) I need is the clever stuff. What I going to do for the moment (because I have the bits in my box) is to use a XR8038 chip to provide a variable frequency, and an old Schnieder baby PLC (Zelio) to handle the logic. I would like to be able to handle, backlash , use an encoder or similar to move the mill by small but accurate amounts, have different speeds left and right, mill to a point and return, etc, etc. All nice to have but who’s done what ? And how did it work. I suppose I could look at something PC based, I have a couple of old HP 7900 ultra slimline boxes that would work if they’re fast enough. So John D. And friends please what do you suggest ? Bob

I have my new Consew Brushless DC motor installed. And now my Encoder! Video, sorry about the volume. I am struggling to find some Arduino Rotary Encoder RPM code that actually works. I have found sketches that almost work, but are unstable, the rpm keeps changing. And a lot of code that just does not work. My encoder is set for 800 ppr (pulse Per Revolution). I will mount the encoder today. I know RELS would probable just work but I really am just looking for Motorized Z at the moment. Oh did you see I have a rough prototype mounting for my Z stepper motor. That needs a lot of work. I can feel the motor binding when I turn the leadscrew. Ralph -- Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer