Re: Stepper size for small dividing head?
#ESI
I think 80% is optimistic.? There is more torque when full stepping is used. ?I believe micro-stepping reduces the torque which is why the GECKO drives change over to full step after the resonance point is passed.? John ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Clark Panaccione via Groups.Io
Sent: February-07-20 7:28 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Stepper size for small dividing head? #ESI? Yes, measuring how much torque it actually takes is a good idea! I think the lowest speed on the Stark mill, which doesn¡¯t have a back gear, is around 200rpm, so a 20-tooth gear would have to turn 10rpm to keep up and with the 40:1 DH the stepper has to go 400rpm? According to the chart on the page I linked before the 111oz-in stepper torque¡¯s about 70% stall, or 80% max running torque at that speed - does that seem right? But I think a bigger worm gear would be better for that - this dividing head¡¯s the smallest one I have!
 Cutting cams like it shows here is another intriguing use of a DH, and would use its tilting capability, but at this point that¡¯s probably better done with cnc.
On Wed, Feb 5, 2020 at 08:12 AM, Richard wrote:
If you just need the stepper to rotate the D head the you can easily
check and see what actual torque is needed some sort of arm with a
weight on the end keep increasing the radius until it rotates the
calculate the oz in or Nm. If you intend rotating whilst cutting that
will obviously require more torque.
Hobbing on the mill is possible but not with your existing dividing
head. You will need to rotate the component much faster. Just think
about what speed you would like to run the cutter at then divide by the
gear ratio you are hobbing. Your stepper would be really spinning when
the component is driven at 40 to 1.
The 3" is not a problem I would have thought, just jack it up on
spacers. I have hobbed using Linux CNC and also built an interface to
allow hobbing without the computer just using an Arduino Mega and
putting an encoder on the spindle. Best option if you need to make a
worm and wheel.
To hob you? obviously need to be able to tilt the head!
Richard
On 05/02/2020 11:36, Clark Panaccione via Groups.Io wrote: Thanks, John - was that on the rotary table, or on your belt drive one?
This is the highest rated Nema 17 I found, 2.3a should work with the
little TB6560 driver recommended in the ¡°Arduino rotary table for
dummies¡± thread on homemodelenginemachinist.com:
?
Any insight on the control interface? It looks like yours had
pushbuttons arranged kind of joystick-like - is that for setting up as
well as operating? I thought maybe just a couple big buttons for left
and right, in addition to a keypad and display, would make it a little
simpler for me to run.
It would be interesting to rig up something like the RELS on my little
antique horizontal universal mill for hobbing but I think the 3¡± swing
on my dividing head is too small to worry about powering it for that.
Don¡¯t know how many true axes that would be, with the table running at
funny angles ; )
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 10:38 PM, John Lindo wrote:
I used a Nema 17 for many years, it worked vert well, changed to
Nema 23 during the full mill conversion to CNC , thus making it a
true 4th axis machine,
--
John
|
Re: Stepper size for small dividing head?
#ESI
Thanks, John,
?
Yes, measuring how much torque it actually takes is a good idea!
?
I think the lowest speed on the Stark mill, which doesn¡¯t have a back gear, is around 200rpm, so a 20-tooth gear would have to turn 10rpm to keep up and with the 40:1 DH the stepper has to go 400rpm? According to the chart on the page I linked before the 111oz-in stepper torque¡¯s about 70% stall, or 80% max running torque at that speed - does that seem right?
?
But I think a bigger worm gear would be better for that - this dividing head¡¯s the smallest one I have!  ?
Cutting cams like it shows here is another intriguing use of a DH, and would use its tilting capability, but at this point that¡¯s probably better done with cnc.
?
On Wed, Feb 5, 2020 at 08:12 AM, Richard wrote:
If you just need the stepper to rotate the D head the you can easily
check and see what actual torque is needed some sort of arm with a
weight on the end keep increasing the radius until it rotates the
calculate the oz in or Nm. If you intend rotating whilst cutting that
will obviously require more torque.
Hobbing on the mill is possible but not with your existing dividing
head. You will need to rotate the component much faster. Just think
about what speed you would like to run the cutter at then divide by the
gear ratio you are hobbing. Your stepper would be really spinning when
the component is driven at 40 to 1.
The 3" is not a problem I would have thought, just jack it up on
spacers. I have hobbed using Linux CNC and also built an interface to
allow hobbing without the computer just using an Arduino Mega and
putting an encoder on the spindle. Best option if you need to make a
worm and wheel.
To hob you? obviously need to be able to tilt the head!
Richard
On 05/02/2020 11:36, Clark Panaccione via Groups.Io wrote:
Thanks, John - was that on the rotary table, or on your belt drive one?
This is the highest rated Nema 17 I found, 2.3a should work with the
little TB6560 driver recommended in the ¡°Arduino rotary table for
dummies¡± thread on homemodelenginemachinist.com:
?
Any insight on the control interface? It looks like yours had
pushbuttons arranged kind of joystick-like - is that for setting up as
well as operating? I thought maybe just a couple big buttons for left
and right, in addition to a keypad and display, would make it a little
simpler for me to run.
It would be interesting to rig up something like the RELS on my little
antique horizontal universal mill for hobbing but I think the 3¡± swing
on my dividing head is too small to worry about powering it for that.
Don¡¯t know how many true axes that would be, with the table running at
funny angles ; )
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 10:38 PM, John Lindo wrote:
I used a Nema 17 for many years, it worked vert well, changed to
Nema 23 during the full mill conversion to CNC , thus making it a
true 4th axis machine,
--
John
|
New version of the DDCS v CNC controller.
Check out further info via Facebook DDCS .1. 2.1 3.1? contact Jessy Chen.
--
John
|
I use a ShuttleExpress on my CNC Router.? Love it.? Much easier to use than a pendant from China which I also have.? A friend has the larger Shuttle that has extra buttons.? Not sure all those would be needed on a lathe. ?
? John Dammeyer ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dale Grice
Sent: February-06-20 7:59 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] MPG & Mach4? New to CNC. I have a pokeys57 running a mini lathe. Took a while to get working. Now I would like to get away from a PC keyboard and mouse. I have been looking at many different MPGs. It seems that almost all work with Mach3 and not Mach4.
So I throw it out to the group. Any suggestions for a neophyte?
Thanks,
Dale Grice
|
New to CNC. I have a pokeys57 running a mini lathe. Took a while to get working. Now I would like to get away from a PC keyboard and mouse. I have been looking at many different MPGs. It seems that almost all work with Mach3 and not Mach4.
So I throw it out to the group. Any suggestions for a neophyte?
Thanks,
Dale Grice
|
Re: Suggestions for mounting stepper Z
#MODS
Thanks everyone for the help, it really works.
Richard my 12x36 lathe is undergoing a new motor mount so it is in pieces. I do have a 4x12 mini lathe, so I can work on that. The reversing lever will be where I was thinking of mounting a spindle encoder for my motorized X&Z project. But I have other ideas for the encoder also.
On Wed, Feb 5, 2020 at 4:35 AM Richard < edelec@...> wrote: All you are showing in your photo is the reversing lever for
change-wheel operation. I assume there were two gears on those two
nutted "rods" and the lever engaged one or the other with the gear on
the drive spindle. One of those gears would drive a change-wheel then
another maybe then the final wheel on the lead-screw. Thos change-wheels
were mounted on a pivoting arm, probably pivoting on that large diameter
to the right of the end of the lead-screw. If you have that arm then you
could mount your stepper on it, that is what I did on my machine a few
years ago and still running well.
However stay with your plate it looks easy to mount the stepper to. Just
ensure you have some adjustment for belt tension.
You indicated that you might have to bore pulleys on the mill. What is
wrong with the lathe?
Richard
On 04/02/2020 22:50, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
> Richard once again I do not know what you are referencing? "*just the
> reversing lever. Surely
> there is another part to the change wheel setup"*
> *
> *
> I mounted a 5x angle iron, looks like it should work nicely.
> DSCN7748.JPG
>
> On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 6:12 PM Richard <edelec@...
> <mailto:edelec@...>> wrote:
>
>? ? ?I am surprised that is all you have, just the reversing lever. Surely
>? ? ?there is another part to the change wheel setup? Maybe pivoting around
>? ? ?the leadscrew?
>? ? ?Richard
>
>? ? ?On 03/02/2020 14:42, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
>? ? ?> Here we are on the banjo end:
>? ? ?>
>? ? ?>
>? ? ?> Now I am looking for suggestions on how to mount the motor.
>? ? ?> This end seems friendlier to utilize I just need ideas for mounting
>? ? ?> the motor.
>? ? ?> Obviously I could add a pulley to the leadscrew.
>? ? ?> Mounting the motor on the bench top would work.
>? ? ?> I'd like to see mounting the motor on that 2" x 4" flat space to the
>? ? ?> left of the leadscrew.
>? ? ?> Everything I have pictured kinda hangs out there, not very firm
>? ? ?or pretty.
>? ? ?> I do have some 3x5 angle iron I could trim the 3" down.
>? ? ?>
>? ? ?> Ralph
>? ? ?> --
>? ? ?> Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta
>? ? ?drill
>? ? ?> press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non
>? ? ?working 3D
>? ? ?> printer
>? ? ?>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
> press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
> printer
>
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Re: Stepper size for small dividing head?
#ESI
Here's my video from almost 10 years ago.? The single button step distance was set to the amount to turn.?? I drilled and tapped a number of mounting plates and holders to match the size 23 stepper motors used on my mill.? The holes all lined up perfectly and the parts were all interchangeable.
? John Dammeyer ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Clark Panaccione via Groups.Io
Sent: February-05-20 3:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Stepper size for small dividing head? #ESI? Thanks, John - was that on the rotary table, or on your belt drive one? This is the highest rated Nema 17 I found, 2.3a should work with the little TB6560 driver recommended in the ¡°Arduino rotary table for dummies¡± thread on homemodelenginemachinist.com: Any insight on the control interface? It looks like yours had pushbuttons arranged kind of joystick-like - is that for setting up as well as operating? I thought maybe just a couple big buttons for left and right, in addition to a keypad and display, would make it a little simpler for me to run. It would be interesting to rig up something like the RELS on my little antique horizontal universal mill for hobbing but I think the 3¡± swing on my dividing head is too small to worry about powering it for that. Don¡¯t know how many true axes that would be, with the table running at funny angles ; )
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 10:38 PM, John Lindo wrote: I used a Nema 17 for many years, it worked vert well, changed to Nema 23 during the full mill conversion to CNC , thus making it a true 4th axis machine,
--
John
|
Re: Stepper size for small dividing head?
#ESI
For "gear ratio" below replace with "number of teeth"
Richard
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On 05/02/2020 16:12, Richard wrote: If you just need the stepper to rotate the D head the you can easily
check and see what actual torque is needed some sort of arm with a
weight on the end keep increasing the radius until it rotates the
calculate the oz in or Nm. If you intend rotating whilst cutting that
will obviously require more torque.
Hobbing on the mill is possible but not with your existing dividing
head. You will need to rotate the component much faster. Just think
about what speed you would like to run the cutter at then divide by the
gear ratio you are hobbing. Your stepper would be really spinning when
the component is driven at 40 to 1.
The 3" is not a problem I would have thought, just jack it up on
spacers. I have hobbed using Linux CNC and also built an interface to
allow hobbing without the computer just using an Arduino Mega and
putting an encoder on the spindle. Best option if you need to make a
worm and wheel.
To hob you? obviously need to be able to tilt the head!
Richard
On 05/02/2020 11:36, Clark Panaccione via Groups.Io wrote:
Thanks, John - was that on the rotary table, or on your belt drive one?
This is the highest rated Nema 17 I found, 2.3a should work with the
little TB6560 driver recommended in the ¡°Arduino rotary table for
dummies¡± thread on homemodelenginemachinist.com:
?
Any insight on the control interface? It looks like yours had
pushbuttons arranged kind of joystick-like - is that for setting up as
well as operating? I thought maybe just a couple big buttons for left
and right, in addition to a keypad and display, would make it a little
simpler for me to run.
It would be interesting to rig up something like the RELS on my little
antique horizontal universal mill for hobbing but I think the 3¡± swing
on my dividing head is too small to worry about powering it for that.
Don¡¯t know how many true axes that would be, with the table running at
funny angles ; )
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 10:38 PM, John Lindo wrote:
??? I used a Nema 17 for many years, it worked vert well, changed to
??? Nema 23 during the full mill conversion to CNC , thus making it a
??? true 4th axis machine,
??? --
??? John
|
Re: Stepper size for small dividing head?
#ESI
If you just need the stepper to rotate the D head the you can easily
check and see what actual torque is needed some sort of arm with a
weight on the end keep increasing the radius until it rotates the
calculate the oz in or Nm. If you intend rotating whilst cutting that
will obviously require more torque.
Hobbing on the mill is possible but not with your existing dividing
head. You will need to rotate the component much faster. Just think
about what speed you would like to run the cutter at then divide by the
gear ratio you are hobbing. Your stepper would be really spinning when
the component is driven at 40 to 1.
The 3" is not a problem I would have thought, just jack it up on
spacers. I have hobbed using Linux CNC and also built an interface to
allow hobbing without the computer just using an Arduino Mega and
putting an encoder on the spindle. Best option if you need to make a
worm and wheel.
To hob you? obviously need to be able to tilt the head!
Richard
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 05/02/2020 11:36, Clark Panaccione via Groups.Io wrote: Thanks, John - was that on the rotary table, or on your belt drive one?
This is the highest rated Nema 17 I found, 2.3a should work with the
little TB6560 driver recommended in the ¡°Arduino rotary table for
dummies¡± thread on homemodelenginemachinist.com:
?
Any insight on the control interface? It looks like yours had
pushbuttons arranged kind of joystick-like - is that for setting up as
well as operating? I thought maybe just a couple big buttons for left
and right, in addition to a keypad and display, would make it a little
simpler for me to run.
It would be interesting to rig up something like the RELS on my little
antique horizontal universal mill for hobbing but I think the 3¡± swing
on my dividing head is too small to worry about powering it for that.
Don¡¯t know how many true axes that would be, with the table running at
funny angles ; )
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 10:38 PM, John Lindo wrote:
I used a Nema 17 for many years, it worked vert well, changed to
Nema 23 during the full mill conversion to CNC , thus making it a
true 4th axis machine,
--
John
|
Re: Stepper size for small dividing head?
#ESI
Thanks, John - was that on the rotary table, or on your belt drive one?
?
This is the highest rated Nema 17 I found, 2.3a should work with the little TB6560 driver recommended in the ¡°Arduino rotary table for dummies¡± thread on homemodelenginemachinist.com:
?
?https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-stepper-motor/nema-17-bipolar-18deg-79ncm-111896ozin-23a-42x42x67mm-4-wires?mfp=147-holding-torque-oz-in%5B84%2C85%2C92%2C92.07%2C111.896%5D
?
https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/arduino-rotary-table-for-dummies.26744/
?
?
Any insight on the control interface? It looks like yours had pushbuttons arranged kind of joystick-like - is that for setting up as well as operating? I thought maybe just a couple big buttons for left and right, in addition to a keypad and display, would make it a little simpler for me to run.
?
?
It would be interesting to rig up something like the RELS on my little antique horizontal universal mill for hobbing but I think the 3¡± swing on my dividing head is too small to worry about powering it for that. Don¡¯t know how many true axes that would be, with the table running at funny angles ; )
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 10:38 PM, John Lindo wrote:
I used a Nema 17 for many years, it worked vert well, changed to Nema 23 during the full mill conversion to CNC , thus making it a true 4th axis machine,
--
John
|
Re: Suggestions for mounting stepper Z
#MODS
All you are showing in your photo is the reversing lever for
change-wheel operation. I assume there were two gears on those two
nutted "rods" and the lever engaged one or the other with the gear on
the drive spindle. One of those gears would drive a change-wheel then
another maybe then the final wheel on the lead-screw. Thos change-wheels
were mounted on a pivoting arm, probably pivoting on that large diameter
to the right of the end of the lead-screw. If you have that arm then you
could mount your stepper on it, that is what I did on my machine a few
years ago and still running well.
However stay with your plate it looks easy to mount the stepper to. Just
ensure you have some adjustment for belt tension.
You indicated that you might have to bore pulleys on the mill. What is
wrong with the lathe?
Richard
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Show quoted text
On 04/02/2020 22:50, Ralph Hulslander wrote: Richard once again I do not know what you are referencing? "*just the
reversing lever. Surely
there is another part to the change wheel setup"*
*
*
I mounted a 5x angle iron, looks like it should work nicely.
DSCN7748.JPG
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 6:12 PM Richard <edelec@...
<mailto:edelec@...>> wrote:
I am surprised that is all you have, just the reversing lever. Surely
there is another part to the change wheel setup? Maybe pivoting around
the leadscrew?
Richard
On 03/02/2020 14:42, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
> Here we are on the banjo end:
>
>
> Now I am looking for suggestions on how to mount the motor.
> This end seems friendlier to utilize I just need ideas for mounting
> the motor.
> Obviously I could add a pulley to the leadscrew.
> Mounting the motor on the bench top would work.
> I'd like to see mounting the motor on that 2" x 4" flat space to the
> left of the leadscrew.
> Everything I have pictured kinda hangs out there, not very firm
or pretty.
> I do have some 3x5 angle iron I could trim the 3" down.
>
> Ralph
> --
> Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta
drill
> press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non
working 3D
> printer
>
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
printer
|
Nice to be talking to you again ,Yes Arduino was not on my list in year 19 but has climbed to near the top of the list due to gear in my workshop namely Rotary mill table ,rotary welding head as well as rotary dividing setup each one neeeding fit out ,but I¡¯ll always be needing code that is compiled by experts as? at my stage of life coding is a secret language just like electronic design,assembly I¡¯m ok with provided parts come with distructions(instructions ) for component placement.I would¡¯nt know where to start with brd assy but if the boards were printed in the USA I¡¯m sure I might be able to put it together,just saying might. ? There we have it I hope some ¡±Qs¡± have been answered. ? ? Till next time ? ??????? Whoo Roo ???????????? ???????????????Barry ?? 45 Deg C in the water bag? as they? say ??wonderful invention the water bag ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of CLevinski
Sent: Sunday, 2 February 2020 1:44 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Back to work ,Constant surface Speed ? Hi, Barry,
Yes, that is an interesting setup, and it does lend itself to the addition of a simple CSS system.
But you originally said you wanted to avoid using an Arduino. It should be possible to implement some form of CSS using the Arduino and some additional sensors. But implementing the Arduino speed control requires some electronic design and assembly. Whether someone would consider it a major or minor project depends on the degree of expertise and available components, etc.
Do you want to go down that path? If so, do you have someone down there is Oz who can help with assembling the electronics needed??
--
Regards,
Charlie
New Jersey, USA LAW OF ANNOYANCE: When working on a project, if you put away a tool that you¡¯re certain you¡¯re finished with, you will need it instantly.
|
Re: Suggestions for mounting stepper Z
#MODS
If you want buttons to move the motor then this is one solution.? (He said with tongue in cheek).
? John ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: February-04-20 4:47 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Suggestions for mounting stepper Z #MODS?
I cut a 5x piece of angle iron and made up a base plate:?
It actually looks good, now I need to cut a slot to fasten the motor down and find some pulleys.
Then come up with? some buttons for motor control, so I also will need help with the programming.
Now where do I find belts and pulleys?
Ralph
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Re: Suggestions for mounting stepper Z
#MODS
I going to need some strange pulley arrangement. The stepper motor has a 8 mm (.315") shaft. The leadscrew has a 19.5mm (3/4") shaft.
Of course my big lathe is in pieces so I might be challenged if I need to bore a pulley but if I could get 2 matched blank pulleys I could bore them on my mill so boring is not out of the question.
So anyone have suggestions? Anyone know of blank pulleys?
Ralph
On Tue, Feb 4, 2020 at 7:46 PM Ralph Hulslander via Groups.Io <rhulslander= [email protected]> wrote:
I cut a 5x piece of angle iron and made up a base plate:?
It actually looks good, now I need to cut a slot to fasten the motor down and find some pulleys.
Then come up with? some buttons for motor control, so I also will need help with the programming.
Now where do I find belts and pulleys?
Ralph
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Re: Suggestions for mounting stepper Z
#MODS
I cut a 5x piece of angle iron and made up a base plate:?
It actually looks good, now I need to cut a slot to fasten the motor down and find some pulleys.
Then come up with? some buttons for motor control, so I also will need help with the programming.
Now where do I find belts and pulleys?
Ralph
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Re: Suggestions for mounting stepper Z
#MODS
Richard once again I do not know what you are referencing? "
just the reversing lever. Surely
there is another part to the change wheel setup"
I mounted a 5x angle iron, looks like it should work nicely.
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 6:12 PM Richard < edelec@...> wrote: I am surprised that is all you have, just the reversing lever. Surely
there is another part to the change wheel setup? Maybe pivoting around
the leadscrew?
Richard
On 03/02/2020 14:42, Ralph Hulslander wrote:
> Here we are on the banjo end:
>
>
> Now I am looking for suggestions on how to mount the motor.
> This end seems friendlier to utilize I just need ideas for mounting
> the motor.
> Obviously I could add a pulley to the leadscrew.
> Mounting the motor on the bench top would work.
> I'd like to see mounting the motor on that 2" x 4" flat space to the
> left of the leadscrew.
> Everything I have pictured kinda hangs out there, not very firm or pretty.
> I do have some 3x5 angle iron I could trim the 3" down.
>
> Ralph
> --
> Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
> press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
> printer
>
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
Re: Stepper size for small dividing head?
#ESI
I used a Nema 17 for many years, it worked vert well, changed to Nema 23 during the full mill conversion to CNC , thus making it a true 4th axis machine,
--
John
|
Re: Suggestions for mounting stepper Z
#MODS
I am surprised that is all you have, just the reversing lever. Surely
there is another part to the change wheel setup? Maybe pivoting around
the leadscrew?
Richard
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 03/02/2020 14:42, Ralph Hulslander wrote: Here we are on the banjo end:
Now I am looking for suggestions on how to mount the motor.
This end seems friendlier to utilize I just need ideas for mounting
the motor.
Obviously I could add a pulley to the leadscrew.
Mounting the motor on the bench top would work.
I'd like to see mounting the motor on that 2" x 4" flat space to the
left of the leadscrew.
Everything I have pictured kinda hangs out there, not very firm or pretty.
I do have some 3x5 angle iron I could trim the 3" down.
Ralph
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill
press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D
printer
|
Re: Suggestions for mounting stepper Z
#MODS
Thanks John, that's what I was looking for good solid working ideas. Of?course Norton did not like the script embedded?in your file I figured out how to override?Norton.
Ralph
On Mon, Feb 3, 2020 at 12:23 PM John Dammeyer < johnd@...> wrote: I take it that section that is on the lead screw pointing forward can be pivoted up or towards the back? If so do that and then make a plate between it and the reverse/forward pivot and clamp it down.? This will be perpendicular to the lead screw axis.? Make the plate large enough to hold the motor which is mounted on stand-offs.? Pulley on motor and leadscrew and you are done. ? I've attached an adobe 3D PDF of my Gingery X axis motor mount so you can look at it from all angles and here it is mounted.? In my case I cast it to include the stand offs but you can turn 4 posts to length. 
? ? Here we are on the banjo end:
Now I am looking for suggestions on how to mount the motor.
This end seems friendlier to utilize I just need ideas for mounting the motor.
Obviously I could add a pulley to the leadscrew.
Mounting the motor on the bench top would work.
I'd like to see mounting the motor on that 2" x 4" flat space to the left of the leadscrew.
Everything I have pictured kinda hangs out there, not very firm or pretty.
I do have some 3x5 angle iron I could trim the 3" down.
Ralph
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
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Re: Suggestions for mounting stepper Z
#MODS
I take it that section that is on the lead screw pointing forward can be pivoted up or towards the back? If so do that and then make a plate between it and the reverse/forward pivot and clamp it down.? This will be perpendicular to the lead screw axis.? Make the plate large enough to hold the motor which is mounted on stand-offs.? Pulley on motor and leadscrew and you are done. ? I've attached an adobe 3D PDF of my Gingery X axis motor mount so you can look at it from all angles and here it is mounted.? In my case I cast it to include the stand offs but you can turn 4 posts to length. 
?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ralph Hulslander
Sent: February-03-20 6:42 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [digitalhobbyist] Suggestions for mounting stepper Z #MODS? Here we are on the banjo end:
Now I am looking for suggestions on how to mount the motor.
This end seems friendlier to utilize I just need ideas for mounting the motor.
Obviously I could add a pulley to the leadscrew.
Mounting the motor on the bench top would work.
I'd like to see mounting the motor on that 2" x 4" flat space to the left of the leadscrew.
Everything I have pictured kinda hangs out there, not very firm or pretty.
I do have some 3x5 angle iron I could trim the 3" down.
Ralph
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer
|
John Lindo
