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Re: Arduino tachometer #Tachometers_Encoders

 

Forgot to say, added in the Files section ref RELS data.
See schematic for installing.
Also you may need the Adafruit files loaded in the Arduino sketch.
I have attached the ZIP?s
Hope this helps



Cheers

John

On Sat, 10 Feb 2024 at 05:47, John Lindo via <bechetboat=[email protected]> wrote:
I have added an Arduino file Tach.ino?
I hope this helps?
This is used in my RELS. Also see the schematics for wiring in.
Cheers
--
John


--
John


RELS #RELS

 

Forgot to add I installed this type

Hope this helps.
--
John


Re: Arduino tachometer #Tachometers_Encoders

 

I have added an Arduino file Tach.ino?
I hope this helps?
This is used in my RELS. Also see the schematics for wiring in.
Cheers
--
John


Re: Arduino tachometer #Tachometers_Encoders

 

I need some 4 pin encoder code for a 1000 line encoder.

Most of the code for RPM I have found online does not work.

I do have some Arduino code that "almost" works, but it is not accurate.

Ralph

On Fri, Feb 9, 2024 at 3:47?PM Jerry Trantow <jerry.trantow@...> wrote:
I have implemented several tachometers in software but haven't implemented an arduino tach. I have installed several of the $15-$20 tach (RC-41) modules which are very simple to install if you just need a quick RPM display. I've been using one on my lathe spindle for a few years. I recently added a feedback loop for the spindle VFD and noticed the module speed is off by maybe 10-20% under 100RPM but gets better at higher speeds.

Coding a tachometer can be a bit tricky if you require accuracy. It all depends on how many pulses you get per revolution and how fast it's spinning. One method is to count the period between tach pulses to calculate frequency/RPM. You use a timer interrupt that captures a high?resolution timer on the pulse. You need a little bit of logic to detect slow speeds which can wrap your timer. Usually you will low-pass filter these values to smooth out the RPM value. Some automotive tachometers/software use a multiple teeth system with?a missing tooth to provide multiple position and velocity estimates per revolution.

My lathe uses a 240 pulse per revolution disk (60 teeth with quadrature pulses) for threading. LinuxCNC supports missing tooth encoders so I could remove a tooth and get absolute positioning (within 1.5 degrees) The software provides an instantaneous RPM that I low pass filter before display so it doesn't jump around.
The lathe also has the RC-41 display with a 1 pulse per rev sensor that I used to set the spindle RPM when I was using a potentiometer to control the VFD.
Recently, I removed the pot and control the VFD with linuxCNC. This is when I noticed the RC-41 wasn't very accurate <100RPM.


On Fri, Feb 9, 2024 at 1:57?PM mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
hey folks have any of ya made a tachometer using a Arduino ? I tried
some I found online but most of them seem to have something wrong with
the code? I'm not smart enough in the Arduino world to decipher the code
. What are you folks using ? I don't want to buy just a tachometer? from
China . I need to get one working in the Arduino platform for part of a
project I've got going .

thanks

animal







--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer


Re: Arduino tachometer #Tachometers_Encoders

Jerry Trantow
 

I have implemented several tachometers in software but haven't implemented an arduino tach. I have installed several of the $15-$20 tach (RC-41) modules which are very simple to install if you just need a quick RPM display. I've been using one on my lathe spindle for a few years. I recently added a feedback loop for the spindle VFD and noticed the module speed is off by maybe 10-20% under 100RPM but gets better at higher speeds.

Coding a tachometer can be a bit tricky if you require accuracy. It all depends on how many pulses you get per revolution and how fast it's spinning. One method is to count the period between tach pulses to calculate frequency/RPM. You use a timer interrupt that captures a high?resolution timer on the pulse. You need a little bit of logic to detect slow speeds which can wrap your timer. Usually you will low-pass filter these values to smooth out the RPM value. Some automotive tachometers/software use a multiple teeth system with?a missing tooth to provide multiple position and velocity estimates per revolution.

My lathe uses a 240 pulse per revolution disk (60 teeth with quadrature pulses) for threading. LinuxCNC supports missing tooth encoders so I could remove a tooth and get absolute positioning (within 1.5 degrees) The software provides an instantaneous RPM that I low pass filter before display so it doesn't jump around.
The lathe also has the RC-41 display with a 1 pulse per rev sensor that I used to set the spindle RPM when I was using a potentiometer to control the VFD.
Recently, I removed the pot and control the VFD with linuxCNC. This is when I noticed the RC-41 wasn't very accurate <100RPM.


On Fri, Feb 9, 2024 at 1:57?PM mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
hey folks have any of ya made a tachometer using a Arduino ? I tried
some I found online but most of them seem to have something wrong with
the code? I'm not smart enough in the Arduino world to decipher the code
. What are you folks using ? I don't want to buy just a tachometer? from
China . I need to get one working in the Arduino platform for part of a
project I've got going .

thanks

animal







Arduino tachometer #Tachometers_Encoders

 

hey folks have any of ya made a tachometer using a Arduino ? I tried
some I found online but most of them seem to have something wrong with
the code? I'm not smart enough in the Arduino world to decipher the code
. What are you folks using ? I don't want to buy just a tachometer? from
China . I need to get one working in the Arduino platform for part of a
project I've got going .

thanks

animal


Re: #3D #3D

 

开云体育

animal

On 2/9/24 8:37 AM, CLevinski wrote:

John,

Very interesting. Hopefully, the U.S. will follow suit. Though I doubt it.

Cheers,
Charlie


-------- Original message --------
From: John Lindo <bechetboat@...>
Date: 2/8/24 11:21 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] #3D

This just appeared on my emails.
Hope of interest to 3D printing members



Cheers
--
John
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

NOTE: No trees were injured in the sending of this message,

but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.


Re: #3D #3D

 

开云体育

John,

Very interesting. Hopefully, the U.S. will follow suit. Though I doubt it.

Cheers,
Charlie


-------- Original message --------
From: John Lindo <bechetboat@...>
Date: 2/8/24 11:21 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [digitalhobbyist] #3D

This just appeared on my emails.
Hope of interest to 3D printing members



Cheers
--
John
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

NOTE: No trees were injured in the sending of this message,

but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.


#RELS Screwcutting #RELS

 

Found this video in my archives
Screw cutting a 12 mm x 1mmm LH thread.
Cross slide set so as the it moves well out off the part to gauge the size of the thread with a nut.
Thread size pitch is not normal for a standard metric ,
Hope of interest?
--
John


#3D #3D

 

This just appeared on my emails.
Hope of interest to 3D printing members



Cheers
--
John


Re: #3D #3D

 

Hi Ron.
So sorry to read about your 3D problems.
You are not alone in your Creality after service?? woes LOL
I have a next?town down friend Eduardo who had the same service problems and he had to deal without success by emailing?China, As Eduardo does not speak Chinese LOL or any English, I tried to wade in, but had no success. His problem was the extruder working overtime, I think this was caused by the spool holder in the wrong position, it seemed to be initially set up parallel in line with the bed and not hanging?vertically above the extruder. Anyway, with some wire clothes hangers etc we got there and he is OK now, but inconsistent prints of poor quality, even printing with layers down to 0.2 mm.
With a consistent problem then you can zoom in on a fault, with inconsistency?then pretty much to lap the Gods to know if you have a fix.
As a newbie some 7 years now, I have found that Geeetech (and no endorsements) have given me?
excellent service, excellent in answering questions, etc etc, and you pay for what you get.
Just bought a second?Mizar (shipped from Geeetech Germany)? DHL 3 days?shipping , the total price was about $245.
Geetech have slashed their prices, there seems to be a stagnanting Chinese financial crisis, Oh well.?
Good for me LOL.
Cheers

John

On Thu, 8 Feb 2024 at 12:53, Ron Y <ryulick@...> wrote:
I have the CR?6-SE that I purchased back when on Kickstarter. It actually worked fine for about a month then just kept having issues with the bed, adhesion, print head crashing, etc.? Contacted their support who finally told me to send it back and when I tried to I got crickets. They even lied to me about parts and wanted me to buy a complete assembly vs fixing a single component. They claimed the component was not for sale and could only be installed in their much more expensive assembly. When I sent them their own service video on the individual part, I got a lot of deflection and silence. Their customer service is basically non-existent (I condensed the whole scenario for brevity). I have gotten at least a dozen sales cancelled for their printers from folks who went elsewhere when I showed them my proof and my situation. I really can't stand being lied to, especially when it is my money they are taking.


--
John


Re: #3D #3D

 

I have the CR?6-SE that I purchased back when on Kickstarter. It actually worked fine for about a month then just kept having issues with the bed, adhesion, print head crashing, etc.? Contacted their support who finally told me to send it back and when I tried to I got crickets. They even lied to me about parts and wanted me to buy a complete assembly vs fixing a single component. They claimed the component was not for sale and could only be installed in their much more expensive assembly. When I sent them their own service video on the individual part, I got a lot of deflection and silence. Their customer service is basically non-existent (I condensed the whole scenario for brevity). I have gotten at least a dozen sales cancelled for their printers from folks who went elsewhere when I showed them my proof and my situation. I really can't stand being lied to, especially when it is my money they are taking.


Re: #3D #3D

 

Thanks Julian, I will let you know how the vise turns out.
I think it will be strong enough to grip the odd wooden block for
drilling or hand planning a few bits and bobs.
Attached 2 photos?of my first?print off the Mizar using a Geetech?test STL supplied.
Quite impressed, and for the price of these budget printers, IMHO well made, well designed, user friendly.
I have not tried anything else but PLA at this moment.
The vise was printed off the Prusa clone I3 using carbon filled filament, the nozzles wear out quickly, but the strength of carbon filled is about double the normal toy stuff PLA,
Cheers
John

On Wed, 7 Feb 2024 at 19:48, Julian <julian@...> wrote:
Love the cartoon characters. Often print novelties for the Grand Kids.? Last effort was a pair of very loud whistles each with their names embossed on them.? My daughter seems to be dead against me doing this, but the kids love them ... drum kit next!

Be very interested in seeing the fractal vice completed and to hear how it works.


--
John


Re: #3D #3D

 

Love the cartoon characters. Often print novelties for the Grand Kids.? Last effort was a pair of very loud whistles each with their names embossed on them.? My daughter seems to be dead against me doing this, but the kids love them ... drum kit next!

Be very interested in seeing the fractal vice completed and to hear how it works.


Re: #3D #3D

 

Julian
What a real nice looking machine, well done.
John

On Wed, 7 Feb 2024 at 17:38, Ralph Hulslander <rhulslander@...> wrote:
Thanks Julian, I looked at the.

I am impressed, my 3D printer was the first to be advertised?for <$200.00 and it was cheap.

One of these days.....

Ralph

On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 5:23?AM Julian <julian@...> wrote:
Nice bit of modeling there, John.? Bet they took a while to print with those big flat areas.

Just treated myself to a Bambu x1 carbon.? Boy is it fast, you often can't see the print head move, it's just a blur.? There are two speed levels faster than the standard speed but I haven't dared try them yet!
Very nice printer if you are looking to upgrade.


--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer


--
John


Re: #3D #3D

 

Forgot to add, in the Silvester photo it includes in the backdrop one of my house cats, and by pure coincidence he was on the table at the same time.
A beautiful cat, but curiosity will definitely be the end of him, LOL
Cheers


--
John


Re: #3D #3D

 

Thanks Julian and guys.
I have always for past 7 years been a Geetech fan, bought my first Prusa clone I3 some 6 years ago and another 4 years ago.?
never failed me, except for a few bits and pieces, which fortunately are available almost over the border from me in Germany, Geetechs have a hub there.
Built a few electronic Arduino upgrades to control fan speeds, but the original Sanguinolou control board is still working Ok,?
thank goodness as they re now impossible to find or even purchase.
With a bit of good fortune, I sold one of my printers and have a Geeetech Mizar S. The extra 25% of bed volume of 255 mm x 255 mm x 260 mm compared to the i3 suits me and?
this machine fits nicely into my very cramped workshop.
From the original Geeetech clone Prusa to the Mizar S, is again like chalk and cheese. Automatic bed levelling is so easy and the magnetic bed plate
means no more hair spray and first level adhesion problems. Early days yet, but as you say I am a happy camper.
I recently read an article from All3DP that Bambu are doing a printer recall, what is the real facts do you know.?
Attached a couple of photos of toys I produced for my neighbours kids Xmas gifts.
Sylvester and of course Tweety pie
Working on the Fractural vice currently see photo and seems to be going very well. All the above items mentioned were all download STL files from Prusa pintables.
I normally design my own parts and print. But the toys land vice look and work so well, so cheating on the odd STL downloads can?t go amiss.
The photo of the Fractural vice, not complete as I am waiting on more 3 mm cap head screws, they have to various but specific lengths and you need a zillion of them. But all 3D printing done is done .
Cheers for now

?f


--
John


Re: #3D #3D

 

Thanks Julian, I looked at the.

I am impressed, my 3D printer was the first to be advertised?for <$200.00 and it was cheap.

One of these days.....

Ralph

On Wed, Feb 7, 2024 at 5:23?AM Julian <julian@...> wrote:
Nice bit of modeling there, John.? Bet they took a while to print with those big flat areas.

Just treated myself to a Bambu x1 carbon.? Boy is it fast, you often can't see the print head move, it's just a blur.? There are two speed levels faster than the standard speed but I haven't dared try them yet!
Very nice printer if you are looking to upgrade.


--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer


Re: #3D #3D

 
Edited

Hi Ron,
Yes very happy.? It was the combo that I bought.
The AMS saves a lot of messing about and stores the filament in a nice dry atmosphere.
Just a shame it won't handle TPU.

I built a mendal i2 circa 10 years ago when hobby printing was in its infancy and its served me well, but compared to what modern printers can produce it's chalk and cheese.? That said I think a few upgrades on the old printer will have it back to producing respectable results.? I used a VERY early version of Cura with the old printer, but I reckon a large part of the quality these days comes from the slicer.? The Bambu slicer (supposed to be a spin off of Prusa slicer) is by no means perfect but level of fine tuning available is truly mind blowing.? There is a spin off of BB slicer called Orca that may people swear by but I struggle to see much difference between the two ... perhaps I haven't dived deep enough into both yet.

What were the problems you were having with the Creality printer?


Re: #3D #3D

 

Are you happy with the Bambu Carbon x1 so far? I am looking to purchase the combo before my next back surgery next month so I have something to do during recovery. I will never buy another Creality product ever again.
Thanks?
Ron