Richard,

I already have a better hand wheel... see photos. I have not used the compound since installing RELS, but still have it and the compound hand wheel for future possibilities.

The trouble with a pin is that it makes it more problematic to remove the handcrank. (I know because that's how I installed my X-axis lead screw extension. Removing it is a MAJOR PITA.) There are other options... key, set screw, double set screws, solid pin that is held in by threads at its end, etc. I would have to double-check, but I think I changed the lead screw extension to a long set screw last time I had it apart. But I still have the ridiculous arrangement with the hand wheel mounting. Who thought it would be a good idea to rely on a friction fit with an axial screw?!?!


--??

Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

There they go!
I must hasten and follow after them
for I am their leader!

Richard is correct in all regards in his post. (Thank you for replying, Richard... the time difference sometimes makes my replies appear late!)

I would definitely go with the digital keypad. I had the analog setup originally, and was unhappy as it was unreliable. I kept the same physical keypad but rewired it for digital operation. The difference is very noticeable... so much so that we changed the schematic and sketch to show only the digital option.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

There they go!
I must hasten and follow after them
for I am their leader!

I think would remove the holding screw then just drill through the knob
and shaft for a 1mm or 1/16" spring pin (scroll pin). Actually it would
make sense to make a better "handle" first. One designed to not take the
skin off your knuckles!

Richard

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Maybe I can answer some of the questions, Charlie is running a modified V6
Interspersed

Charlie are you running the RELS v6 or v7 version? - my next items are to start to put the mega circuits together - and 6 is wired differently then 7 - I'm a little confused on the encoder wiring for v7 as it looks like the LM293 feeds into the spindle encoder and that has me confused...?

I think that you will find that this circuitry relates to the use of an old ex printer encoder disk and reader which puts out something like a sine wave. The LM293 turns the sine wave into edges. I would suggest that you stay with the original Ver 6 option of a standard A-B encoder driving into the 7486 then to inputs 20, 21, and 47 as it works well.

on version 6 - the code I have doesn't match the wiring diagram as the codes only using one analog (looking at ohms) but the drawing has each button to a different analog pin (used as digital) - so that has me concerned about other things not matching up - not sure why they don't match up - guess that's what you get from the internet...

Ver 6 software used the "LCD keypad" option feeding one analogue input. This works but is a bit "iffy" I modified my software to use 5 discrete digital inputs before I saw Ver 7. The use of the digital inputs is far superior particularly if you go on to add any further options. If you need any further help on a change let me know.

I already have a 74LS86 for the v6 - and has I don't understand the v7 encoder - I guess I'll move in the 6v direction plus that's the one that the code has been translated ....

I would it works well. If you change the pins used on the 7486 to 123 and 456 (obviously retaining the functions) it is easy to use a 9pin SIL 1K resistor network for a tidier build. BTW I only used 1K pull ups on the encoder network. On all other inputs I just used the programmed internal 20K-50K pull ups, and had no problems

I should have all the electronic parts for v6 except for position switches and illuminated switches for the limits.

When you say position switches do you mean the Joystick?

One issue is that I mistakenly ordered the 1024 encoder and not the 1800.

You will find that version 6 is a good bit of software and will probably do all you want. I felt there were some issues which I dealt with. The fact that it can Thread, Auto Thread, Feed, Taper and Divide makes it stand out amongst some of the other offerings.
Good luck, if you have any more questions feel free.

Richard

6 years ago I was asked if I could cut different types and colours of glass beer and wine bottles.
I friend that now passed onto the great vineyard in the sky was building an outdoor bar and had the idea to?
build a support wall using ends of bottles with cement between them.
Never say "NO" and after a few trials and tribulations and enjoying the emptying the full bottles LOL, as I eventually
over a period of 4 months cut at least 250 bottles I came up with this concept.
Pictures always better than words.

I used a standard carbide wheel glass cutter held in a swinging tool holder.

Ah what is a swinging tool holder you may ask.

A tool holder I designed and made primarily for screw-cutting.
Principle being that the cutting forces on the threading tool in the normal anti clockwise kept the tool forced down?
accurately to a base plate in the tool construction, upon returning the saddle to start another cut, it was just a simple case of reversing the spindle direction?
and the tool would "swing" up, the underside of the tool would clean the thread and importantly there was no need
to wind the compound or cross slide out to clear the thread.?
I made 2 versions for external and Internal threading.
If any interest I will go into more details at a later date.
Next subject at a later date will be the use of soft jaws, and the manufacture of see photos holding the base ends of the bottles.
Next a revolving center in the tailstock.
Because bottles are not 100% concentric, these were just nipped in the soft jaws.
The lathe spindle ran clockwise and with a little hand pressure on the top of the swinging tool holder the cutter was pushed down onto the glass, any eccentricity of the glass?would lift the cutter in a upwards direction, and?achieved a full score mark around the total circumference of the bottle. see photo.

By running in a clockwise direction it was impossible for the cutter to dig in a non concentric surface.
Job done, taken out the lathe and then the bottle was immersed into boiling water just past the score line for 10 seconds , immediately?
dunked into a bucket of ice water.
The bottles broke exactly around the score line leaving very little ragged edge.
see photos.
I? will attempt go into deeper depth with the swinging tool holder and soft jaws manufacture.

The tool holder is with a friend in Australia now, I no longer need for screw cutting as I adopt the auto screw cutting module of the RELS.

PS to Charlie

I cannot post and so I do not subscribe to the 7 x mini lathe group,?
Sorry the? 7 x forum is just not my scene. We do not have to many "know it all armchair engineers" on this forum, thank goodness.
but members that discuss issues and do what they say they are going to do.

An old friend always said, don?t kick the can down the street, but make the tooling that makes the can.

Hope of interest.










--
John

Charlie are you running the RELS v6 or v7 version? - my next items are to start to put the mega circuits together - and 6 is wired differently then 7 - I'm a little confused on the encoder wiring for v7 as it looks like the LM293 feeds into the spindle encoder and that has me confused...?


on version 6 - the code I have doesn't match the wiring diagram as the codes only using one analog (looking at ohms) but the drawing has each button to a different analog pin (used as digital) - so that has me concerned about other things not matching up - not sure why they don't match up - guess that's what you get from the internet...

I already have a 74LS86 for the v6 - and has I don't understand the v7 encoder - I guess I'll move in the 6v direction plus that's the one that the code has been translated ....

I should have all the electronic parts for v6 except for position switches and illuminated switches for the limits.

One issue is that I mistakenly ordered the 1024 encoder and not the 1800.

P,

I have not keyed mine yet but plan to do so next time I have it apart. With my current RELS setup, the Rapid motion was so fast that it would sometimes unscrew the handcrank that I made to replace the original. I had to reduce the speed to compensate.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

There they go!
I must hasten and follow after them
for I am their leader!

So have something working for the x axis - I 3D printed a new cross slide retainer with a nema 17 bracket.?

Have a few questions?
has anyone keyed the cross slide shaft - the existing thrust retention system sucks on this lathe. But adding a key I would be concerned about the dial if I took it back to manual.

cable routing and retaining so the cables don’t bind with the saddle Movements

Hi, John L.,

I noticed that there is a discussion on the 7 x 12 group about cutting bottles on a mini-lathe. I recall that you had done something very similar a few years ago. You emailed me photos of the procedure (and the finished result; I think it was a piece of wall art with multiple beer bottle bottoms) and a description of the process at the time. Do you still have those? It would be interesting to see your setup again, and might be helpful to the original poster.
--
Regards,

Charlie
New Jersey, USA

There IS no cloud!? It's just someone else's computer.

I was just reading the code wrong.
The interrupt mode is set to "1" which is "any edge" = pin change, meaning interrupt triggers twice per pulse, hence the x2 processing mode.
The interrupt handler seems relatively simple, it reads the current value of both encoder channels to figure out which way the spindle is going.
I don't really see why the previous version needed the XOR gate, perhaps the latest code is somehow clever and didn't come to the author's mind originally?

Thanks for sharing John.?

I thought about that end - but figured I would start with what I have - without waiting for parts and/or having to do a lot of machining if I can’t get the electronics working. I had downloaded the RELS back in February from the files section here - before they where removed - so hopefully I can get that to work without having to use google to translate Russian the original one form the ru website. I also have the Italian Arduino version as well. It’s not the same as the Russian one - at least I don’t think it is as I believe it calls for uno and not a mega plus it looks for a different pulse count - but honestly having really haven’t really looked at that part yet.

Looks like the latest version doesn't use the XOR gate, everything done in software.

Although looking at the source code (Digital_Feed_7e2), for the life of me I can't understand how the INT0 interrupt handler works. The interrupt seems to be set to be triggered when one of the encoder channels (pin 21) is LOW, which is quite unusual as the handler will keep getting triggered unless the interrupt is disabled. Either I'm reading the code wrong, or missing something (the moment where the interrupt handler is disabled). Hopefully someone can explain this :)

The sets of NEEDLE THRUST WASHERS? are 4 mm thick and not 2 mm thick.
need to machine 4 mm off each side of the plummer (support) block.

--
John

Nicely done, thanks for sharing.
From the photos the lathe looks like a Real Bull type and not a Sieg.
Video worked OK.
I opted to direct drive from the RH side of the Z axis screw, with a stepper mounting plate fixed to the end of the bed at 90 degrees.
Used an Oldham (flexible) coupling and turned up a "lining" up tool for alignment before eventually mounting the Nema 23.
Also fitted needle thrust bearings either side of the "plummer" block to adjust for excess end float the Z axis screw.
Each set of bearings are 2 mm thick, so it needs 2 mm machining off each side of the plummer block to allow for the extra 4 mm thickness.
The Real Bull lathes also have an adjustable back lash nut which the stepper Oldham coupling attaches to. I believe the Siegs do not.

My choice of RH mounting the Z axis stepper allowed for fitting the original plastic gear cover without any mods.
and less "clutter" for me space wise as I fitted a gear reduction 2:1 from the original motor to the layshaft.
See attached photos
Hope of interest.
--
John

7x12

--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

Yes it’s 1:1 right now.
and I likely just got in my head that attaching it to the banjo was the way to go over a direct connection?

shaft alignment-didn’t want to deal with a coupler - able to gear it up or down

Used a different program "File Viewer" and now I see it.

Why did you use a gear on Z ? Couldn't you just mount the motor directly? It looks like you have 1:1
I ask because I am slowly in the process of mounting my Z motor and I was intending to mount it right on the leadscrew no gears.
Ralph
--
Clausing 8520, Craftsman 12x36 Lathe, 4x12 mini lathe, 14" Delta drill press, 40 watt laser, Consew brushless DC motors and a non working 3D printer

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VLC plays it for me without problems
Richard