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Having recuperate sufficiently I have boxed up this item for shipment. All I need is the original responders address for mailing. Please reply off line as I have lost the Email address. Sorry, Bill in Boulder

I have a couple of concerns about the reassembly of my mill. If I tighten the 3 bolts (on a side) that hold the MI-41 plates that clamp the knee to the mill body when tightened, the knee will not move. I assume that means I am undersimmed and need more shims. Is that correct? Also, I wonder about the thrust washer that is referenced as part of the MI-83 thrust bearing for the new lift screw. Mine do not have any races and are flat. That is not what I would have expected. Any comments? Also, when I did have it together, and the knee's clamp bolts only tightened to the point where the knees could move freely, I found the effort to raise the table a bit much. I'm guessing this will be very hard to qualify in a text. However, can anyone shed any light on what an acceptable amount of effort to raise the knee? Thanks Rick.

this popped up after a tube I was watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRuKKchj7sk

I'd want to put a box of some sort around that, as one little piece of swarf could make things way too exciting! If you're turning at slow speeds, and let it stop before you switch directions, it should work OK. I would like to put some sort of setscrew with a brass foot to jam the chuck myself. I'm getting hmmm, shall we say a little less likely to recognize when I'm doing something maybe a bit less than wise these days. I'm retired, but apparently spending too much time sleep deprived and requiring way more caffeine to compensate these days. I do have some vivid memories of striking sparks with electrical equipment, but haven't managed to spin a chuck off yet. And don't want to! Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. SEMPER GUMBY! Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome. Physics doesn't care about your schedule. The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better. Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first. On Monday, January 1, 2024 at 07:09:01 PM CST, Bill Pendergrass <rzbill@...> wrote: My 10" lathe drive is stock orig equip. I've been thinking about a reverse switch install for a long time. Nothing going on today, I knew I had a lightly used DPDT toggle that could carrry the current so i did some digging into the motor plus the various schematic files on this site. Success. Easier than I expected. The on/off switch on the front of the lathe is still in the circuit and still does its job. I know the arguments about spinning the chuck off so no reason to rehash. I'll make a safety device if i become concerned about it. I've got some threading to a shoulder work coming so I want to do it the Joe Pie way. In reverse.

The drive coupler, which when engaged locks the spindle pulley to the spindle and when disengaged free it so the back gear can be engaged. When operating, particularly at the higher speeds, the drive coupler is disengaging. Mostly happens when there is a bit of load applied (see attached video or view it on Vimeo), but it does happen without there being any load. I searched the historical postings and really only found one thread mentioning this issue (07-10-2006). Cleaning of the retaining ball detent was mentioned as was the possibility that the dog teeth had become worn, but it was not clear that any fix was found. I have disassembled and cleaned the coupler, spring and ball detents and it is still disengaging. I have not looked at the dog teeth to see what condition they are in. I did do a weld-up repair of worn dog teeth on a Rivett 1020 helical bevel gears (they didn't remain engaged either) but these were well exposed and easy to both weld more material on and mill them square again. The comment in the earlier post said the MK2 dog teeth are recessed, so I'm not sure a similar repair could be done (need to take a look to even see if this could be the problem). I'm wondering if the ball detent springs need replacement, to help the detent balls remain in the coupler groove. The groove is not very deep but does not look worn. Or if there is some other issue/fix.

I don’t know if appropriate for the use but Harbor freight has link belts too. I’ve had one on my lathe for at least 15 years. Greg

Found and bought (eBay) a replacement, original cross slide handle for my Craftsman MK2 6" lathe. So glad as the so-called replacement handles I'd found thus far are just too large and interfere with the carriage handle. Both cross slide and compound were broken, which we all know is common and they are difficult if not impossible to find, at least in metal. Still looking for a compound handle. Rick

I discovered this listing at an online auction in my area. Doesn't specify the size, and pictures aren't great, it's in Baldwin, WI, about an hour or less east of Minneapolis/St Paul, Minnesota. It might be of interest to someone in the area. I haven't looked at it and I don't plan to, as I'm not interested in it. Just want to pass along the information. https://smithauctions.hibid.com/lot/185824555 Jim, in Menomonie, WI

Not mine. Looks like a pretty good deal with all the extras. https://sarasota.craigslist.org/tls/d/venice-lathe-atlas-x-18/7719146804.html

mrfixit82852 <mrfixit82852@...> added the album mrfixit82852 Craftsman Lathe "6": Craftsman Lathe "6" with components --- The following photos have been uploaded to the mrfixit82852 Craftsman Lathe "6" ( /g/atlas-craftsman/album?id=270998 ) album of the [email protected] group. * 20211207_115417.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355089 ) * 20211223_154254.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355090 ) * 20211223_154503.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355091 ) * 20211223_154616.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355092 ) * 20211223_155142.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355093 ) * 20211223_155414.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355094 ) * 20211223_155416.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355095 ) * 20211223_155740.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355096 ) * IMG00069.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355097 ) * 20211207_115257.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355098 ) * 20211207_115404.jpg ( /g/atlas-craftsman/photofromactivity?id=3355099 ) *By:* mrfixit82852 <mrfixit82852@...>

Hi All, FWIW, I've been using a $12 digital tach on my Atlas 10" lathe for quite a while (still powered run by the original 9 volt battery, but I switch it off when not in use), along with a used treadmill motor. I'll never go back to changing belts! Super-handy and fast to just dial up the RPM's you want and get to work. Hope that's helpful. God bless you and yours, Dave Harnish Dave's Repair Service https://www.DavesRepair.com drs@... Wise men still seek Him Acts 4:12

What’s the link to Dave’s Shop Folder?

hey folks have any of ya made a tachometer using a Arduino ? I tried some I found online but most of them seem to have something wrong with the code I'm not smart enough in the Arduino world to decipher the code . What are you folks using ? I don't want to buy just a tach from China . I need to get one working in the Arduino platform for part of a project I've got going . thanks animal

I just sold my 7B shaper and the 6x18 and 12x36 lathes sold this past weekend. Since I no longer have an Atlas or Craftsman machine, I’m going to leave the group and concentrate on the machine I still own. I want to thank everyone on the group for answering my questions and hope everyone enjoys preserving and using these machines. James Rice Sherman, Tx

Hello, I recently have gotten the carcass of an Atlas 1042. It is an F model I am currently cleaning it up and piecing it back together. I also have a Craftsman badged 618. steve

Hello all! Has anyone done an electronic lead screw conversion on their atlas lathes? If so can you show some pics of the project. I’m looking to add one but seam a bit complicated with all the electronics. Thank you!

This is from one of the guys that bought the Rocketronics ELS , he seems happy with it . Still waiting for reports from some others that bought one animal I got the basic and I can’t fault it , I have not done everything it can do but what I have done has been good, I have done facing, turning, external threading, taper turning, elliptical turning but it can do so much more, the only things that took me a bit of getting used to was making sure both axis set to zero before starting ( had a crash ) and to set settings to minus whatever you wanted to remove in control. picture of the Pultra T rest I made. Dell

I have a Craftsman/Atlas lathe model 101.07403. Great little machine. A friend gave it to me along with multiple accessories including the milling attachment. I spent approximately 25 years as a Journeyman Tool & Die Maker/ Machinist and also programmed CNC mills and lathes and wire EDM. So, needless to say Im having a ball tinkering with it. I saw a gadget on YouTube and decided to make one for my lathe for threading. Mainly for anything smaller than 1/2 inch thread. Faster than swapping out gears. So, Finished the threading tool for the lathe. The die is held in the piston by a 10-32 cap screw. I put the tailstock close and lock it down. Crank it in till it starts threading, and it does the rest. As it threads it pulls the piston through the sleeve. There is a stop screw I watch to prevent over travel. My lathe doesn't have reverse, so I have to back it out by hand. If the thread needs to be longer than the length of travel for the piston, I loosen the tailstock and slide it forward till the piston is at its starting point in the sleeve. There is a spring in the sleeve to load pressure when starting. Works great. Video is too large to email, so uploaded it to YouTube. Link below. https://youtu.be/3cP_xuqw0_Q?si=AJ4qFR4u6G2GnA-w

Making an Elliptical New Compound Thrust Plate/Large Dial Upgrade I'm installing larger dials both the cross slide and compound on a Craftsman 6" MK2 lathe and had the need to make a new thrust plate for the compound because the original is cast and the boss were the dial base needs to mount is tapered due the the draft. The thrust plate is elliptical and I wasn't sure how I was going to do until this video by Joe Piecznski popped up. I grasped the concept quickly and did not actually watch the video through the machining process. Had I done so, I might have been dissuaded as it looked too complicated. Joe’s method shifts a vise with the workpiece around on the rotary table by predetermined increments. Not being aware of this, I went a much different way, but I like how I did it. I plotted out pin positions for milling the two radii using on a backing plate mounted on the rotary table. Means breaking the setup down and repostioning the part for each radius. I also first used the mounting plate to turn the boss on the lathe. Start of the project, with the rotary table mount plate and the thrust plate stock pinned to it for turning the boss. Originals are on the left, new dial on the right. Turned boss. Second major radius milled takes rotating the part on the locating pins. Milling the second major radius Milling the end radius meant shifting the workpiece on the mounting plate to the second set of pins. For my part, rotary table rotation was 48? on each side. Any further would have dug into the primary radii. Finishing the thrust plate took drilling and counterboring holes for the mounting screws and filing out the machining marks. Due to the large dial backing ring, the mounting screws had to be flush or nearly flush with the surface. This required turning reducing the size of the SHCSs, but I like the look. Finished part, original and dial parts ready to install. New thrust plate installed. New dial installed. Original thrust plate in the background. There is a problem here, however. It doesn’t work smoothly and will require some remedial work. The new dial cants when the set screw is locked. I think because the set screw is off-center and it clamps on the transition between solid shaft and the start of threads on the end for the handle/nuts. More on this to come.

https://reno.craigslist.org/tls/d/south-lake-tahoe-metal-lathe/7708908681.html