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There are plans and photos of DIY QC Toolposts on the web.? I made mine many rears ago from a 3" dummy artillery shell and I still have enough dovetailed stock left over to make additional tool

Not at all. Carbide centers are fine. But you may find that at some point you’ll need HSS centers as well. Such as when you need an extended center for working on a very small part. Or when you need

I installed brass half nuts on my lathe and fund if the leading edge that contacts the lead screw is increased they will close easier, I think that is because of the wear on the screw. If you close

[email protected]> wrote: Correct! With the half nuts engaged, the marks were off about a third of the way from alignment. I tried a few different thicknesses of washers and found a good thickness.

You can turn the tool post nut in a three jaw chuck with a little creative thinking in your set up. While a mill would be nice it is not necessary. The portion that comes up through the slot can be

I also purchased Phase II, maybe 8 or 10 years ago, and paid not much over $125 for a WEDGE type, with four or five holders. ?I'd strongly recommend WEDGE over Piston, as the grip is more secure. ?I

I made mine with a hacksaw and files. Cut a bit oversize and file to fit. Once upon a time that was the only way to do it! ;) Bill in OKC? Sent from my Sprint Phone.

The scribe marks on the wheel do not line up with the housing mark?

Assuming that the threading dial gear is meshed with the lead screw threads, use the carriage traverse handwheel to bring the “1” on the dial around to the fixed index mark. Engage the half nuts,

James , Thanks for the clarification A quick check on the Chronos , RDG , and other vendors based in the UK shows that a set similar to the one I pictured here goes for about $100 . . . not sure how

As far as I could find on Google there doesn't seem to be a US seller for that tool post. I checked some UK sellers and one tool post and 2 holders was priced at $621.00 without VAT and before

Well, I had a Phase-II piston-style post on my Atlas 10" and later a 12", and it was just FINE. Never once had a problem with repeatability or movement. But, perhaps some other brands of piston post

The nut can be turned on the lathe, as long as you are ok with a round nub sticking up through the compound slot rather than a square nub. You do need a four-jaw, though. It’s pretty easy to do, and

File and bench vise are enough. If you don't want to sweat for it, angle grinder and vise. If you have a bandsaw and a file that will work too. Milling machine is always nice but not required. Get

It is only popular in England and Australia and maybe some other former colonies. I have never seen one for sale in USA and i do go to plenty of used machinery auctions. Get Outlook for

Yes, you will have to mill the T-nut.? Unless you have the milling attachment for the lathe you will have to find somebody with a.mill.There are quite a few guys in this group that can do it.? I

I am curious as to why the “Dickson” type QC toolpost as used with the Myford and Austrian Emco lathes seldom seems to be mentioned ? I use them on all three lathes ( Atlas included) and it is

If you have a hacksaw and a file or any tools more advanced that that, you can "machine" the T-nut. My first QCTP I hadn't bought my mill yet so I did the T-nut with an angle grinder, a thin cut off

How difficult will it be to machine the t-nut? Am I going to have to find someone with a mill to do it? I measured the dimensions in the headstock where a quick change would go, where the rocker tool

I have a Phase II AXA piston type on my AC12x36, an A2Z CNC piston type aluminum QCTP on my AC6x18, a CDCO Bostar AXA wedge type on my South Bend 9A and a Bostar CXA wedge style on my South Bend 16".