Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Guenther, most of us here are amateurs. Not professional machinists. That is quite enough. If you do not have something constructive to say, do not say anything at all.
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Thursday, April 16, 2020, 11:26:20 PM CDT, Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Any decent machinist should know how to grind cutting tool for his machining job
GP
On Thursday, April 16, 2020, 7:33:53 PM EDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? any one have any pic's of the tool profile they use for makin pulleys ? ??? ??? animal
On 4/16/2020 2:46 PM, Dave Matticks wrote:
John, Nice article! Procedure look good, I'd use different tooling but same idea. Not going to make one for this episode but I have made a pulley or 2 in the past. Trued up a couple die cast ones as well, some are near useless out of the box. Not only made in USA but 2 miles from my house!
Dave
On April 16, 2020 at 1:02 PM "John Wilshusen via groups.io" <wilshusen@...> wrote:
Bruce, One additional thing to add to your literature pile. ?I read and applied what i learned in this write-up when I was making the motor pulley for my lathe. ?You might find it useful as well.
?
?
Good luck! John ?
So you're planning to create a pulley, eh? I'd really like to see a video of that!? Most of us have to settle for fabricating things. On Wed, Apr 15, 2020, 7:00 PM Dave Matticks < dpm100@...> wrote: Bruce, Yeah, 7075 is expensive but 6061 would work better than fine. 7075 just cuts so nice. Going cast iron is not going to save any money regardless of how you do it unless you pour it yourself! They don't carry round 7075 but you might get a good price on 6061 from Clinton Aluminum. McMaster Carr can surprise you sometimes. Alro sucks price wise! Have fun,
Dave On April 15, 2020 at 7:46 AM exerpd+groupsio@... wrote:
Thanks all! ? Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section. ? Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum? ? Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link. ? Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily. ? Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices. ? Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful. ? So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is.? So this is not an immediate necessity. --
Bruce Varner
? ?
?
?
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Any decent machinist should know how to grind cutting tool for his machining job
GP
On Thursday, April 16, 2020, 7:33:53 PM EDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? any one have any pic's of the tool profile they use for
makin pulleys ?
??? ??? animal
On 4/16/2020 2:46 PM, Dave Matticks
wrote:
John,
Nice article! Procedure look good, I'd use
different tooling but same idea.
Not going to make one for this episode but I have
made a pulley or 2 in the past.
Trued up a couple die cast ones as well, some are
near useless out of the box.
Not only made in USA but 2 miles from my house!
Dave
On April 16, 2020 at 1:02 PM "John
Wilshusen via groups.io" <wilshusen@...>
wrote:
Bruce,
One additional thing to add to your literature pile. ?I
read and applied what i learned in this write-up when I was
making the motor pulley for my lathe. ?You might find it
useful as well.
?
?
Good luck!
John
?
So you're planning to create a pulley,
eh? I'd really like to see a video of that!?
Most of us have to settle for
fabricating things.
On Wed,
Apr 15, 2020, 7:00 PM Dave Matticks < dpm100@...>
wrote:
Bruce,
Yeah, 7075 is expensive but 6061 would work
better than fine. 7075 just cuts so nice.
Going cast iron is not going to save any money
regardless of how you do it unless you pour it
yourself!
They don't carry round 7075 but you might get
a good price on 6061 from Clinton Aluminum.
McMaster Carr can surprise you sometimes.
Alro sucks price wise!
Have fun,
Dave
On April 15, 2020 at 7:46
AM exerpd+groupsio@...
wrote:
Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert
Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D
printing & casting & machining be less
expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the
Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther
Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to
machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave
Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than
the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks
for filling me in on the edits I make causing
problems.? I get the update only daily, so do
not have this problem.? The only times I do this
instead of a separate post, is when I have
grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like
every group has different formatting defaults.?
And in this group you cannot see what the final
formatting is going to look like until AFTER you
post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands,
it may be a while before I create this aluminum
pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete
this or have questions.? Prior to November, I
did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this
& still learning.? What might be easy to
some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a
little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29
pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum
pulley machining.? As was discussed early in
this thread, I do not use the drill press
constantly & it is working as is.? So this
is not an immediate necessity.
--
Bruce Varner
?
?
?
?
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Hi Bruce,
If you have a choice between 6061 and 7075, the less expensive option will be fine for what you're using it for. You're not going to be loading it very much - 7075 is more prone to fatigue cracking in some applications due to its grain. You won't be operating anywhere near the yield strength so either material would work.
For a really cheap cast iron blank, when the thrift shops open up go look for old weight lifting weights. Their machining quality is all over the map, but for a few bucks each you can afford to try different ones. I used one to make a chuck adapter plate for my Hardinge lathe and it worked well. After cutting below the skin the one I used machined nicely. In my case I needed a large hole in it, and it may take a while to locate one with a small diameter hole. Or you have a lathe, make a bushing.
Enjoy your project!
Dave F. in Washington State
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
??? ??? any one have any pic's of the tool profile they use for
makin pulleys ?
??? ??? animal
On 4/16/2020 2:46 PM, Dave Matticks
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
John,
Nice article! Procedure look good, I'd use
different tooling but same idea.
Not going to make one for this episode but I have
made a pulley or 2 in the past.
Trued up a couple die cast ones as well, some are
near useless out of the box.
Not only made in USA but 2 miles from my house!
Dave
On April 16, 2020 at 1:02 PM "John
Wilshusen via groups.io" <wilshusen@...>
wrote:
Bruce,
One additional thing to add to your literature pile. ?I
read and applied what i learned in this write-up when I was
making the motor pulley for my lathe. ?You might find it
useful as well.
?
?
Good luck!
John
?
So you're planning to create a pulley,
eh? I'd really like to see a video of that!?
Most of us have to settle for
fabricating things.
On Wed,
Apr 15, 2020, 7:00 PM Dave Matticks < dpm100@...>
wrote:
Bruce,
Yeah, 7075 is expensive but 6061 would work
better than fine. 7075 just cuts so nice.
Going cast iron is not going to save any money
regardless of how you do it unless you pour it
yourself!
They don't carry round 7075 but you might get
a good price on 6061 from Clinton Aluminum.
McMaster Carr can surprise you sometimes.
Alro sucks price wise!
Have fun,
Dave
On April 15, 2020 at 7:46
AM exerpd+groupsio@...
wrote:
Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert
Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D
printing & casting & machining be less
expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the
Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther
Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to
machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave
Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than
the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks
for filling me in on the edits I make causing
problems.? I get the update only daily, so do
not have this problem.? The only times I do this
instead of a separate post, is when I have
grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like
every group has different formatting defaults.?
And in this group you cannot see what the final
formatting is going to look like until AFTER you
post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands,
it may be a while before I create this aluminum
pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete
this or have questions.? Prior to November, I
did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this
& still learning.? What might be easy to
some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a
little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29
pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum
pulley machining.? As was discussed early in
this thread, I do not use the drill press
constantly & it is working as is.? So this
is not an immediate necessity.
--
Bruce Varner
?
?
?
?
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
John,
Nice article! Procedure look good, I'd use different tooling but same idea.
Not going to make one for this episode but I have made a pulley or 2 in the past.
Trued up a couple die cast ones as well, some are near useless out of the box.
Not only made in USA but 2 miles from my house!
Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On April 16, 2020 at 1:02 PM "John Wilshusen via groups.io" <wilshusen@...> wrote:
Bruce,
One additional thing to add to your literature pile. ?I read and applied what i learned in this write-up when I was making the motor pulley for my lathe. ?You might find it useful as well.
?
?
Good luck!
John
?
On Apr 16, 2020, at 9:34 AM, Jim Irwin <jimairwin@...> wrote:
So you're planning to create a pulley, eh? I'd really like to see a video of that!?
Most of us have to settle for fabricating things.
On Wed, Apr 15, 2020, 7:00 PM Dave Matticks <
dpm100@...> wrote:
Bruce,
Yeah, 7075 is expensive but 6061 would work better than fine. 7075 just cuts so nice.
Going cast iron is not going to save any money regardless of how you do it unless you pour it yourself!
They don't carry round 7075 but you might get a good price on 6061 from Clinton Aluminum.
McMaster Carr can surprise you sometimes.
Alro sucks price wise!
Have fun,
Dave
On April 15, 2020 at 7:46 AM
exerpd+groupsio@... wrote:
Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is.? So this is not an immediate necessity. --
Bruce Varner
?
?
?
?
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Bruce, One additional thing to add to your literature pile. ?I read and applied what i learned in this write-up when I was making the motor pulley for my lathe. ?You might find it useful as well.
Good luck!
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 16, 2020, at 9:34 AM, Jim Irwin <jimairwin@...> wrote:
? So you're planning to create a pulley, eh? I'd really like to see a video of that!? Most of us have to settle for fabricating things. On Wed, Apr 15, 2020, 7:00 PM Dave Matticks < dpm100@...> wrote:
Bruce,
Yeah, 7075 is expensive but 6061 would work better than fine. 7075 just cuts so nice.
Going cast iron is not going to save any money regardless of how you do it unless you pour it yourself!
They don't carry round 7075 but you might get a good price on 6061 from Clinton Aluminum.
McMaster Carr can surprise you sometimes.
Alro sucks price wise!
Have fun,
Dave
On April 15, 2020 at 7:46 AM exerpd+groupsio@... wrote:
Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is.? So this is not an immediate necessity. --
Bruce Varner
?
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Another place you can try is Metal Supermarkets; they have quite a few stores around the country, and also ship for online orders. ?Website: ?
They will cut to length for you, generally I have found their prices to be competitive.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 16, 2020, at 9:38 AM, Steven H via groups.io <stevesmachining@...> wrote:
?SpeedyMetals.com sells Aluminum round in 2011, 2024, 6061, and 7075 grades.?
7075 round aluminum can be had up to 12” diameter from Speedy.
Speedy also sells Class 40 gray cast iron up to 12” diameter.
Another online source to check would be OnlineMetals.com
One disadvantage to purchasing online is the shipping cost. Speedy ships via UPS and they do a very good job of packaging. They use a lot of striated packaging tape. You can get the shipping cost right on their site.
Steve Haskell
Troy, MI
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
SpeedyMetals.com sells Aluminum round in 2011, 2024, 6061, and 7075 grades.?
7075 round aluminum can be had up to 12” diameter from Speedy.
Speedy also sells Class 40 gray cast iron up to 12” diameter.
Another online source to check would be OnlineMetals.com
One disadvantage to purchasing online is the shipping cost. Speedy ships via UPS and they do a very good job of packaging. They use a lot of striated packaging tape. You can get the shipping cost right on their site.
Steve Haskell
Troy, MI
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
So you're planning to create a pulley, eh? I'd really like to see a video of that!? Most of us have to settle for fabricating things.
On Wed, Apr 15, 2020, 7:00 PM Dave Matticks < dpm100@...> wrote:
Bruce,
Yeah, 7075 is expensive but 6061 would work better than fine. 7075 just cuts so nice.
Going cast iron is not going to save any money regardless of how you do it unless you pour it yourself!
They don't carry round 7075 but you might get a good price on 6061 from Clinton Aluminum.
McMaster Carr can surprise you sometimes.
Alro sucks price wise!
Have fun,
Dave
On April 15, 2020 at 7:46 AM exerpd+groupsio@... wrote:
Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is.? So this is not an immediate necessity. --
Bruce Varner
?
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Bruce,
Yeah, 7075 is expensive but 6061 would work better than fine. 7075 just cuts so nice.
Going cast iron is not going to save any money regardless of how you do it unless you pour it yourself!
They don't carry round 7075 but you might get a good price on 6061 from Clinton Aluminum.
McMaster Carr can surprise you sometimes.
Alro sucks price wise!
Have fun,
Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On April 15, 2020 at 7:46 AM exerpd+groupsio@... wrote:
Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is. ?So this is not an immediate necessity. --
Bruce Varner
?
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
"I ?see no reason to 3-D print the pattern.? Turn one out of wood, or glue up some sawn plywood disks"I make a lot of things in wood first, it helps me as a practice run.? Sometimes I don't see the problems until I get into the turning.? Order of operations, how to hold the piece, etc.? Wood is cheaper to learn on than aluminum or cast iron.? Just clean up the machine as soon as you're done to avoid damp sawdust on your pretty lathe.
Making that large pulley from a casting is definitely the way to go.? Making it from bar stock, there would be - as you say - a lot of metal to whittle away.
Cast iron versus cast aluminum - that’s up to you.? I made a similar set of four-step pulleys about 30 years ago for a Delta wood/metal cutting bandsaw.? Both were from aluminum - the large driven pulley from a casting, the smaller motor pulley from bar stock.? Both have held up perfectly over the years.? I used aluminum because I found someone who had cast up some pulley blanks in a backyard foundry and was offering them very reasonably.? For a blank in cast iron, you may have to go to a commercial foundry, and may have to pay a lot more.
If you go with cast iron, make sure that the blank is well oversize so that you can get beneath the hardened skin.? With cast aluminum there may be some sand in the skin, but it will not be as bad.? Cast iron will make a much bigger mess in turning.? Cast aluminum will be easier to machine.
I see no reason to 3-D print the pattern.? Turn one out of wood, or glue up some sawn plywood disks.? Don’t bother making the underside hollow like the original pulley unless you need the hollow for clearance, as the pattern and the moulding process will be more complicated.? And I’d leave the pulley with a flat back, as machining out the hollow will only increase the likelihood of a balancing problem. ? Bruce,
Not necessarily cheaper, but I want it cast iron. Plus, it will be way less work to turn down a cast blank than a solid chunk of bar. I probably failed to mention that it's a 4 step pulley, and ranges from about 5" on the largest diameter to about 1-1/2" on the smaller diameter. That's a lot of cast iron to whittle out of a solid bar. And Durabar isn't that cheap, either, from what I remember.?
Brad Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is.? So this is not an immediate necessity.
--
Bruce Varner
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Making that large pulley from a casting is definitely the way to go. ?Making it from bar stock, there would be - as you say - a lot of metal to whittle away.
Cast iron versus cast aluminum - that’s up to you. ?I made a similar set of four-step pulleys about 30 years ago for a Delta wood/metal cutting bandsaw. ?Both were from aluminum - the large driven pulley from a casting, the smaller motor pulley from bar stock. ?Both have held up perfectly over the years. ?I used aluminum because I found someone who had cast up some pulley blanks in a backyard foundry and was offering them very reasonably. ?For a blank in cast iron, you may have to go to a commercial foundry, and may have to pay a lot more.
If you go with cast iron, make sure that the blank is well oversize so that you can get beneath the hardened skin. ?With cast aluminum there may be some sand in the skin, but it will not be as bad. ?Cast iron will make a much bigger mess in turning. ?Cast aluminum will be easier to machine.
I see no reason to 3-D print the pattern. ?Turn one out of wood, or glue up some sawn plywood disks. ?Don’t bother making the underside hollow like the original pulley unless you need the hollow for clearance, as the pattern and the moulding process will be more complicated. ?And I’d leave the pulley with a flat back, as machining out the hollow will only increase the likelihood of a balancing problem.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 15, 2020, at 10:05 AM, Brad <nailm1405@...> wrote:
? Bruce,
Not necessarily cheaper, but I want it cast iron. Plus, it will be way less work to turn down a cast blank than a solid chunk of bar. I probably failed to mention that it's a 4 step pulley, and ranges from about 5" on the largest diameter to about 1-1/2" on the smaller diameter. That's a lot of cast iron to whittle out of a solid bar. And Durabar isn't that cheap, either, from what I remember.?
Brad Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is.? So this is not an immediate necessity.
--
Bruce Varner
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
John I guess it could be somewhat complicated for a person that never used metal machines before. There are many members here that have the experience and are willing to help.? If? a member needs help i am always willing to help or go as far to make the part
GP
On Wednesday, April 15, 2020, 9:43:08 AM EDT, John Wilshusen via groups.io <wilshusen@...> wrote:
Bruce, Just offering a word of encouragement — the very first real thing I machined on my 618 lathe was a 2-step motor pulley. When I bought the lathe, it had all the other parts including the two-step countershaft drive pulley, but the motor only had some Tractor Supply Company single groove version. After a bit of research and advice from another owner, I was able to sketch up the required dimensions and turned one from a 6061 round stock. It took way longer than it probably should have to finish, but it fit up nicely and works like a champ. Moral of the story, it looks a lot more complicated than it really is; if you have a way to use the lathe as is, dive in and do it. You will learn a bunch in the process, and there is a great deal of satisfaction to be had the first time you make something else using the parts you made yourself.?
On Apr 15, 2020, at 8:47 AM, exerpd+groupsio@... wrote:
? Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
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Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
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Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
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Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is. ?So this is not an immediate necessity.
-- Bruce Varner
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Bruce,
Not necessarily cheaper, but I want it cast iron. Plus, it will be way less work to turn down a cast blank than a solid chunk of bar. I probably failed to mention that it's a 4 step pulley, and ranges from about 5" on the largest diameter to about 1-1/2" on the smaller diameter. That's a lot of cast iron to whittle out of a solid bar. And Durabar isn't that cheap, either, from what I remember.?
Brad
Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is.? So this is not an immediate necessity.
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Bruce, Just offering a word of encouragement — the very first real thing I machined on my 618 lathe was a 2-step motor pulley. When I bought the lathe, it had all the other parts including the two-step countershaft drive pulley, but the motor only had some Tractor Supply Company single groove version. After a bit of research and advice from another owner, I was able to sketch up the required dimensions and turned one from a 6061 round stock. It took way longer than it probably should have to finish, but it fit up nicely and works like a champ. Moral of the story, it looks a lot more complicated than it really is; if you have a way to use the lathe as is, dive in and do it. You will learn a bunch in the process, and there is a great deal of satisfaction to be had the first time you make something else using the parts you made yourself.?
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On Apr 15, 2020, at 8:47 AM, exerpd+groupsio@... wrote:
? Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is. ?So this is not an immediate necessity.
-- Bruce Varner
|
Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Thanks all!
?
Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
?
Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
?
Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
?
Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
?
Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
?
Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is. ?So this is not an immediate necessity.
-- Bruce Varner
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Also, the 101.28990 will have the slip clutch on the lead screw, and the cross-feed engages by pushing down on a lever instead of by pulling out on the constantly rotating knob like everything else back to about 1938 had. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2020 08:59
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? Thanks Robert. Definitely the 101.28990 then. I never really had a need to figure that out before. Thanks for the tip on Clausing, I may give it a try. As for the washer that is there now, I'm not convinced it's a fiber washer. It is not unlikely that it was replaced by a previous owner. It is extremely thin, paper thin, and almost sharp. I din't?measure it, but I guess maybe .015 or so. Almost like a spring washer without the spring, but thinner.?
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
OK.? If it bends and doesn’t break, then it is most likely metal and therefore not original.? And if it is that thin, it should have been replaced some time ago whatever it is.? J ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2020 08:59
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? Thanks Robert. Definitely the 101.28990 then. I never really had a need to figure that out before. Thanks for the tip on Clausing, I may give it a try. As for the washer that is there now, I'm not convinced it's a fiber washer. It is not unlikely that it was replaced by a previous owner. It is extremely thin, paper thin, and almost sharp. I din't?measure it, but I guess maybe .015 or so. Almost like a spring washer without the spring, but thinner.? ?
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
So is the assembly drawing.? It is in most if not all of the cabinet model operating and parts manuals. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mondosmetals
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2020 06:40
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? That's a problem in your browser. The images are both .jpg. But let's see if I attach them here as attached files and not inserted images. Download to view. BTW: I think the L3-107 drawing is in the files library as a .pdf
Raymond
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Thanks Robert. Definitely the 101.28990 then. I never really had a need to figure that out before. Thanks for the tip on Clausing, I may give it a try. As for the washer that is there now, I'm not convinced it's a fiber washer. It is not unlikely that it was replaced by a previous owner. It is extremely thin, paper thin, and almost sharp. I din't?measure it, but I guess maybe .015 or so. Almost like a spring washer without the spring, but thinner.?
Thanks again,
Brad
First, there is no misidentifying a 101.28980 or 101.28990.? The former is a 12x24 and the latter a 12x36. ? As they will now ship with USPS as well as UPS, I would call Clausing for the 9-146.? Unless ?you really need 100 of them.? Just remember to tell whomever takes your order to ship it USPS, not UPS. ? Fiber washers could sometimes be considered as thrust washers, but their primary purpose is usually as electrical separators or spacers.? You could think of them as thrust washers if you wish but if the pulleys on the countershaft are properly aligned, there will be zero thrust exerted on the countershaft spindle.? Fiber washers are nonmetallic but not plastic (which will melt), and generally come in red, black or various shades of gray.? The primary component is usually cellulose.? ? Robert Downs ? ? Dave or others, On another note, while disassembling my countershaft to get a picture of the buggered up shaft, I noticed that the seal washers were beat. They actually split taking them off the shaft. I have seen oil dripping below the bronze?bearing, so this does not surprise me. In the manual (BTW, what I have is a 101.28980 or a 101. 28990), I see the washer in question listed as P/N 9-146, a Fibre Washer. 'm looking in McMaster for a replacement, but i'm trying to decide what to get.? Are these considered?thrust washers? Seals? The ones I took off seem metallic, but the manual calls them fiber. Any thoughts? ? On Sun, Apr 12, 2020 at 4:10 PM Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Just popped mine off for a photo.? The countershaft has a spotface to accept the set screw that comes in at an angle.? The outboard end is keyed, that's where you would take up end play. Just a set screw driving something just isn't right! Maybe someone replaced the shaft and forgot an important detail.? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message -------- Date: 4/12/20 10:03 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished There is a key in the motor shaft and pulley, just not on the lower/moveable countershaft. And it’s the 36” model, I just don’t know the numeric model number.? ? Brad, et al, ? That is essentially the same experience that I’ve had with my Atlas 3996 purchased new in 1981.? But I should point out that there should be a square key in the motor shaft and motor pulley.? ? I’ve had no slippage problems but for years had to remember to periodically loosen the set screw, slide the motor pulley back onto the motor shaft and retighten the set screw.? I finally solved the migrating pulley problem with a 5/8” bore split clamp from McMaster.? Since installing it, the pulley has never moved. ? If you want to know what model it is, send me a front view photo and say whether it is a 12x24 or 12x36. ? Robert Downs ? ? I have a 12” Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I’m not sure of the model number or the year.? When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both the motor belt and the countershaft belt. When the lever is engaged, the belts are not super tight, yet I have never had an issue with slippage from the belts. I achieved this by adjusting the belts in this order: First, I tensioned the belts from the spindle shaft to the upper/stationary countershaft. I locked the four bolts tight on that spindle bearing housing and and I leave them that way. I've never had a problem with the belts taking a set. Second, I tension the upper/lower countershaft belt using the nuts on the engage/disengage lever.? Third, I tensioned the motor to lower/moveable countershaft pulley by adjusting the motor position. This was the most finicky belt to adjust. Too tight and you couldn't remove the belt when disengaged, and too loose and you might get slippage. And, it seems there is a difference in tension depending which position the belt is in, high or low speed. There is a sweet spot right in the middle, and once I got it set, I haven't had a problem yet.? The only slippage I have had is between the lower/moveable countershaft and the motor pulley that is on it on the inside The pulley is not keyed to the shaft, but only secured with a grub screw. I'm assuming this to provide a safety factor in case you over torque the machine. My machine started slipping the other day and I discovered that the shaft has a pretty good groove worn into it. Future repair. For now, the grub screw was retightened and I was back in business.? The bigger problem I've had is trying to get oil to the bronze sleeve for the lower/moveable countershaft. It is behind the large pulley, and trying to get the oil cup open and the spout of an oil can in there is a real pain. I'm thinking about piping it out away from the bushing housing, but I just haven't done it yet.?
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Bill in OKC too
John Wilshusen
Steven H