Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Andrei,
I don't think those are big enough. The drawing calls for 4" and change diameter.?
A while ago, I broke a cast iron drive pulley for the table feed of a Hardinge TM mill while tearing it down to rebuild it. I had a new pulley blank 3D printed, and I'm going to send I plan to have it sent to Windy Hill Foundry to have it poured, then do the machining to finish it off. I was originally looking at aluminum, but it's expensive that big and I want it to be as close to original as possible.?
Brad
On Mon, Apr 13, 2020 at 4:32 PM Andrei < calciu1@...> wrote:
Here are two pieces. One to mess up on, and one to finish ?
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You are buying 2 pieces of 2-1/2" (2.50") OD 6061 T6511 Aluminum Solid Round Rod 5" Long +.07"/-0" A total of 10". Max combined weight is 20 lbs.
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I guess I should spark another debate.? If I do try to machine this pulley, any suggestions on what aluminum to use?
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
How do you get a 5" diameter pulley out of 2.5" stock? THAT is a trick I'd like to learn!
I'm sorry, but my inner smart-aleck took over there for a moment. You'd need a minimum 5" diameter piece of stock for that pulley, though. 5" length isn't going to do it. I should know, as I've butchered enough parts in my class!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects.
LAZARUS LONG (Robert A. Heinlein)
On Monday, April 13, 2020, 03:32:45 PM CDT, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
?
Here are two pieces. One to mess up on, and one to finish ?
?
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You are buying 2 pieces of 2-1/2" (2.50") OD 6061 T6511 Aluminum Solid Round Rod 5" Long +.07"/-0" A total of 10". Max combined weight is 20 lbs.
www.ebay.com
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?
?
I guess I should spark another debate.? If I do try to machine this pulley, any suggestions on what aluminum to use?
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Here are two pieces. One to mess up on, and one to finish ?
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You are buying 2 pieces of 2-1/2" (2.50") OD 6061 T6511 Aluminum Solid Round Rod 5" Long +.07"/-0" A total of 10". Max combined weight is 20 lbs.
www.ebay.com
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I guess I should spark another debate.? If I do try to machine this pulley, any suggestions on what aluminum to use?
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Sent: Monday,
April 13, 2020, 12:34 PM
Subject:
[atlas-craftsman IO] Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing
Attachment
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[Edited Message Follows]
One of the first responses to this thread was the suggestion to
machine the needed pulley myself.? I am posting this response to
that suggestion.? May end up building this.? Going to try and find
an existing one first, but if that does not produce, may try it.?
It would be more complicated than anything I have done on the
lathe to this point............
So, I heard back from Tom McNett at Clausing (Thanks Andrei).? He
said that the 60-29 pulley is no longer available.? He did however
send me the manufactures design diagram for the pulley, in case I
decided to machine it myself.? Thought I would post that diagram
here for others if interested.
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
I guess I should spark another debate.? If I do try to machine this pulley, any suggestions on what aluminum to use?
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
One of the first responses to this thread was the suggestion to machine the needed pulley myself.? I am posting this response to that suggestion.? May end up building this.? Going to try and find an existing one first, but if that does not produce, may try it.? It would be more complicated than anything I have done on the lathe to this point............
So, I heard back from Tom McNett at Clausing (Thanks Andrei).? He said that the 60-29 pulley is no longer available.? He did however send me the manufactures design diagram for the pulley, in case I decided to machine it myself.? Thought I would post that diagram here for others if interested.
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Unfortunately, we don¡¯t have access to either of the original drawings.? And I either don¡¯t know or don¡¯t remember where the member who drew the motor pulley drawing that we have got his dimensions, either the diameters or the just as critical widths.? And the 2-step countershaft pulley dimensions that we have are much less likely to match the original drawing dimensions exactly.? No one who might have made a motor pulley from the drawing that we have AFAIK has ever commented on how close to the same belt tension in each groove they got with it.? All that I can actually say is that the two pulleys that came with my 3996 seem to give the same belt tension in both grooves.? But the larger pulley that came with the cabinet models is a different part number from the one that you have.? And we have no way of knowing whether the part number changed because the pulley changed or just because someone wanted to get rid of another original Atlas part number. ? About all that we can say is that it was probably the designer¡¯s intention that the belt tensions be the same. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Stan Gorodenski
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 11:13
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? Robert,
This message is going back to my 10F. As I previously said, the tension between the high speed and low speed is markedly different. They are not close. As I said in my last message, I checked the two step? motor pulley and it is to spec. Because I remembered that someone had wrapped what looked like strips of friction tape around one of the steps (probably the high speed step of the motor pulley) I suspect the two step? countershaft pulley might be the problem.
However, when I said the two step motor pulley is to spec that was not quite correct. There was a small difference that I cannot believe could be the problem. The low speed pulley of the two step motor pulley is about 0.091" larger in diameter at the low point of the pulley than the drawing in the files section. The drawing has 0.95". Mine measures 1.041". This is only 0.091" larger than the drawing dimension. The v-belt never touches the low point but it would affect the sides. It does not seem possible that this very small amount would make a noticeable difference in tension. In fact, the drawing may also be off due to measurement error.
Stan
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Hi Brad,? Just popped mine off for a photo.? It's a 3991, 12x36.? The countershaft has a spotface to accept the set screw that comes in at an angle.? The outboard end is keyed, that's where you would take up end play. Just a set screw driving something just isn't right! Maybe someone replaced the shaft and forgot an important detail.?
Dave Matticks?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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-------- Original message -------- From: Brad <nailm1405@...> Date: 4/12/20 10:03 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
There is a key in the motor shaft and pulley, just not on the lower/moveable countershaft. And it¡¯s the 36¡± model, I just don¡¯t know the numeric model number.?
Thanks,
Brad Brad, et al, ? That is essentially the same experience that I¡¯ve had with my Atlas 3996 purchased new in 1981.? But I should point out that there should be a square key in the motor shaft and motor pulley.? ? I¡¯ve had no slippage problems but for years had to remember to periodically loosen the set screw, slide the motor pulley back onto the motor shaft and retighten the set screw.? I finally solved the migrating pulley problem with a 5/8¡± bore split clamp from McMaster.? Since installing it, the pulley has never moved. ? If you want to know what model it is, send me a front view photo and say whether it is a 12x24 or 12x36. ? Robert Downs ? ? I have a 12¡± Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I¡¯m not sure of the model number or the year.? When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both the motor belt and the countershaft belt. When the lever is engaged, the belts are not super tight, yet I have never had an issue with slippage from the belts. I achieved this by adjusting the belts in this order: First, I tensioned the belts from the spindle shaft to the upper/stationary countershaft. I locked the four bolts tight on that spindle bearing housing and and I leave them that way. I've never had a problem with the belts taking a set. Second, I tension the upper/lower countershaft belt using the nuts on the engage/disengage lever.? Third, I tensioned the motor to lower/moveable countershaft pulley by adjusting the motor position. This was the most finicky belt to adjust. Too tight and you couldn't remove the belt when disengaged, and too loose and you might get slippage. And, it seems there is a difference in tension depending which position the belt is in, high or low speed. There is a sweet spot right in the middle, and once I got it set, I haven't had a problem yet.? The only slippage I have had is between the lower/moveable countershaft and the motor pulley that is on it on the inside The pulley is not keyed to the shaft, but only secured with a grub screw. I'm assuming this to provide a safety factor in case you over torque the machine. My machine started slipping the other day and I discovered that the shaft has a pretty good groove worn into it. Future repair. For now, the grub screw was retightened and I was back in business.? The bigger problem I've had is trying to get oil to the bronze sleeve for the lower/moveable countershaft. It is behind the large pulley, and trying to get the oil cup open and the spout of an oil can in there is a real pain. I'm thinking about piping it out away from the bushing housing, but I just haven't done it yet.?
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Robert,
This message is going back to my 10F. As I previously said, the tension between the high speed and low speed is markedly different. They are not close. As I said in my last message, I checked the two step? motor pulley and it is to spec. Because I remembered that someone had wrapped what looked like strips of friction tape around one of the steps (probably the high speed step of the motor pulley) I suspect the two step? countershaft pulley might be the problem.
However, when I said the two step motor pulley is to spec that was not quite correct. There was a small difference that I cannot believe could be the problem. The low speed pulley of the two step motor pulley is about 0.091" larger in diameter at the low point of the pulley than the drawing in the files section. The drawing has 0.95". Mine measures 1.041". This is only 0.091" larger than the drawing dimension. The v-belt never touches the low point but it would affect the sides. It does not seem possible that this very small amount would make a noticeable difference in tension. In fact, the drawing may also be off due to measurement error.
Stan
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
There is a key in the motor shaft and pulley, just not on the lower/moveable countershaft. And it¡¯s the 36¡± model, I just don¡¯t know the numeric model number.?
Thanks,
Brad
Brad, et al, ? That is essentially the same experience that I¡¯ve had with my Atlas 3996 purchased new in 1981.? But I should point out that there should be a square key in the motor shaft and motor pulley.? ? I¡¯ve had no slippage problems but for years had to remember to periodically loosen the set screw, slide the motor pulley back onto the motor shaft and retighten the set screw.? I finally solved the migrating pulley problem with a 5/8¡± bore split clamp from McMaster.? Since installing it, the pulley has never moved. ? If you want to know what model it is, send me a front view photo and say whether it is a 12x24 or 12x36. ? Robert Downs ? ? I have a 12¡± Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I¡¯m not sure of the model number or the year.? When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both the motor belt and the countershaft belt. When the lever is engaged, the belts are not super tight, yet I have never had an issue with slippage from the belts. I achieved this by adjusting the belts in this order: First, I tensioned the belts from the spindle shaft to the upper/stationary countershaft. I locked the four bolts tight on that spindle bearing housing and and I leave them that way. I've never had a problem with the belts taking a set. Second, I tension the upper/lower countershaft belt using the nuts on the engage/disengage lever.? Third, I tensioned the motor to lower/moveable countershaft pulley by adjusting the motor position. This was the most finicky belt to adjust. Too tight and you couldn't remove the belt when disengaged, and too loose and you might get slippage. And, it seems there is a difference in tension depending which position the belt is in, high or low speed. There is a sweet spot right in the middle, and once I got it set, I haven't had a problem yet.? The only slippage I have had is between the lower/moveable countershaft and the motor pulley that is on it on the inside The pulley is not keyed to the shaft, but only secured with a grub screw. I'm assuming this to provide a safety factor in case you over torque the machine. My machine started slipping the other day and I discovered that the shaft has a pretty good groove worn into it. Future repair. For now, the grub screw was retightened and I was back in business.? The bigger problem I've had is trying to get oil to the bronze sleeve for the lower/moveable countershaft. It is behind the large pulley, and trying to get the oil cup open and the spout of an oil can in there is a real pain. I'm thinking about piping it out away from the bushing housing, but I just haven't done it yet.?
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
I forgot to add that I have approximately the same motor belt tension whether the belt is in the high speed or the low speed pulley grooves.? Perhaps you don¡¯t have an original motor pulley. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2020 09:45
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? I have a 12¡± Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I¡¯m not sure of the model number or the year.?
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Brad, et al, ? That is essentially the same experience that I¡¯ve had with my Atlas 3996 purchased new in 1981.? But I should point out that there should be a square key in the motor shaft and motor pulley.? ? I¡¯ve had no slippage problems but for years had to remember to periodically loosen the set screw, slide the motor pulley back onto the motor shaft and retighten the set screw.? I finally solved the migrating pulley problem with a 5/8¡± bore split clamp from McMaster.? Since installing it, the pulley has never moved. ? If you want to know what model it is, send me a front view photo and say whether it is a 12x24 or 12x36. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2020 09:45
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? I have a 12¡± Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I¡¯m not sure of the model number or the year.? When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both the motor belt and the countershaft belt. When the lever is engaged, the belts are not super tight, yet I have never had an issue with slippage from the belts. I achieved this by adjusting the belts in this order: First, I tensioned the belts from the spindle shaft to the upper/stationary countershaft. I locked the four bolts tight on that spindle bearing housing and and I leave them that way. I've never had a problem with the belts taking a set. Second, I tension the upper/lower countershaft belt using the nuts on the engage/disengage lever.? Third, I tensioned the motor to lower/moveable countershaft pulley by adjusting the motor position. This was the most finicky belt to adjust. Too tight and you couldn't remove the belt when disengaged, and too loose and you might get slippage. And, it seems there is a difference in tension depending which position the belt is in, high or low speed. There is a sweet spot right in the middle, and once I got it set, I haven't had a problem yet.? The only slippage I have had is between the lower/moveable countershaft and the motor pulley that is on it on the inside The pulley is not keyed to the shaft, but only secured with a grub screw. I'm assuming this to provide a safety factor in case you over torque the machine. My machine started slipping the other day and I discovered that the shaft has a pretty good groove worn into it. Future repair. For now, the grub screw was retightened and I was back in business.? The bigger problem I've had is trying to get oil to the bronze sleeve for the lower/moveable countershaft. It is behind the large pulley, and trying to get the oil cup open and the spout of an oil can in there is a real pain. I'm thinking about piping it out away from the bushing housing, but I just haven't done it yet.?
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
I have a 12¡± Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I¡¯m not sure of the model number or the year.?
When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both the motor belt and the countershaft belt. When the lever is engaged, the belts are not super tight, yet I have never had an issue with slippage from the belts. I achieved this by adjusting the belts in this order: First, I tensioned the belts from the spindle shaft to the upper/stationary countershaft. I locked the four bolts tight on that spindle bearing housing and and I leave them that way. I've never had a problem with the belts taking a set. Second, I tension the upper/lower countershaft belt using the nuts on the engage/disengage lever.? Third, I tensioned the motor to lower/moveable countershaft pulley by adjusting the motor position. This was the most finicky belt to adjust. Too tight and you couldn't remove the belt when disengaged, and too loose and you might get slippage. And, it seems there is a difference in tension depending which position the belt is in, high or low speed. There is a sweet spot right in the middle, and once I got it set, I haven't had a problem yet.?
The only slippage I have had is between the lower/moveable countershaft and the motor pulley that is on it on the inside. The pulley is not keyed to the shaft, but only secured with a grub screw. I'm assuming this to provide a safety factor in case you over torque the machine. My machine started slipping the other day and I discovered that the shaft has a pretty good groove worn into it. Future repair. For now, the grub screw was retightened and I was back in business.?
The bigger problem I've had is trying to get oil to the bronze sleeve for the lower/moveable countershaft. It is behind the large pulley, and trying to get the oil cup open and the spout of an oil can in there is a real pain. I'm thinking about piping it out away from the bushing housing, but I just haven't done it yet.?
Hope this helps.?
Brad
Brad
OK.? As far as I can tell from the two or three photos that we have of it, the first version of the Atlas 618 and the Craftsman badged 3/8: bed 12¡± are a special case.? There appears to be no options as to how or where the countershaft bracket and the motor base are mounted.? The same statement is apparently true (except for the slots in the motor base) of the countershaft bracket on the early 10¡± with vertical countershaft and of the motor bases when the lathe is mounted on the factory supplied legs. ? The same also appears to be true of the 3/8¡± bed 12¡± models.? What I don¡¯t know because I¡¯ve never had my hands on one to check is whether on the early Craftsman 12¡± if you first tension the spindle belt and then tension the motor belt and tighten the locking lever, releasing the belt tension rod alone slackens the motor belt enough to allow you to change which steps the motor belt is running in.? Maybe you do have to loosen the lock nut lever and lift the motor to change the motor belt.? But I will say as I have said before that anyone who depends only upon the weight of the motor to determine the motor belt tension is just asking for trouble. ? Robert Downs ? ? On Sun, Apr 5, 2020 at 03:31 AM, Robert Downs wrote: With the exception of the two spindle belts on the late 12¡± cabinet models, all of the Atlas built metal working lathes were originally designed so that if the motor was mounted in the proper location, slackening the belt tension lever or rod loosened both belts for changing spindle speeds. Not entirely correct, depending on how one chooses to define "proper location." Models on which the countershaft bracket L3-20 (with motor base 9-22 or 9-22A) is mounted directly to the back of the lathe bed the motor belt tension is fixed separately from the countershaft-to-spindle belt tension. Please refer to the illustration attached. This illustration was clipped from the operation and parts manual for Craftsman 101.07403 model lathes.
? 
Loosening the lock-nut 9-42 will release the motor lock bolt but the weight of the motor will hang on the belt keeping it tensioned when not in use.
Raymond ?
Raymond
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Or one could do what I did.? Replaced the motor with a dc motor and drive.
Now when tapping I also have reverse.? Only time I need to change the belt position is when I am using a hole saw.
I do understand attempting to keep the drill press stock.? I appreciate old tools just like most of us.
However, modern electronics have added usefulness the original designers never dreamed of.
Rick
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
OK.? As far as I can tell from the two or three photos that we have of it, the first version of the Atlas 618 and the Craftsman badged 3/8: bed 12¡± are a special case.? There appears to be no options as to how or where the countershaft bracket and the motor base are mounted.? The same statement is apparently true (except for the slots in the motor base) of the countershaft bracket on the early 10¡± with vertical countershaft and of the motor bases when the lathe is mounted on the factory supplied legs. ? The same also appears to be true of the 3/8¡± bed 12¡± models.? What I don¡¯t know because I¡¯ve never had my hands on one to check is whether on the early Craftsman 12¡± if you first tension the spindle belt and then tension the motor belt and tighten the locking lever, releasing the belt tension rod alone slackens the motor belt enough to allow you to change which steps the motor belt is running in.? Maybe you do have to loosen the lock nut lever and lift the motor to change the motor belt.? But I will say as I have said before that anyone who depends only upon the weight of the motor to determine the motor belt tension is just asking for trouble. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mondosmetals
Sent: Thursday, April 9, 2020 23:15
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? On Sun, Apr 5, 2020 at 03:31 AM, Robert Downs wrote: With the exception of the two spindle belts on the late 12¡± cabinet models, all of the Atlas built metal working lathes were originally designed so that if the motor was mounted in the proper location, slackening the belt tension lever or rod loosened both belts for changing spindle speeds. Not entirely correct, depending on how one chooses to define "proper location." Models on which the countershaft bracket L3-20 (with motor base 9-22 or 9-22A) is mounted directly to the back of the lathe bed the motor belt tension is fixed separately from the countershaft-to-spindle belt tension. Please refer to the illustration attached. This illustration was clipped from the operation and parts manual for Craftsman 101.07403 model lathes.
?
Loosening the lock-nut 9-42 will release the motor lock bolt but the weight of the motor will hang on the belt keeping it tensioned when not in use.
Raymond ?
Raymond
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
I was not going to invest any more time on this list, but another member contacted me off list with a question and my interest was peaked so I will add what I Know to be true which may or may not be helpful to you.
The pulley number is correct as supplied by Atlas. This was the number which was used on machines that were produced for Sears and bagded Craftsman by Atlas. Atlas began supplying the drill presses to sears in 1934.
I don't know what the 500 signifies in the part number but it may be a series # specified by Atlas? the 4s will signify that it is 4 sheave, the B will signify a B series belt and the 103 signifies that it was used on any of the Craftsman 103 series of machines.
?There appear to be various bore sizes with this same part # , I find 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 there may be others. I hope this helps you. Dan has left the building.
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Re: Issue Facing Rectangular Bar Stock on the Lathe
Without reading all the other 42 responses I think you need to watch the chips coming off the material. As the cutting edge begins to dull the chips change their characteristics. If you watch the chips they will tell you when it is time to stop and make an adjustment or resharpen the bit.
Raymond
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anyone ever order from these folks?
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Bruce,
I may be able to help, but I'm reluctant to 'rain on your parade'. You seem excited by this project with this new accessory, but I suggest that you may not really need it, and that you will likely give up using it once you do succeed:
Sears/Craftsman offered these in the '50s into the '60s when their drill presses were made by the King-Seeley Corp. In the mid-50s they offered four versions to fit different column diameters, but by the 60s they had only one model, described in their catalog as fitting only 2 or 3 "former model xxxx" drills. It was called the "Slow-speed attachment".
I have one of those King-Seeley/Craftsman drill presses, and?I was delighted when I found the slow speed attachment that fit it.
Damn! I spent a lot of time fussing with that thing to get it mounted and aligned and adjusted. I left it installed for a couple years, during which I spent a lot more time doing the several steps necessary to change the speed, usually having to move two belts instead of one, often-as-not having to?remove?both belts and put them back in opposite order, just get some incremental change in speed.
At some point I realized:
1. I was spending a lot of time to set speeds that were within the range that's readily available with the basic 4-speed arrangement, seldom if ever using the extreme high and low speeds that were possible only with the attachment.
2. With the motor belt above the spindle belt you can get many different speeds, but they're all slower than the motor speed. With motor belt below, ditto, except they're all faster speeds. Either way, you get almost no speeds in the middle range, except by off-setting the motor pulley by one step, and then the total number of speed settings is severely reduced (and even more often requires removing both belts to change speed.
I think you get where this is going...
?
A few months ago I removed the third pulley (which I had come to think of as a fifth wheel) and I have not once wished to put it back on. It's there, ready to be re-installed. This would be likely only if I have a project that involves drilling a LOT of holes in some combination of size and material where I want a much higher or lower speed than I can get otherwise.
Now it takes me ten seconds instead of two minutes change speed.
?
I was thinking of writing something like this when you first posted, but like I said, I didn't want to damp your enthusiasm.
Then, just yesterday, I read a remark by somebody selling one of these things (maybe on eBay, I can't recall...) who admitted in the listing that he has had it for a long time and formerly used it, but decided it wasn't worth the bother, and now it's been lying around unused for years... so he's selling it. Not a very convincing sales pitch but, like almost everybody who loves to?work?with?things, honest!
This convinced me to pass this on to you.
Participants here will often exhort each other to stop wasting time on the finicky details and to "start making chips". (Just purchase the $10 item you need instead of spending 5 hours making one, install it, and get back to making what you?really?want to be making.)
So my advice to you:
Put that third pulley away and start making holes.
?
Kurt B.
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Re: Help to identify an Atlas drill press please
You should take into consideration that this is a 1930¡¯s design.? There have been a few improvements made since then in bearings, seals and lubricants,? There have also been some changes in the way that the sales people look at things.? The cost of labor has become the primary consideration in many cases, because it has become the most expensive part of the equation dealing with cost of ownership and operation.? All of which have pushed designs in the direction of no routine service until the machine wears out.? And then instead of fixing it, you replace it.? In any case, were I overhauling the drill press in question, I would use sealed bearings and limit the routine service to the outside of the quill including the gear teeth that run it up and down and the splines on the top end of the spindle.? And probably expect the machine to outlast me (I¡¯m 76)? :-) ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mondosmetals
Sent: Thursday, April 9, 2020 18:06
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Help to identify an Atlas drill press please? Those are really nice illustrations, than you for sharing them.
Detailed notes on my observations:
Note the cone-shaped bottom of the Spindle Thrust Collar that is above the spindle bearing - Neither the Craftsman nor the Atlas I have apart have the conical shape on the bottom of this collar, nor do the manuals show it that way - part # 60-24.
There is a small hole in the top of the pulley into which the operator could apply a few drops of oil. This hole is aligned with a groove resembling a keyway that would permit the oil to dribble down the outer surface of the sleeve on which the pulley and the upper spindle pulley bearing are installed. The oil would then pool around the center of the that bearing and could then seep into the bearing past the shield. Clever, perhaps, but not a good design, IMHO. A permanently lubricated and sealed bearing never needing additional oil until it begins to fail many thousands of operational hours in the future I think is a far better design.
?
Lubrication instructions for the Craftsman 101.06322 has this passage: - "B.? Quill bearings - oil frequently. (Note: Spindle must be in lowest position to uncover oil hole)."
This would suggest there is an oil hole in the quill near the top. But the quills I have have no such hole near the top. There is an oil hole near the bottom, a little higher up than where the quill stop mount is mounted. This hole could be used to add oil to the bottom most floating spindle bearing.? But I see no way to apply oil to the upper floating spindle bearing. With the design illustrated and as in the manuals any such oil hole located to reach the upper floating spindle bearing would have to penetrate the threaded bearing retaining ring. If the quill were to be extended far enough so such hole could be exposed the quill would need to be removed from the head.
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It is interesting to note that the Model 1060 series drill presses do not have the grease cup, nor do they have the same lubrication instructions, but have the same characteristic design and the same bearing part numbers as the Craftsman 101.03622. I am inclined to suspect that the original design or documentation proved to be problematic and an ECO discontinued the lubrication instructions. The manual for the Craftsman 101.03622 and 101.03662 drill presses is dated July, 1941 and probably represents the earlier engineering while the Atlas 1060 series instructions are dated December 1951 and represent the later engineering. The most curious part is both documents call for the same bearings, spindle, and quill part numbers. Of course, Atlas Press and Craftsman documentation is know to have errors and omissions.
My conclusions: - If you install shielded bearings oil might be dribbled into the upper most bearing but I seriously doubt any grease pushed into that void between the two upper bearings with the grease cup will do anything for either of them until that cavity is so packed full of grease it starts getting squeezed out top and bottom, slowly but surely making a nasty mess. But the shielded bearings should retain most of the factory installed lubrication (some unknown grade of bearing grease) for 20 years or more and additional lubrication is probably not necessary.
- Unless your machine has a different quill with different internal profile and an upper oil hole there is no way to add new lubricant the upper floating spindle bearing without removing the spindle assembly.
- If you were to install all sealed bearings there would be no point in attempting to add any lubricants to the spindle bearings after assembly and they will last 20 to 30 years or more.
Raymond
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Bill in OKC too
Stan Gorodenski