Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Thanks all!
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Glenn N – Yes, Robert Downs put this file in the files section.
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Brad – How can 3-D printing & casting & machining be less expensive than the piece of aluminum?
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Kay – Thanks for the Speedy Metals link.
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Robert Downs / Guenther Paul – Thanks for the suggestions on how to machine it more easily.
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Kay Davis / Dave Matticks – 7075 seems much more expensive than the other aluminum choices.
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Craig Treleaven – Thanks for filling me in on the edits I make causing problems.? I get the update only daily, so do not have this problem.? The only times I do this instead of a separate post, is when I have grammar or formatting errors.? It seems like every group has different formatting defaults.? And in this group you cannot see what the final formatting is going to look like until AFTER you post.? Will try to be more careful.
?
So everyone understands, it may be a while before I create this aluminum pulley.? I will update everyone when I complete this or have questions.? Prior to November, I did not even own a lathe, so I am new to this & still learning.? What might be easy to some, is new to me.? I am going to a) wait a little while to see if I can locate an OEM 60-29 pulley.? b) If not, then I will do the aluminum pulley machining.? As was discussed early in this thread, I do not use the drill press constantly & it is working as is. ?So this is not an immediate necessity.
-- Bruce Varner
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Also, the 101.28990 will have the slip clutch on the lead screw, and the cross-feed engages by pushing down on a lever instead of by pulling out on the constantly rotating knob like everything else back to about 1938 had. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2020 08:59
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? Thanks Robert. Definitely the 101.28990 then. I never really had a need to figure that out before. Thanks for the tip on Clausing, I may give it a try. As for the washer that is there now, I'm not convinced it's a fiber washer. It is not unlikely that it was replaced by a previous owner. It is extremely thin, paper thin, and almost sharp. I din't?measure it, but I guess maybe .015 or so. Almost like a spring washer without the spring, but thinner.?
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
OK.? If it bends and doesn’t break, then it is most likely metal and therefore not original.? And if it is that thin, it should have been replaced some time ago whatever it is.? J ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2020 08:59
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? Thanks Robert. Definitely the 101.28990 then. I never really had a need to figure that out before. Thanks for the tip on Clausing, I may give it a try. As for the washer that is there now, I'm not convinced it's a fiber washer. It is not unlikely that it was replaced by a previous owner. It is extremely thin, paper thin, and almost sharp. I din't?measure it, but I guess maybe .015 or so. Almost like a spring washer without the spring, but thinner.? ?
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
So is the assembly drawing.? It is in most if not all of the cabinet model operating and parts manuals. ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mondosmetals
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2020 06:40
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? That's a problem in your browser. The images are both .jpg. But let's see if I attach them here as attached files and not inserted images. Download to view. BTW: I think the L3-107 drawing is in the files library as a .pdf
Raymond
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Thanks Robert. Definitely the 101.28990 then. I never really had a need to figure that out before. Thanks for the tip on Clausing, I may give it a try. As for the washer that is there now, I'm not convinced it's a fiber washer. It is not unlikely that it was replaced by a previous owner. It is extremely thin, paper thin, and almost sharp. I din't?measure it, but I guess maybe .015 or so. Almost like a spring washer without the spring, but thinner.?
Thanks again,
Brad
First, there is no misidentifying a 101.28980 or 101.28990.? The former is a 12x24 and the latter a 12x36. ? As they will now ship with USPS as well as UPS, I would call Clausing for the 9-146.? Unless ?you really need 100 of them.? Just remember to tell whomever takes your order to ship it USPS, not UPS. ? Fiber washers could sometimes be considered as thrust washers, but their primary purpose is usually as electrical separators or spacers.? You could think of them as thrust washers if you wish but if the pulleys on the countershaft are properly aligned, there will be zero thrust exerted on the countershaft spindle.? Fiber washers are nonmetallic but not plastic (which will melt), and generally come in red, black or various shades of gray.? The primary component is usually cellulose.? ? Robert Downs ? ? Dave or others, On another note, while disassembling my countershaft to get a picture of the buggered up shaft, I noticed that the seal washers were beat. They actually split taking them off the shaft. I have seen oil dripping below the bronze?bearing, so this does not surprise me. In the manual (BTW, what I have is a 101.28980 or a 101. 28990), I see the washer in question listed as P/N 9-146, a Fibre Washer. 'm looking in McMaster for a replacement, but i'm trying to decide what to get.? Are these considered?thrust washers? Seals? The ones I took off seem metallic, but the manual calls them fiber. Any thoughts? ? On Sun, Apr 12, 2020 at 4:10 PM Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Just popped mine off for a photo.? The countershaft has a spotface to accept the set screw that comes in at an angle.? The outboard end is keyed, that's where you would take up end play. Just a set screw driving something just isn't right! Maybe someone replaced the shaft and forgot an important detail.? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message -------- Date: 4/12/20 10:03 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished There is a key in the motor shaft and pulley, just not on the lower/moveable countershaft. And it’s the 36” model, I just don’t know the numeric model number.? ? Brad, et al, ? That is essentially the same experience that I’ve had with my Atlas 3996 purchased new in 1981.? But I should point out that there should be a square key in the motor shaft and motor pulley.? ? I’ve had no slippage problems but for years had to remember to periodically loosen the set screw, slide the motor pulley back onto the motor shaft and retighten the set screw.? I finally solved the migrating pulley problem with a 5/8” bore split clamp from McMaster.? Since installing it, the pulley has never moved. ? If you want to know what model it is, send me a front view photo and say whether it is a 12x24 or 12x36. ? Robert Downs ? ? I have a 12” Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I’m not sure of the model number or the year.? When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both the motor belt and the countershaft belt. When the lever is engaged, the belts are not super tight, yet I have never had an issue with slippage from the belts. I achieved this by adjusting the belts in this order: First, I tensioned the belts from the spindle shaft to the upper/stationary countershaft. I locked the four bolts tight on that spindle bearing housing and and I leave them that way. I've never had a problem with the belts taking a set. Second, I tension the upper/lower countershaft belt using the nuts on the engage/disengage lever.? Third, I tensioned the motor to lower/moveable countershaft pulley by adjusting the motor position. This was the most finicky belt to adjust. Too tight and you couldn't remove the belt when disengaged, and too loose and you might get slippage. And, it seems there is a difference in tension depending which position the belt is in, high or low speed. There is a sweet spot right in the middle, and once I got it set, I haven't had a problem yet.? The only slippage I have had is between the lower/moveable countershaft and the motor pulley that is on it on the inside The pulley is not keyed to the shaft, but only secured with a grub screw. I'm assuming this to provide a safety factor in case you over torque the machine. My machine started slipping the other day and I discovered that the shaft has a pretty good groove worn into it. Future repair. For now, the grub screw was retightened and I was back in business.? The bigger problem I've had is trying to get oil to the bronze sleeve for the lower/moveable countershaft. It is behind the large pulley, and trying to get the oil cup open and the spout of an oil can in there is a real pain. I'm thinking about piping it out away from the bushing housing, but I just haven't done it yet.?
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Bruce, please don’t do this. ?For most of us, your messages arrive in the order you sent them. ?So someone who might be willing to read and respond to your request for help will receive your first message and maybe start to reply. ?Then along comes your edited message where it isn’t clear what has changed. ?Maybe others are more patient but, frankly, I’m not going to line up the two versions and figure out what is now different. ?
Just send an addendum if you missed something in your first message. ?Maybe read the first message before hitting send.
Or maybe I’m just virus-grumpy,
Craig
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
On Tue, Apr 14, 2020 at 01:58 AM, Robert Downs wrote:
You could think of them as thrust washers if you wish but if the pulleys on the countershaft are properly aligned, there will be zero thrust exerted on the countershaft spindle.
In this case these two washers are very light load thrust washers. The pulleys on each end of this countershaft should be set up close to the bearing block so that the shaft does not shift axially during operation. Something has to be in there to prevent wear on the bearing block and the bearing side of those pulleys and that is what these two fiber washers do.
When assembling, because the two-step pulley 560-060 is in a fixed position due to the divot in the shaft for the set screw, the shaft should be slid to the left such that the washer adjacent to the 2-step pulley is against the bearing block. The other fiber washer is then installed on the shaft, the Woodruff key installed, then the four-step pulley 10-80 installed on the shaft and slid? to the right until it is against it's washer in contact with the bearing block. The pulleys should not be jammed against the bearing block pinching it which will cause unnecessary wear of the fiber washers, but should not be so loose as to allow the shaft to shift any distance right or left causing the belts to run out of alignment. Light contact with no axial shifting is good.
Raymond
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
That's a problem in your browser. The images are both .jpg.
But let's see if I attach them here as attached files and not inserted images. Download to view. BTW: I think the L3-107 drawing is in the files library as a .pdf
Raymond
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
First, there is no misidentifying a 101.28980 or 101.28990.? The former is a 12x24 and the latter a 12x36. ? As they will now ship with USPS as well as UPS, I would call Clausing for the 9-146.? Unless ?you really need 100 of them.? Just remember to tell whomever takes your order to ship it USPS, not UPS. ? Fiber washers could sometimes be considered as thrust washers, but their primary purpose is usually as electrical separators or spacers.? You could think of them as thrust washers if you wish but if the pulleys on the countershaft are properly aligned, there will be zero thrust exerted on the countershaft spindle.? Fiber washers are nonmetallic but not plastic (which will melt), and generally come in red, black or various shades of gray.? The primary component is usually cellulose.? ? Robert Downs ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brad
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 20:06
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished? Dave or others, On another note, while disassembling my countershaft to get a picture of the buggered up shaft, I noticed that the seal washers were beat. They actually split taking them off the shaft. I have seen oil dripping below the bronze?bearing, so this does not surprise me. In the manual (BTW, what I have is a 101.28980 or a 101. 28990), I see the washer in question listed as P/N 9-146, a Fibre Washer. 'm looking in McMaster for a replacement, but i'm trying to decide what to get.? Are these considered?thrust washers? Seals? The ones I took off seem metallic, but the manual calls them fiber. Any thoughts? ? On Sun, Apr 12, 2020 at 4:10 PM Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote: Just popped mine off for a photo.? The countershaft has a spotface to accept the set screw that comes in at an angle.? The outboard end is keyed, that's where you would take up end play. Just a set screw driving something just isn't right! Maybe someone replaced the shaft and forgot an important detail.? Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device -------- Original message -------- Date: 4/12/20 10:03 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished There is a key in the motor shaft and pulley, just not on the lower/moveable countershaft. And it’s the 36” model, I just don’t know the numeric model number.? ? Brad, et al, ? That is essentially the same experience that I’ve had with my Atlas 3996 purchased new in 1981.? But I should point out that there should be a square key in the motor shaft and motor pulley.? ? I’ve had no slippage problems but for years had to remember to periodically loosen the set screw, slide the motor pulley back onto the motor shaft and retighten the set screw.? I finally solved the migrating pulley problem with a 5/8” bore split clamp from McMaster.? Since installing it, the pulley has never moved. ? If you want to know what model it is, send me a front view photo and say whether it is a 12x24 or 12x36. ? Robert Downs ? ? I have a 12” Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I’m not sure of the model number or the year.? When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both the motor belt and the countershaft belt. When the lever is engaged, the belts are not super tight, yet I have never had an issue with slippage from the belts. I achieved this by adjusting the belts in this order: First, I tensioned the belts from the spindle shaft to the upper/stationary countershaft. I locked the four bolts tight on that spindle bearing housing and and I leave them that way. I've never had a problem with the belts taking a set. Second, I tension the upper/lower countershaft belt using the nuts on the engage/disengage lever.? Third, I tensioned the motor to lower/moveable countershaft pulley by adjusting the motor position. This was the most finicky belt to adjust. Too tight and you couldn't remove the belt when disengaged, and too loose and you might get slippage. And, it seems there is a difference in tension depending which position the belt is in, high or low speed. There is a sweet spot right in the middle, and once I got it set, I haven't had a problem yet.? The only slippage I have had is between the lower/moveable countershaft and the motor pulley that is on it on the inside The pulley is not keyed to the shaft, but only secured with a grub screw. I'm assuming this to provide a safety factor in case you over torque the machine. My machine started slipping the other day and I discovered that the shaft has a pretty good groove worn into it. Future repair. For now, the grub screw was retightened and I was back in business.? The bigger problem I've had is trying to get oil to the bronze sleeve for the lower/moveable countershaft. It is behind the large pulley, and trying to get the oil cup open and the spout of an oil can in there is a real pain. I'm thinking about piping it out away from the bushing housing, but I just haven't done it yet.?
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Brad,? No problem.? If everything else is ok you could be done.? Mine's fine, just replaced the bushings but if I needed to replace the shaft it would be? TG&P Stressproof.?
Dave?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
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-------- Original message -------- From: Brad <nailm1405@...> Date: 4/13/20 17:19 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Thanks for the picture. I took a look at mine and can see the remnants of the dimple. I didn’t notice that the first time around, as it was packed pretty solid with material from where the screw carved out the gouge. I recreated the simple on the other side of the shaft as best I could, given the gouge in the shaft. While it was off, I took measurements to make a new shaft when I get the time. ?
Thanks,
On Sun, Apr 12, 2020 at 4:10 PM Dave Matticks < dpm100@...> wrote: Hi Brad,? Just popped mine off for a photo.? It's a 3991, 12x36.? The countershaft has a spotface to accept the set screw that comes in at an angle.? The outboard end is keyed, that's where you would take up end play. Just a set screw driving something just isn't right! Maybe someone replaced the shaft and forgot an important detail.?
Dave Matticks?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- Date: 4/12/20 10:03 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
There is a key in the motor shaft and pulley, just not on the lower/moveable countershaft. And it’s the 36” model, I just don’t know the numeric model number.?
Thanks,
Brad Brad, et al, ? That is essentially the same experience that I’ve had with my Atlas 3996 purchased new in 1981.? But I should point out that there should be a square key in the motor shaft and motor pulley.? ? I’ve had no slippage problems but for years had to remember to periodically loosen the set screw, slide the motor pulley back onto the motor shaft and retighten the set screw.? I finally solved the migrating pulley problem with a 5/8” bore split clamp from McMaster.? Since installing it, the pulley has never moved. ? If you want to know what model it is, send me a front view photo and say whether it is a 12x24 or 12x36. ? Robert Downs ? ? I have a 12” Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I’m not sure of the model number or the year.? When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both the motor belt and the countershaft belt. When the lever is engaged, the belts are not super tight, yet I have never had an issue with slippage from the belts. I achieved this by adjusting the belts in this order: First, I tensioned the belts from the spindle shaft to the upper/stationary countershaft. I locked the four bolts tight on that spindle bearing housing and and I leave them that way. I've never had a problem with the belts taking a set. Second, I tension the upper/lower countershaft belt using the nuts on the engage/disengage lever.? Third, I tensioned the motor to lower/moveable countershaft pulley by adjusting the motor position. This was the most finicky belt to adjust. Too tight and you couldn't remove the belt when disengaged, and too loose and you might get slippage. And, it seems there is a difference in tension depending which position the belt is in, high or low speed. There is a sweet spot right in the middle, and once I got it set, I haven't had a problem yet.? The only slippage I have had is between the lower/moveable countershaft and the motor pulley that is on it on the inside The pulley is not keyed to the shaft, but only secured with a grub screw. I'm assuming this to provide a safety factor in case you over torque the machine. My machine started slipping the other day and I discovered that the shaft has a pretty good groove worn into it. Future repair. For now, the grub screw was retightened and I was back in business.? The bigger problem I've had is trying to get oil to the bronze sleeve for the lower/moveable countershaft. It is behind the large pulley, and trying to get the oil cup open and the spout of an oil can in there is a real pain. I'm thinking about piping it out away from the bushing housing, but I just haven't done it yet.?
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Dave or others,
On another note, while disassembling my countershaft to get a picture of the buggered up shaft, I noticed that the seal washers were beat. They actually split taking them off the shaft. I have seen oil dripping below the bronze?bearing, so this does not surprise me. In the manual (BTW, what I have is a 101.28980 or a 101. 28990), I see the washer in question listed as P/N 9-146, a Fibre Washer. 'm looking in McMaster for a replacement, but i'm trying to decide what to get.? Are these considered?thrust washers? Seals? The ones I took off seem metallic, but the manual calls them fiber. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Brad
On Sun, Apr 12, 2020 at 4:10 PM Dave Matticks < dpm100@...> wrote: Hi Brad,? Just popped mine off for a photo.? It's a 3991, 12x36.? The countershaft has a spotface to accept the set screw that comes in at an angle.? The outboard end is keyed, that's where you would take up end play. Just a set screw driving something just isn't right! Maybe someone replaced the shaft and forgot an important detail.?
Dave Matticks?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- Date: 4/12/20 10:03 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
There is a key in the motor shaft and pulley, just not on the lower/moveable countershaft. And it’s the 36” model, I just don’t know the numeric model number.?
Thanks,
Brad Brad, et al, ? That is essentially the same experience that I’ve had with my Atlas 3996 purchased new in 1981.? But I should point out that there should be a square key in the motor shaft and motor pulley.? ? I’ve had no slippage problems but for years had to remember to periodically loosen the set screw, slide the motor pulley back onto the motor shaft and retighten the set screw.? I finally solved the migrating pulley problem with a 5/8” bore split clamp from McMaster.? Since installing it, the pulley has never moved. ? If you want to know what model it is, send me a front view photo and say whether it is a 12x24 or 12x36. ? Robert Downs ? ? I have a 12” Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I’m not sure of the model number or the year.? When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both the motor belt and the countershaft belt. When the lever is engaged, the belts are not super tight, yet I have never had an issue with slippage from the belts. I achieved this by adjusting the belts in this order: First, I tensioned the belts from the spindle shaft to the upper/stationary countershaft. I locked the four bolts tight on that spindle bearing housing and and I leave them that way. I've never had a problem with the belts taking a set. Second, I tension the upper/lower countershaft belt using the nuts on the engage/disengage lever.? Third, I tensioned the motor to lower/moveable countershaft pulley by adjusting the motor position. This was the most finicky belt to adjust. Too tight and you couldn't remove the belt when disengaged, and too loose and you might get slippage. And, it seems there is a difference in tension depending which position the belt is in, high or low speed. There is a sweet spot right in the middle, and once I got it set, I haven't had a problem yet.? The only slippage I have had is between the lower/moveable countershaft and the motor pulley that is on it on the inside The pulley is not keyed to the shaft, but only secured with a grub screw. I'm assuming this to provide a safety factor in case you over torque the machine. My machine started slipping the other day and I discovered that the shaft has a pretty good groove worn into it. Future repair. For now, the grub screw was retightened and I was back in business.? The bigger problem I've had is trying to get oil to the bronze sleeve for the lower/moveable countershaft. It is behind the large pulley, and trying to get the oil cup open and the spout of an oil can in there is a real pain. I'm thinking about piping it out away from the bushing housing, but I just haven't done it yet.?
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
I like cutting 7075 as well, it's actually harder and stronger than 1018.
I've had it anodized before with no issues. It can be welded too, just not structural.
I do mold repair and really try to avoid welding it, kind of sucks and whatever you put on will not be close to the same properties!
6061 is the only real welding candidate in that group.
I'd pick 7075, corrosion isn't an issue for this application unless you store it outside or under water.
Dave
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On April 13, 2020 at 3:57 PM Charles Gallo <Charlie@...> wrote:
Honest?,
Other than wrong diameter, ?I’d use any of the following. 2011, 2024, 6061 or 7075.
The first two might be a bit harder to get, but are free machining alloys. 6061 is available everywhere, but can be a bit “gummy”. I love machining 7075, as it chips like steel, gives a great finish, is strong, but it can not be welded, nor anodized
?
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
The way to make is to turn all the ODs first Have the total? length of the pulley a 1" longer or so on the small end, Machine the ID (hole) to finish, flip it around the small end with extra length in the chuck, machine the v's. when done with the v's use a parting toll to cut it to length. Its very easy and simple? GP
On Monday, April 13, 2020, 8:06:06 PM EDT, Robert Downs via groups.io <wa5cab@...> wrote:
If I were machining this to actually use as a pulley instead of as a pattern and wasn’t concerned about making the cheapest casting possible, I would run the right face (as drawn, it is actually the bottom face) of the hub straight out to about the 2-1/8” diameter point.? And then cut it with the compound at an angle out to the right edge of the material around the largest pulley groove at the 4.0” diameter point shown.? That will change the 3/32” thick dimension shown to somewhere around 1/2” or a little less..? That’s an eyeball guestament – I didn’t actually lay it out and measure it.? And would probably save an hour of pretty tedious and unnecessary machining. ? ?
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 18:15
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment ? ??? ??? thanks alot for posting that Bruce ??? ??? animal One of the first responses to this thread was the suggestion to machine the needed pulley myself.? I am posting this response to that suggestion.? May end up building this.? Going to try and find an existing one first, but if that does not produce, may try it.? It would be more complicated than anything I have done on the lathe to this point............
So, I heard back from Tom McNett at Clausing (Thanks Andrei).? He said that the 60-29 pulley is no longer available.? He did however send me the manufactures design diagram for the pulley, in case I decided to machine it myself.? Thought I would post that diagram here for others if interested.
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
If I were machining this to actually use as a pulley instead of as a pattern and wasn’t concerned about making the cheapest casting possible, I would run the right face (as drawn, it is actually the bottom face) of the hub straight out to about the 2-1/8” diameter point.? And then cut it with the compound at an angle out to the right edge of the material around the largest pulley groove at the 4.0” diameter point shown.? That will change the 3/32” thick dimension shown to somewhere around 1/2” or a little less..? That’s an eyeball guestament – I didn’t actually lay it out and measure it.? And would probably save an hour of pretty tedious and unnecessary machining. ? ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 18:15
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment? ??? ??? thanks alot for posting that Bruce ??? ??? animal One of the first responses to this thread was the suggestion to machine the needed pulley myself.? I am posting this response to that suggestion.? May end up building this.? Going to try and find an existing one first, but if that does not produce, may try it.? It would be more complicated than anything I have done on the lathe to this point............
So, I heard back from Tom McNett at Clausing (Thanks Andrei).? He said that the 60-29 pulley is no longer available.? He did however send me the manufactures design diagram for the pulley, in case I decided to machine it myself.? Thought I would post that diagram here for others if interested.
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
I would machine the pulley in a hart beat Not out aluminum for sure . Cast iron would be my choice
GP
On Monday, April 13, 2020, 7:14:52 PM EDT, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? thanks alot for posting that Bruce
??? ??? animal
One of the first responses to this thread was the suggestion to
machine the needed pulley myself.? I am posting this response to
that suggestion.? May end up building this.? Going to try and find
an existing one first, but if that does not produce, may try it.?
It would be more complicated than anything I have done on the
lathe to this point............
So, I heard back from Tom McNett at Clausing (Thanks Andrei).? He
said that the 60-29 pulley is no longer available.? He did however
send me the manufactures design diagram for the pulley, in case I
decided to machine it myself.? Thought I would post that diagram
here for others if interested.
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
??? ??? thanks alot for posting that Bruce
??? ??? animal
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Show quoted text
One of the first responses to this thread was the suggestion to
machine the needed pulley myself.? I am posting this response to
that suggestion.? May end up building this.? Going to try and find
an existing one first, but if that does not produce, may try it.?
It would be more complicated than anything I have done on the
lathe to this point............
So, I heard back from Tom McNett at Clausing (Thanks Andrei).? He
said that the 60-29 pulley is no longer available.? He did however
send me the manufactures design diagram for the pulley, in case I
decided to machine it myself.? Thought I would post that diagram
here for others if interested.
--
Bruce Varner
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Thanks for the picture. I took a look at mine and can see the remnants of the dimple. I didn’t notice that the first time around, as it was packed pretty solid with material from where the screw carved out the gouge. I recreated the simple on the other side of the shaft as best I could, given the gouge in the shaft. While it was off, I took measurements to make a new shaft when I get the time. ?
Thanks,
On Sun, Apr 12, 2020 at 4:10 PM Dave Matticks < dpm100@...> wrote: Hi Brad,? Just popped mine off for a photo.? It's a 3991, 12x36.? The countershaft has a spotface to accept the set screw that comes in at an angle.? The outboard end is keyed, that's where you would take up end play. Just a set screw driving something just isn't right! Maybe someone replaced the shaft and forgot an important detail.?
Dave Matticks?
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message -------- Date: 4/12/20 10:03 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
There is a key in the motor shaft and pulley, just not on the lower/moveable countershaft. And it’s the 36” model, I just don’t know the numeric model number.?
Thanks,
Brad Brad, et al, ? That is essentially the same experience that I’ve had with my Atlas 3996 purchased new in 1981.? But I should point out that there should be a square key in the motor shaft and motor pulley.? ? I’ve had no slippage problems but for years had to remember to periodically loosen the set screw, slide the motor pulley back onto the motor shaft and retighten the set screw.? I finally solved the migrating pulley problem with a 5/8” bore split clamp from McMaster.? Since installing it, the pulley has never moved. ? If you want to know what model it is, send me a front view photo and say whether it is a 12x24 or 12x36. ? Robert Downs ? ? I have a 12” Craftsman Commercial, the one on the cabinet style base. I’m not sure of the model number or the year.? When I disengage my belts with the lever, there is enough slack to adjust both the motor belt and the countershaft belt. When the lever is engaged, the belts are not super tight, yet I have never had an issue with slippage from the belts. I achieved this by adjusting the belts in this order: First, I tensioned the belts from the spindle shaft to the upper/stationary countershaft. I locked the four bolts tight on that spindle bearing housing and and I leave them that way. I've never had a problem with the belts taking a set. Second, I tension the upper/lower countershaft belt using the nuts on the engage/disengage lever.? Third, I tensioned the motor to lower/moveable countershaft pulley by adjusting the motor position. This was the most finicky belt to adjust. Too tight and you couldn't remove the belt when disengaged, and too loose and you might get slippage. And, it seems there is a difference in tension depending which position the belt is in, high or low speed. There is a sweet spot right in the middle, and once I got it set, I haven't had a problem yet.? The only slippage I have had is between the lower/moveable countershaft and the motor pulley that is on it on the inside The pulley is not keyed to the shaft, but only secured with a grub screw. I'm assuming this to provide a safety factor in case you over torque the machine. My machine started slipping the other day and I discovered that the shaft has a pretty good groove worn into it. Future repair. For now, the grub screw was retightened and I was back in business.? The bigger problem I've had is trying to get oil to the bronze sleeve for the lower/moveable countershaft. It is behind the large pulley, and trying to get the oil cup open and the spout of an oil can in there is a real pain. I'm thinking about piping it out away from the bushing housing, but I just haven't done it yet.?
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment
Well 3 out of 4 is pretty easy to find 2011 the largest they have is only 2 1/2 2024? 6061 7075 Kay ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Charles Gallo
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 4:57 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-Reducing Attachment? Honest?, Other than wrong diameter, ?I’d use any of the following. 2011, 2024, 6061 or 7075. The first two might be a bit harder to get, but are free machining alloys. 6061 is available everywhere, but can be a bit “gummy”. I love machining 7075, as it chips like steel, gives a great finish, is strong, but it can not be welded, nor anodized
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Re: Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-ReducingAttachment
Frankly, I would use 6061-T651 if I could manage a cutoff from a bar. Al tooling plate would machine well and anodizes black to the appearance of a surface plate! While 7075 is as described it is prone to corrosion due to the Zinc content as I learned the hard way. Again a leftover piece from a cutting operation might work for you. ??????????????????????????????? Bill in Boulder CO USA ? Sent from for Windows 10 ?
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From: Charles GalloSent: Monday, April 13, 2020 2:57 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Need Pulley for Craftsman Speed-ReducingAttachment ? Honest?, Other than wrong diameter, ?I’d use any of the following. 2011, 2024, 6061 or 7075. The first two might be a bit harder to get, but are free machining alloys. 6061 is available everywhere, but can be a bit “gummy”. I love machining 7075, as it chips like steel, gives a great finish, is strong, but it can not be welded, nor anodized
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Re: Belt Tensioning (was [atlas-craftsman IO] Finish Cut - Finished
Raymond, I'm not seeing the the drawings. Got a placeholder where they should be, but nothing loads.?
Bill in OKC
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Bill in OKC too