The handle that you have on the compound is the one that belongs on the cross slide. ?The compound should have a similar handle except that it would be smaller and with two handles instead of the one. ?No idea where that extra handwheel came from.
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On Feb 1, 2025, at 7:57 AM, hedgesben via groups.io <hedgesben@...> wrote:
? There is something funny going on with my atlas.? when the top slide is inline with the cross slide the handles interfere with each other.? All the round handles are 4" in diameter so i havent put the wrong handle on as i have been rebuilding it.?
?
All that is different is i put a different micrometer collar on that hasnt altered the length of anything.? even if it did it would still collide at a different spot.
?
pics for reference
<IMG_20250201_122717920_HDR.jpg> <IMG_20250201_122723048_HDR.jpg>
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There is something funny going on with my atlas.? when the top slide is inline with the cross slide the handles interfere with each other.? All the round handles are 4" in diameter so i havent put the wrong handle on as i have been rebuilding it.?
?
All that is different is i put a different micrometer collar on that hasnt altered the length of anything.? even if it did it would still collide at a different spot.
?
pics for reference
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Put the feed gear's tumbler reverse in the neutral position. That will disconnect the gearing from the spindle.
?
?If your lathe has the lead screw reverser, loosen the banjo clamp bolt and drop the gear train out of mesh with the 32 tooth spindle gear. ?
?
If this is done, and the other items mentioned above, there should be nothing holding the spindle from rotating. ?
?
How was the lathe prepared for shipping? ?Crated, bolted to a pallet, or something else? ?
?
I would say movers are notorious for handling machinery. ?They are not millwrights. ?
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Brilliant!
I had not even thought of the carriage lock with split nut engaged. But my other TS steps would have freed the spindle - Disengage gear train or set gear train in neutral would have freed the spindle.
?
Glade I could help!
?
Raymond
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Time for a simply logical approach?
The bearings don't magically....spontaneously....lock up.
Something is mechanically preventing movement.
( yes...before someone says it....I know rusted bearings are technically "something mechanical preventing movement".)
And....lastly...."brute force" is rarely the answer.
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Great logic from Mondosmetals. I didn't engage the lead screw gear chain when I prepped it for moving. However, one of the moving guys may have shifted one of the levers. The carriage lock is engaged because I didn't want it to be sliding around in shipping.
If the carriage is locked and the drive train for the power feed is also engaged, you have a locked spindle. Brilliant! I'll check it out the next time I'm at the house in Southern Maryland. If not, then relaxing the bearing preload and trying Jim's suggestion
of applying a fair amount of torque through the chuck on to the spindle also seems reasonable.
Thanks, guys.
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If Raymonds comments don’t work, chuck a large hex bolt in the chuck and use a breaker bar to force the chuck to move. ?It’s time to get this done. The timken bearings will be fine.?
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On Jan 26, 2025, at 3:58?AM, mondosmetals via groups.io <jwrey@...> wrote:
? Let me review this: The lathe is in a controlled dry environment, heated in winter cooled in summer.
Oil has been applied periodically while in storage for approximately 2 years.
I do not believe there would be any corrosion involved.
I also doubt any oil has dried to the point of creating a "glue" like consistency.
?
Spindle pulley oil port screw is loose.
Back gear is not engaged.
Indexing pin is not engaged
?
Is the gear train to the leadscrew engaged?
If so set Fwd-Neutral-Rev lever to Neutral position. Try turning the spindle
?
Also: Check position of split nut and position of power cross feed knob. If either or both are engaged and gear train is in either Fwd or Rev position trying to turn the spindle will present resistance, and if both are engaged it may not turn at all.
?
Still stuck? Remove the 32 tooth gear from the left end of the leadscrew and try again.
?
Raymond
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Let me review this: The lathe is in a controlled dry environment, heated in winter cooled in summer.
Oil has been applied periodically while in storage for approximately 2 years.
I do not believe there would be any corrosion involved.
I also doubt any oil has dried to the point of creating a "glue" like consistency.
?
Spindle pulley oil port screw is loose.
Back gear is not engaged.
Indexing pin is not engaged
?
Is the gear train to the leadscrew engaged?
If so set Fwd-Neutral-Rev lever to Neutral position. Try turning the spindle
?
Also: Check position of split nut and position of power cross feed knob. If either or both are engaged and gear train is in either Fwd or Rev position trying to turn the spindle will present resistance, and if both are engaged it may not turn at all.
?
Still stuck? Remove the 32 tooth gear from the left end of the leadscrew and try again.
?
Raymond
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Back off the spindle bearing lock collar 2-3 turns, then tap the spindle shaft towards the tailstock. Work it back and forth while adding oil. This should absolutely work.?
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On Jan 25, 2025, at 6:51?PM, rfmarchi1 via groups.io <rfmarchi@...> wrote:
?
It's a Timken bearing spindle. The indexing pin on the bull gear is not engaged. The oil port screw is not tightened down. I'm going?to keep trying penetrating oil for a while unless one of you comes up with a better suggestion.
Thanks for the ideas.
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It's a Timken bearing spindle. The indexing pin on the bull gear is not engaged. The oil port screw is not tightened down. I'm going?to keep trying penetrating oil for a while unless one of you comes up with a better suggestion.
Thanks for the ideas.
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When periodically? applying oil, did you tighten down the oil port screw in the third groove of the spindle pulley? That will pinch the pulley to the spindle as would a set screw. Some people have done this forgetting that is only an oil port and the screw should not be tightened down.
?
Raymond
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Just loosen up the headstock bearings.? Either back off the locking collar or the cap screws if it has babbit bearings.? I would avoid using brake fluid and water.?
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On Jan 24, 2025, at 3:07?PM, Steve Bergeron via groups.io <steve.m.bergeron@...> wrote:
? Is the pin for dividing the spindle into 60 spaces engaged? ? Just an easy thought of a thing that may cause the spindle to appear locked
Steve
On Jan 24, 2025, at 2:37?PM, mike allen via groups.io <animal@...> wrote:
?
IS it a bearing or a bushing spindle ? If its a bushing one I'm
not so sure about running any solvents through the bushings ?
animal
On 1/24/25 11:51 AM, rfmarchi1 via
groups.io wrote:
I sold my place in West Virginia a couple of years ago and moved
the shop to a garage in Southern Maryland. Life intervened and
I'm just getting around to setting the shop back up. When I
moved the 10' Atlas lathe I took off the motor and pulley
assembly as a unit, stripped it of all tooling, chucks,
tailstock, etc, and took it?off the bench it was bolted to. It
arrived intact and the spindle was turning freely. I
occasionally put a few drops of spindle oil in the headstock
oilers and the other oil points. The garage is insulated,
heated,?and cooled. A few months ago, I noticed that the spindle
was not turning freely. The back gear pin is not engaged and the
back gears turn freely. I was down there a couple of weekends
ago and put some Kroil in the oilers, hoping that it would do
its magic. No luck, so far. Obviously, I can disassemble the
spindle and dig into the problem or I could try some heat and
brute force. But I wondered if anybody on the group has a
suggestion that I might try before I get into teardown mode????
Thanks,
Richard Marchi
|
Is the pin for dividing the spindle into 60 spaces engaged? ? Just an easy thought of a thing that may cause the spindle to appear locked
Steve
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On Jan 24, 2025, at 2:37?PM, mike allen via groups.io <animal@...> wrote:
?
IS it a bearing or a bushing spindle ? If its a bushing one I'm
not so sure about running any solvents through the bushings ?
animal
On 1/24/25 11:51 AM, rfmarchi1 via
groups.io wrote:
I sold my place in West Virginia a couple of years ago and moved
the shop to a garage in Southern Maryland. Life intervened and
I'm just getting around to setting the shop back up. When I
moved the 10' Atlas lathe I took off the motor and pulley
assembly as a unit, stripped it of all tooling, chucks,
tailstock, etc, and took it?off the bench it was bolted to. It
arrived intact and the spindle was turning freely. I
occasionally put a few drops of spindle oil in the headstock
oilers and the other oil points. The garage is insulated,
heated,?and cooled. A few months ago, I noticed that the spindle
was not turning freely. The back gear pin is not engaged and the
back gears turn freely. I was down there a couple of weekends
ago and put some Kroil in the oilers, hoping that it would do
its magic. No luck, so far. Obviously, I can disassemble the
spindle and dig into the problem or I could try some heat and
brute force. But I wondered if anybody on the group has a
suggestion that I might try before I get into teardown mode????
Thanks,
Richard Marchi
|
IS it a bearing or a bushing spindle ? If its a bushing one I'm
not so sure about running any solvents through the bushings ?
animal
On 1/24/25 11:51 AM, rfmarchi1 via
groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
I sold my place in West Virginia a couple of years ago and moved
the shop to a garage in Southern Maryland. Life intervened and
I'm just getting around to setting the shop back up. When I
moved the 10' Atlas lathe I took off the motor and pulley
assembly as a unit, stripped it of all tooling, chucks,
tailstock, etc, and took it?off the bench it was bolted to. It
arrived intact and the spindle was turning freely. I
occasionally put a few drops of spindle oil in the headstock
oilers and the other oil points. The garage is insulated,
heated,?and cooled. A few months ago, I noticed that the spindle
was not turning freely. The back gear pin is not engaged and the
back gears turn freely. I was down there a couple of weekends
ago and put some Kroil in the oilers, hoping that it would do
its magic. No luck, so far. Obviously, I can disassemble the
spindle and dig into the problem or I could try some heat and
brute force. But I wondered if anybody on the group has a
suggestion that I might try before I get into teardown mode????
Thanks,
Richard Marchi
|
Brake cleaner flooded through every oiler you can reach. Hose it, let it drain for a while, then do it again. Repeat as necessary until it moves, then flood and let drain spindle oil several times.?
Should free it up if there isn't a mechanical blockage.
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Friday, January 24, 2025 at 01:51:55 PM CST, rfmarchi1 via groups.io <rfmarchi@...> wrote:
I sold my place in West Virginia a couple of years ago and moved the shop to a garage in Southern Maryland. Life intervened and I'm just getting around to setting the shop back up. When I moved the 10' Atlas lathe I took off the motor and pulley assembly as
a unit, stripped it of all tooling, chucks, tailstock, etc, and took it?off the bench it was bolted to. It arrived intact and the spindle was turning freely. I occasionally put a few drops of spindle oil in the headstock oilers and the other oil points. The
garage is insulated, heated,?and cooled. A few months ago, I noticed that the spindle was not turning freely. The back gear pin is not engaged and the back gears turn freely. I was down there a couple of weekends ago and put some Kroil in the oilers, hoping
that it would do its magic. No luck, so far. Obviously, I can disassemble the spindle and dig into the problem or I could try some heat and brute force. But I wondered if anybody on the group has a suggestion that I might try before I get into teardown mode????
Thanks,
Richard Marchi
|
I sold my place in West Virginia a couple of years ago and moved the shop to a garage in Southern Maryland. Life intervened and I'm just getting around to setting the shop back up. When I moved the 10' Atlas lathe I took off the motor and pulley assembly as
a unit, stripped it of all tooling, chucks, tailstock, etc, and took it?off the bench it was bolted to. It arrived intact and the spindle was turning freely. I occasionally put a few drops of spindle oil in the headstock oilers and the other oil points. The
garage is insulated, heated,?and cooled. A few months ago, I noticed that the spindle was not turning freely. The back gear pin is not engaged and the back gears turn freely. I was down there a couple of weekends ago and put some Kroil in the oilers, hoping
that it would do its magic. No luck, so far. Obviously, I can disassemble the spindle and dig into the problem or I could try some heat and brute force. But I wondered if anybody on the group has a suggestion that I might try before I get into teardown mode????
Thanks,
Richard Marchi
|
https://www.lathes.co.uk/pultra/
|
I think theres a guy here that has a Pultra Lathe , Payson I believe .
If yer here please send me a PM
animal@...
|
Re: T-Slot Cross Slide Castings source?
Mounting an Audi cam position sensor in earlier heads. A bit of a trick as there was an oil passage just a little?deeper!
Hey Bill , I'm interested , drawings or pic's . What was the
purpose of the slots in the cylinder head ?
thanks
animal
On 1/19/25 11:37 AM, Bill Williams via
wrote:
Years ago I became dissatisfied with the compound
hold down?arrangement?on my Commercial 12X36 and acquired a pair
of cast iron pieces big enough to make a new crossfeed table. It
was "T" slotted all the way across and the base of the compound
was heavily modified to use four screws as a hold down system.I
believe it doubled the stiffness of the lathe from tool to
spindle. I mde "Yellow Pad" drawings (Still somewhere!) of all
of the changes and these plus the second piece of cast iron were
used by a friend to produce one that used a 10" Atlas compound
that fitted a section of dovetail on one end of the new
compound. I have?used and loved this?arrangement?for years. And
I have?milled slots in the end of a 3 foot long cylinder head, a
job too long for the Bridgeport mills! If there is any interest
I will root round for my drawings and see if I can get them out
to any interested parties!? Bill
On Sun, Jan 19, 2025 at
12:18?PM John W. via <firearms_engraving= [email protected]>
wrote:
I have a milling attachment built for an Atlas Clausing
12X36 gathering dust that I do not need, my mills do that
kind of work better. It came with the lathe and I’ve never
used it. Is this something you’d be interested in? If so,
contact me offline or via DM.
?
John W
|
Re: T-Slot Cross Slide Castings source?
Hey Bill , I'm interested , drawings or pic's . What was the
purpose of the slots in the cylinder head ?
thanks
animal
On 1/19/25 11:37 AM, Bill Williams via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Years ago I became dissatisfied with the compound
hold down?arrangement?on my Commercial 12X36 and acquired a pair
of cast iron pieces big enough to make a new crossfeed table. It
was "T" slotted all the way across and the base of the compound
was heavily modified to use four screws as a hold down system.I
believe it doubled the stiffness of the lathe from tool to
spindle. I mde "Yellow Pad" drawings (Still somewhere!) of all
of the changes and these plus the second piece of cast iron were
used by a friend to produce one that used a 10" Atlas compound
that fitted a section of dovetail on one end of the new
compound. I have?used and loved this?arrangement?for years. And
I have?milled slots in the end of a 3 foot long cylinder head, a
job too long for the Bridgeport mills! If there is any interest
I will root round for my drawings and see if I can get them out
to any interested parties!? Bill
On Sun, Jan 19, 2025 at
12:18?PM John W. via <firearms_engraving= [email protected]>
wrote:
I have a milling attachment built for an Atlas Clausing
12X36 gathering dust that I do not need, my mills do that
kind of work better. It came with the lathe and I’ve never
used it. Is this something you’d be interested in? If so,
contact me offline or via DM.
?
John W
|
Jim F
Bill in OKC too