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Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

开云体育

Am I wrong in saying the larger closed item is a steady rest while the open one is a follower rest. The follower rest moves in combination with and stays close to the cutting tool as it moves along the workpiece. I think this is correct?
-Dave


On Jan 20, 2019, at 4:31 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab@...> wrote:

I agree.? Besides being probably a little stiffer, the “B” version does not require disturbing your top jaw setting in order to remove or install the part that is being supported.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 12:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

I'd stick with the "B"

Dave?

?

?

?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

?

-------- Original message --------

From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>

Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)

Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

Ok Robert
I dont pay to much attention to model number
GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 6:13:53 PM EST, Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab@...> wrote:


GP,

?

No, I was agreeing with you.? Go back and read the part numbers.? The OP showed the later “B” version in his first photograph and the earlier or original version second.? The later version has a “B” suffix to the part number of the base or bottom casting. ?Which Larry naturally took to be the model number.? So when I said the “B” version was the better of the two, I meant the “B” suffix version, not the second photograph.? Or in other words, I agreed with you.

?

Actually (and I should have remembered this in the first place, as many times as I have explained it to someone), the model number of the later 10” steady rest is 10-325-A.? 10-326B is the casting part number and the finish machined part number of the lower part of the steady rest body (the part that the number is cast into).? The only thing AFAIK that Atlas ever put an actual model number on was a nameplate.

?

Anyway, keep the one in the left hand photo.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 15:42
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Unit A you flip the top back, it will not change the top setting

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:32:03 PM EST, Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab@...> wrote:

?

?

I agree.? Besides being probably a little stiffer, the “B” version does not require disturbing your top jaw setting in order to remove or install the part that is being supported.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 12:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

I'd stick with the "B"

Dave?

?

?

?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

?

-------- Original message --------

From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>

Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)

Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

开云体育

GP,

?

No, I was agreeing with you.? Go back and read the part numbers.? The OP showed the later “B” version in his first photograph and the earlier or original version second.? The later version has a “B” suffix to the part number of the base or bottom casting. ?Which Larry naturally took to be the model number.? So when I said the “B” version was the better of the two, I meant the “B” suffix version, not the second photograph.? Or in other words, I agreed with you.

?

Actually (and I should have remembered this in the first place, as many times as I have explained it to someone), the model number of the later 10” steady rest is 10-325-A.? 10-326B is the casting part number and the finish machined part number of the lower part of the steady rest body (the part that the number is cast into).? The only thing AFAIK that Atlas ever put an actual model number on was a nameplate.

?

Anyway, keep the one in the left hand photo.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 15:42
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Unit A you flip the top back, it will not change the top setting

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:32:03 PM EST, Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab@...> wrote:

?

?

I agree.? Besides being probably a little stiffer, the “B” version does not require disturbing your top jaw setting in order to remove or install the part that is being supported.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 12:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

I'd stick with the "B"

Dave?

?

?

?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

?

-------- Original message --------

From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>

Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)

Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

Unit A you flip the top back, it will not change the top setting

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:32:03 PM EST, Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab@...> wrote:


I agree.? Besides being probably a little stiffer, the “B” version does not require disturbing your top jaw setting in order to remove or install the part that is being supported.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 12:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

I'd stick with the "B"

Dave?

?

?

?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

?

-------- Original message --------

From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>

Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)

Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

开云体育

I agree.? Besides being probably a little stiffer, the “B” version does not require disturbing your top jaw setting in order to remove or install the part that is being supported.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 12:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

I'd stick with the "B"

Dave?

?

?

?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

?

-------- Original message --------

From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>

Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)

Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

 

开云体育

Not the sacrificial shaft either.?
Need to get rid of the boogers before doing anything besides grinding.?
A very small diameter change has a very large impact on gage line with any self holding taper so be careful whatever you do.
Dave?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

开云体育

-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...>
Date: 1/20/19 14:41 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

I didn't say anything about "cover" compound. Only Clover as a brand name of lapping compound, available in many flavors.
?Sorry!
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: Ken Harrington <dreamcrafters@...>
Date: 1/20/19 14:31 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

Dave M said:
Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT shaft with Cover compound would then help.

Ken H said"
"curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound" "my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts"

Dave M said:
"Clover is a brand name for lapping compound".



OK, I referenced that in my post, so what is the "COVER COMPOUND" that you were referring to and how is it used? Not trying to be a pest, just want to know how others work and solve problems. That is the main reason I come here. I had never heard of "cover compound" and was unable to find any information or other references on "cover compound". So it still remains a mystery to me and possibly others.


Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

 

Ken?
This compound that was mentioned is used for laping engine valves i have some out on the shop it has 2 diverant grits in the can. The idea is not good the compound will not remove big nicks. I would just use a tool post grinder and be done with it

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 3:33:32 PM EST, Ken Harrington <dreamcrafters@...> wrote:


[Edited Message Follows]

Dave M said:
Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT shaft with Cover compound would then help.

Ken H said"
"curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound" "my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts"

Dave M said:
"Clover is a brand name for lapping compound".



OK, I referenced that in my post, so what is the "COVER COMPOUND" that you were referring to and how is it used? Not trying to be a pest, just want to know how others work and solve problems. That is the main reason I come here. I had never heard of "cover compound" and was unable to find any information or other references on "cover compound". So it still remains a mystery to me and possibly others.

Ken H in AZ


Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

 

开云体育

I didn't say anything about "cover" compound. Only Clover as a brand name of lapping compound, available in many flavors.
?Sorry!
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: Ken Harrington <dreamcrafters@...>
Date: 1/20/19 14:31 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

Dave M said:
Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT shaft with Cover compound would then help.

Ken H said"
"curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound" "my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts"

Dave M said:
"Clover is a brand name for lapping compound".



OK, I referenced that in my post, so what is the "COVER COMPOUND" that you were referring to and how is it used? Not trying to be a pest, just want to know how others work and solve problems. That is the main reason I come here. I had never heard of "cover compound" and was unable to find any information or other references on "cover compound". So it still remains a mystery to me and possibly others.


Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

 
Edited

Dave M said:
Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT shaft with Cover compound would then help.

Ken H said"
"curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound" "my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts"

Dave M said:
"Clover is a brand name for lapping compound".



OK, I referenced that in my post, so what is the "COVER COMPOUND" that you were referring to and how is it used? Not trying to be a pest, just want to know how others work and solve problems. That is the main reason I come here. I had never heard of "cover compound" and was unable to find any information or other references on "cover compound". So it still remains a mystery to me and possibly others.

Ken H in AZ


Little blast from the past

 

This is from maybe 1976, I'm older now with less hair.
Won't fit an Atlas though!
Dave?


Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator

 

Bill, I think I might of had a problem with TouchDRO but Yuri jumped right in and solved the problem.
Their forum also is very helpful.
Of course I am always here or email rhulslander gmail

I bought my iGauging DROs off ebay.

Ralph


On Sun, Jan 20, 2019 at 12:57 PM Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Jody
Yes a indicator in the front of the carriage is not good if a hot chip hits the lens of the indicator it will burn it, the lenses are plastic

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 12:11:25 PM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:


GP,
Let me know, did a little looking this morning too.
Found a 36" for around $77.00 shipped.?
I'd be using this if I could read it somewhere besides at work!
Thanks,?
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
Date: 1/20/19 08:10 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Carriage Stop and Indicator

I have I-Gageing DRO's on a small table top mill they are fine for what they cost. I bought them from Tool-doc in Wisconsin he had the lowest price at the time. I e-mailed him if he still sells them??

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 8:47:52 AM EST, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io <bill70j=[email protected]> wrote:


Dave:

Thanks for the comments.

At the start of travel, the X scale protrudes 6" from the back edge of the way - at the end it protrudes just over 12".

I just checked my receipts and find that the set-up I have on my X is the 6" Igaging scale, not the 12" that I put in my prior message.?
So you are right.? My mistake!

Good luck on getting your DRO installed!

Bill

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:46:23 AM PST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:


Bill,

Nice looking lathe. Bench looks very cool and nice job on the DRO installation as well!


How far does the scale on the cross slide protrude to the rear? I ask because I have the factory lamp that could interfere if the scale stuck out too far, didn't do any serious measuring or thinking about it yet though.

Seems like I could almost get by with a 6" scale, there's just over 6" of travel from the points where the nut falls off the screw. Depends if there's any overtravel or maybe cut off a longer scale.


I have a 12X36 cabinet base model that really needs a readout at least on the carriage! I have a perfect Newall 36" travel scale and transducer taken from a Bridgeport that I'd love to use but haven't found a display for a reasonable price. Also have a "spare" Travadial but the Atlas won't like it.


I did talk to another guy in the group with the I-Gaging setup, he's happy with it. The price is right too.


Thanks for the pics.


Dave

On January 18, 2019 at 6:23 AM "Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io" <bill70j=[email protected]> wrote:

?
qanthony87:

Here are some pics of the DRO installed on my Atlas 10F.

It is an I-Gaging EZ-View 24" scale on the Y and 12" scale on the X.

It is accurate and repeatable, and cost under $100.

HTH,? Bill

On Thursday, January 17, 2019, 3:48:32 PM PST, qanthony87 <aquinn50@...> wrote:


Bill how’s about some pics

?

On Jan 16, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io < bill70j@...> wrote:

?
Jody:

Agree.? I think you are right on point.? No need for an indicator if you have DRO.? But the stop comes in handy at times if you're in a hurry or are just lazy, like me.??

Adding XY DRO's (dumb, but effective and cheap I-Gaging DRO's) to the Atlas was one of the best upgrades I made, second only to the QCTP.

Bill

On Wednesday, January 16, 2019, 11:50:35 AM PST, Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote:


Guenther,
You make a good point about the swarf.? I was using mine on a mighty mag and had it setup up behind the carriage.? It worked ok, with exception of the magnet part of it.? I'm thinking of doing something that can hold the indicator and have a stop between the indicator and the ways.? Doing this I can take my measurements with the dial and then set my stop and then take the dial out of the holder to keep it away from the swarf.
Thanks for mentioning that, I didn't think about that aspect of it yet.?
Maybe I just go all DRO and forget this...Haha!

Thanks for the input, swarf is now going to be taken into account.
-Jody


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:


I'd stick with the "B"
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>
Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator

 

Jody
Yes a indicator in the front of the carriage is not good if a hot chip hits the lens of the indicator it will burn it, the lenses are plastic

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 12:11:25 PM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:


GP,
Let me know, did a little looking this morning too.
Found a 36" for around $77.00 shipped.?
I'd be using this if I could read it somewhere besides at work!
Thanks,?
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
Date: 1/20/19 08:10 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Carriage Stop and Indicator

I have I-Gageing DRO's on a small table top mill they are fine for what they cost. I bought them from Tool-doc in Wisconsin he had the lowest price at the time. I e-mailed him if he still sells them??

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 8:47:52 AM EST, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io <bill70j@...> wrote:


Dave:

Thanks for the comments.

At the start of travel, the X scale protrudes 6" from the back edge of the way - at the end it protrudes just over 12".

I just checked my receipts and find that the set-up I have on my X is the 6" Igaging scale, not the 12" that I put in my prior message.?
So you are right.? My mistake!

Good luck on getting your DRO installed!

Bill

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:46:23 AM PST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:


Bill,

Nice looking lathe. Bench looks very cool and nice job on the DRO installation as well!


How far does the scale on the cross slide protrude to the rear? I ask because I have the factory lamp that could interfere if the scale stuck out too far, didn't do any serious measuring or thinking about it yet though.

Seems like I could almost get by with a 6" scale, there's just over 6" of travel from the points where the nut falls off the screw. Depends if there's any overtravel or maybe cut off a longer scale.


I have a 12X36 cabinet base model that really needs a readout at least on the carriage! I have a perfect Newall 36" travel scale and transducer taken from a Bridgeport that I'd love to use but haven't found a display for a reasonable price. Also have a "spare" Travadial but the Atlas won't like it.


I did talk to another guy in the group with the I-Gaging setup, he's happy with it. The price is right too.


Thanks for the pics.


Dave

On January 18, 2019 at 6:23 AM "Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io" <bill70j@...> wrote:

?
qanthony87:

Here are some pics of the DRO installed on my Atlas 10F.

It is an I-Gaging EZ-View 24" scale on the Y and 12" scale on the X.

It is accurate and repeatable, and cost under $100.

HTH,? Bill

On Thursday, January 17, 2019, 3:48:32 PM PST, qanthony87 <aquinn50@...> wrote:


Bill how’s about some pics

?

On Jan 16, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io < bill70j@...> wrote:

?
Jody:

Agree.? I think you are right on point.? No need for an indicator if you have DRO.? But the stop comes in handy at times if you're in a hurry or are just lazy, like me.??

Adding XY DRO's (dumb, but effective and cheap I-Gaging DRO's) to the Atlas was one of the best upgrades I made, second only to the QCTP.

Bill

On Wednesday, January 16, 2019, 11:50:35 AM PST, Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote:


Guenther,
You make a good point about the swarf.? I was using mine on a mighty mag and had it setup up behind the carriage.? It worked ok, with exception of the magnet part of it.? I'm thinking of doing something that can hold the indicator and have a stop between the indicator and the ways.? Doing this I can take my measurements with the dial and then set my stop and then take the dial out of the holder to keep it away from the swarf.
Thanks for mentioning that, I didn't think about that aspect of it yet.?
Maybe I just go all DRO and forget this...Haha!

Thanks for the input, swarf is now going to be taken into account.
-Jody


Re: Morse Taper Spindle Finish (Another idea)

 

I agree with Jon sandpaper on a shaft or M3 taper will follow the path of least resistance?

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 12:48:05 PM EST, seb fontana via Groups.Io <speedoo51@...> wrote:


The taper can be reamed to clean but remember to support the end sticking out...If you indicate the reamer and it runs out you know the taper does too..


Re: Morse Taper Spindle Finish (Another idea)

seb fontana
 

The taper can be reamed to clean but remember to support the end sticking out...If you indicate the reamer and it runs out you know the taper does too..


Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator

 

开云体育

GP,
Let me know, did a little looking this morning too.
Found a 36" for around $77.00 shipped.?
I'd be using this if I could read it somewhere besides at work!
Thanks,?
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
Date: 1/20/19 08:10 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Carriage Stop and Indicator

I have I-Gageing DRO's on a small table top mill they are fine for what they cost. I bought them from Tool-doc in Wisconsin he had the lowest price at the time. I e-mailed him if he still sells them??

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 8:47:52 AM EST, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io <bill70j@...> wrote:


Dave:

Thanks for the comments.

At the start of travel, the X scale protrudes 6" from the back edge of the way - at the end it protrudes just over 12".

I just checked my receipts and find that the set-up I have on my X is the 6" Igaging scale, not the 12" that I put in my prior message.?
So you are right.? My mistake!

Good luck on getting your DRO installed!

Bill

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:46:23 AM PST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:


Bill,

Nice looking lathe. Bench looks very cool and nice job on the DRO installation as well!


How far does the scale on the cross slide protrude to the rear? I ask because I have the factory lamp that could interfere if the scale stuck out too far, didn't do any serious measuring or thinking about it yet though.

Seems like I could almost get by with a 6" scale, there's just over 6" of travel from the points where the nut falls off the screw. Depends if there's any overtravel or maybe cut off a longer scale.


I have a 12X36 cabinet base model that really needs a readout at least on the carriage! I have a perfect Newall 36" travel scale and transducer taken from a Bridgeport that I'd love to use but haven't found a display for a reasonable price. Also have a "spare" Travadial but the Atlas won't like it.


I did talk to another guy in the group with the I-Gaging setup, he's happy with it. The price is right too.


Thanks for the pics.


Dave

On January 18, 2019 at 6:23 AM "Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io" <bill70j@...> wrote:

?
qanthony87:

Here are some pics of the DRO installed on my Atlas 10F.

It is an I-Gaging EZ-View 24" scale on the Y and 12" scale on the X.

It is accurate and repeatable, and cost under $100.

HTH,? Bill

On Thursday, January 17, 2019, 3:48:32 PM PST, qanthony87 <aquinn50@...> wrote:


Bill how’s about some pics

?

On Jan 16, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io < bill70j@...> wrote:

?
Jody:

Agree.? I think you are right on point.? No need for an indicator if you have DRO.? But the stop comes in handy at times if you're in a hurry or are just lazy, like me.??

Adding XY DRO's (dumb, but effective and cheap I-Gaging DRO's) to the Atlas was one of the best upgrades I made, second only to the QCTP.

Bill

On Wednesday, January 16, 2019, 11:50:35 AM PST, Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote:


Guenther,
You make a good point about the swarf.? I was using mine on a mighty mag and had it setup up behind the carriage.? It worked ok, with exception of the magnet part of it.? I'm thinking of doing something that can hold the indicator and have a stop between the indicator and the ways.? Doing this I can take my measurements with the dial and then set my stop and then take the dial out of the holder to keep it away from the swarf.
Thanks for mentioning that, I didn't think about that aspect of it yet.?
Maybe I just go all DRO and forget this...Haha!

Thanks for the input, swarf is now going to be taken into account.
-Jody


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

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I'd stick with the "B"
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>
Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Morse Taper Spindle Finish (Another idea)

 

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On 01/20/2019 08:09 AM, Paul D wrote:

Hey, Group:

Jumping in on the Topic, though perhaps not the specific issue, with a question:

Why not use a good MT3 shaft, wrap it in various (reducing) grits of sandpaper, and use that to remove any grooves or variations from the female (spindle) side? You could use water, thin oil, or a low-tack adhesive to hold the sandpaper in-place…and it’s a lot cheaper than a reamer…

?


If there are some big, raised bumps on the taper ID, then such a sanding tool might tend to follow the path of least resistance and end up with a perfect, but TILTED taper.? By boring or grinding with the compound slide set to the right angle, it would at least be concentric and not tilted.? Then, finishing with a tapered reamer could correct any error in the taper angle.

The OP indicated that collets already have a LOT of runout or wobble due to raised burrs on the taper, so what I describe above seems like a valid worry.

Jon


Re: Morse Taper Spindle Finish (Another idea)

 

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Hi Paul ,

?

In my experience you run the same risk as with the reamer if the damage / burring is at all uneven in that the shaft with emery paper will “ride” on the burr / high spot ?and cut away on the opposite side resulting in a oval hole . . . .

?

Regards,

?

Carvel

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Paul D
Sent: 20 January 2019 04:09 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Morse Taper Spindle Finish (Another idea)

?

Hey, Group:

Jumping in on the Topic, though perhaps not the specific issue, with a question:

Why not use a good MT3 shaft, wrap it in various (reducing) grits of sandpaper, and use that to remove any grooves or variations from the female (spindle) side? You could use water, thin oil, or a low-tack adhesive to hold the sandpaper in-place…and it’s a lot cheaper than a reamer…

?

Paul DeLisle
Salado, TX

?