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Whenever I have to swing by the dump, I go to the metal dropoff to see what's there. You never know what comes up, but a lot of times I'll see scrap that's good for welding or making something out of.

I’m working on getting the subject lathe up and running. The Timkin tapered roller bearings on the spindle were made in June 1946, so I figure the lathe was produced when Craftsman started selling

Around my area Facebook marketplace has a lot of materials for sale at very affordable prices. Especially mild steel and 6061 aluminum neither best for machining but certainly usable. -- Clayton

Same here. I have been using link-belts for about a decade. In my experience, I think they run a little smoother and a little quieter than the old v-belts. Pick any brand you want. They are cheap

I also use link belts for all my pulleys on my Atlas lathe. I would never want to dismantle the lathe to change/replace belts. Whether you want to use a HF belts or find a different manufacturer,

I have been using Nu-T-Link belting on my Craftsman 101.07403 12 X 24 standard change gear bench lathe for many years now; at least 20. I've found that this belting is directional when it comes to

Lee, purely based on .... "I am not experienced" People here are much more experienced than me so take this for what it's worth. As I went down my inexperience path here's what I do

While just practicing making chips without a project in mind may seem like a good idea, in reality it’s not. Yes, you can practice with 12L14, brass, delrin and other free-machining materials, but

The cheap Chinese brass punches from HF. Allen Underdown allen@... Sent from my mobile device.

I agree that buying it from a known supplier is good when you know what you want to make and want to know its properties so it will work best. However if you are not picky I have a few suggestions.

I believe Clickspring has a vid on YouTube on how to modify drill bits for brass , may have something lathe tools too animal

Be careful if you are not familiar with brass. It can tend to dig in because it is so soft. It is normally drilled and turned with zero or negative rake tools, including special brass drills that have

Hi Steve, One of my 10" Atlases that's still stock uses a 4L310 spindle belt, which is 1/2" wide x 31" long. Yours is likely similar in size, and the number, 4L310 or A29, might still be readable on

[email protected]> wrote: Greg, I'm in Portland also. I have an abundant supply of steel rod and hex. If you need something, I'll trade for the name of your aluminum scrap yard ??. Email

Lee, Good question and some good suggestions. I have one more to add, in addition to browsing machine shops and Metal supply houses for ‘drops’. Due to the high prices of machine

I am getting close to needing belts for my 10F with Horizontal Countershaft. I want to go with the link belts. Can someone recommend a good brand and how much length will I need? Steve

Scrap steel right now is hardly worth hauling into the breakers, so it is usually easy to find drops and left over chunks of unknown steel. Learn to spark test it for carbon and then test with a file

And is much more dangerous. Pouring molten metal can be very hazardous.

? See if you have a Metal Supermarket?In your area. They usually have what you want. Our store in Raleigh. Nc has a rack of short left over(drops) at reduced prices.

McMaster Carr has drill rod and 12L14 in round stock at decent prices. You can also see if your local scrap metal recycling company might let you buy from them.